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The Ultimate 3D projection system: A Practical Discussion Thread - Page 61

post #1801 of 2268
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdjam View Post

...But having seen how good the brightness is on the larger screen when zoomed out, I've decided to replace my screen with something that is 16x9, with about 140" to 150" diagonal...

The Vutec Silverstar 3D-P goes up to 181" seamless. You should get one. I can't find a review anywhere. It would be awesome if you went first smile.gif
post #1802 of 2268
Quote:
Originally Posted by wnielsenbb View Post

The Vutec Silverstar 3D-P goes up to 181" seamless. You should get one. I can't find a review anywhere. It would be awesome if you went first smile.gif

I have a sample sent to me from Vutec. Seems to works with passive glasses BUT the screen is a hard surface and not a cloth/vinyl material. It also seems delicate, for example with a vinyl screen you can touch it and has some give but the Vutec seems to be less forgiving with say a finger nail or kids.
post #1803 of 2268
Yes, it is hard. I have had my regular silverstar for 8 years or so. No issues at all with durability. Seems to me to be better than a regular screen. I have leaned on it a few times that I wondered if it might have stretched a regular screen. My only slight issue is that it is pretty heavy, but that only matters when you mount it.
post #1804 of 2268
curtishd, any feedback on the Vutec sample and how it does with polarized 3d?
post #1805 of 2268
Quote:
Originally Posted by TimShadler View Post

curtishd, any feedback on the Vutec sample and how it does with polarized 3d?

I don't have a full Vutec screen or a passive set up yet (maybe later this year) BUT with my sample from Vutec it appears to retain polarization. I was also told that the screen is slightly curved. I don't know what screen I want to use for passive 3D. I would really like it if we could get a passive single projector. Motorman45 is it possible to simply swap out a dlp color wheel with a color wheel that is optically coated or made out of the two different left and right eye views?
post #1806 of 2268
Hi. I have a question. What type of solution to to clean Omega filters and glasses? Moist wipes for eyeglasses are good? Thank you.
post #1807 of 2268
Quote:
Originally Posted by sorini View Post

Hi. I have a question. What type of solution to to clean Omega filters and glasses? Moist wipes for eyeglasses are good? Thank you.

most any kind of wipe that would work on regualr glasses is fine. the projection filters i reccomend alcohol and a clean lint free wipe. the eye glasses were intended to be washed in a commertial dish washer for sanitation, you could use even cold water in a sink with a little dish soap just rinse well and dry them so not spotting happens.
hope that helps
post #1808 of 2268
Quick question for those of you who have gone the polarization route. I have an option to purchase a new LG CF3D at less then a third of its original price. This unit of course uses circular polarization. What projection screens has anyone tested with circular polarization, the Black Diamond 2.7, Mocom Screens, Stewart 5D. Any feedback would be appreciated.

Tim
post #1809 of 2268
head to the front of the thread for some info. The BD is out for sure.
post #1810 of 2268
That was the Gen2 Black Diamond, the 2.7 per rdjam is great for linear passive 3d. Curious if he tried circular on it.
post #1811 of 2268
Hi,

I tested some samples in circular setup and undoubtely STEREOVIEW 3D 2.2 (MDI Canada) is superior regarding the polarization maintaining factor.
My only obstackle when buying this was shipping limits problem (I'm in Europe/Poland).

Finally I bought custom cut (to fit USPS shipping limits 60 inches in length) fabric at eBay. I tried their sample and it was amazingly good ! Better than Harkness 240 sample, and very cheap. As I knew I cannot go wrong whit that I ordered a 250x 150cm piece and it was $150 + shipping !

