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3D on Samsung 1080p DLP with Mitsubishi 3DA-1 and no Gefen - Page 13

post #361 of 1126
Quote:
Originally Posted by jford951 View Post

Plumb

Please update 5687 as working so other know

Same here 5687 works great!
post #362 of 1126
Big trouble!!! Accidently flash my EDID Samsung Laptop ( R580-JS04CA ) trying to Flash my 67A750.
I dont make a backup of it. Did some one have this EDID?

PS. The laptop have nvidia 310m and never be able to see the udated EDID of the TV.
post #363 of 1126
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayoldschool View Post

Great first post, very informative.

What connection did you use from your computer?

I used a cheap 6 ft. DVI to HDMI cable from monoprice, running under Vista Ultimate 32.
post #364 of 1126
Quote:
Originally Posted by ybp11 View Post

Big trouble!!! Accidently flash my EDID Samsung Laptop ( R580-JS04CA ) trying to Flash my 67A750.
I dont make a backup of it. Did some one have this EDID?

PS. The laptop have nvidia 310m and never be able to see the udated EDID of the TV.

I'm sorry, I can't help you. My sympathies though.

I guess this points out the inherent danger in doing this procedure. Not to mention the warning in the first post about NOT USING A LAPTOP.
post #365 of 1126
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ybp11 View Post

Big trouble!!! Accidently flash my EDID Samsung Laptop ( R580-JS04CA ) trying to Flash my 67A750.
I dont make a backup of it. Did some one have this EDID?

PS. The laptop have nvidia 310m and never be able to see the udated EDID of the TV.

Powerstrip should have made a backup automatically before it flashed the EDID. It's normally saved as a bin file in the same folder of the EDID you used to update. It should be called "old_*********.bin". If you haven't restarted the laptop yet I wouldn't recommend it until you get the EDID restored. If you have restarted it and the display is messed up you should still be able to use an external display.

There should also be a record of it in the registry. Start up moninfo, it should be listed under "Display IDs" in the upper left corner as [Registry]. Hope this helps.
post #366 of 1126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Russ Younger View Post


Same here 5687 works great!

Russ do you have Directv ?
post #367 of 1126
PlumB your great!

You are great suport here! My laptop come back. Thanks!!!

By the way ( I get error message telling me that either my EEPROM is write protected or the cable is simply too long. ) that mind i need shorter cable or my eeprom is protected.

PS Excuse my english I m french speaking...
post #368 of 1126
Thread Starter 
Glad you got it back!

If you've gone into the service menu and disabled write protection on your TV then that message is probably because your laptop's video card isn't compatible with powerstrip. Others have been able to get it working by disabling either the laptop display or the external display. Otherwise you may need to find a different PC to try.
post #369 of 1126
EDID info for Samsung HL56A650:

After month's worth of waiting I finally got the Mits 3D adapter.
I'm going to attempt to override the HDMI3 port tonight...


Code:
Monitor
  Model name............... SAMSUNG
  Manufacturer............. Samsung
  Plug and Play ID......... SAM03AE
  Serial number............ n/a
  Manufacture date......... 2007, ISO week 46
  -------------------------
  EDID revision............ 1.3
  Input signal type........ Digital
  Color bit depth.......... Undefined
  Display type............. RGB color
  Screen size.............. 1600 x 900 mm (72.3 in)
  Power management......... Not supported
  Extension blocs.......... 1 (Reserved - 0x00)
  -------------------------
  DDC/CI................... Not supported

Color characteristics
  Default color space...... Non-sRGB
  Display gamma............ 2.20
  Red chromaticity......... Rx 0.650 - Ry 0.330
  Green chromaticity....... Gx 0.300 - Gy 0.600
  Blue chromaticity........ Bx 0.150 - By 0.080
  White point (default).... Wx 0.313 - Wy 0.329
  Additional descriptors... None

