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The Ultimate 3D projection system: A Practical Discussion Thread - Page 53

post #1561 of 2106
4/11/12 at 5:20pm
You need a half wave plate to change the linear polarization angle. Quarter wave plates are to go circular. You still want a polarizer to clean it up a bit more. Well, this is all I have read. Sorry, no specfic advice which you clearly were asking for.
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post #1562 of 2106
4/11/12 at 5:41pm
@3dmaven

I think you're going the wrong way.
RealD 3D is circular polarised : it is extra-sensitive to the quality of your silverscreen. Take any cheap silverscreen and you'll get significant amounts of ghosting. If you want good results, you will have to get the highest quality screen you can find (Stewart or Harkness specialised 3D silverscreens, not the lower quality "compatible" ones), but even they you won't match the ghosting of linear (unless you tilt your head of course, in which case linear looses all it's interest).
I haven't tested both myself, but from the ghosting test pictures I've seen, the difference is definitely noticeable.
Linear polarisation slightly less sensitive to the quality of the silverscreen, I mean the results won't be really good with cheap silverscreens but they'll be usable. You can buy online 45/135° or 0/90° linear glasses in similar style to realD3D glasses for cheap.

Screens : silverscreens are very fragile, they aren't made for outdoors, you"ll destroy your screen if you leave it outside : so you'll have to move your screen in and out every time you want to use it.
Mounting and unmounting a screen is a pain, especially since the screen surface is so fragile and doesn't tolerate folding or wrinkles.
Rolling is the only way to store a silverscreen (rolling with a large radius), but I suspect re-rolling the screen multiple times damages it since screen manufacturers advise not to re-roll the screen after it's been attached (and dried) on the frame.
You'll probably want to carry the screen on it's frame... and run the risk to scratch it against some furniture by accident, which I did many times on mine, small scratches in the corners lucky me, but a bad scratch in the wrong place, and I can kiss my screen goodbye.

There is a very good reason why the Omega filters are so attractive, getting rid of the silverscreen is a real advantage, even if you're a high gain screen fan.
If you're still interested in polarisation (for the light boost), I seriously recommend you leave the screen indoors.

As far as the different types of filters, I am not familiar with the polarisation "twister" type of filter (rotating 45° or 90° one way or the other way). But I know other people have made it to get as much light as possible from these types of projectors with all 3 components polarised identically.
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post #1563 of 2106
4/12/12 at 1:23am
While we're talking about differences in light engine tech, what about hybrid LED/Laser DLP projectors in terms of color difference with the Omega filters? Has any of this tech been tested yet? I would guess that it would perform similar to the original filters with DLP, but that's a barely educated guess. It is a dramatically different light source... is this something that can be investigated?

I realize the target audience is mid to high end HT units and none are available, but Viewsonic has a 1080p hybrid announced for this year and I'm sure more competition will pop up before the year is up. Casio has been selling these for some time. All of them use LED for red, blue laser + phosphor for green. The slim Casio models use the same laser for blue, while Optoma, Viewsonic and some of the newer Casio units use blue LED instead. There are also the BenQ BlueCore units, which I believe only use lasers.

It's likely by the end of the year there will be a few good HT projectors using this tech. Does it qualify for a practical definition of "ultimate"? No need to change expensive lamps, no worry in a dual stack about the differences of hours on the lamps, much lower power consumption and none of the other disadvantages of LCD. With 3 separate light sources perhaps we can escape from RBE and color wheel failures as well? (fingers crossed)
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post #1564 of 2106
4/12/12 at 8:00am
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackShark View Post

@3dmaven

I think you're going the wrong way.
RealD 3D is circular polarised : it is extra-sensitive to the quality of your silverscreen. Take any cheap silverscreen and you'll get significant amounts of ghosting. If you want good results, you will have to get the highest quality screen you can find (Stewart or Harkness specialised 3D silverscreens, not the lower quality "compatible" ones), but even they you won't match the ghosting of linear (unless you tilt your head of course, in which case linear looses all it's interest).
I haven't tested both myself, but from the ghosting test pictures I've seen, the difference is definitely noticeable.
Linear polarisation slightly less sensitive to the quality of the silverscreen, I mean the results won't be really good with cheap silverscreens but they'll be usable. You can buy online 45/135° or 0/90° linear glasses in similar style to realD3D glasses for cheap.

