Thanks to the wonderful work started by PlumB, I followed this thread from its inception. I tried the different methods of checking my videocards to see if they would read the advanced timings with 3 different laptops and my personal desktop, and all had issues. When my company upgraded my workstation at home, I tried my old Windows XP with a PCI Radeon HD 2400 Pro (the card was used to support monitors 2 and 3). Thanks to the detailed instructions in the first post and tips along the way, I was able to flash my EDID on HDMI3 of my HL67A750 with no issue using a DVI to HDMI adapter on the card.
Because the flash was successful, I purchased a new 3DC-1000 on the 1st. (I purchased it from the seller that is currently listed on amazon.com. They are a local store to me, authorized delaer of many brands, and used them to purchase my speaker upgrades. I try to use them whenever I can because of their great service). When I called their store, the person that has helped me plenty of times told me he couldn't guarantee that the new builds would work with what I did, but I figured I'd still risk the cost of gas to try. After I purchased it and brought it home, I opened the box to see a build date of Sep 2011. I was a little concerned that Mits might have updated the box to look for something else in the EDID, but after I hooked it up, I was watching the 3D demo disk that came with the starter pack through the PS3.
I still have work to do for the final install (Plan on hooking it up to HDMI 2 Out from my Denon AVR4311CI to HDMI 3 on the tv and leaving HDMI 1 Out from the AVR straight to HDMI 1 on the TV due to the limited picture adjustments in 3d). I already setup new Harmony activities specifically for 3d XBOX, 3D PS3, and 3D DishNetwork using the dual HDMI outs of the AVR. This way, I'll be able to have a great picture for 2D but still be able to watch 3D without losing the 2D and non-PC adjustments.
Couple things I noticed: 1. The red tint is horrible out of the box with the A750 (I had read this through the diffenrent threads, but hoped I wouldn't notice too bad). I ended up putting 3D mode as dynamic picture setting and raising the brightness to get rid of most of the red tint. Still visible in some scenes, but not nearly as noticeable when I first tried it. Still need to do a full calibration after entering the Service Menu 2. This does not work very well at all if you do not name the input PC. I don't know how anyone can say they have great 3D if it is not named PC. I tried naming it Blu-ray and Digital Media Adapter and there was no depth to the picture, but there was a lot of eye strain (actually gave me a headache at one point).
In closing, I just want to say thanks again to those that took the time to figure it out for the rest of us willing to brick an input. Even though this method is no longer necessary to achieve 3D on the set without the Geffen device, it is still the most cost effective method considering the price from the only source of the 3DC-100S versus the multiple sellers of the 3DC-1000. I also wanted to let people know that if they put off waiting to do this (like I did), the new builds of the 3DA-1 will work (Sep 2011 confirmed).
p.s. My wife is a huge Disney fan, so I used that to my advantage in buying the starter kit. Showed her the starter kit had disney stuff, and she was excited to see what it had. She loved the old disney short with Donald Duck, thought the "heart and peanut effects were cool", but of all the demo material on the disk, I thought it was what most reminded me of looking through a viewmaster as a kid. So far, the best 3D I've seen is the motorstorm demo on the PS3, but we're going to buy a couple of 3D Blu-rays this weekend to try out. I'm sure The Lion King 3D will be on that shopping list as it was a favorite of both of ours growing up