Piotr.K
post #1812 of 2268
Quote:
Originally Posted by LesioQ View Post

Hi,
I tested some samples in circular setup and undoubtely STEREOVIEW 3D 2.2 (MDI Canada) is superior regarding the polarization maintaining factor.
My only obstackle when buying this was shipping limits problem (I'm in Europe/Poland).
Finally I bought custom cut (to fit USPS shipping limits 60 inches in length) fabric at eBay. I tried their sample and it was amazingly good ! Better than Harkness 240 sample, and very cheap. As I knew I cannot go wrong whit that I ordered a 250x 150cm piece and it was $150 + shipping !
Piotr.K
Do you have a website that sells STEREOVIEW 3D 2.2? Who makes it?
post #1813 of 2268
Hi,

Here they are:

http://strong-mdicinema.com/products/screens/mdi-stereoview-3d/

During e-mail chat they were helpful, provided free sample when asked for. Too bad shipping didn't work out.

The one I finally bought is this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-Stereoscopic-Projection-Screen-Material-/230333085313?pt=US_Projection_Screens_Material&hash=item35a0ebf681

Also great stuff, rollable ! Too bad they don't have exact specs and graphs for this one, but I like the outcome ... and the price.
They also offer samples, cheap but a bit smallish.

Piotr.K
post #1814 of 2268
Quote:
Originally Posted by LesioQ View Post

Hi,
Here they are:
http://strong-mdicinema.com/products/screens/mdi-stereoview-3d/
During e-mail chat they were helpful, provided free sample when asked for. Too bad shipping didn't work out.
The one I finally bought is this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-Stereoscopic-Projection-Screen-Material-/230333085313?pt=US_Projection_Screens_Material&hash=item35a0ebf681
Also great stuff, rollable ! Too bad they don't have exact specs and graphs for this one, but I like the outcome ... and the price.
They also offer samples, cheap but a bit smallish.
Piotr.K

I noticed the description for the screen at the ebay site recommends DLP and not LCD. What dlp projector is circular polarized? Or am I missing something?
post #1815 of 2268
Hi,

I don't think any DLP to be circular. I guess they just wanted to say that LCD is the harder path to take, in both linear and circular setup.
I'm happy with my circular.
Oh, by the way - I just did some testing to self-adhesive silverish plastic from:

http://www.europe.averygraphics.com/mainFL.asp?ChapterId=45&ProdID=88

Unfortunately I don't know which one is that, but looks ... silver dull rolleyes.gif
Most likely Avery 546 EM Silver confused.gif
Anyway - really nice results in circular, comparable to all others, but don't know how's it's price and max dimensions (roll width).
Piotr.K
Edited by LesioQ - 8/12/12 at 1:20pm
post #1816 of 2268
Quote:
Originally Posted by LesioQ View Post

Hi,
I don't think any DLP to be circular. I guess they just wanted to say that LCD is the harder path to take, in both linear and circular setup.
I'm happy with my circular.
Oh, by the way - I just did some testing to self-adhesive silverish plastic from:
http://www.europe.averygraphics.com/mainFL.asp?ChapterId=45&ProdID=88
Unfortunately I don't know which one is that, but looks ... silver dull rolleyes.gif
Most likely Avery 546 EM Silver confused.gif
Anyway - really nice results in circular, comparable to all others, but don't know how's it's price and max dimensions (roll width).
Piotr.K

DLP is not circular and has very little polarization bias in any direction. this makes it better to turn into a given circualr bias with a filter than a lot of LCD units. circular polarizers are a combination of a liniar polarizer with a quarter wave plate material on top facing away from the projector, the circular glasses are made in the same manner but with the quarter wave plate facing the screen and the liniar part toward the eye.
LCD and LCoS all have some plarization bias as that is how LCD works, a lot of good info on this site explains the different manufacture setups as some have mixed planes and some dont. DLP is more efficient with the lamp energy in all cases. but LCD with all the same bias works decent with just the QWP
i still think the overall efficiency and extiction is not as good as the omega filters and not needing a silver screen is a plus
post #1817 of 2268
Hi. I not understood very well. For washing glasses can use a kitchen dishwasher, which normally wash kitchenware? or a special machine? I had a question about a particular screen, DJ Screen
http://www.djscreen.com/
Now i have a Harkness screen Perlux 140 which I am very pleased but it is difficult to carry. Believe that this screen Lycra Spandex can be used with Omega technology? I know the screen is for clubs and rear (and the front) projection, but I find it extremely mobile. Thank you.
post #1818 of 2268
yes you could use a regular dish washer. in the theater installations we did they used comertial dish washers with water at 180 deg F to wash glasses between uses. the lycra spandex screen used in clubs would work just fine with the omega system. any screen surface will work including a painted wall.
post #1819 of 2268
I wrote to those who make the lycra screen. I ask what gain have the screen. Told me he has a good gain, but did not say and what value. Perlux 140 have 1.4. Do you think the Lycra screen approaches Perlux 140?
post #1820 of 2268
Quote:
Originally Posted by motorman45 View Post