Screens : silverscreens are very fragile, they aren't made for outdoors, you"ll destroy your screen if you leave it outside : so you'll have to move your screen in and out every time you want to use it.
Mounting and unmounting a screen is a pain, especially since the screen surface is so fragile and doesn't tolerate folding or wrinkles.
Rolling is the only way to store a silverscreen (rolling with a large radius), but I suspect re-rolling the screen multiple times damages it since screen manufacturers advise not to re-roll the screen after it's been attached (and dried) on the frame.
You'll probably want to carry the screen on it's frame... and run the risk to scratch it against some furniture by accident, which I did many times on mine, small scratches in the corners lucky me, but a bad scratch in the wrong place, and I can kiss my screen goodbye.

There is a very good reason why the Omega filters are so attractive, getting rid of the silverscreen is a real advantage, even if you're a high gain screen fan.
If you're still interested in polarisation (for the light boost), I seriously recommend you leave the screen indoors.

As far as the different types of filters, I am not familiar with the polarisation "twister" type of filter (rotating 45° or 90° one way or the other way). But I know other people have made it to get as much light as possible from these types of projectors with all 3 components polarised identically.

Thanks for the great first hand experience, it really helps a lot to get some wisdom from those who've travelled this path before. I think if I go with an Omega system I will have to mount the color filters between the projector and the lens (these Sim 6's have huge removable lenses and I'm not sure even the large color filter from Omega would work there). How much heat can these things take? there isn't a heck of a lot of heat at the lens end of these things (the lens is about a foot and a half from the lamp), but there is a lot of lumens of light passing through it (~3000). It would be cool to have these internally mounted.
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post #1565 of 2106
4/12/12 at 12:04pm
I just pulled the lens off my projector and it looks like there is plenty of room for internal mounting. The little glass plate in there is about 55x45 mm so perhaps the regular size omega filter will fit, if I mount it in the right place with resect to lens shift; I will have to run the projector with the lens off to get the precise placement. I've attached a photo to see what others think, perhaps motorman45 will give his 2 cents.
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post #1566 of 2106
4/12/12 at 1:07pm
i know internal mounting will have the best color uniformity as that is how we have done it on all cinema systems. the filters will take any amount of heat the projector can throw so its just a matter of how you mount it in there.

on the issues of color and projector type i started to throw together some of the data i have. its not complete but it shows some of the things i have worked on and i hope will be interesting.

https://sites.google.com/site/passiv...tioninprolog20

sorry for the poor page layout. im just figuring out this web editor. i may move the info to a better site. anyway just a start.

on the polorizing and RealD i think that for a large show its fine, the glasses are cheap. but the RealD z is linear, are those still around ? i thought all newer RealD systems were circualr including the XL system. how do you get around media rights to show to a larger crown ? or is that not an issue with some content. ive thought of doing exactly that but not sure what to show ? for 3D that is. we could sell someone more glasses than 10. already have lol
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post #1567 of 2106
4/12/12 at 5:47pm
My filters just arrived. I haven't got everything set up yet, but I did notice that with one of the filters that colour uniformity was pretty good. With the other colour uniformity was very poor across the screen. I'll have a feel for this probably tomorrow when I run some 3D material through this system.
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post #1568 of 2106
4/12/12 at 6:21pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackShark View Post

@3dmaven

I think you're going the wrong way.
RealD 3D is circular polarised : it is extra-sensitive to the quality of your silverscreen. Take any cheap silverscreen and you'll get significant amounts of ghosting. If you want good results, you will have to get the highest quality screen you can find (Stewart or Harkness specialised 3D silverscreens, not the lower quality "compatible" ones), but even they you won't match the ghosting of linear (unless you tilt your head of course, in which case linear looses all it's interest).
I haven't tested both myself, but from the ghosting test pictures I've seen, the difference is definitely noticeable.
Linear polarisation slightly less sensitive to the quality of the silverscreen, I mean the results won't be really good with cheap silverscreens but they'll be usable. You can buy online 45/135° or 0/90° linear glasses in similar style to realD3D glasses for cheap.

Screens : silverscreens are very fragile, they aren't made for outdoors, you"ll destroy your screen if you leave it outside : so you'll have to move your screen in and out every time you want to use it.
Mounting and unmounting a screen is a pain, especially since the screen surface is so fragile and doesn't tolerate folding or wrinkles.
Rolling is the only way to store a silverscreen (rolling with a large radius), but I suspect re-rolling the screen multiple times damages it since screen manufacturers advise not to re-roll the screen after it's been attached (and dried) on the frame.
You'll probably want to carry the screen on it's frame... and run the risk to scratch it against some furniture by accident, which I did many times on mine, small scratches in the corners lucky me, but a bad scratch in the wrong place, and I can kiss my screen goodbye.

