3D on Samsung 1080p DLP with Mitsubishi 3DA-1 and no Gefen - Page 29

28 pages in and this thread continues to get better and better.

Great info zukikat! That really added some new information into the mix, for me at least, regarding on what to buy once I get my HDMI EDID flashed next week.

Can I set up the PS3 to make sure it will work before I do all the EDID flashing stuff? Do I just connect the PS3 to my HDMI 3 input and then go into the display settings and look for 1080i 3D? I know I could try this first without asking but I'm at work and getting really excited about how close I am to finally getting the 3D working on my set!!!

The PS3 isn't going to recognize your TV as being 3D until AFTER you flash the EDID and hook it up via the 3DA-1 adapter.

Once you flash the EDID and hook your PS3 up through the 3DA-1, you'll go into display settings and select auto configure...it should then say 1080p 3D supported and ask you to select your screen size for 3D.

I am up and running with no issues. I was just curious if your issue went away or if you had to resolve it with the updated extension block....

PlumB:
Well I final got the TV EDID programmed, the Mit's 3DA-1 is happy, switching between modes as it should. I'll document the problems I had in another post. For now, please note, my 6189 hdmi3 has a PandP ID = SAM02AC, as per your documentation. Thanks for your excellent instructions and infinite patients.

Did you run the PS3 Display's auto setup again after flashing your set's EDID and plugging the PS3 into the 3DA-1?

I had forgotten to do that. I did that and now all is well. Quite a relief having this job done. I was pleased to see that the 3DA-1 detected 2D vs. 3D and the 3D format and switched modes automatically. It would have been nice if the TV would detect the 3D stream and automatically switch to 3D mode, but I guess you can't have everything. All I've looked at so far are the free 3D trailers from Vudu. While the 3D is clearly working, the effect is subtler than I've been seeing from the Panasonic DMP-100 playing 3DBR disks in Crosshatch mode without the 3DA-1 inserted in the signal path. When time permits, I'll try putting the DMP-100 in SbS mode and playing through the 3DA-1. I'll also try these same disks in the PS3.

Glad you got it working!

Do note that the 3D from Vudu should be considered nothing more than a "quick fix" type BONUS to actual 3D BluRay. The quality is seriously lacking in the Vudu 3D, but what do you expect from a streaming source?

You're likely going to have the exact opposite reaction as me. The first 3D I saw on my set was several BluRay3D movies. After seeing them, and then going to watch some Vudu3D content, I immediately thought Vudu looked like crap by comparison (which it does).

Since you saw Vudu3D first, you're going to be in for a real treat once you see an actual BluRay3D!! It should look exactly the same as what you've seen using your Panasonic.

I don't have DirecTV (yet) and am using your 1st extension block. For future reference, if I do get DirecTV and have the 24Hz problem, do I need to reset the 3DA-1 after flashing your 24Hz Ext. Blk. I don't have it in front of me, but I seem to remember that, under certain circumstances, it was necessary to reset the 3DA-1 by temporarily connecting to a different hdmi port on the TV.

I tried playing some Youtube O/U 3D videos on a PS3 tonight with mixed results. The 3DA-1 didn't detect the 3D, but if I put it in this mode using the remote, it was able to handle the O/U-to-checkerboard conversion. My problem was my DLP sync'd glasses kept switching in an out of 3D mode every few seconds. Unfortunately I don't have a pair of emitter sync's glasses to try. Anyone had better luck playing Youtube 3D?

Got my adapters in the mail today (VGA>DVI>HDMI) - tomorrow I'll attempt the big EDID flash. My biggest concern is going into the service menu. I'm pretty excited right now, and would like to once again that you all for the hard work in making this possible.

EDIT - EDID FLASHED!!!!
Extension block too...

Time to buy the adapter, glasses, and a game/movie for the PS3.
AWESOME!!!!!!!!

