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post #1981 of 2293
Do any of you enable crossover in miniDSP considering its already set in avr first at 80?
post #1982 of 2293
Quote:
Originally Posted by SherazNJ View Post

Do any of you enable crossover in miniDSP considering its already set in avr first at 80?
I do because of sub placement my larger up front subs play higher (120 hz, 24dB/oct) and my rear sub I have a steep 48db/oct roll off at 80hz to reduce localization. Works great
post #1983 of 2293
Quote:
Originally Posted by SherazNJ View Post

Do any of you enable crossover in miniDSP considering its already set in avr first at 80?
It can be useful. Generally the LPF is a BW2 filter, so adding a second in the MD with the same characteristics will get you a LR4.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lbrown105 View Post

I do because of sub placement my larger up front subs play higher (120 hz, 24dB/oct) and my rear sub I have a steep 48db/oct roll off at 80hz to reduce localization. Works great
What is the point in having a LPF at 120 for the mains when they are already rolled off at 80 by the AVR?
post #1984 of 2293
Hi - I'm reposting something I asked awhile back on a small thread about the MiniDSP, not this primary one. I have a question about the balanced/unbalanced voltage issue.

Background:
I have a Denon 4311 AVR with MultiEQ XT32 and Audyssey Pro.. My system has Mythos ST mains, a CS-8080 HD center, Gem XL surrounds, and two HSU ULS-15 subs. The mains and center are powered, with a woofer section that you can run either as LFE input as a faux sub, or you can run these speakers as a single speaker, with the signal carried on speaker wire. All my LFE/sub connections are currently unbalanced RCA types.

However, I'm toying, based on the suggestion of some guys on my REW/HDMI thread, with going the Geddes "more bass, even with less capable subs, is better" route, and using the Mythos ST LFE inputs, the CS-8080 LFE input, and my two real subs in some manner to ultimately get a better overall bass response with frequency response and more importantly bass decay rates.

Having said that, the MiniDSP 10x10 in a box, and the 10x10 plug-in, would be perfect. I could put the two real subs and the three woofers on LFE, set separate levels, and matrix them into one or more sub channels as output (which I can always run on a Y-adaptor as a single output from my AVR if I want). That way I can manage delay and levels within the MiniDSP for the individual (or grouped) subs, experiment with different high shelf filters for the channel or channels input from my powered speakers (example: maybe I use a steeper high shelf filter to minimize distortion from my powered center, which only reaches to about 40 Hz, than my powered mains, which can reach more like 25 to 30 Hz), even set some crude house curves on the final output once Audyssey is done. Plus the MiniDSP has multiple presets, which facilitates experimentation.

In a way I'd have more flexible functionality than from either Sub HT EQ, where you can set distance and trim for only two independent sub channels and then EQ them as one (vs. a more interesting approach with an AntiMode or MiniDSP for > 2 subs before you do the final "EQ as one"), or the Audyssey Pro Kit, with its +/- 3 db Target Curve Editor.

But...I get bogged down about the need for XLR cables, creating your own Phoenix cables, and the issues with what voltage to set. For me, the naïve thinking is that since all my inputs are RCA and unbalanced, there's no issue, and connect away on the units unbalanced input/output. Yet, I see a lot of advice that you should go balanced, and tweak voltage for your own situation. And I don't want to blow out my subs with gear designed for pro audio/DIY enthusiasts rather than home audio consumers.

Reading all that, I don't feel comfortable buying a MiniDSP unless I was a lot more DIY than I am with voltage boards and creating my own cables, which I could care less about with my focus on the unit's versatility. Is there really a straight forward answer to this, like you only need to play with voltage if you have some high-powered Emotiva amp, XLR inputs, and DIY stuff? And that as a consumer, there's no risk in taking the plunge as long as I don't start running REW sweeps at 95 db or something?
post #1985 of 2293
Quote:
Originally Posted by sdrucker View Post

But...I get bogged down about the need for XLR cables, creating your own Phoenix cables, and the issues with what voltage to set. For me, the naïve thinking is that since all my inputs are RCA and unbalanced, there's no issue, and connect away on the units unbalanced input/output. Yet, I see a lot of advice that you should go balanced, and tweak voltage for your own situation. And I don't want to blow out my subs with gear designed for pro audio/DIY enthusiasts rather than home audio consumers.