There is a very good reason why the Omega filters are so attractive, getting rid of the silverscreen is a real advantage, even if you're a high gain screen fan.
If you're still interested in polarisation (for the light boost), I seriously recommend you leave the screen indoors.

As far as the different types of filters, I am not familiar with the polarisation "twister" type of filter (rotating 45° or 90° one way or the other way). But I know other people have made it to get as much light as possible from these types of projectors with all 3 components polarised identically.

Despite that im so closely tied to the omega 3D and its advantages over polorization i get the desire for inexpensive glasses. I have all the parts to make polorization optics. linear polorizers and several types of quarter wave/ half wave plates. ive actually been playing around with them to see how to make circular work and its pretty simple really but i cant seem to create Great extiction, no silver screen here just playing with light and plates. one just has to put the "fast" axis of a quarter wave plate at an angle to the liniear polorizer with the lineiar part toward the light source. the opposite eye just has the opposite angle set up. and in the glasses it works the same way with the two types of plastic put together. the exact type of polorizers plays a role in the extiction and the color change you get with head movement. the parts are actually cheap and high end plorizers are usually the plastic just laminated in between glass.
but if you take away the silver screen and need a good number of glasses i bet the omega 3D would be possibly cheaper. if you are using cinema type units that are xenon sourced i know the performance would be great. look at the gamut on the link i posted, near the bottom. that is a Christie cinema DLP. very good color along with the extiction. sorry had to add that lol
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post #1569 of 2106
4/12/12 at 6:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by digitalsleep View Post

While we're talking about differences in light engine tech, what about hybrid LED/Laser DLP projectors in terms of color difference with the Omega filters? Has any of this tech been tested yet? I would guess that it would perform similar to the original filters with DLP, but that's a barely educated guess. It is a dramatically different light source... is this something that can be investigated?

I realize the target audience is mid to high end HT units and none are available, but Viewsonic has a 1080p hybrid announced for this year and I'm sure more competition will pop up before the year is up. Casio has been selling these for some time. All of them use LED for red, blue laser + phosphor for green. The slim Casio models use the same laser for blue, while Optoma, Viewsonic and some of the newer Casio units use blue LED instead. There are also the BenQ BlueCore units, which I believe only use lasers.

It's likely by the end of the year there will be a few good HT projectors using this tech. Does it qualify for a practical definition of "ultimate"? No need to change expensive lamps, no worry in a dual stack about the differences of hours on the lamps, much lower power consumption and none of the other disadvantages of LCD. With 3 separate light sources perhaps we can escape from RBE and color wheel failures as well? (fingers crossed)

I have been looking a lot at these new sources for projectors, not a lot of detail on the exact spectrums but i spent years designing optics and systems around lasers and from what ive seen the omega filter system will work fine so far. line sources like a true gas or crystal laser have issues and what ive seen like you said is a phosphor to get a broad spectral output at other bands. the LED's are fine as they are somewhat broad bands of light.
any singel line sources have speckle and although ive seen clever ways of reducing that there is still metameric issues that are only solved with a wider band of light for a given color. white LED's that use phosphor internally are very good for replacing UHP and xenon but none of these sources are really any better in the lumens per watt area.
i think the RBE effect has gotten a lot better or less of an issue i should say and DLP is so much more efficient with light than LCD but i agree that the idea of three colored sources on a 3 chip system sound ideal. DLP or LCD.
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post #1570 of 2106
4/12/12 at 6:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by motorman45 View Post

Despite that im so closely tied to the omega 3D and its advantages over polorization i get the desire for inexpensive glasses. I have all the parts to make polorization optics. linear polorizers and several types of quarter wave/ half wave plates. ive actually been playing around with them to see how to make circular work and its pretty simple really but i cant seem to create Great extiction, no silver screen here just playing with light and plates. one just has to put the "fast" axis of a quarter wave plate at an angle to the liniear polorizer with the lineiar part toward the light source. the opposite eye just has the opposite angle set up. and in the glasses it works the same way with the two types of plastic put together. the exact type of polorizers plays a role in the extiction and the color change you get with head movement. the parts are actually cheap and high end plorizers are usually the plastic just laminated in between glass.
but if you take away the silver screen and need a good number of glasses i bet the omega 3D would be possibly cheaper. if you are using cinema type units that are xenon sourced i know the performance would be great. look at the gamut on the link i posted, near the bottom. that is a Christie cinema DLP. very good color along with the extiction. sorry had to add that lol

