3D on Samsung 1080p DLP with Mitsubishi 3DA-1 and no Gefen - Page 28

This prolly isn't the right thread for this but, bugger off. In the several months I've had the 3DA-1, I've had 2 occasions where the screen would freeze. After a few moments of WTF and power cycling various components I realized the issue was a locked 3DA-1. The screen would just freeze while the music played on, so to speak. A simple power cycle of the 3DA-1 solves the problem. Yesterday was the second occasion. Normally, the 3DA-1 just sits there with no attention required. I'm not complaining, and I'm not crying to Mitsubishi for repairs or replacement. I'm just registering my issue on this forum and as a heads up to anyone in case they experience the same.

I've had this happen a 2 or 3 times in the last few weeks, always after my TiVo has gone through multiple resolution changes rapidly. I.e., I hit play, change my mind and hit the TiVo button, so it goes 720P (TiVo menu resolution) to 480i or 1080i or what ever, then back... and I'll get a stuck screen. Not a big deal, I just hit the Live TV button which almost always will be something other than 720P, forcing it to re-sync again, and all is well.

Thanks plumb will try it this weekend

I just finished making my VGA-HDMI cable when I realized there is no ground return for the SCL and SDA signal lines. According to the spec, this is on HDMI Pin #17, but the PlumB's schematic doesn't show this pin connected to Pin #10, its counterpart on the VGA connector. How about the shields on the VGA and HDMI cables? Should they be connected as well?

Update 1: I decided to go ahead and build the cable the way I felt was best; i.e. connect HDMI, Pin #17 to VGA, Pin #10 (tapping in to, not breaking). I'm still waiting for my Powerstrip registration, but I did tested the cable by using Moninfo to read the EDID of the Samsung and it worked perfectly even at a 21' (6.4M) cable length (I2C is very robust and I was curious about the 1.5ft cable length someone suggested in this tread.)

Update 2: Well, not exactly 'perfectly'. I just noticed that it didn't bring down the Extension Block. Oh well, back to the drawing board...

For me, it wasn't much cost or hassle. About $200 total for the adapter and a pair of glasses.

The 3D on videos is very good. So far, I've seen no crosstalk. Games are also good, but not perfect. Under certain circumstances, quick action will result in flickering objects, especially thin, high contrast objects. For example, the cockpit view in GT5 can be rough on the eyes, because the white piping on the gloves will flicker badly when you move the wheel quickly.

Overall, I'd say I'm very happy with it.

Well, since the PS3 has been rooted your Linux will be back soon enough. Thanks for all of your hard work on this issue.

My cables and adapters are on their way so I am getting all the software and doing all the final research. Quick newbie question:

Why is there three sets of codes on page one?
Updated EDID: yada yada
Updated extension block: yada yada
1080p 24Hz updated ext block: yada yada

I see that you need to flash the EDID followed by the extension block, but where does that third file come into play?

Thanks

Wow! You're seeing three and I can get only one (the EDID). Are you using a laptop? DVI-to-HDMI or VGA-to-HDMI cable?

PlumB, did you get you 1080p 24hz message to go away?

If I read the documentation correctly, I only need to modify the EDID block. I don't do anything to the Extension Block... Correct? If this is the case, does it really matter that MonInfo isn't displaying it? I've modified my EDID and checked it with MonInfo. Everything seems OK. I can flash the EDID block and be done with it, or keep spinning my wheels trying to read the Extension Block.

Well, come to think of it, I guess you'd want to download it is so that you can restore it if necessay. Correct?

I am talking about the code on page one of this thread where they list everything you need. I haven't hooked up my laptop to the TV yet, still waiting on my adapters and cables.

I finally got my 3DA-1 in, along with the glasses I ordered from Ultimate3dHeaven. Was able to get both the PS3 and my TW cable box to output in 3D. The only issue I'm having with the PS3 is getting the games to go into 3D. I had downloaded the MotorStorm demo to check it out but it won't actually allow me to play in 3d. I watch the 3DA when loading the demo and it looks like it is trying to switch into 3d mode but finally just gives up. I was able to view some 3D trailers and demos from Vudu on the PS3 without any problems. The TW cable box was a breeze to setup with no issues there. A note on the 3D glasses; the X-force emitter glasses were pretty much worthless. I had to be within a few feet of the emitter for them to work at all. The UltraClear DLP Link glasses worked great, no problems at all with sync. It looks like I'll be returning the X-force and getting some more UltraClears. Although my oldest daughter (17) is disappointed that the "daft punk" as she calls them are going away.