Timing characteristics
  Horizontal scan range.... 26-68kHz
  Vertical scan range...... 23-61Hz
  Video bandwidth.......... 230MHz
  CVT standard............. Not supported
  GTF standard............. Not supported
  Additional descriptors... None
  Preferred timing......... Yes
  Native/preferred timing.. 1920x1080p at 60Hz (16:9)
    Modeline............... "1920x1080" 148.500 1920 2008 2052 2200 1080 1084 1089 1125 +hsync +vsync
  Detailed timing #1....... 1360x768p at 60Hz (16:9)
    Modeline............... "1360x768" 85.500 1360 1424 1536 1792 768 771 777 795 +hsync +vsync

Standard timings supported
     640 x  480p at  60Hz - IBM VGA
     800 x  600p at  60Hz - VESA
    1024 x  768p at  60Hz - VESA
    1280 x 1024p at  60Hz - VESA STD

Report information
  Date generated........... 10/25/2010
  Software revision........ 2.52.0.857
  Data source.............. Real-time 0x0100
  Operating system......... 6.1.7600.2

Raw data
  00,FF,FF,FF,FF,FF,FF,00,4C,2D,AE,03,00,00,00,00,2E,11,01,03,80,A0,5A,78,0A,AE,A1,A6,54,4C,99,26,
  14,50,54,21,08,00,81,80,01,01,01,01,01,01,01,01,01,01,01,01,01,01,02,3A,80,18,71,38,2D,40,58,2C,
  45,00,40,84,63,00,00,1E,66,21,50,B0,51,00,1B,30,40,70,36,00,40,84,63,00,00,1E,00,00,00,FD,00,17,
  3D,1A,44,17,00,0A,20,20,20,20,20,20,00,00,00,FC,00,53,41,4D,53,55,4E,47,0A,20,20,20,20,20,01,BE
post #370 of 1126
An update, I was able to successfully flash my HL56A650 and get it working with the adapter I didnt try the extended information. I'll try that next, you just follow the same steps right? Just with a different file.

TRU3D007, seriously? I'm not a DLP expert my any means, I could see how Samsung DLPs with LEDs would have different scan settings than Mits.
There are few items in your rant that make it seem like your upset that your loosing business for your 3D adapter solution and your not really giving us the full story.

First your solution is more expensive by $215+ (with tax and S&H) not $100 like you say.

Second, your calling everyone out in this thread, "If you are brave: Direct connect to the service leads inside the Mitsubishi 3DA-1 and reprogram it directly on both the input and output side. We do not do this because it destroys warranties and is bad business practice." If this is the proper way to do it, please post how can we go about doing this?

Third, How come no one's TV's have broken in this message board? can you provide sources of these "other" people?

The way I see it, I bought my 56" DLP in early 2008 for $850. It has served me well, I'm going to stick to DLPs going forward.
Worse case, lets say my TV breaks, after 6-9 months, that will lead me to buy a new Mits DLP TV that I can use my $100 3D Adapter with. If I buy your product I'm stuck with a $215 Geffen that is useless to me. If I do the math, my TV will need a DLP lamp soon, which is ~ $150 + $215 for the Geffen = $365 for maintaining my Samsung, for 2 extra years.
I don't know if you guys have seen but Mits DLPs are $800 for 61" with 2 free Glasses.
So for an extra $435 I get a new TV with extra pair of glasses and an upgrade from 56"->61" I really don't see a problem. This is just my story and my angle.

Also, when it comes to PlumB, what the hell man, PlumB has been humble through out this entire endeavor, he was just someone that was curious if this would work. There is no need to rip him apart. Not cool. People kept asking him questions (me included) and he helped us out with what he had. He could have easily just walk away but he stuck around, without a build up of an ego.