Just read ALL of the listed steps, ESPECIALLY the steps for how to navigate around in your particular TV's service menu from your remote because it's NOT stratight-forward and you can easily select or change things without intending to by assuming you know which buttons should do what for moving around in that menu (but don't let that scare you, just be careful and don't "assume" anything!), then just follow the listed steps to enter the menu and look for the applicable menu section as described for your model of TV, and then once you've found the section pertaining to EDID Write protection (whatever it may be called for your TV) switch its' setting to the opposite of whatever it's set to when you find it (ON to OFF or OFF to ON) and then STAY IN the service menu the whole time and just look through it to what's showing on the TV's screen behind it from the PC to do the powerstrip process.
I switched the setting, exited the service menu, then tried powerstrip and kept getting an error that suggested a cable length problem when there wasn't actually anything wrong with the cable I was using whatsoever.
When I got the error several times in a row I decided to stop trying and went back into the service menu to switch that setting back, thinking I'd just give up for a while and try again later, but instead I found that the setting was already switched back on its' own which apparently happens automatically (at least on my A650 "6-Series" Samsung DLP) whenever the user exits the service menu and that was exactly why it hadn't worked for me, doh! Essentially, exitiing the service menu put the EDID Write Protection back in place so powerstrip couldn't write the info and was giving a generic failure error message that was its' equivalent of "check the cable or use a different one and try again" as a result (a.k.a. "is it plugged in?" for all you tech guys... ).

Also you won't see any apparent difference stated by powerstrip as you do the Update EDID steps twice but be sure and do them TWICE exactly as stated in the OP's instructions even though nothing shows up different in the two steps other than which of the two files you choose for the two times you do it, the first time you'll point powerstrip to the main block file and then the second time point it to the extended block file, both of which you created from the two Mitsu modified EDID data blocks listed for your TV in the OP. You must do both steps just to be sure you get the FULL EDID updated as is strongly recommended by PlumB even though it may appear to mostly work with just the first half of the EDID updated which isn't the right way to do this and can cause other compatibility and functionality problems that I'm not sure the details of!

It sounds complicated but it's really not hard once you get the PC working with the TV's HDMI port.

I don't know if PC resolution makes a difference but I'd suggest setting the PC to 1920x1080@60hz before you begin just to be safe, or maybe the ____x720 equivalent size/resolution in your windows display settings.

Wow truly geeky and another way to get this done. Props! I have not taken the plunge yet. Just using my Panny 350 and 100 to play (EZPZ). Need to update my PC software and give 3D playback and gaming a shot.

To take the geekness one step further, why not update some CD/DVD bootable distro with the tools with instructions. Heck you could even make a menu for people to select the what to flash Yeah, time is hard for me or I'd do it. I've become more of a hey you could versus just doing it. This is why I am still eyeballing tru3d's kit. My uber geek days are over. Lame I know

Maybe someone will take note of what you did via linux and make a distro for everyone, wish it could be me

What I am amazed with is that I am the only one in my circle with 3D. They just laugh at me and my funky glasses...

Cheers!

"If something can go wrong, it probably will" rings true once again! A few 'surprises' that occurred during the programing of my HL6189 (SAM02AC).

1. Having used Mac's for years, the only PC I had was an old Dell D800 ( I borrowed a couple of desktops later on, but that's another story.) I loaded up PowerStrip and MonInfo and, to test that the software would at least work with this hardware, used a stock VGA cable between the laptop and the PC port on the TV. It seemed to work OK, reading the EDID information of the port, so it was time for step #2.

2. I went into the service menu to disable write protect. The instructions said, what ever it is, set it to the opposite. EEPROM WP was set to ON (seemed reasonable) so I turned it off.

3. I built my VGA TO HDMI/VGA cable connected the HDMI portion to the TV's HDMI-3 port and was set to go.

4. I read the EDID info from the port (I thought), but only got the EDID block, no extension block. I figured I must have messed up the cable in some way, took it apart, reassembled it, and again no extension block. Dumb, because previously I had run a continuity test on it and all the interconnects were correct. I repeated this step over and over until the wires in my cable were so fatigued that they broke off. Basically I had to build the cable again.

5. I finally decided I'd had enough and it was either fold my tent, or plunge ahead and take my chances. I decided on the later. I fired up PowerStrip and attempted to program the EDID. It failed! Tried again, failed again. Ahhhh, I thought, must be that #@!%* cable (see above).

6. I then used PowerStrip to read the EDID to see if it could at least do that. even that failed! The error message said that either the header was damaged or there was a checksum error and asked if I wanted to fix it. I hesitated, but figured I had very little to loose, so said Yes'. There was a long pause, then the message that it was unable to repair it.

