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Price Theater 2.0

post #1 of 48
Thread Starter 
Almost completed new house, here is the space I am using for a small basement theater. The green walls are 2x4 framing over poured concrete, the red ones are 2x4 framed beside occupied space. I already have most of the equipment left over from theater 1.0.
For scale, the ceilings are 9', and the long wall is a bit less than 18'. I have a pretty close Sketchup model, but I don't have a place to host it. I could PM it to anyone if interested.
I am just in the layout stage while I spend money on finishing the rest of the house, so no drywall is hung yet in here. Ideally I would like 2 rows of seating, and am trying to decide if there is enough space to do a AT screen or just use the 106" high power I already have.
For gear I am using axiom M22's for fronts and one of their lower model centers. I need to get new surrounds. I have a large custom sub. My projector is a couple year old 720p Epson, and I have an Emotiva pre/pro with amp.
The walls, door, and rack location are set already, so the room can only get smaller from here. This is below the master suite, so I will need to double drywall the ceiling at least.



Thanks for looking and any comments!
post #2 of 48
Welcome to the madness!

Can you post some dimensions of the space? The area looks promising, but dimensions will really help understand the possibilities.

CJ
post #3 of 48
Thread Starter 
Added dimensions:

post #4 of 48
If you're going to provide isolation to the room above, you'll need to do all the walls as well as the ceiling or the sound will simply flank up in the space between the framing and the concrete (or the other walls) and go right upstairs.

The door will also be a noise path. At a minimum, use a solid core wood door as opposed to a standard hollow interior door.

Bryan
post #5 of 48
Thread Starter 
Started wiring yesterday, got all the speakers done except the left front, ran out of wire. Hurry up monoprice! Im using adjustable depth boxes for the speaker wire to hopefully adjust for the double drywall. Is it worth it to spray great stuff in the back of the boxes? I also ran the HDMI, s-video and component cable to the projector location. I don't think I'm going to use conduit because the ceiling system will still be accessible from the mechanical room side if I need to change things. It's an open truss system so a long fish tape should still work ok I think.

Still trying to decide about whisper clips and green glue, not sure I can afford them... or I should say it will take a couple months longer to.
post #6 of 48
Quote:
Originally Posted by price3 View Post

I don't think I'm going to use conduit because the ceiling system will still be accessible from the mechanical room side if I need to change things. It's an open truss system so a long fish tape should still work ok I think.
.

Hard to tell where you set up is and where your projector is from reading. I did not run conduit either as I had a utility room behind my room, but I did run one long run of 1 1/2" PVC from my AV closet to the utility room after i wired everything. It is cheap as it was just a 25' straight run. I will probably never use it, but 'just in case'.
post #7 of 48
Thread Starter 
Framed out my equipment rack, started putting up some insulation in the places the wire is run. Still trying to decide about transducer wiring. I've never used them, but I have 2 open channels on my amp if I want to try it out. I'm only wiring for 5.1 since the room is pretty tight, but I guess I could make it 6.1 if I dont like shakers using the same wires.
post #8 of 48
Thread Starter 
Is there any way mathematically to tell where the better sub location would be? My choices would be somewhere along the screen wall, or else in the right side alcove with the rack. I am going to run rg6 for a sub signal cable with rca crimp ends, is that ok?
post #9 of 48
Thread Starter 
Some pics:
door and rear wall:


rack side:


screen wall:


newest sketchup:
post #10 of 48
Thread Starter 
I have trouble selecting what axis I want to move stuff on, so sketchup dimensions are approximate.
post #11 of 48
Hey Price. Thought I'd check out what you have going on. Looks like an interesting space you have! Looking forward to watching a local build go up!
post #12 of 48
Thread Starter 
I have noticed 3-4 people from right around here lately.
My space isn't typically shaped, but I'm hoping that may actually help with room modes. Thats what I tell myself anyway.
post #13 of 48
It is my understanding that it is practically impossible to calculate "ideal" sub positioning in a regular shaped space, let alone a non-standard shape room like yours. Assume it will either be in the front of the room or back and just plan enough wiring flexibility so that you can tune the location once everything is built and the treatments are in place.

Using a SMS-1 (or equivalent) would allow you to fine tune the placement in real time, but it's another $400 investment.
post #14 of 48
I thought I planned well for sub placement, but still didn't cover what I ended up with. Fortunately I've got easy access through an adjacent room.