Most of the balanced vs. unbalanced discussions have been in the specific context of the 2x4 miniDSP variants. For that specific category of miniDSP products, the recommended solution has been to use the balanced 2x4. But that recommendation is related to a defect that's specific to the 2x4 unbalanced miniDSP, not to the issue of balanced vs. unbalanced technologies in general, or to other miniDSP models that may not have that defect. Specifically, the maximum output voltage of the unbalanced 2x4 miniDSP is 0.9 Volts RMS, which is not enough to drive to full power the vast majority of pro amps that one might use for subwoofer applications.

Looking at the 10x10 miniDSP, its unbalanced outputs have a maximum output voltage of 2 Volts RMS, and that is enough to drive the majority of pro amps to full power. You just need to look at the power amp's input sensitivity spec and make sure it's ≤ 2 Volts RMS.

I looked at the Mythos ST manual, and it recommends setting the mains speaker size in the AVR to large, even when the LFE input is used. It's an odd design, which appears to be intended to just add in the discrete ".1" MCH LFE channel bass into the mains. For proper operation with mains set to small, you'd need to know the internal crossover frequency of these speakers and set the AVR to that. But that number doesn't seem to be specified, at least not in the owner's manual. If it's high, say 200 Hz, then the stereo bass will be replaced by mono bass up to a higher frequency than is normally considered to be correct.
Edited by andyc56 - 11/21/13 at 5:42pm
post #1986 of 2293
Quote:
Originally Posted by sdrucker View Post
But...I get bogged down about the need for XLR cables, creating your own Phoenix cables, and the issues with what voltage to set. For me, the naïve thinking is that since all my inputs are RCA and unbalanced, there's no issue, and connect away on the units unbalanced input/output. Yet, I see a lot of advice that you should go balanced, and tweak voltage for your own situation. And I don't want to blow out my subs with gear designed for pro audio/DIY enthusiasts rather than home audio consumers.

Reading all that, I don't feel comfortable buying a MiniDSP unless I was a lot more DIY than I am with voltage boards and creating my own cables, which I could care less about with my focus on the unit's versatility. Is there really a straight forward answer to this, like you only need to play with voltage if you have some high-powered Emotiva amp, XLR inputs, and DIY stuff? And that as a consumer, there's no risk in taking the plunge as long as I don't start running REW sweeps at 95 db or something?

I used the 10x10Hd with the RCA in/outs and levels were OK.  OTOH, if I was going to keep the unit in my system, I would probably look into increasing the input sensitivity or going to the balanced connection.

 

As for the actual use, it was surprisingly friendly and you need not feel intimidated.

 

Kal

post #1987 of 2293
Quote:
Originally Posted by andyc56 View Post

Most of the balanced vs. unbalanced discussions have been in the specific context of the 2x4 miniDSP variants. For that specific category of miniDSP products, the recommended solution has been to use the balanced 2x4. But that recommendation is related to a defect that's specific to the 2x4 unbalanced miniDSP, not to the issue of balanced vs. unbalanced technologies in general, or to other miniDSP models that may not have that defect. Specifically, the maximum output voltage of the unbalanced 2x4 miniDSP is 0.9 Volts RMS, which is not enough to drive to full power the vast majority of pro amps that one might use for subwoofer applications.

Looking at the 10x10 miniDSP, its unbalanced outputs have a maximum output voltage of 2 Volts RMS, and that is enough to drive the majority of pro amps to full power. You just need to look at the power amp's input sensitivity spec and make sure it's ≤ 2 Volts RMS.