Motorman, I take it there is no way for you to make cheap plastic (nonglass) 3d glasses like the real D ones for large audiences? Also, I have to ask if there is any chance you are still exploring/making a system for a single projector such as a polarization modulator or a way to modify a dlp unit? We are all aware of the drawback of a single projector 3d system but I think it wold be a nice way to ease more people into the Omega 3d system but there are lots of positives of a single projector such as price, ease of set up, no need to buy a demuxer, easy to transport, easier for the general population to understand.
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post #1571 of 2106
4/12/12 at 6:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deja Vu View Post

My filters just arrived. I haven't got everything set up yet, but I did notice that with one of the filters that colour uniformity was pretty good. With the other colour uniformity was very poor across the screen. I'll have a feel for this probably tomorrow when I run some 3D material through this system.

i bet the left was good and the right was not as good. ? the LCD version should help this as if the right eye appears blue and gets more blue toward the edge its an effect of the yellow and cyan notches in the projector spectrum. what ive found in correcting the color points for the LCD units if you get the white points of each eye back close to D65 and not blue the hue variation due to the range of angles on a fast system, or short throw system, appears much less pronounced as the variation is all along planks curve or the CCT line of white. delays suck but we will have these next week. its actually pretty complicated to make these lol
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post #1572 of 2106
4/12/12 at 6:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by curtishd View Post

Motorman, I take it there is no way for you to make cheap plastic (nonglass) 3d glasses like the real D ones for large audiences? Also, I have to ask if there is any chance you are still exploring/making a system for a single projector such as a polarization modulator or a way to modify a dlp unit? We are all aware of the drawback of a single projector 3d system but I think it wold be a nice way to ease more people into the Omega 3d system.

no ive got no way of making glasses like that. ive got pretty good sized sheets of polarizer's and a pair of scissors, thats about it.
we did look into making a unit kind of like what your taling about. the LCD units that sits in front of a single projector ? as ours are otical filters the only way to do that is a wheel, and we make that for the cinema systems, but the active area or effective apeture is 20mm dia on a 120mm dia wheel, the hub and all take up a lot. these are placed at the focal point of a 7000watt xenon lamp inside the projector.
they cost a dealer 1800 for just the wheel, no housing or interface electronics. so to make one with enough aperture to fit a small projector and build a housing would be a bit more. kind of costly. not impossible but i think the wheel would have to be 160mm or more in dia and a s[ecial controller to sync with the projector. maybe in volume close to 2500-3k. the cost of the filter coatings increases with the size at a good rate
fixed internal small filters are the most economical.
i would really like to work with a projector maker to build a dual light engine passive system. it could use one lamp but have two imagers. something like that.
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post #1573 of 2106
4/12/12 at 6:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3dmaven View Post

I just pulled the lens off my projector and it looks like there is plenty of room for internal mounting. The little glass plate in there is about 55x45 mm so perhaps the regular size omega filter will fit, if I mount it in the right place with resect to lens shift; I will have to run the projector with the lens off to get the precise placement. I've attached a photo to see what others think, perhaps motorman45 will give his 2 cents.

its a great idea. ive done this before in testing, its important that the cone angle or to say the light rays of the image are as paralell as possible where you place the filter to get the best performance. its not always possible as imaging systems tend to have fast short focal legnth optics. make sure its at a right angle to the central image rays and try it.
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post #1574 of 2106
4/12/12 at 6:58pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3dmaven View Post

Thanks for the great first hand experience, it really helps a lot to get some wisdom from those who've travelled this path before. I think if I go with an Omega system I will have to mount the color filters between the projector and the lens (these Sim 6's have huge removable lenses and I'm not sure even the large color filter from Omega would work there). How much heat can these things take? there isn't a heck of a lot of heat at the lens end of these things (the lens is about a foot and a half from the lamp), but there is a lot of lumens of light passing through it (~3000). It would be cool to have these internally mounted.

heat should not be an issue with the omega filters. they have taken 10,000 lumens for months of testing right at the lamp focus. note these filters are not hot mirors so they pass IR mostly, this is usually not an issue as most systems already have a hot mirror in them to protect the critiacal areas. and if you put them after the light engine there is little IR there left so no issues
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post #1575 of 2106
4/13/12 at 1:03pm
I have the filters set up and my two projectors converged, but now I run into a problem that can only be explained this way -- the Oppo BD player does not output a 3D signal out of both HDMI outs at the same time. I switched cables to the 3D-XL Optoma boxes and each box will work from one of the outputs, but not the other one. So the only explanation I can think of is that the Oppo doesn't have this capability.