Well this is frustrating I've tried a laptop with a modified VGA/HDMI cable, and two desktops with a DVI-to-HDMI cable, and I still can only get the EDID block. I've scanned through this thread and tried the various 'fixes' for this problem, but nothing has worked. So it is now down to just going with the EDID block, or giving up all together. All of a sudden I have a bad feeling about all this, but I've already purchased the 3DA-1 and have two pairs of glasses. Giving up doesn't seem like a viable option, all things considered.

Moving on, my TV P&P ID: SAM02AB doesn't have a 'DDC Protection' or 'EDID ON/OFF' option. Instead it has a 'EEPROM WP ON/OFF', which is currently set to 'ON'. I assume that is the setting I want to change... correct?

Yes, I updated the EDID, but only in the computer to test it with MonInfo. I have not burned the new EDID into the TV. Below is the stock and modified EEID's. BTW, I have my EDID PIN, but don't know where to enter it.

======== Stock =========

Monitor
Model name............... SAMSUNG
Windows description...... Plug and Play Monitor
Manufacturer............. Samsung
Plug and Play ID......... SAM02AB
Serial number............ n/a
Manufacture date......... 2006, ISO week 48
-------------------------
EDID revision............ 1.3
Input signal type........ Analog 0.700,0.000 (0.7V p-p)
Sync input support....... Separate, Composite
Display type............. RGB color
Screen size.............. 1290 x 730 mm (58.4 in)
Power management......... Not supported
Extension blocs.......... None
-------------------------
DDC/CI................... n/a

Color characteristics
Default color space...... Non-sRGB
Display gamma............ 2.20
Red chromaticity......... Rx 0.640 - Ry 0.340
Green chromaticity....... Gx 0.300 - Gy 0.620
Blue chromaticity........ Bx 0.150 - By 0.060
White point (default).... Wx 0.291 - Wy 0.300
Additional descriptors... None

Timing characteristics
Horizontal scan range.... 30-81kHz
Vertical scan range...... 60-75Hz
Video bandwidth.......... 140MHz
CVT standard............. Not supported
GTF standard............. Not supported
Additional descriptors... None
Preferred timing......... Yes
Native/preferred timing.. 1920x1080p at 60Hz (16:9)
Modeline............... "1920x1080" 138.500 1920 1968 2000 2080 1080 1083 1088 1111 +hsync -vsync
Detailed timing #1....... 1280x1024p at 60Hz (16:9)
Modeline............... "1280x1024" 108.000 1280 1328 1440 1688 1024 1025 1028 1066 +hsync +vsync

Standard timings supported
720 x 400p at 70Hz - IBM VGA
640 x 480p at 60Hz - IBM VGA
640 x 480p at 72Hz - VESA
640 x 480p at 75Hz - VESA
800 x 600p at 60Hz - VESA
800 x 600p at 72Hz - VESA
800 x 600p at 75Hz - VESA
1024 x 768p at 60Hz - VESA
1024 x 768p at 70Hz - VESA
1024 x 768p at 75Hz - VESA
1280 x 1024p at 75Hz - VESA
1280 x 1024p at 60Hz - VESA STD
1280 x 960p at 60Hz - VESA STD
1152 x 864p at 75Hz - VESA STD

Report information
Date generated........... 1/19/2011
Software revision........ 2.56.0.872
Data source.............. Registry
Operating system......... 5.1.2600.2.Service Pack 3

Raw data
00,FF,FF,FF,FF,FF,FF,00,4C,2D,AB,02,00,00,00,00,30,10,01,03, 6C,81,49,78,0A,CF,9B,A3,57,4C,9E,26,
0F,4A,4C,AD,CF,00,81,80,81,40,71,4F,01,01,01,01,01,01,01,01, 01,01,1A,36,80,A0,70,38,1F,40,30,20,
35,00,09,D5,52,00,00,1A,30,2A,00,98,51,00,2A,40,30,70,13,00, 09,D5,52,00,00,1E,00,00,00,FC,00,53,
41,4D,53,55,4E,47,0A,20,20,20,20,20,00,00,00,FD,00,3C,4B,1E, 51,0E,00,0A,20,20,20,20,20,20,00,40