DLP is not circular and has very little polarization bias in any direction. this makes it better to turn into a given circualr bias with a filter than a lot of LCD units. circular polarizers are a combination of a liniar polarizer with a quarter wave plate material on top facing away from the projector, the circular glasses are made in the same manner but with the quarter wave plate facing the screen and the liniar part toward the eye.
LCD and LCoS all have some plarization bias as that is how LCD works, a lot of good info on this site explains the different manufacture setups as some have mixed planes and some dont. DLP is more efficient with the lamp energy in all cases. but LCD with all the same bias works decent with just the QWP
i still think the overall efficiency and extiction is not as good as the omega filters and not needing a silver screen is a plus

Indeed - Omega bandpass filters seem to be a great solution for broadband light source PJs. In my case I happened to have a pair of CASIO XJ-A235 LED/laser projectors, where blue from laser is very narrowband, so no room for two blue bands, not mentioning more.

For my circular setup - only blue in A235 is polarized, wrong orientation for RealD, so had to put a waveplate (plastic) inside the PJs, just after the Blue laser module, to rotate linear polarization by 90 deg. Then one pair of RealD glasses as a donor for projector filters and here we go! Great performance, not too much thermal stress to plastic polarizers, as LED/laser is more effecient, w/o unwanted wavelengths like IR, and 20000 hours of operation expected biggrin.gif

Only downside is that my current splitter isn't HDMI 1.4a compatible, so no way to split Blu-Ray 3D movie into 3D-XL pair, only SBS movie files are working now.

Piotr.K
post #1821 of 2268
i agree the current LED and Laser systems will not work well with the omega filters, but i have been working with someone who has a 10 line laser source that if things go right and some cooperation could be a very efficient method for using a multiband white screen 3d system like mine.
one thing i dont understand totally. 20,000 hours they say for the laser or led sources, 3000 to 4000 hours on UHP, 100-125 $ to replace the UHP, unknown if even possible to replace a laser or LED bank. how is this more cost effective ? now not talking dimming over time just the normal argument that lasers will last so much longer. ??
post #1822 of 2268
heheh 20,000 Most likely the projector will go before that or you will replace it because you want a better projector.

even if you watched 4 hours a day that would be (20000/4)/365 = 13.6986301369863 Years

I don't mind buying a projector every 10 years :P

Most bulbs are $200 plus and JVC bulbs are $450. This cost adds up the longer you keep your projector.

You also have the fact of a dimming bulb.
post #1823 of 2268
well, from what I have read led/lasers do indeed dim. A positive is that they use less power when they dim.
I put more than 20k hours on my old panny 2000 in just a few years. I telecommute on my projector 3 days a week and play video games till 1am on it after that. I got 5k hours on one bulb. I don't see the bulb life as the advantage as much as the image quality advantages. Lasers are really pretty.
post #1824 of 2268
Quote:
Originally Posted by curtishd View Post

Can we get a roll call with your Projectors, screen type and size and which filter your using?

I see it's been a while since this was asked, but I thought I'd post my set up, since there were so few responses.. Also, I've barely touched my projector set up in months (I've maybe watched 10 hours total (2D AND 3D) since December-ish..), due to no time, so I haven't been keeping up with any kind of 3D advances..