I looked at the Mythos ST manual, and it recommends setting the mains speaker size in the AVR to large, even when the LFE input is used. It's an odd design, which appears to be intended to just add in the discrete ".1" MCH LFE channel bass into the mains. For proper operation with mains set to small, you'd need to know the internal crossover frequency of these speakers and set the AVR to that. But that number doesn't seem to be specified, at least not in the owner's manual. If it's high, say 200 Hz, then the stereo bass will be replaced by mono bass up to a higher frequency than is normally considered to be correct.

Thanks for doing some legwork. smile.gif

Not to take this off-topic, but I do know the internal crossover of the speakers. As per DefTech (the actual confirmation came from Joe @ DefTech somewhere on the Mythos thread well over a year ago, but I was told the same thing from their support person on the phone awhile back), it's 80 Hz for the Mythos ST, which is what I use as my crossover in my AVR. They may recommend "Large" setting, but you don't want to do that if you've got subs that can go deeper than the Mythos can (somewhere around 35 Hz - 3 db according to some reviews, and I see something in the 30-35 Hz range when I run REW). I have two HSUs, which are fine with reaching 16 Hz as per REW measurements. And the Audyssey folks, for one, argue strongly against EVER running mains as "Large" if you have standalone subs and calibrating a multichannel HT system..

You do have a point, though, which is that the DT powered speaker lines (Mythos and BP) were marketed to people looking to use more powerful "mains", and alleviate the need for having separate subs. If you do have separate subs, you're better off running the Mythos as "Small" except for possibly two channel listening, when you might want to run them full range w/o the independent subs being active. The LFE input is really superfluous in this context. It's good advice, in this case, to level match both sections of the speaker before running REQ.

However, there's a reason for why I'd do this LFE input route, which is beyond the scope of this thread and off in the rabbit hole of Geddes master/slave subs and a suggestion from an expert on the REW/HDMI thread. Short version: it's the idea that you treat the "non-powered" section of the speaker as a satellite, and the "powered" section as a co-located secondary sub. Where MiniDSP comes in is for blending things together to get a better < 80 Hz response than just from the standalone subs alone. Basicallly I'd take my "subs" from the mains (+ the "sub" from a powered center) and use the Matrix Editor to massage them into a secondary channel to my equidistant independent subs (which can go on a primary channel), and then connect both outputs to my Denon 4311, which has two independent subs and Sub EQ HT to given them separate distance and level. It's esoteric, and it may not work, but as thought experiments go, one size doesn't necessary fit all. There's also the risk of getting some screwy phase effect for the mains by divorcing the two sections of the speaker from running as a single speaker effectively, which is where the controls of MiniDSP might come in useful.

BTW there's a fair amount of people that run the Mythos as Small/80 Hz and have independent subs, at least on the Mythos thread historically.

As per Kal, though, I might just bite the bullet and get the 10x10 if I go this route. It seems that the safe thing to do is get cable adaptors and go the straight balanced route. Although I suppose I can contact Denon, or ping the guys on the 4311 thread to see if someone knows if that AVR's input sensitivity is ≤ 2 Volts RMS.

Finally, but I don't have balanced outlets on either my subs or the Mythos, nor my AVR. What to do you if you have, say, a 15-20 ft. cable run: pick up balanced cables with RCA/XLR on either end, or use a normal RCA cable and just get a simple RCA/XLR adaptor for connecting to/from the MiniDSP?
Edited by sdrucker - 11/21/13 at 6:51pm
post #1988 of 2293
Quote:
Originally Posted by sdrucker View Post

As per Kal, though, I might just bite the bullet and get the 10x10 if I go this route. It seems that the safe thing to do is get cable adaptors and go the straight balanced route. Although I suppose I can contact Denon, or ping the guys on the 4311 thread to see if someone knows if that AVR's input sensitivity is ≤ 2 Volts RMS.

Finally, but I don't have balanced outlets on either my subs or the Mythos, nor my AVR. What to do you if you have, say, a 15 ft. cable run: pick up balanced cables with RCA/XLR on either end, or use a normal RCA cable and just get a simple RCA/XLR adaptor for connecting to/from the MiniDSP?