========== Modified ===========


Monitor
Model name............... SAMSUNG
Manufacturer............. Mitsubishi
Plug and Play ID......... MEL31C8
Serial number............ n/a
Manufacture date......... 2006, ISO week 48
-------------------------
EDID revision............ 1.3
Input signal type........ Analog 0.700,0.000 (0.7V p-p)
Sync input support....... Separate, Composite
Display type............. RGB color
Screen size.............. 1290 x 730 mm (58.4 in)
Power management......... Not supported
Extension blocs.......... None
-------------------------
DDC/CI................... n/a

Color characteristics
Default color space...... Non-sRGB
Display gamma............ 2.20
Red chromaticity......... Rx 0.640 - Ry 0.340
Green chromaticity....... Gx 0.300 - Gy 0.620
Blue chromaticity........ Bx 0.150 - By 0.060
White point (default).... Wx 0.291 - Wy 0.300
Additional descriptors... None

Timing characteristics
Horizontal scan range.... 30-81kHz
Vertical scan range...... 60-75Hz
Video bandwidth.......... 140MHz
CVT standard............. Not supported
GTF standard............. Not supported
Additional descriptors... None
Preferred timing......... Yes
Native/preferred timing.. 1920x1080p at 60Hz (16:9)
Modeline............... "1920x1080" 138.500 1920 1968 2000 2080 1080 1083 1088 1111 +hsync -vsync
Detailed timing #1....... 1280x1024p at 60Hz (16:9)
Modeline............... "1280x1024" 108.000 1280 1328 1440 1688 1024 1025 1028 1066 +hsync +vsync

Standard timings supported
720 x 400p at 70Hz - IBM VGA
640 x 480p at 60Hz - IBM VGA
640 x 480p at 72Hz - VESA
640 x 480p at 75Hz - VESA
800 x 600p at 60Hz - VESA
800 x 600p at 72Hz - VESA
800 x 600p at 75Hz - VESA
1024 x 768p at 60Hz - VESA
1024 x 768p at 70Hz - VESA
1024 x 768p at 75Hz - VESA
1280 x 1024p at 75Hz - VESA
1280 x 1024p at 60Hz - VESA STD
1280 x 960p at 60Hz - VESA STD
1152 x 864p at 75Hz - VESA STD

Report information
Date generated........... 1/20/2011
Software revision........ 2.56.0.872
Data source.............. File
Operating system......... 5.1.2600.2.Service Pack 3

Raw data
00,FF,FF,FF,FF,FF,FF,00,34,AC,C8,31,00,00,00,00,30,10,01,03, 6C,81,49,78,0A,CF,9B,A3,57,4C,9E,26,
0F,4A,4C,AD,CF,00,81,80,81,40,71,4F,01,01,01,01,01,01,01,01, 01,01,1A,36,80,A0,70,38,1F,40,30,20,
35,00,09,D5,52,00,00,1A,30,2A,00,98,51,00,2A,40,30,70,13,00, 09,D5,52,00,00,1E,00,00,00,FC,00,53,
41,4D,53,55,4E,47,0A,20,20,20,20,20,00,00,00,FD,00,3C,4B,1E, 51,0E,00,0A,20,20,20,20,20,20,00,8D

Well this is embarrassing. It would appear I cut and spliced the wrong signal pair. Not sure why I was getting the same results using the DVI-to-HDMI cable, but I think I'll fix my cable before worrying about that. Very strange, I did several SOT's and the cable looked perfect. I'm guessing I messed up on the HDMI connector pin numbering. Anyway, obviously the modified EDID is wrong as well ( I generated that using a hex editor on the bin file, then feeding that back into MonInfo.) I've got to go for now, but will fix the cable and post the 'correct' EDID info later today. Sorry about that. Getting (make that got) old.

Yea I did that and the 3D options showed up in PS3 settings. I think I may delete and re-download the demo. I had downloaded and installed the game prior to getting all the 3D stuff hooked up. I'm thinking maybe since it didn't see it on the initial install it is not recognizing it now. Like I mentioned briefly before when selecting the game it looks like it wants to go into 3D mode (the light turns on briefly on the 3DA, flickers once or twice then shuts off). The other thing of note is that it comes up reduced screen as 720, not 1080.