Just yesterday I randomly read a thing about Omega 3D's filters and got reeeeally curious, so among other things, I read the last 30 or so pages of this thread..

Anyway, my current set up:

Projectors: 2x Sanyo PLV-Z5 in ECO mode only.. Yup.. they're anything but light cannons. (I already had 1 of them, and I picked up a second one for extremely cheap, because it needed a lamp..). Soo, I bought 2 brand new lamps (mine was at 1800 hours) to get them both running "new-ish".
Screen type: Da-Lite HighPower (model B pull down...) (I bought it spring of 2011.. it's supposedly 2.4 gain..)
Screen size: 106" 16:9 diagonal
filters: Dolby 3D .. No experience with anything else. I investigated silver-screen materials and threw that idea out pretty quick, especially with my "weak" Z5's. I use a pair of (glass) lenses from some Dolby 3D glasses as the actual filters.. I didn't bother getting the expensive filters.

This set up is in the living room.. White ceiling, off white carpet, cream colored walls, though the projector shoots across the short width of the room, so the side walls are like 8 feet out from either side of the screen, so they don't cause problems with stray light. Day-time viewing is pretty much impossible for me, due to windows everywhere. Night-time viewing with some lights is doable, but night-time viewing with all the lights off is spectacular. I blame the HighPower screen - it makes everything explooode in brightness. It rocks. I don't think I could imagine 3D without that brilliance.

Anyway, how I use 3D: I exclusively watch 3D Blu-ray movies using Stereoscopic Player on an HTPC. I don't do computer gaming these days, and haven't on the PC in years, so I have no 3D gaming experience. I DO use an HTPC, though, to run my system, since the 3D-xl wasn't really available in the US yet when I set this up.. And now, since I barely use it, I'm not really interested in buying 2x 3D-xl's, just to get some 3D gaming through my PS3.. Also, my concern at the time was dealing with Dolby color correction so I figured that I'd need a PC to handle it.. It turns out, with a bunch of tweaking in the Z5's, I got the color correction about as good as I needed to, though I have since added a bittt of color adjustment in the display drivers, which helps a bit more.

So, my HTPC.. It's an Intel i5, and I just use the integrated graphics, which outputs to 2 displays at once. I've *never* had any sync problems, but again, I'm not doing gaming, so don't know if that would change anything. I also have an AMD Radeon 4550 (I think that's the model..), which was the cheapest HDMI-out card I could find (cost me about $15 after a rebate..), and it also uses the lowest power of any add-on graphics card, and it's also silent (no fan..). These both were very important to me and the price was a bonus.. I use that to output HDMI audio to my receiver, since Intel's graphics drivers support only 2 devices at once.. So I couldn't do dual projectors AND hi-def audio without an extra graphics (or audio) card.. But HDMI audio cards were pretty much $100+ dollars, haha.. pointless, when $15 did the same thing..

I've had this set going for a bit over 1 year, and really, it's pretty awesome. The most annoying thing is dealing with putting my blu-ray discs on the computer and then using Stereoscopic Player. Having a box that just demuxes the left/right from a player would make things a whole lot easier. I have contemplated the 3D-xl many many times (since color correction is good enough in the projectors), but haven't been able to justify them, due to my lack of play-time / projector usage the last bajillion months.. The other annoying thing, for me, is going between 3D and 2D viewing.. I went into the "secret menu" to change some color (due to the extreme Dolby color shift..) on the Z5, so whenever I go back to 2D, I need to do that again, to get my normal colors back.. It really only takes like 2 minutes tops, but it's more than zero-effort..