It's not the AVR input sensitivity that matters, it's the input sensitivity of the sub's power amp. The input sensitivity of a power amp is defined as the RMS voltage of a sine wave at the power amp input required to drive the power amp to full sine wave output power.

It sounds like an interesting setup you're contemplating. I'm familiar with the Geddes multi-sub technique. I'm working on some software, which I'll make available for free sometime next year, that automates what Earl is speaking of in his multi-sub video.

Sounds like you should go unbalanced all the way. I've used 15 ft. unbalanced in the past with no hum problems whatsoever, but this is system dependent. If everything in the path is unbalanced, including the input of the active subs, there's nothing to be gained from using XLR cables and adapters.

Edit: One reason the use of balanced miniDSP outputs gets recommended a lot in this forum (in addition to the problem with the 2x4 unbalanced version) is that, being a DIY forum, people are building passive subs and powering them with external pro power amps, of which almost all have balanced inputs.
Edited by andyc56 - 11/21/13 at 7:07pm
post #1989 of 2293
FWIW I have over 15 ft of RCA run, probably more like 25 ft, into my pro audio PEQ and AMP. I made my own RCA to XLR cables only because the pro audio gear wouldn't take the RCA cables.

Andy - cool that you're doing that program. I"ve not seen the video you linked to so I will check it out. I just recently read his paper. Good read!
post #1990 of 2293
The Geddes video has an accompanying PowerPoint presentation here. There's some stuff missing at the beginning of the video that's filled in by the PPT, so it may be a good idea to read the beginning of the PPT first. Then it matches up with the video if you follow along.

Regarding the program, I'm more than a little nervous (actually a lot nervous) about releasing it, because there's no way I can support it in any serious way. I'd be overwhelmed if I tried to do that.
post #1991 of 2293
Quote:
Originally Posted by andyc56 View Post

The Geddes video has an accompanying PowerPoint presentation here. There's some stuff missing at the beginning of the video that's filled in by the PPT, so it may be a good idea to read the beginning of the PPT first. Then it matches up with the video if you follow along.

Regarding the program, I'm more than a little nervous (actually a lot nervous) about releasing it, because there's no way I can support it in any serious way. I'd be overwhelmed if I tried to do that.

Maybe Earl would be interested in it..? I've seen him around on some forums and he seems like a nice enough guy.
post #1992 of 2293
I've talked to Earl about it in his now-defunct forum. To be honest, he uses his program as a proprietary advantage in selling his subs, so I'm a bit worried he might get mad at me for doing this.

He is a really nice guy and a really bright guy too. I like him.
post #1993 of 2293
Quote:
Originally Posted by andyc56 View Post

It's not the AVR input sensitivity that matters, it's the input sensitivity of the sub's power amp. The input sensitivity of a power amp is defined as the RMS voltage of a sine wave at the power amp input required to drive the power amp to full sine wave output power.

It sounds like an interesting setup you're contemplating. I'm familiar with the Geddes multi-sub technique. I'm working on some software, which I'll make available for free sometime next year, that automates what Earl is speaking of in his multi-sub video.

Sounds like you should go unbalanced all the way. I've used 15 ft. unbalanced in the past with no hum problems whatsoever, but this is system dependent. If everything in the path is unbalanced, including the input of the active subs, there's nothing to be gained from using XLR cables and adapters.

Edit: One reason the use of balanced miniDSP outputs gets recommended a lot in this forum (in addition to the problem with the 2x4 unbalanced version) is that, being a DIY forum, people are building passive subs and powering them with external pro power amps, of which almost all have balanced inputs.

Thanks for the clarifications, Andy. I got this idea from AVS user sdurani, who historically knows his stuff for subs and room placements, so when he says Geddes multi-sub as a possible way to improve my bass decay response from just two HSU ULS-15s, I take him seriously. There's a subtle difference between this LFE/matrixing route and a Large approach (even with Audyssey XT32), but IMO leveraging the MiniDSP at the individual sub as well as matrixed level makes it meaningful.