So i have an HLT6187S, that I've reprogrammed HDMI 3 to look like a Mitsubishi tv.

I know that i need to buy:
Mitsubishi 3DA-1 3D Adapter Pack

I was looking for options to get up to 4 glasses. (or maybe more). So i was thinking about buying used or new previously owned:

Samsung SSG-P2100S/ZA Shrek 3D Starter Kit, Black
Samsung SSG-P2100X/ZA (IMAX/Dragon) 3D Starter Kit, Black
Samsung 3D Starter Kit SSG-P2100T (Monsters vs Aliens)

The other option is the Xpand 103 glasses..

Thoughts? Or is there anything else that i need to buy? or concerns? (I have a PS3 that i am going to use to play the movies)

Did you download the actual 3D demo or the regular demo? There are two completely different and separate demos available for this game. The 3D demo will ask you on the main title screen if you want to play the game in normal mode (which will run at 720p) or in 3D mode.

To get the 3D demo, go to the PS Store and select demos. Then, go to the "3D Demos" folder. This is where you'll find the demo for Motorstorm in 3D and other 3D demos. The Motorstorm 3D demo will not be in the regular Demos section.

I downloaded the 3D demo. Whenever I tried to start it up the play in 3d option was always grayed out. I ended up deleting it, downloading and installing it again. This time it gave me the play in 3D option. Obviously you must have all the necessary 3D hardware in place when you install the download games/demos.

I forget the specs on the Xpand 103's, whether they're IR or DLP-Link, and different people have different opinions of them (both good and bad) but I won't get into that because I haven't actually tried any of the Xpand glasses myself yet.

Just in case you don't realize this...
The Mitsubishi 3DA-1 Adapter kit ($99 retail) is sold as an individual item, or it also comes included in the Mitsubishi 3DC-1000 Starter Kit with the IR Emitter and 2 pairs of the same glasses that come in the Samsung Shrek/Dragon/Monsters/etc starter kits.
If you just buy the $99 3DA-1 package that comes in a very pretty retail box by itself for that price it does NOT include an emitter, so the glasses packs you listed would be totally useless until you get a compatible emitter to make them operate with the TV.

The normal retail list price for the full and complete Mitsubishi 3D-Ready DLP HDTV Starter kit, which is called the 3DC-1000 kit, is rediculously high and many vendors are trying to get quite a lot for it but you can often find it brand new from reputable vendors on ebay and amazon for not much over $300 new and even less used which simply can't be beat for what's included and you can't come anywhere close to as cheap as that really low price by trying to buy all the included stuff separately, especially for the high quality items you get that are all included in that kit!
You get 2 pairs of the SSG-P2100AB glasses, the IR Emitter that your TV will need to run the sync signal out to the glasses, and the 3DA-1 Format Adapter unit itself, and all the cables you need to connect everything to your TV, and I believe it also comes with a 3D Disney Sampler/Demo disc too. Do the math and you'll see what I mean about how you just can't beat it at the much less than retail prices from some vendors.

All of those glasses packs you listed will work on your TV once you have the emitter that is included with the 3DC-1000 kit as they're the same glasses as the ones in the 3DC-1000 kit with the other brand name on them instead...
The Shrek kit which has 2 pairs of those same glasses and the 3 Shrek movies and a voucher for the fourth can currently be found for a little more or even less than $200 at random (brand new!) which is a steal for the glasses alone AND it comes with THREE movies and gets you a FOURTH movie too which is awesome if you like Shrek... :/

If you're looking for the cheapest way to get into 3D with a DLP TV rather than the best overall performance/quality/results, you "can" skip the emitter and nice SSG glasses and just buy the $99 3DA-1 adapter alone and then get the cheap DLP-Link type glasses instead of IR glasses (the SSG's are the IR type) if you have a DLP TV and save the cost of an emitter, and the prices on the bargain DLP-Link glasses (and same brand of bargain IR glasses) are well below $100 and seem to work fairly well for the price.