When we mess with firmware we know we're ****ing with **** we shouldn't be, don't make people who acted on their own, victims.
post #371 of 1126
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRU3D007 View Post

This issue of the information in this thread has been addressed per request of many recent new customers to prevent others from experiencing trouble with enough hints about the right solution to steer any hard-core D-I-Y ers in the right direction. You probably only need a very basic electrical engineering background to read between the lines of our post above and figure it out with having to buy anything from us. But I'm definately not posting crystal clear code and instructions about our trade secrets. Nice try though!

We'll pleasantly leave your huddle alone now, the thread is all yours.

I agree absolutely with doing whatever works for you. Glad it worked for you!

The information on your post is fragmented at best, and your tone is curiously exhortative, which lead me to (even with all the benefit of doubt) think twice about your motive as stated.

If you really wanted to save people's TV sets (even though I'm not convinced how EDID flashing could be so catastrophic!!!), I could appreciate that.

Even if all you wanted to do was to save your company's tech support some headache, I could understand that too.

However, I for one couldn't care less about my $500 DLP set that I've used for three years breaks in so many months or not... I would've still done this procedure just to see if it worked or not! You see; many of us are like that. You generalize too much... If anyone on this thread that followed Plumb's instructions and somehow destroyed their set, and then blames plumb for that; he or she had no business reading or following this thread in the first place. Anyone who reads AVS forums and brave (or stupid) enough to hook up a PC to their TV set should've known what they were doing, or at least be informed enough to accept any ill consequence.

Anyway, welcome to the thread and thanks for somewhat informative post

Edit: Your post gave me an idea I couldn't resist!! I don't have cable and nor did I plan on getting one in the future... However, in light of your post, I've decided to get 3D cable box in seven or eight months and watch my TV burn itself into TV Nirvina!!! )
post #372 of 1126
posts deleted

you can disagree with another poster but if you attack you will be asked to leave the thread
post #373 of 1126
TRU3D007, time to support your claims.

Quote:


There is no need to write anything to the back of your HDTV! Doing so will permanently change it into a 'partially' recoverable state....some-times NON-recoverable.

The original EDID is easily restored by simply using the service menu.

Quote:


Stop breaking people's HDTVs.

For every one that you make work, you're breaking 2, at least as far was we can tell.

How EXACTLY are the TVs being "broken"? Why would people learn how to do something here, have their TV break, then report it only to you, and not on this thread? There is not a single report of a broken TV on this thread.

Quote:


Your writing of EDID data into the back of the Samsung DLP to Spoof the Mitsubishi 3DA-1 is un-necessary and will result in many broken HDTVs next year when broadcast stations go to higher quality 3D transmission and start auto activating that little 3D Status light on the 3DA-1.

Again, proof/sources?

I could go on and on, but I really don't think I need to. Smart consumers will always vote with their wallets, and many will be happy to keep the cost of that Geffen in their pocket
post #374 of 1126
Seems to me the failure rate over at the Tru3D thread is far far higher than it is on this one. Not to mention, that Tru3D is using their customers as beta testers by selling them a full priced product. Then, attempted to charge $70 extra for fixes to their own product when it didn't work for everyone as advertised. Tru3D only backed off that policy when Tru3D's customers complained in the Tru3D thread. Not to mention that some folks may be waiting 6 weeks or more for the Tru3D fully functional solution after they plunk their money down because of of firmware and hardware issues in the Tru3D product.

By the way, my Panasonic DMP-BDT350 plays Cloudy With a Chance of Meatballs in 3D either side by side or checkerboard output equally well with 1080P@24fps 25,000+ kbps average input and 1080P@60fps output with my comercial stock 3DA-1. Which is exactly what the 3DA-1 specifies. What cable company or broadcaster is gonna output a signal better than that. They're already crying about bandwith with HD lite.

I challenge anyone that has physically hurt their Samsung DLP or even knows of someone that has physically hurt their Samsung DLP by using the procedure on this thread to make a post to this thread.

It's quite one issue to try PlumB's process/suggestion and have it fail than to try it and break their TV. I've not seen or heard of anyone that has broken their TV, one way or another, using the process listed on this thread. I feel, as if, Tru3D is just trying to scare folks into buying the Tru3D solution. Which may be safer (remains to be seen) but, is much much more costly.