Oppo's promotional material says "For a multi-room installation the BDP-93 can output audio and video to two 3D or 2D T.V.s..." Doesn't work for me.
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post #1576 of 2106
4/13/12 at 1:08pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deja Vu View Post

I have the filters set up and my two projectors converged, but now I run into a problem that can only be explained this way -- the Oppo BD player does not output a 3D signal out of both HDMI outs at the same time. I switched cables to the 3D-XL Optoma boxes and each box will work from one of the outputs, but not the other one. So the only explanation I can think of is that the Oppo doesn't have this capability.

it could be you need an HDMI splitter. is the second HDMI out intended for audio? seems like it should work if not.
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post #1577 of 2106
4/13/12 at 1:18pm
Apparently you can set it up so that both HDMI outputs carry audio and video or you can chose one for audio only and the other for video only. Maybe the second is set up for audio only. I'll have to check. Too many options.
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post #1578 of 2106
4/13/12 at 4:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deja Vu View Post

Apparently you can set it up so that both HDMI outputs carry audio and video or you can chose one for audio only and the other for video only. Maybe the second is set up for audio only. I'll have to check. Too many options.

I hope you can set it up to have video out both HDMI. that would be great. i would get one if it works.
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post #1579 of 2106
4/13/12 at 6:48pm
Hi all,

I have bought two PT-AR100u for my dual setup and am trying different mounting options to get the best alignment.

I'm wondering if others have got the same projectors by now and successfully aligned them. If so, did you get the best result mounting them side by side or one on top of the other?

I've been close to perfect with one on top of the other, but not 100%.
Mounting them side by side I struggle more due to little horizontal lens-shift compared to the vertical lens-shift. I'm shooting to a 135" screen.

Anyone have good suggestions?
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post #1580 of 2106
4/14/12 at 5:59am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HenningHM View Post

Hi all,

I have bought two PT-AR100u for my dual setup and am trying different mounting options to get the best alignment.

I'm wondering if others have got the same projectors by now and successfully aligned them. If so, did you get the best result mounting them side by side or one on top of the other?

I've been close to perfect with one on top of the other, but not 100%.
Mounting them side by side I struggle more due to little horizontal lens-shift compared to the vertical lens-shift. I'm shooting to a 135" screen.

Anyone have good suggestions?

I mount mine on top of each other.

Allows them to be close, so easier to align and adjust.

Invest in a few computer cooling fans if you think there is any risk of heated air being re-circulated to the inlets of either projector. I have 4 Noctua fans running off of a small 12volt adapter to keep a fresh supply of cool air at the back of my JVC units.
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post #1581 of 2106
4/14/12 at 7:28am
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdjam View Post

I mount mine on top of each other.

Allows them to be close, so easier to align and adjust.

Invest in a few computer cooling fans if you think there is any risk of heated air being re-circulated to the inlets of either projector. I have 4 Noctua fans running off of a small 12volt adapter to keep a fresh supply of cool air at the back of my JVC units.

I agree. I have mine mounted on top of each other and aligning them was much easier. i made mine out of two plates of plexiglass drilled in a pair to get the holes the same and then 4 3/8" threaded rods with washers and nuts at the four corners to hold them spaced apart. i adjust the loaction of the lockign nuts on the rods to make the alignment. not perfect but even without lens shift i get nearly perfect alignment over the entire screen. i made the plates a bit larger than the projectors to clear the threaded rods and also to separate the air flows for cooling but the exra fans are a great idea. my whole rach cost me less than $50. if i make another it will be cabinet grade plywood. drilling plexi is a pain.
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post #1582 of 2106
4/14/12 at 7:49am
have you guys seen this rig ?

http://www.vidimensio.eu/catalog/pro...57211fb9aad3cb

i like the rack idea using a pro audio road case.