PERSONALLY I haven't tried any DLP-Link glasses at all (even though I have a DLP TV which can do both IR AND DLP-Link) so I can't state for sure how well they do or don't work BUT I couldn't be happier with the results I've gotten from the 3DC-1000 kit and SSG glasses and have not experienced ANY picture problems or sync problems either, both of which are often described with the DLP-Link glasses...
I Even bought the cheap brand of IR glasses to compare and they also worked well but at the price of the 3DC-1000 kit and even the 2 pairs of SSG's with the Shrek movies included, given the choice I prefer the SSG's for a little more money but that's just MY choice...

There are also really cheap IR glasses kits out there with their own non-compatible (proprietary) emitter that come bundled with 2, 3, or 4 pairs with their proprietary emitter for like $100 - $140 total and yes they will give you a 3D experience but their emitter won't run the SSG glasses or most other brands either and they just don't compare to today's glasses technology and the results you end up with from them are exactly what you paid for and no better...

Plus I can take my SSG glasses to all my friends' houses who just got brand new 2010 and all new 2011 model Samsung and Mitsubishi 3D TV's and they can bring their glasses to my house to watch 3D on my 3 year old Samsung DLP TV and they'll all work together, whereas the DLP-Link glasses won't work with their new LED/LCD and Plasma Samsung 3D TV's.

But it all comes down to personal preferences and budget...
Believe it or not there ARE even more expensive glasses than the SSG's and they supposedly work even better but they cost more than twice what the SSG's retail for per pair so since I'm totally happy with the SSG's performance on my TV I'm not ready to take that step for those "even better" glasses yet myself.

I didn't realize the 3DA-1 didn't come with the IR emitter.. so obviously i should just buy the total package.. then if i wanted extra glasses buy the shrek package.. my wife is a sucker for those movies so that should be an easy sell..

If you have a Fry's Electronics near your location, they usually have the Mitsubishi starter kit (that comes with the 3DA-1, emitter, and 2 pairs of SSG2100 glasses) for $249.99 (regular $399). The open box price for this set is $220 at my local Fry's, even when the starter kit isn't on sale...I've never seen it more than $299 in the store, though.

For a second set of glasses, I bought the Samsung Shrek 3D starter kit for $190 on eBay. It comes with 2 additional pairs of the SSG2100 glasses which are great (comfortable and excellent build quality).

If you're interested, I bought my Shrek kit from "Electro_Zone" on eBay:
http://stores.ebay.com/electrozone1/...=p4634.c0.m322

They have tons of the Shrek kits which go for anywhere between $160-$200 in their auctions (several ending within the hour). They also have a Shrek 3D kit as a Buy it Now option for $197.95 if you don't want to mess with the auction and don't mind paying just a few dollars more than what you might would have:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Samsung-SSG-P210...item4155fe1684

It's free shipping on all their stuff which makes it even better! The kits are all brand new and never opened (they got a surplus of them in with Samsung TVs and decided to sell them individually). You can't beat getting a $499 kit for <$200...especially when you get FOUR BluRay3D movies that you can sell on eBay separately for the going rate of $80 a piece! IF you're not into Shrek, that is...the 3D quality in all 4 movies is really excellent, though.

I know I probably sound like a spokesperson for them, but I'm not...I just had a very good buying experience and can't pass up the chance on helping someone else get a good deal

They also ship fast...I ordered mine on a Tuesday night and had it in my hands Saturday morning.

I checked the cable again and it is right, The SCL and SDA lines go from the computer's VGA port to the appropriate leads on hdmi connector. They are not connected to the SCL and SCA lines on the VGA connector that goes to the TV. It doesn't matter how many times I run MonInfo, I am still getting the VGA port on the TV and am getting nothing from the hdmi port, either with my cable or the using an off-the-shelf DVI-to-hdmi cable. I no longer connect anything to the TV's VGA connector. I'm virtually certain that the cable I made is wired correctly, but even if I did mess up, it doesn't explain why the same thing is happening with the DVI-hdmi cable. Yes, I am reading the base block data and am getting nothing from the extension block. It appears that at some earlier stage of the game when I was connected to the TV's VGA port, MonInfo latched onto the port EDID data and it simply isn't reading the hdmi port, even though it is the only one connected to the computer. BTW, I am still unclear as to what the EDID PIN is used for.