I've been reading the Tru3D thread since it started as I've been reading this thread since it started. IMHO, there has been much more crying over at the Tru3D thread because Tru3D is trying to market their product to average joe. Whereas, no one here is trying to make a profit on anything and users should use common sense whether they have the ability to do the mod or not. I'm inclined to trust someone just trying to help as opposed to someone trying to make a profit.

EDIT: Suitably modified to remove attacks.
post #375 of 1126
This is crazy it does seem like tru3d is trying to just scare us but who knows. I think everyone here knows that this was basically an experiment and it has seem to work. We all knew there were risks I am one of those people who knew nothing about this and did the reading and it worked. I have Directv and ps3 working great. So were are these people who knew nothing tried it and messed up there TV's. I wasn't one of them
post #376 of 1126
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRU3D007 View Post

If you have not heard the term 'starfield' regarding a DLP, then you are definately not someone that should follow the advice of PlumB and others. A starfield is what you will see if you are not careful once you connect to wrong 3D device too many times...then you'll be investing in a $400 DLP chip replacement that may not be easily available.

Apparently, Google hasn't heard of your starfield analogy either. (well except for your first recorded usage in internet history in this thread).

Tru3d, If you honestly believe any of what you said, post some proof. Give us screenshots of failures, customer failure messages, or hard proof. I honestly believe you're just trying to protect your bottom line. Until you back up your claims, I wish you good luck selling snake oil to the remaining 3 million 3d customers.

BTW, stop mentioning Full HD 1080p like it doesn't exist already because if you haven't heard PS3 already does that. So If DirectTV does update their receivers, they're not doing anything PS3 hasn't been doing with their Full HD 1080p 24/60hz Blu-Ray playback.
post #377 of 1126
Thread Starter 
Wow, what a day!

First of all,

kevinz13, sounds like you already got it working but that EDID is the same as the HL50A650, and yes the the ext block is updated the exact same way as the base block. I'll be updating the OP soon with a smaller list organized by stock PnP ID, and I'll try to make it less confusing.

Also since someone mentioned it, the ability to restore the stock EDID has only been confirmed by me on my HL50A650. Unless someone knows differently I think this may be limited to the 650/750 models. That said, if you've flashed it once you can always flash it back to stock.

Quote:


You do realize that you can reprogram the 3DA-1 if you open the case for direct connection to a Samsung and not damage consumer's HDTVs, right? Look at the little silver sockets on the boards.

Quote:


If you are brave: Direct connect to the service leads inside the Mitsubishi 3DA-1 and reprogram it directly on both the input and output side. We do not do this because it destroys warranties and is bad business practice.

Quote:


You must re-program the 3DA-1 for direct connectivity to the Samsung (look inside the 3DA-1) and then custom program a GEFEN to place in-between the 3D Source and 3DA-1 to communicate ALL proper HDMI 1.4 3D Formats at proper scan modes with a plug-and-play ID that is recognized for all devices while not damaging the Samsung over time.

So... you reprogram it but you actually don't? Or you do? Wait... WHAT?

I think what they're actually doing is either a firmware or hardware mod to the 3DA-1 to make it work no matter what it's connected to. Changing the 4 byte PnP ID of the EDID does the same thing without changing any other part of the EDID. The 3DA-1 will then modify the EDID to enable the source to output 3D. Instead of letting the 3DA-1 do the job they are using a Gefen to tell the source what formats to output. Either way, I believe the 3DA-1 will output the same 1080p 60Hz checkerboard signal when it sees a 3D format, otherwise it will just pass a non-3D signal unaltered. All the updated EDIDs I've posted have been edited to show the same formats as the stock EDID, both before and after the 3DA-1 modifies it.