The potential of the Omega filters definitely has me interested in checking them out, if I get a chance. However, I'd say right now, my Dolby set up color-wise looks fairly similar (I'll say it's 85%) to BlackShark's Omega set up, so I wonder, with a non-xenon bulb, if it's just not going to get better. The main 2 "problem" colors for me are a red-orange and a blue-purple.. If you look at BlackShark's picture (post 1727, page 58) of CLUE (Jeff Bridges digital self in TRON Legacy), the red/orange stripe on his suit.. I have the same issue. It's very orange-yellow on one projector, and very red on the other projector. As others have mentioned, you get a bit of a "shimmering", since the colors are quite off, but your brain is still trying to combine them. Interestingly, it's a color that's generally only in movies as a GLOWY color, anyway, so it's more weird than an actual problem.. Candle light, sunsets, glowy effects.. (I think I've seen a dress with it before, and it was distracting.) The other color is a blue, and it's best seen in Avatar.. The opening scene when Jake (main character) wakes up from cryo-sleep. If I close one eye, his face looks purple, and if I close the other eye, his face looks more of a blue-green.. Their color intensity and brightness are pretty close, though, so the combined-in-the-brain color actually is pretty decent.

However, the Omega white-balance seems WAY better than Dolby, and even BlackShark's colors look significantly closer between left and right, which makes me believe it's probably a whooole heck of a lot easier to color balance than the Dolby.. But the brain really does amazing things, and you'd never notice most of the time. As others have said, color brightness is more of the issue that causes eye problems. If I get a chance, I'll take some pictures.

My thoughts / experiences:

Projectors: My PLV-Z5's are, well, underwhelming, you'd think, haha.. But they hold up pretty well with the HighPower screen. Due to the HighPower screen, the projectors need to be near-the-viewers.. Mine aren't in the best place, but they're pretty close. They are 2 feet above my head (stacked one above the other), when I'm sitting on the couch.. So noise is a concern.. Especially since there are 2 of them. I run them ONLY in ECO mode.. They have a veerrrrrry tiny hum in eco mode, but are louder than I can stand in non-eco mode.. The noise (in non-eco mode) mostly disappears while watching stuff, but I still don't like it. Supposedly 22 db eco, and 27 or 29 db in full.. The only other modern-ish projector I have experience with is a Benq W6000, which I owned with my old roommates. That one is mind-blowingly better 2D picture wise and brightness wise, but louder. I don't think I'd be able to handle 2 of those 2 feet above my head.

If I were to upgrade projectors today, previously I would have told you something like the Epson 8350.. But now maybe I need to pay attention to xenon bulbs, hmm... All I know is decent color correction is important and same with placement flexibility, if you're using something like a HighPower screen. And I surely shouldn't be spending $2K+ on each projector, so nothing super-fancy for me. Also, noise is a big factor for me.

However... people mentioning CFI (creative frame interpolation) as something you should want for 3D know what they're talking about! Think of Avatar, when Jake is getting chased by the big cat... Chunks of wood and leaves flying everywhere.. When that stuff goes by fast, it's verrry hard on the eyes to follow, and you kind of lose the 3D or it just doesn't look right.. if you've got CFI that gives you some in-between frames, it will probably help a lot with immersion.. Another example, just last night, I watched Born to be Wild 3D, and there was a scene where a baby elephant ran off the screen, stage right.. He started going too fast for the frame rate, and it got very "weird" / jumpy.. just for about 1 second tops.. But it was enough to be like "AAH!" I guess you could technically re-encode every movie at a higher frame rate, and that will do it for you, but that's a LOT of work, if you ask me...

Also, dynamic iris.. For me, one projector happens to be a bit brighter than the other one, to a point of annoyance, if I don't do something about it. I'm not sure if it's because of the High Power screen, and one projector being slighter higher than the other (probably not so much..), or if it's due to the Dolby filters, one being stronger than the other, or maybe just one of my projectors is dimmer.. Regardless, using the dynamic iris, I set one to all the way off, and the other to fully open, and it works really well for balancing them out.. I know this essentially kills extra contrast, but the dimming of the image by whatever 3D system you choose, doesn't really give you a same exactness as 2D in terms of contrast.. Or at least that's what I've seen..