At any rate, I'll check with DT and HSU to find out if their sub power amps have the proper sensitivity for pure unbalanced. It would sure make my life easier smile.gif.

My real problem is that I'm kind of limited with room treatments in our multipurpose room, but playing with placement and the tools I have creatively takes me further than I'd be otherwise. And a Geddes approach with the MiniDSP becomes even cooler if you tie it into a Trinnov unit haha...but that's a whole other subject.
post #1994 of 2293
Quote:
Originally Posted by andyc56 View Post


I looked at the Mythos ST manual, and it recommends setting the mains speaker size in the AVR to large, even when the LFE input is used. It's an odd design, which appears to be intended to just add in the discrete ".1" MCH LFE channel bass into the mains. For proper operation with mains set to small, you'd need to know the internal crossover frequency of these speakers and set the AVR to that. But that number doesn't seem to be specified, at least not in the owner's manual. If it's high, say 200 Hz, then the stereo bass will be replaced by mono bass up to a higher frequency than is normally considered to be correct.

I look at speakers like the Mythos ST with its single 6 x 10 (similar to an 8" round) alleged subwoofer and wonder what people are smoking when they characterize this as a subwoofer. ;-)

The "bass radiators" are just port substitutes so its not like there are 3 active sub bass drivers. Air handling rests on that 1 each 6 x 10 driver.

IOW no way can they pass for "large" speakers even in my fairly modest system with 2 12" subwoofers...
post #1995 of 2293
^^ they are smoking all the money they make from ignorant people who don't know any better and buy the product on false expectations.
post #1996 of 2293
Quote:
Originally Posted by arnyk View Post

The "bass radiators" are just port substitutes so its not like there are 3 active sub bass drivers. Air handling rests on that 1 each 6 x 10 driver.

Ah, I missed that because of "bass radiator" having been used instead of the usual "passive radiator".
post #1997 of 2293
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

^^ they are smoking all the money they make from ignorant people who don't know any better and buy the product on false expectations.

This is a pretty sensitive topic, and one that has nothing to do with miniDSP, so I'll be brief. I frankly get a kick out of bashing the audiophool press and audiophool manufacturers.

But if there are people who are not in any way trying to defend the indefensible actions of these groups, but are looking for practical solutions to practical problems, then providing such seems the appropriate response.
post #1998 of 2293
^^ just say'n...sometimes the promise of the marketing dept doesn't match the reality of the product. i don't eat at wendy's anymore, but in all the times that i, never once did anything like this find its way to my table.

pitch:



catch:

post #1999 of 2293
I get what you're saying, but when trying to convince individual audiophiles who have shown a genuine interest in learning, it's just plain wrong to deride them as "ignorant". Such a response might be appropriate for the Audio Asylum types, who will defend industry a-holes to the death, but it's not at all appropriate for someone here trying to understand subtle stuff like Geddes multi-sub, REW measurements, and so on.
post #2000 of 2293
i wasn't deriding anybody. to me, ignorant just means "folks who don't know any better". maybe i just used the wrong word.
post #2001 of 2293
Okay. I don't want to drag this out, but as I see it, respect is due to those who seek knowledge and who show respect when doing so. That is all. smile.gif
post #2002 of 2293
^^ FWIW I chiefly think of the Mythos as having really great mid-bass rather than vertical, front-firing subwoofers LOL, But as a supplement, as per Geddes, the plugged-in woofers _may_ be helpful to supplement real subs. Or not. But being inadequate for sophisticated users is a far cry from a "where's the beef". For what they are, the powered DTs are certainly a step up from underpowered, crappy bookshelf speakers. Especially in a smallish room.