I was originally following the previous thread(which was not true 3d's support thread) waiting for a nice, easy, cheap solution. When others were having trouble with that method, and I found a way to make it work, I decided to post there to let others like me know. There were many users who expressed interest so I started this thread so we all could learn. I'm not trying to sell anything and it's absolutely not my intention to "rid the world of DLPs".

If you are really worried about destroying your Samsung, please do not attempt to modify the EDID. If anyone has actually ruined their Samsung by doing this please post something here so that others know the true danger.
post #378 of 1126
Talk about waking up on the wrong side of the bed….I check this thread every other day and TRU3D’s post caught off guard…wow….looks like someone is really pissed, that was a lot of information to read by TRU3D and after the 1st few sentences you could just feel the anger inside…But seriously…why would these individuals go complain to TRU3D about PlumB’s procedure and not come into this thread and post what problems/issues those specific individuals are having??? Makes no sense….

Personally, I think a lot of TRU3D’s customer are not happy and are wanting refunds realizing a lot of people had good results with PlumB’s update. Think about…how many consumer’s that spend hundreds of $$$ are having issues with TRU3D’s set up and are probably now wanting a refund!!! I would pissed off too….
post #379 of 1126
Just read TRU3D007's post. I'm speechless, it's like a combination of passive-aggresive and repressed anger all packaged up into one post!

It's not like people who experimented with this method didn't know they were taking a risk! Somewhere deep down inside all of us lies a little kid wanting to take things apart and try new things!

The fact that he took the time to write such a confusing and anger-filled post is indicative of a clear agenda!

Anyway, back to watching some cool on-demand comcast 3D programs!
post #380 of 1126
Yeah, the TRUE3D posts seem...contrived...misdirected...off base. I'm sure the 10-20 folks who have followed Plumb's advice are swamping TRUE's cust service lines. Maybe they should refer them to this forum for assistance

PlumB, ignore that dude. You offer what everybody here offers and/or wants from time to time. A chance to enhance your set when the manufacturer has left you high and dry.

Great job...you come across as very knowledgeable on the process and so far, very concerned with other's issues, etc. TRUE's concerns seem to be more crying wolf than fact so far.

Users of PlumBs' direction should definitely continue to provide feedback here, positive and negative to fully vet this out over the next few months.
post #381 of 1126
I've been following this thread and the other gefen solution thread since the beginning and like others here I am really surprised with TRU3D's response to what people are doing here. I have a Hl61A750 and I haven't purchased anything yet for 3D on my TV because Im waiting for more content first. I like most people assumed, as soon as I read that this involves connecting to a pc or the service menu, that this was an 'at your own risk' type of thing that could seriously mess up the tv. If people take that risk and something goes wrong I don't understand why anyone is to blame but themselves and I don't understand why they would go complaining to tru3d.

With TRU3D I am completely shocked at how they responded to this. I'm no electrical engineer but I know that insulting your market and a community of your potential customers who are browsing for a solution isn't a tactic taught in marketing, business, or public relations classes. It seems like poor business practice to insult anyone on behalf of your company. I was thankful for what TRU3D was warning us about based on experience but when their response became insulting I couldn't believe it. Imagine if Sony responded to a group of risk taking modders with that type of personal and condescending tone. I understand that he is trying to warn us of the dangers but responding that way is just wrong. I for one am glad that there are people like PlumB In this community letting people know how he did it even though he took that risk. I can't believe TRU3Ds can say that this forum will not affect their sales. I have an honours business administration degree and I concentrated in marketing and I'm shocked that a company would address anyone this way. I for one will not ever be buying a single product from Tru3D and I know several people who bought 3d ready samsung dlps based on my recommendation years ago and I will definitely not be telling them about Tru3D either. When a company believes that insulting the few or treating them badly will not affect their big picture sales numbers then that company doesn't deserve any customers at all.

I'm not sure what AVS considers an attack post, but I would surely respond the same way to any company if they addressed the community that way, whether it be the local pizza shop or Samsung itself. Modifying someone elses product might be bad business practice, but it's not as bad of a business practice as insulting a community filled with users in your target market.