7. Back to PlumB's excellent instructions this time I happened to notice where it said that 5089 owners were reporting that they found that they had to set the EEPROM WP to ON to get it to write. Since I found it ON the first time I looked, this means that write protect had been off all along. It is a safe assumption that whoever turned it off (by setting it to ON) was also the person that corrupted the data. The set has been in for warranty service twice (I'm on my 3rd Red LED). Why they would have messed with the port is beyond me.

8. Since the EDID was corrupt, MonInfo didn't attempt to read it. When I thought I was reading the port, I was actually seeing the VGA EDID data in the registry. (Thanks to PlumB for discovering that I was reading the wrong port.)

9. I disabled write protect and had PowerStrip repair the EEID data. Worked perfectly. I then ran MonInfo and sure enough, it was now able to read the HDMI-3 port EDID and Extension blocks.The Plug-and-Play ID was one that was documented in PlumB's instructions, so I used his data to reprogram the EDID. The whole process took only a couple of minutes, but as explained above, it took me many hours to get to this point. Murphy's Law in all its glory!

I can only assume I flashed mine correctly. I used Powerstrip to write the EDID two times, the first time I picked the data file for the EDID and then the second time I picked the data file for the extension block. Mono info looked like it said the set was a Mitsibushi when I read the EDID again.

My current configuration is feeding a Panasonic DMP-100 and Sony PS-3 to a Monoprice Model HDX-401TA, 4X1 hdmi switch. The output of the switch goes to the 3DA-1 which is connected to the TV. The nice thing about the HDX-401 is it will pull off a digital audio feed (optical and wired) that can then be sent to the AVR. This works OK, however I would prefer using hdmi audio directly. My old Denon AVR-3808CI is only hdmi 1.3 compliant so I can't use it as a switch. What I would like to do is put a hdmi splitter before the 3DA-1 and pull off hdmi audio that way. i talked to Monoprice about their Model 'LKV-314' 3D ready switch. The tech said he was doubtful it would work, especially since there was already a switch on that line. Suggestions? Comments?

At this point, you don't have many options, if any. You could have sprung for the more expensive BDT300/350 which would have given you 2 HDMI outputs. But that wouldn't have done anything for the PS3. I know the PS3 does have optional analog audio outputs, but I'm not sure if the PS3 will output the HD audio signals on that output. If it does, then that will fix one problem.

Of course, you could invest in a new receiver. I know Pioneer makes a 1.4a(3D) capable 5.1 receiver for less than $200 (VSX-520-k). It does all the appropriate HD codecs if you choose to bitstream the Panasonic. Then you can buy another new receiver next year when 4D comes out and the year after that when 5D comes out......etc.

I was lucky (if you consider it luck). My year old Denon (HDMI 1.3a) got taken out earlier this year by lightning, so I was in the market for a new receiver anyway. I bought the Pioneer and am satisfied. Course it isn't as capable as the Denon but the Pioneer was only one fourth the price. Naturally, the Denon was to replace 2 year old Yamaha (earlier HDMI switcher) which didn't like my newer HDMI stuff. So to end this story, I've bought 3 new receivers in the last 5 years.

A little delayed, but thank you for correcting my "Mode" error. It indeed works better (and I get less headache) with Mode 1 (the correct mode).

Yes, always a day late and a dollar short. Actually the DMP-100 doesn't need the 3DA-1, but with only one 3D enabled port on the TV, I am limited as to what I can do. I tried running the PS3 to the 3DA-1 and then the output of the 3DA-1 to the switch, but the 3DA-1 choked. Interestingly, I can run the DMP-100 to my Denon 3808 and the output of the 3808 to the TV directly or through the 3DA-1 and the 3D works perfectly. Panasonic apparently isn't as picky when it comes to checking 3D compatibility. Unfortunately, if I run the PS3 through the AVR to the 3DA-1, it says I don't have a 3D enabled TV. Actually it can be done, because last night I had both the PS3 and DMP-100 running through the AVR to the 3DA-1 and no complaints from the PS3... 3D worked OK. This morning when I tried, it wouldn't work. Somehow I must have managed to trick the PS3, but I have no idea what I did.