Really, you don't need the newest/awesomest projectors here, but some features aaare useful.. The CFI is probably the most expensive / cost prohibitive option..

Also, as for worries of bulbs aging differently over time, I think you're going to enjoy such a set-up a whole lot more by just getting it, rather than fretting about it and waiting til better lighting options are available.. You'll use 3D so much less than 2D, it's not something to to pour every ounce of energy into worrying about. (And for bulb-aging, just swap which projector you use every X-hundred hours... it should keep them fairly even..).

Screen Type: The Da-Lite HighPower.. I'll never go back.. I wish I had only gone bigger.. They now have a High Power High Contrast.. I'd consider checking that one out, though it supposedly has a smaller sweet-spot, and there were some issues with the consistency of the material maybe, I read some where..? Something wasn't 100% with it yet.. For 3D, though, these filters drop down the light, which actually lowers the black-level (or maybe apparent black level?), so for 3D, a white screen probably shouldn't be much of a problem. But for doing 2D and 3D on one screen, I'd probably be happier with a high contrast (in addition to the high power).

With 3D and High Power, everything glows. It looks amazing. High Power all the way for me! If I step off to the side, I still see 3D, but it's dull and dim and NOT immersive. It COULD just be that my projectors are not very bright.. : D But even compared to the W6000 on black out cloth (bright!), I prefer the look of the High Power screen.

Screen Size: So I have a 106 inch diagonal.. My projectors are about 13 feet, 4 inches from the screen.. So that's I guess about a 1.73 throw ratio.. I think I could push it to a 119 at this distance, but the filters might be a bitttt too small.. 119 or 132 would be my preferred sized for sure.. 106 is great and all, but really 3D is all about big and wow-ing, and 106 is kinda falling short, haha.. It's great and all, but bigger, in this case, is definitely better..

Filters: Dolby 3D.. when I did this, Omega 3D's filters weren't around.. I just use the lenses from a pair of Dolby glasses.. And they work just fine.. Now, though, I'm sort of wanting these Omegas, to at least check them out and compaaare!

Cross-talk.. The only time I see anything is if there's white from one projector and black from the other.. Like if I open a directory in Windows looking for a file... You can see it a bit through the other eye.. Butt, that's pretty extreme, and it's pretty dim, so it's pretty much impossible to see during playback. I have never noticed any cross-talk issues... Howeverrr... The Dolby glasses have a center "sweet spot".. so if I turn my head, of I lean my head back on the couch and watch at an angle, there IS apparent cross-talk.. You need to look out through the center of the lenses. That's about the only issue.

Color Balance (or imbalance..).. It's definitely extreme, but hours of sitting in front of the projectors got me something pretty acceptable. Even if the Omega 3D filters help just a little bit, you're in for a big increase in color accuracy, so that should be great.

Also, the Omega ones are easy to get through the ebay auction.. The Dolby glasses were either (a) some what of a rip-off through eBay, or (b) you needed to get a hold of a theater-supply place. I did that, and the guy was super cool about ordering just a few pairs of glasses, but it was an ancient process.. Send me a form, I fill it out, write a check, send it back, he orders, etc etc. It was rather comical, and maybe that was just my experience / luck of who I called..

I think I've run out of stuff to blabber on about, haha..

Oh yea! One final thing... I don't know if this really works in terms of how much brighter 2 projectors + passive are vs 1 projector active.. But if I am watching a movie, and I "blank" the screen of one of the projectors, everything looks insanely dim.. And just loses all its luster. If that's what it looks like through active glasses, holy heck, I'm sorry for everyone who has to watch 3D that way.. I should go over to my friends' places and compare, actually.

At some point, I'm sure I'll pick up the Omega filters and compare them to my Dolby set up, and hopefully get better color correction while I'm at it. If/when I do, I'll report back, probably with fancy pictures, since I'll have time to do all thatttt if I do swap them out.

Anyway, that's my set up and experience with 3D, though it seems this thread has quieted down a whole lot.
post #1825 of 2268
Okay.. Here's my take on screen sizes for 3D.. I just went and had a lovely sit-down with a couple movies..