Thank you PlumB, and I look forward to seeing if anyone can actually figure out how to reprogram the adapter itself.
post #382 of 1126
Thank you so much to plumB and everyone who contribute to this thread.

As an HL61A750 owner I'm in debt to plumB and others on here (with the exception of some desperate vendor who tries to push its merchandise, perhaps?) who provide and support a way of using the Mits adapter for Samsung DLP with a low cost and applicable method.

One question though, before I make the jump: I'm using Nvidia 3DVision/Driver to play games in 3D and just wonder what is the effect after the Samsung flashed with Mits EDID, will it continue to work with Nvidia 3D Vision as before with only change as the Samsung now would show as Mits under display name? Anyone with this usage combo please share.

(I don't really care what the Samsung will show up as under control panel, what matters is whether it still works with Nvidia 3DVision usage on games and at the same time works with PS3 3D + Cable/Satellite 3D + Blueray 3D after gettting flashed.)

EDIT: oops, missing the question mark (?) on the topic.

EDIT2: I've already have 2 pairs of Nvidia shutter glasses, can they be used with this Mits. fix?
post #383 of 1126
HL72A650 confirmed working!

Looks great with DirecTV HR21-100 and Viewsonic PGD-150 glasses.

Thank again plumB.
post #384 of 1126
LOL. Apparently, the person who owns the Tru3d account forgot to take their medicine yesterday... Check out this post from another thread. I'm not sure what happened with Tru3d, but they're obviously frustrated... It sounds like their new and improved solution is actually derived from or a copy of PlumB's method. I just don't understand how flaming potential customers in an open forum is good for their bottom line. Guess I need to go to whatever college they have in St. Petersburg, FL. Assuming that their marketing department has anything more than a high school diploma.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TRU3D007 View Post

It's TRU3D by the way, not true 3d.

I do not believe your tone to be offensive or striking, but actually humorous. It does open up a topic though...

When you use HOAX, disgruntled and employee in one sentance you should expect something interesting out of it.

You would be amazed at how many Samsung customers that are not TRU3D customers prevent TRU3D customers from getting quick answers.

That would be a self-sustained blow to Samsung customers.

We do not HOAX and we do not have any dis-gruntled employees. We have actually maintained all employees wonderfully through the excessive burdon of supporting well over 1 million disgruntled samsung DLP customers at a high expense that are usually already 90% fed up before they even reach our door-step or find our website.



Quick point to everyone - call us with a positive attitude and we'll give you all the time and attention in the world. Call us cursing and screaming about Samsung before ever making a purchase with us and you will properly get a dial tone and denied business.

Simply put, when people call us with a smile they get VIP treatment.

We absolutely love and appreciate all of our positive customers that treat our staff with courtesy and respect! They usually always get special treatment and attention in any way we can provide it.

a 7 digit-sized stranded consumer base is a mess to manage, bottom line and the general attitude of the Samsung DLP consumer does not make things any easier for us.

We have had a few employees get frustrated at times.

Sometimes it seems as difficult to rescue a drowning consumer as it is a man drowning in water.

Most employee frustration has often been due to people that have not placed any orders with us hassling us about their Samsung DLP and the price of accessories, lack of support received by samsung...on and on for 45 minutes as if our decision to provide an aftermarket accessory designated us as the Samsung complaint department just to say they'll think about it. We call these the Sammy vent.

You would be amazed at what we've had to deal with in this product offering.

Most DLP owners bought their DLP because it was the best dollar value for screen size, IE affordable, not because of any high end features. There was an extremely small percentage of Samsung DLP owners using them for 3D at the time they were discontinued when you examine the sheer volume of over 3 million 3D capable DLPs shipped from 2006-2009. The original DLP product catered to the 'low-end', entry mass market at volume. These customers already had tight pockets and high value desires. the present market temperment and economy doesn't help us much in dealing with this customer base.