or this rack

http://www.da-lite.com/products/prod...cID=10&pID=470

you could get the parts of this unistrut to make your own from mcmasterCarr
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post #1583 of 2106
4/14/12 at 11:32am
Quote:
Originally Posted by motorman45 View Post

have you guys seen this rig ?
http://www.vidimensio.eu/catalog/pro...57211fb9aad3cb
i like the rack idea using a pro audio road case.
or this rack
http://www.da-lite.com/products/prod...cID=10&pID=470
you could get the parts of this unistrut to make your own from mcmasterCarr

Did you see the prices ? (*cough* *cough*)
I mean... really ?
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post #1584 of 2106
4/14/12 at 12:00pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by motorman45 View Post

I agree. I have mine mounted on top of each other and aligning them was much easier. i made mine out of two plates of plexiglass drilled in a pair to get the holes the same and then 4 3/8" threaded rods with washers and nuts at the four corners to hold them spaced apart. i adjust the loaction of the lockign nuts on the rods to make the alignment. not perfect but even without lens shift i get nearly perfect alignment over the entire screen. i made the plates a bit larger than the projectors to clear the threaded rods and also to separate the air flows for cooling but the exra fans are a great idea. my whole rach cost me less than $50. if i make another it will be cabinet grade plywood. drilling plexi is a pain.

Fiddled a bit more with my setup today and got perfect alignment this time.
I mounted them side-by-side with one hanging in "front/ceiling" position and the other on a shelf under my roof next to it in "front/desk" position.
Only problem with this solution is that two air-intakes are close to each other, but since both beeing intakes I doubt there will be problems. Adding an external fan might come later if I don't go back to stacking them like you have done.

Just waiting for my Omega-filters to arrive now to go 3D, they were sent March 29th so tought they would have arrived by now. Hopefully it won't take much longer but Norwegian Postal Services tend to take their time getting things through customs.

Btw.
For those who wonder about light this setup has lots and lots of it, even in cinema-mode I can run it in broad daylight and still have very good image so I doubt there will be any problems with light even after adding the filters into the mix.
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post #1585 of 2106
4/14/12 at 1:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackShark View Post

Did you see the prices ? (*cough* *cough*)
I mean... really ?

Yes I do. I could build the first one for half that with my filters and a demux box
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post #1586 of 2106
4/14/12 at 1:57pm
Another way to stack two projectors is to use two rectangles of plywood, polycarbonate, or solid wood, and get four 1/2" optical posts that Thorlabs sells for about $11US each (these are the 1 foot length - less for shorter ones). These posts have threaded holes on each end and four bolts upward and downward secure the two rectangles. Fine adjustments can be made by adding a washer or nut to the upper bolt. You can add four rubber feet to the bottom rectangle, and the entire assembly can be moved as one piece.

Costs less than $60 total and if you're into woodworking, you can add some touches to make it look really great. Add four more posts if you want to suspend it from your ceiling.

http://www.thorlabs.us/NewGroupPage9...tGroup_ID=1266
LL
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post #1587 of 2106
4/15/12 at 11:41pm
Well everyone this has been fun but I may be out of this conversation now, looks like the "Ultimate 3D" will now come in a single unit with the REDray Projector. 120hz 3D simultaneous L/R eye (I'm hoping for CFI) up to 15 foot screen and 25000 hrs of life. If its using polarization I will be disappointed though.
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post #1588 of 2106
4/16/12 at 4:43am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmcguire525 View Post

Well everyone this has been fun but I may be out of this conversation now, looks like the "Ultimate 3D" will now come in a single unit with the REDray Projector. 120hz 3D simultaneous L/R eye (I'm hoping for CFI) up to 15 foot screen and 25000 hrs of life. If its using polarization I will be disappointed though.

How could it not be polorization, unless its a dual light engine or a split lens with a filtering system like infitec or omega 3D. i have been looking for info but as you all have seen the thread ther is little to be found. ive even tried to contact them with little response.
it dose sound like the ultimate system, just dont know what the tech is
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post #1589 of 2106
4/16/12 at 4:59am
I agree, we have no specs yet. Until they actually announce what they are using I will wait.
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post #1590 of 2106
4/16/12 at 5:47am
Well if its an all laser system what kind of separation could be used. Can that light be easily polarized with a filter. I know Motorman mentioned a laser system could be designed to specifically work with there filters.
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