*edit*
As wnielsenbb pointed out, these numbers work for me! Definitely try a whole lot of seating distances to see what works, if you can.. I found that having a too-small screen definitely affects the 3D experience. And having a too large one does too.. (For 2D, btw, I can sit .5x from the screen and have no problem.)

Well.. After considering wnielsenbb, I tried again, and I'm kinda throwing out my observations for maximum size..

I'll say this.. my normal viewing distance is at a distance of 1.65x the width of my screen, and it is underwhelming. The screen is too small to really give me a feeling of immersion.

When I sat at distance of 1.5x, there was a huge difference, and I actually found it immersive. Getting even closer helped even more, but getting to 1.25x started to be a bit of work.. It was no longer zero-effort watching, so if I was planning around certain guests, I'd be concerned if that was too close.

I had felt about a 1.25x distance was spot on for me (and perhaps too close for many), but it turned out that changed based on the 3D content. I came to the 1.25x distance based on watching Avatar, which has lots of close-up people faces and very fast action. Anything closer than 1.25x, and the human faces looked too large/distorted in close up shots (of the humans only.. looking at the Navi was totally fine..). Also, any wide-field shots were totally fine, and Navi shots were totally fine all the way up to 0.75x distance.. Fast motion was very hard to follow and kinda tiring, though.. I was getting a headache at 0.75x from the eye strain.

When I watched a couple of IMAX movies, though, a distance of 0.75x was totally fine, and in fact, it was freaking awesome! But the IMAX movies were much much more wide field shots and slow easy paced content..

Soo, I have no idea what the best screen size / viewing distance ratio is, but I sure know that a viewing distance of 1.65x for 3D really does not do it justice. I'd probably beg anyone seriously wanting 3D to go biggger than thatttt, haha.. : D
Edited by rakkid - 8/23/12 at 3:23am
post #1826 of 2268
And here are some pictures... Again, this is with Dolby 3D glasses, using glass from some Dolby glasses as filters.

In this image, the pink of the window on the left is actually from the right-projector, and the green-ish part of the window on the right is from the left projector.. Holding the glasses up, you can see the small amount of cross talk.


Here's are a couple more.. (Note, the desktop icons are NOT cross-talk.. They are projected through the left projector, so you can see them through the left eye.. The window, though, is being projected through the right projector.. hence the darkness next to the desktop icons..)



Here you can see a big red-orange difference, though it's not noticeable while actually watching..



I took these to compare to BlackShark's pics.



If you look in the top left corner, you'll see the red bar in one image, and it orange in the other image.. That's the most troublesome color for me.

post #1827 of 2268
How dose this look ?? ive got a few of these i can sell.

7839366154_21065b1342_b.jpg
Edited by motorman45 - 8/22/12 at 10:32am
post #1828 of 2268
Quote:
Originally Posted by rakkid View Post

So there you have it.. 1.4x to 1.5x is probably the best compromise.. 1.25x to 1.65x is the limit, with 1.25x to 1.5x as being a better / "ultimate" limit, as it were.

Big note: "For You"

I sit at .77x and love it. 7' from a 120" screen. 1.65x width would put you in the lobby of the iMax theater.
Edited by wnielsenbb - 8/22/12 at 1:14pm
post #1829 of 2268
What's the Price Motorman?
post #1830 of 2268
working on that , but i have to say this is has a lot more than a 3dxl. screen warping/mapping for curved surface, edge blending for multi projectors, color correcting.... well you get it. and i know the price has been quoted direct to some on here from VNS so i cant sell it for what we paid for them the 501 box has a list price of $2100 . the small omega kit with 5 pairs of glasses and the 501 box. we will innitially offer it at $1750 i belive. large kit with the Larger projection filters and 10 pairs of glasses with the 501 for $2150.
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AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP › The Ultimate 3D projection system: A Practical Discussion Thread