Samsung is a massive manufacturer that deals in very high volumes. Samsung realizes that the same person that bought their DLP because it was big and affordable, will probably still buy another samsung because they are the best features for the cheapest price...few consumers actually change shopping habits during their lifetime. It's less about brand loyalty and more about volume management to Samsung. Most Samsung TV customers will actually return to them even if not satified with the previous purchase due to Samsung's built in market.

The general rule, we're here to help get you going in 3D. We're not here to play martial arts instructor, football coach or phychiatrist so if you didn't buy anything from us and don't intend on it - DON'T email to complain about Samsung DLPs email to ask questions regarding purchases from TRU3D or support for purchases only please.

We have grown a talent for spotting good vs completely dis-tempered customers very quickly though....that's good, I guess.

The samsung complaint department is still open, so please call them to complain about your orignal Samsung DLP Purchase and the need for an adapter , only call or email TRU3D to get support with a TRU3D purchase.
post #385 of 1126
Thank you PlumB and everyone on this thread.

I'm adding my experiance with HL56A650, nothing new just adding my specs and troubles.

Solution used: Desktop computer hooked up via DVI<->HDMI dongle ($1.49) MSI nVidia 8800GT to the TV with the 3 feet HDMI cable included with Mits 3D kit.

Instead of turning on the tv and then off, I went stright to the service menu via Mute-1-8-2-Power

Navigated to the EDID on/off area until it was a single menu option in the corner of my screen.

Here is where my setup caused problems and I had to do some un-proven dance.
Clicked on update EDID for powerstrip, it said it couldn't find EDID information, do I want to scan the bus? I said no. Select update EDID from the drop menu again, it asks the same question, I said no. Finally on the 3rd attempt, I said "yes". Error screen pops up, no worries, I repeat the process, and whola it finds it on Bus#2 and asks me if I want to update?
I switched my TV EDID menu from "off" to "on".
Selected "yes" and pointed it to a text file of the new EDID base information listed on page 1.

If I didn't do the whole "no, no, yes, no, no, yes, yes" my computer would hang and become unresponsive. Odd I know,
I know this, because for the extended block, I wasn't able to flash without following the madness listed above after that method it prompted "successful".

Here is my setup:
(PS3+Xbox360+PC) -> Denon AVR-591 -> Mits 3D adapter -> TV.

Everything appears to be working great, the real test was the PS3 and it has passed.
I'm ready for CoD: Black Ops

One side note/annoyance, my Denon used to show an on-screen volume status, whenever I raised or lowered it. This is now gone, I'm guessing the 3D adapter is getting in the way. Since it has its own on screen information to display.
post #386 of 1126
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinz13 View Post

One side note/annoyance, my Denon used to show an on-screen volume status, whenever I raised or lowered it. This is now gone, I'm guessing the 3D adapter is getting in the way. Since it has its own on screen information to display.

I've been considering fixing this by purchasing a 4x2 HDMI switch.. and programming my Harmony remote to have a 3d mode... Basically, all non 3d content will come through HDMI2 (and bypass the 3da1), when I click a 3d activity, it will use HDMI3 and go through the 3da1.. sounds good in theory at least!

Here's the switch I'm planning on purchasing:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

I believe this would also fix your annoyance.
post #387 of 1126
Quote:


and programming my Harmony remote to have a 3d mode... Basically, all non 3d content will come through HDMI2 (and bypass the 3da1), when I click a 3d activity, it will use HDMI3 and go through the 3da1

Exactly what I will be doing with my Harmony 880.

To update my situation: I have borrowed both a VGA to DVI adapter as well as another laptop with HDMI out. I hope to report success later tonight...

Let's keep those positive reports coming!
post #388 of 1126
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by distant30 View Post

One question though, before I make the jump: I'm using Nvidia 3DVision/Driver to play games in 3D and just wonder what is the effect after the Samsung flashed with Mits EDID, will it continue to work with Nvidia 3D Vision as before with only change as the Samsung now would show as Mits under display name? Anyone with this usage combo please share.