I figured out what was happening. If I connect the PS3 directly to the 3DA-1 and view 3D content of some kind, the PS3 apparently locks that info in until it is powered down. After I do the above, I can disconnect the PS3 from the 3DA-1 and run it through my AVR and am able to watch 3D content on the PS3 from then until the PS3 is powered down. When I power it back up, I must repeat the process if I want to use my PS3 with the AVR again. I had an idea... what if I put a Gefen between the PS3 and the AVR so as far as the PS3 is concerned, it is always connected directly to a Mit's TV or perhaps even programmed to look like a 3DA-1 connected to a Mit's TV. You think that would work? Certainly would be the cheapest way to go. I've tried using digital audio (Toslink) and the sound is terrible compared to what you get from hdmi audio, especially from the DMP-100.

Based upon my experience you will be limited to 2.0 sound through the HDMI to your A/V Receiver.

Problem with putting the Geffen right after the PS3 is the PS3 sees the tv edid and it will only allow audio formats the tv will be compatible with.

What I have discovered with switches or AVR's using 3D devices is that some switch devices dont block the edid from the other sources or display devices. Meaning if you do not have all 3D compliant devices hooked to the switch the signal allowed to be passed will default the the lowest common factors which may be no 3D. I ran into a similar problem with my New Yamaha. Using two outputs one to a 3DA-1 and one to a standard input. Had the outputs both on. When I set the outputs to the dependent source 3D was passed as the Yamaha blocks the other edid.

I expanded on this a bit... I have both 2D and 3D hdmi sources hooked to the AVR. As mentioned earlier, the DMP-100 will go into 3D mode as needed, even though it is connected to the AVR. I started watching a 3D trailer on the DMP-100, then turned on the PS3. I'm not sure why, but this enabled 3D on the PS3. Apparently you can have both 2D and 3D enabled devices connected to the AVR as long as the AVR / 3DA-1 / TV are in 3D mode when you power up the PS3. At least now, I can use the PS3 in 3D mode with the AVR as it is, without a Gefen and without switching cables around.

Question for those of you that have tried both DLP and IR switched glasses... Have you noticed a difference in eye fatigue / strain between the two? I went with DLP glasses (Viewsonic PGD-150) because my wireless headphones use IR and I didn't want take a chance on a 3d IR emitter interfering with the headphones or vise-versa. The PGD-150 turned out to be bad news. Not only the loss of sync problem, but mechanically they are very weak and I've broken the two pair I have several times. Going to IR glasses will be expensive since I already own a 3DA-1 and will have to buy a 3D emitter to make the switch. My wife, doesn't like watching 3D with the DLP glasses. She says it hurts her eyes. Needless to say, she's not too keen on my spending more money on 3D hardware. If can tell her that switching to IR glasses should reduce her eye strain, it might be an easier sell... or at least I'd feel better about spending the money.

I don't believe their will be a difference in eyestrain between the DLP link glasses and the IR glasses. I have the IR and they also cause mild (for me) eye fatigue. It is the switching - high speed shutter that causes the eyestrain.

Sorry for the double post (also in 3d tech talk)

Does the HLT-6187s use DLP Link technology? If so, can I just use the PS3, the 3DA-1 adapter (w/ flashed EDID), and a set of DLP Link glasses without any emitter on my set? If so, this isn't going to cost me as much as I expected, as those UC glasses are only $65 a pair.

Yes.

Thank you for this post! You saved me a headache because I was just about to order two fo the shrek kits, assuming it had the emitter included (I thought all the "starter kits" had the emitter - I did not realize that the new Samsung TVs had a built-in emitter until I read your post).

Any idea if the emitter is available as a standalone item?? I have two DLP RPTVs (a sammy 6187s and a Mits 60638) and want two emitters, two of the Mits adapters, four pair of glasses, and one set of Shrek movies :-)

Which/where are the inexpensive DLP-link glasses? I've only seen the X-Pand ones at around $110 each.

I'm thinking I'd prefer to go the route of the Samsung glasses because of the compatibility with their newer LCD TVs as well as working with DLP (and possibly with a computer setup as well?). DLP-link glasses are nice because they remove the emitter from the equation and are great if you are thinking of going with a projector in the future, but they are DLP-only.