A preference I've discovered in my room is that despite subwoofers playing (mostly) in a non directional frequency, I don't feel comfortable unless they're in front of me. I think of it this way....if you put a jackhammer loose in your room and you can't hear it, you'd still know where it was. It's the thing shaking the house...hard to hide.

All that being said, I'd shoot for front room placement myself.
post #15 of 48
Thread Starter 
There is a big difference between your 2 beasts and my DIY Rythmik build Tony. I'm hoping this room pressurizes as well as my last one did, I'd like to be done with subs for a while. Thought I had a finished pic but this is all I had in photobucket:



no it doesn't have wheels, I just had it on a scale at work for easy movement. Sometimes I wish it had them though, lol.
post #16 of 48
damn, how big is that thing?
post #17 of 48
Beautiful sub! Love the veneer.
post #18 of 48
Thread Starter 
It's not that big, like 2 ft tall. Really heavy though. That's a 12" speaker hole, so I guess a bit over 2' tall.
post #19 of 48
Thread Starter 
Yesterday I put plywood between the joists where the projector will mount. Not much progress, but free! I'm planning on 12 ft. from the screen wall. It should be fine for my current Epson HC400, and hopefully the 8350 I plan to replace it with. I am wondering how far from the floor/ceiling I should mount my screen?? Before I was constrained by 8 ft. ceilings and a cabinet below, but now I am wide open with 9 ft. What would be the "ideal" placement? Eyes at about 1/3 up the screen or something like that?
post #20 of 48
My ceiling is 9' 3", and I have my eyes (when on the riser) at the recommended one third from the bottom. Feels very comfortable. I've had screens higher before, and this definitely is an improvement. That's what I'd shoot for.
post #21 of 48
One observation - if it was me, I'd put blocking behind the right surround, to make it fire the same angle as the opposed surround.
post #22 of 48
Can you put some furniture in the sketchup? One row or two rows of seating? If it's one row, I would definetely go with an AT screen. The narrow width of the screen wall is going to limit speaker placement and screensize if you don't.

+1 on getting those surround at the same angle.
post #23 of 48
Thread Starter 
OK, I will adjust that angled speaker somehow. It may be easier to do after drywall, I cant imagine how to do it with clips and channel...

It seems in my zeal to finish insulating the ceiling I neglected to stub out the power to the projector and soffit lighting. I think I can still do it without removing anything since there is a gap in the center of the room I haven't insulated yet. Anywhere cheaper than Lowes etc to buy 100' of Romex?

Version 2.0 will use the 106" High Power I already own, 2.1 will be the AT screen.
post #24 of 48
Thread Starter 
I am thinking of giving up the clips and channel, seems like a ton of work. I was only going to do the ceiling and red walls anyway since the rest are already decoupled. Definitely going double 5/8" with green glue. My plan is to build soffits along the green walls to hold around 3 can lights on each side, with the rest being bass traps. Does that sound like enough light? What is the reason to choose 6" cans over 4" or 5" ones?
post #25 of 48
I know very little about sound isolation. I felt no need with our lifestyle. However, I do wish I had done two layers of drywall. I think the extra mass on the wall would have been noticable.

One quality that I appreciate in theater lighting is the use of more fixtures at a lower light level, versus less fixtures at a brighter light level. I think you can get by with less light in the room if it is evenly distrubuted. Fewer "hot spots". I've got 26 fixtures in my room total.
post #26 of 48
Thread Starter 
Wow Tony that's a lot of fixtures. You have more space than me though by far. I am thinking of a single row 3-or so feet from the back wall. I wish I could fit 4 seats in, still working that part out.
post #27 of 48
Thread Starter 
Drywall being delivered today for installation tomorrow!! I'll be so glad to get this insulation covered up... Maybe my sinus infection will finally go away.
post #28 of 48
Thread Starter 
I think there is green glue on everything i own. coming to mud and tape this morning, I'll post pics as soon as I get some temp light up.
post #29 of 48
Quote:
Originally Posted by price3 View Post

I think there is green glue on everything i own. coming to mud and tape this morning, I'll post pics as soon as I get some temp light up.

Exciting! Now you'll start thinking of wires you wish you had put in the wall.
post #30 of 48
Thread Starter 
Blurry phone pics:




Also, my Epson 400 is for sale in the classified section, if anyone is interested. Low hours (<500?) perfect shape. Asking $400 shipped.
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