I don't have an HTPC but I don't see why it wouldn't still work. It should still output the same 3D checkerboard signal. The only problem would be if it has a video driver for the mits that maybe wouldn't work well with the Samsung. None of the timings or anything else in the EDID is being changed, only the PnP ID. If it doesn't work you can always change it back, I believe your model is one of the ones that has the ability to restore the EDID without having to reflash with powerstrip.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NetCoder View Post

LOL. Apparently, the person who owns the Tru3d account forgot to take their medicine yesterday... Check out this post from another thread. I'm not sure what happened with Tru3d, but they're obviously frustrated... It sounds like their new and improved solution is actually derived from or a copy of PlumB's method. I just don't understand how flaming potential customers in an open forum is good for their bottom line. Guess I need to go to whatever college they have in St. Petersburg, FL. Assuming that their marketing department has anything more than a high school diploma.

They posted on 4 or 5 threads yesterday, pretty much anything that mentions the 3DA-1 and Samsung.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinz13 View Post

One side note/annoyance, my Denon used to show an on-screen volume status, whenever I raised or lowered it. This is now gone, I'm guessing the 3D adapter is getting in the way. Since it has its own on screen information to display.

That's kind of strange, does it still show the volume status on HDMI 3 if the 3DA-1 is not in the mix? Is it a 1.4 3D ready AVR, are you able to get surround sound to the Denon over HDMI? Just curious, I know the people using the old Gefen after the 3DA-1 were only getting 2.0 audio to their receivers.

Forgot to mention, since you had some trouble with the flash you might want to check with moninfo and make sure the EDID in HDMI 3 matches exactly the updated one you used to flash.
post #389 of 1126
Quote:


They posted on 4 or 5 threads yesterday, pretty much anything that mentions the 3DA-1 and Samsung.

A couple of days ago, before that guy came on this thread and attacked PlumB and the rest of us, I was gonna make a comment on this thread that the post count on the other thread was way down from where it had been a few days/weeks earlier. You may draw your own conclusions from that, but it certainly means something to me.

Nevertheless, I think some of the comments made by faithful thread followers here are right on the money.

I don't blame Tru3D from marketing such hardware. I'm sure there are folks that prefer their method over PlumB's. The marketing methods they use leave something to be desired.

Before I found this thread, I was almost ready to buy the Tru3D solution but the comments from that guy in his own thread made the red flags go up. I procrastinated buying from them and then this thread popped up and rest, as they say, is history.

Thanks PlumB
post #390 of 1126
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlumB View Post

That's kind of strange, does it still show the volume status on HDMI 3 if the 3DA-1 is not in the mix? Is it a 1.4 3D ready AVR, are you able to get surround sound to the Denon over HDMI? Just curious, I know the people using the old Gefen after the 3DA-1 were only getting 2.0 audio to their receivers.

Forgot to mention, since you had some trouble with the flash you might want to check with moninfo and make sure the EDID in HDMI 3 matches exactly the updated one you used to flash.

My AVR is HDMI 1.4a compatible and shows the volume status on HDMI3 without 3DA-1 in the mix. This is the first recevier (I went through 4 before settling on this one) that works with Samsung's AnyConnect over HDMI. So if I were to raise the volume using the samsung remote it works, but the whole AnyConnect system is buggy. I'm going to try and disable it, see what happens.
The AnyConnect system has its own overlays, so all 3 of my devices are fighting with each other, none of them are polished to perfection so its a mess

Thank you for the HDMI switch is a idea, NetCoder. I'm definitely going to look into it, I finally have a use for my harmony again Any connect kind of spoiled the need for a universal remote for a while.

I checked moninfo and sure enough it has flashed correctly, I couldn't see the extended information though, but that was something that I could never pull up even on the stock EDID.
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