Keep in mind that the average HT buyer, even someone willing to buy a supertower pair, isn't out there with Seaton Submersives, balanced connections and MiniDSP, let alone an REW kit to measure subtle differences in sub response.
post #2003 of 2293
Quote:
Originally Posted by sdrucker View Post

Short version: it's the idea that you treat the "non-powered" section of the speaker as a satellite, and the "powered" section as a co-located secondary sub. Where MiniDSP comes in is for blending things together to get a better < 80 Hz response than just from the standalone subs alone. Basicallly I'd take my "subs" from the mains (+ the "sub" from a powered center) and use the Matrix Editor to massage them into a secondary channel to my equidistant independent subs (which can go on a primary channel), and then connect both outputs to my Denon 4311, which has two independent subs and Sub EQ HT to given them separate distance and level. It's esoteric, and it may not work, but as thought experiments go, one size doesn't necessary fit all. There's also the risk of getting some screwy phase effect for the mains by divorcing the two sections of the speaker from running as a single speaker effectively, which is where the controls of MiniDSP might come in useful.

I couldn't quite figure out your exact intent from the above description. It looks to me like you intend to kind of "re-derive" the sub channel from the mains and possibly the center preamp out of the AVR. If that is indeed the case, and I'm not sure it is, the summation of the mains and possibly the center into the newly-derived sub channel can become quite messed up by comb-filtering effects if the AVR's distance settings for mains and/or center are unequal. The variable delay used to set speaker distance needs to be after the summation, which is done properly when using the AVR's internal processing. What Geddes does is to put the AVR bass management into LFE+Main mode, set the AVR's crossover to the highest possible (250 Hz?), and set the mains to large. Then the AVR sub out goes into the DSP, which is used as a splitter to derive multiple sub channels with independently controllable filters, delays, and attenuations. The mains end up as full range, and there are also sub outputs which, in the absence of any added DSP filtering, cut off at a frequency higher than what you want to end up with. The DSP is used to tweak the low-pass filters to the subs, possibly having a different cutoff frequency for each sub's LPF. These LPFs would cut off much lower than 250 Hz, so they would dominate the behavior of the sub filtering.

What can be done with the signal to the mains and center in this scenario depends on whether you're using external power amps for them. If you are, you can route the mains and center through the miniDSP and set whatever high-pass you want for them. If you're using the AVR's built-in amps, there's a lot fewer options. If you are using the AVR's power amps, I can't see any reason to choose a miniDSP having 8 analog input channels as the 10x10 does.
post #2004 of 2293
^^ Rather than derail the thread, I'll respond with a PM after we see Catching Fire tonight. I'll CC Sanjay (sdurani) on a separate PM and see what his thoughts are, since it was his idea in the first place LOL.

Good thoughts, though. Some of this I think may get taken care of in the setup (after all, you're setting separate distances for the L/C/R "main", and they're almost exactly equidistant anyway, both physically and in Audyssey's settings), but the Large/LFE+Main aspect, where you're not only doing a separate crossover from the speaker's internal crossover of 80 Hz (and the one I'd normally use in the AVR), but crossing well beyond where a sub localizes, gives me the creeps. OTOH, given that the main/sub combo on the speakers is co-located anyway, that may be less of a concern. And while the independent subs can go as high as 250 Hz supposedly, the woofers (the "subs" on LFE) from the speakers clearly can't. And isn't the 'non-powered' element of the speakers getting a low bass signal if you do LFE+Main, which they would if run ''Large"??? That's the aspect where my head starts to hurt.

Finally, note that the three powered speakers have their own powered, built-in Class D amps, and my HSUs are independently powered as well. The speakers, above and beyond what the woofer produces soundwise, are powered by the AVR. You don't have the low bass powered by the AVR.

Still, let's take this offline.
Edited by sdrucker - 11/22/13 at 4:27pm
post #2005 of 2293
Quote:
Originally Posted by sdrucker View Post

However, I'm toying, based on the suggestion of some guys on my REW/HDMI thread, with going the Geddes "more bass, even with less capable subs, is better" route, and using the Mythos ST LFE inputs, the CS-8080 LFE input, and my two real subs in some manner to ultimately get a better overall bass response with frequency response and more importantly bass decay rates.

I think that's a good idea. Your mains are adequate for the job, if you steeply highpass filter them. Otherwise, the mains will be your limiting factor.

