MiniDSP - Page 46

I've had my eye on the sp1-4000, but the end user versions don't have DSP built in, so it would cost quite a bit more in the end ($1300 plus the price of DSP). Definitely a better amp than the PWR-DSP1, but I'm already over budget.

If anyone can help with the questions I posted above it would be really helpful. Thanks.

I'm actually going to do miniDSP calibration after audyssey in my av8801.

fix a couple of nodes audyssey didn't quite get rid of, and most importantly, add that needed L/T to boost the low end.

^^^ Be careful trying to fix nulls caused by wave (signal) cancellation. You can eat up a lot of headroom and/or overdrive amp(s) and speaker(s) with little benefit.

Still running quad sealed Mal-X's, Sherv?

not sure if that would cause a problem, since audyssey applies the filters that span many listening positions, while the minidsp for the most part will only be doing it for a main listening position? not sure how you would work minidsp to multiple listening positions.

Do you receive a shipping confirmation on these, or do they just show up?

Ordered a mini and mic and am curious as to their status.

yep... no need to change them out anytime soon

correct, care needs to be taken not to over extend headroom in the amps by adding gains and such. Don't worry, been down this path many times before with the DEQ2496

My room has a couple of nasty nodes that audyssey was never (has never) been able to fix. my new processor (marantz av8801) has audyssey xt32 and sub HT, and does a much better job than before, but still need to accomplish:

1. adding L/T circuit to boost the low end.... remember, I'm driving quad 18' sealed subs.
2. mitigating the nodes by leveling off the gains.

I'll post the charts when done, but you can see what i achieved with the DEQ2496 with the same setup, prior to it going 6ft under:

You could do it by creating filters from averaged measurements. REW is happy to help with this.

USPS delivered mine. I think it's EMS shipping, but I don't have the label anymore.

Technically you should have to pay a duty. However, I've ordered other relatively expensive electronic gear from China. Not $1k though, a max of ~$500 and have yet to pay a duty.

@ssabripo -- Very impressive performance! Check the miniDSP filter specs, they did not used to go too low in frequency but I read here that had changed. With those monsters you probably want to EQ a little below 20 Hz, I am guessing...

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Regarding averaging readings: I have had mixed success with that in the past depending upon the room, speakers, phase of the moon... Sometimes I've had better results by looking at the separate mic position runs as well as the average to spot any key trouble spots. I do not always want to go to the lowest common denominator; the back of the bus does not get the same view as the front and it's not always desirable or practical to make them the same.

What are the specs on the miniDSP?

What is the lowest freq you can EQ / apply filter to?

http://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-2x4

and about 10hz

Thanks! Sweet! I was hoping they had updated it. It's great to have options.

I am a die hard DCX fan but that is a damn handy little box.

Hi guys, I am taking my very first step in the world of eq'ing and room correction, hence requesting your guidance. I have a Tuba HT subwoofer currently hooked upto Dayton SA1000 amp, and Definitive Technology Mythos ST speakers. I am looking forward to get the umik-1 mic and a minidsp. On the minidsp product page I see many options, 2 x 4 , 2 x 8, ect balanced and unbalanced and options such as minidsp kit and minidsp in the box. For my setup what should I be looking at?
Also I might add a Danley DTS-10 subwoofer in the future. Hence the minidsp shud be compatible with that too.

Also what boom stand is recommended with this, will any generic mic clip hold the umik-1 mic?

As far as I can tell, with no experience with the miniDSP whatsoever, the 2x4 unbalanced would be the simplest setup. The 4 outputs will give you flexibility (if they are discreet) of adding more subs in the future with different filters for each. If you don't want to bother EQing them separately, you can always just eq the summed output with a 2x2 unit.

That's a damn fine curve there!

You may be interested in this:

Ambiophonics

When using REW and the MiniDSP to get your sub dialed in should you prohibit the left and right speakers from playing? This of course is while taking measurements.

Initially yes. I'm sure everyone has a different approach, but I turn mine off on initial measurements and eq just the subs. After they are dialed in, I'll run another sweep and see how they integrate with the mains. I'll then tweak a little more from there. YMMV.

You also cannot have any passive subs in the room as they will absorb energy, ala Helmoltz Resonator.

I should not have any in the room. Are there some guidelines to using the MiniDSP? After I take my measurements with REW I am assuming I will find some peaks and valleys. What is the best method to flatten it out? I think I remember hearing it is better to cut peaks than lift valleys is that correct?

Yes, correct. Try to avoid adding boost anywhere if possible. It is always better to cut and/or adjust the sub's positioning in the room if possible.

The unbalanced version of the 2x4 has a maximum output level of 0.9 Volts RMS, which is not enough to drive most amps to full power. The balanced 2x4 version has a much higher maximum output level (2 Volts RMS single-ended, 4 Volts RMS balanced).

Ahh, that is a nice bonus. I would definitely opt for the balanced version myself. I always go balanced in my system whenever possible, but not everyone sees the benefits.

It’s a myth with more lives than seven cats – see here.

Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt

^^^ A little more info: The usual caution is not about boosting vs. cutting but about trying to boost a null caused by signal cancellation at the listening position. By doing that you may be overdriving the system (i.e. way too loud when you are outside the null) and simply wasting headroom.

Boost or cut, once you renormalize the gain, the headroom is the same.

Exactly. For the unexperienced, damage can be done quickly and easily via boosting.

That's a good point. I learned this all too well with my first in depth subwoofer setup. I tried for a flat curve at the LP, which had a nasty hole; only to find out I was doing some serious damage that I didn't pick up on until it was too late.

I got the mini 10x10 for xmas that will be used for 8 subs that are ran by 2 FP10ks (8 total channels of the amps).

Do I need to split the outputs from my AVR 8 times for the inputs or can I simply use 1 input but seperate outputs for each sub?