Keep in mind that the Geddes method is really for the modal region, not all the bass but 50-150Hz or thereabouts. Below that, they all just sum, and global EQ is probably best to fix the system response. (MiniDSP's offer global EQ on each input.) So as long as there's enough total ULF capability, then the really deep stuff will be fine.

So throw in a steep highpass where the mains start to roll off.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sdrucker View Post

Reading all that, I don't feel comfortable buying a MiniDSP unless I was a lot more DIY than I am with voltage boards and creating my own cables, which I could care less about with my focus on the unit's versatility. Is there really a straight forward answer to this, like you only need to play with voltage if you have some high-powered Emotiva amp, XLR inputs, and DIY stuff? And that as a consumer, there's no risk in taking the plunge as long as I don't start running REW sweeps at 95 db or something?

The 10x10 is available as a plug-n-play box. (I didn't go that route, as multisub use doesn't require the digital I/O or remote volume control: I bought the 8x8 board and the box, and screwed the board into the box myself.) The one caveat is that the thing has a nasty turn-off thump. Here's what happened when I was playing with mine and accidentally disconnected the power:
photo.JPG
Admittedly, I was using a very powerful amp (ElectroVoice CPS-8.5, rated 500W/4Ω per channel) but still: the thump from disconnecting the miniDSP literally reset the woofer cone back a couple mm. And like many subwoofers, the KEF Q100 has a 2" voicecoil. (Though it's shorter than many subs' vc's.)

Now I keep mine hooked up to a UPS, because I fear a power outage could destroy my subs.
post #2006 of 2293
^^ Holy crap. Did it stick like that?

Am I reading the input specs correctly on the 2x8? Does it have more headroom on the input side vs. the 2x4 balanced box?

Im dialed back as much as possible but still awful close to, if not already, clipping the inputs of my 2x4 balanced.
post #2007 of 2293
The driver still works, believe it or not. Through the mids it doesn't sound much different. (Treble is much more nasal.)

I think what happened is that the transient actually reset the cone's position on the former.

Not sure about input differences on 2x4bal vs. the x8 parts.

Has anyone played with the car-fi OEM miniDSP x8 units? (PPI DEQ.8, Soundstream Synthesis, Zapco something?) I'm curious if they fixed the turn-off thump.
post #2008 of 2293
I work at an ISP, so we have boxes and boxes of router/modem power cords laying around. Am I okay powering a 2x4 balanced mini dsp with a 12v .5a Linksys power supply?
post #2009 of 2293
Quote:
Originally Posted by DS-21 View Post

The driver still works, believe it or not. Through the mids it doesn't sound much different. (Treble is much more nasal.)

I think what happened is that the transient actually reset the cone's position on the former.

Not sure about input differences on 2x4bal vs. the x8 parts.

Has anyone played with the car-fi OEM miniDSP x8 units? (PPI DEQ.8, Soundstream Synthesis, Zapco something?) I'm curious if they fixed the turn-off thump.

Am I seeing that pic correctly?? That ribbed piece on the outer edge of the speaker was the surround that is now sucked in and stuck in that position?

Don't audio eq boxes, like amps, have a constant and a trigger 12 volt supply?


EDIT-- I'm not sure if this is you or not, but it might be worth watching. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/minidsp/247736-car-fi-minidsps-ppi-deq-8-soundstream-synthesis-turn-off-thump.html

Edit again-- http://www.zapco.com/download/dc/zdcseriesman_ver13.1.pdf

There's a link to the manual for the Zapco unit and it does in fact show a + - and remote hookup. So, the thing always has juice going to it. Whether it's setup to turn off last would now be the question.

Would this turn off thud be a concern for subs?
Edited by pdxrealtor - 12/18/13 at 5:51pm
post #2010 of 2293
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post

What is the difference between sub eq and peak filters?

Did you ever get an answer to this?

I'm not sure if you saw the post or not, but over on the mini-dsp site there is a lengthy one pertaining to evolution of this sub eq. Notnyt was at the center of it, so if you did not get an answer you might ask him.

.... and then let us know.
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