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It's time to put it together, opinions sought!!

post #1 of 33
10/12/10 at 7:45pm
Thread Starter 
First, hello! I'm new, and have been thread surfing/lurking for a while. Finally registered right after I ordered my first home theater pj.

I'm looking for input on not only my screen design and build, but also projector placement, lighting solutions, color schemes, etc.

A bit of filler:

I have what some would call an ideal situation. I am single, and my girlfriend lives 4 hours away and loves watching movies. She's all for me building a theatre, as long as it's not on the weekends when she's monopolizing my time .

The room in question is my downstairs family room. The room has no carpet because the basement flooded shortly after I purchased the home. I have fixed the water issues and despite the wettest summer in a long time here, have no more issues, however due to me being a worry wart, I am going to try to get by for a year without perminate flooring, to ensure the water issue is resolved, then i'm going to installed floor heating and ceramic tile, and obviously some rugs.

Okay, enough babble and back story, I'm here for help and verification that my plan will work.

Room Demensions: 12x16x7 (PJ will be shooting the 16 direction)

PJ: Optima HD 20 mounted 14.5 foot back

Ambient light: Hardly any, tiny window in room which can & will be blacked out, stairs leading down to room let very little light, no ambient light hitting screen wall.

Proposed screen size: 123 inches diag (60 inches high)

This leaves the screen less than a foot from the floor, is that too little? (is my screen too big?)

Screen material: WilsonArt DW on 1/2 inch MDF

biggest concern is the 7 foot ceilings, with projector mount drop, meaning my screen will be nearly perfectly centered from floor to ceiling, is that going to b acceptable? I'm thinking it's okay, but i'm also thinking "Hells yes, huge screen!!!" so I could have cloudy judgement .

The second part of all this, is do you all have any paint color suggestions, lighting suggestions etc? I've got full control over the room, and right now it needs help. It's got two very cheap round fixtures in the center of the room and one smaller round fixture which is supposed to look like it's at the bottom of the stairs.. my plan is to remove the fixture closest to the screen completely, replace with a sconce or two on the wall, and replace the 2nd centered round light (which is nearly directly over where the seating will be) with track lighting.

I've already started cleaning up and getting the room ready, had to remove a nearly 2 inch bow in the wall the screen will be on (eek!) but it turned out well.

Pics to make it all real:





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post #2 of 33
10/12/10 at 10:33pm
I recently joined myself.
A few things.
1. Get a decent stud finder. (in reference to your last picture)
2. I'd be sure that bowing is not caused from the flooding as in the drywall has become so saturated it will almost flake apart in your hand with any kind of pressure.
3. For your own health if those are still the same walls be sure to check for mold since it has been awhile.
4. If your wiring this thing I would keep the wiring up off the ground for obvious reasons. Even waterproof basements can stay that way for a year or so then spring a leak because something settled or whatever.

Ok on to the actual build.
1. Lighting I would put one of those sconces on the wall where your equipment will be just so you get good light in case you need to do something.
2. Dark color patterns like burgandy, chocolate brown, dark gray, black etc. I am going with a mid gray and a black myself.
3. If you are doing audio surround you will probably want carpet, at least a throw rug or it will sound like a bathroom with the hard surfaces everywhere.
4. I would suggest doing a drape at the bottom of the stairs just to make it feel more seperate. It doesn't have to be blackout but more of a curtain to seperate type of thing.
5. I think that big of a screen if you watch movies that take advantage of the edges you will be looking side to side a bit...could be wrong though.
6. Since you have full control I would put up a base board about 6 inches on the walls then go carpet wainscot to control the sound.
7. Since there isn't much light anyway you will want to go flat paint if possible or eggshell at the most since your room will want to bounce the light from that big screen around.
8. 7 foot ceilings I would definitely paint them a dark color since you can.

That's all I got and some of that may be really wrong. But good luck.
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post #3 of 33
10/13/10 at 8:27am
Quote:
Originally Posted by iced98lx View Post


Proposed screen size: 123 inches diag (60 inches high)

This leaves the screen less than a foot from the floor, is that too little? (is my screen too big?)

Take into consideration the heigth required for your center channel speaker before you finalize your screen heigth. Also, consider if the speakers have room on the side. My ceiling isn't much higher than yours, but I had to drop the sreeen size a bit to accommodate my center speaker which was already a reduced size DIY speaker. Have Fun
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post #4 of 33
10/13/10 at 8:38am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NorthernOHCN View Post

I recently joined myself.
A few things.
1. Get a decent stud finder. (in reference to your last picture)
2. I'd be sure that bowing is not caused from the flooding as in the drywall has become so saturated it will almost flake apart in your hand with any kind of pressure.
3. For your own health if those are still the same walls be sure to check for mold since it has been awhile.
4. If your wiring this thing I would keep the wiring up off the ground for obvious reasons. Even waterproof basements can stay that way for a year or so then spring a leak because something settled or whatever.

Ok on to the actual build.
1. Lighting I would put one of those sconces on the wall where your equipment will be just so you get good light in case you need to do something.
2. Dark color patterns like burgandy, chocolate brown, dark gray, black etc. I am going with a mid gray and a black myself.
3. If you are doing audio surround you will probably want carpet, at least a throw rug or it will sound like a bathroom with the hard surfaces everywhere.
4. I would suggest doing a drape at the bottom of the stairs just to make it feel more seperate. It doesn't have to be blackout but more of a curtain to seperate type of thing.
5. I think that big of a screen if you watch movies that take advantage of the edges you will be looking side to side a bit...could be wrong though.
6. Since you have full control I would put up a base board about 6 inches on the walls then go carpet wainscot to control the sound.
7. Since there isn't much light anyway you will want to go flat paint if possible or eggshell at the most since your room will want to bounce the light from that big screen around.
8. 7 foot ceilings I would definitely paint them a dark color since you can.

That's all I got and some of that may be really wrong. But good luck.


Haha, I was waiting for comments on the picture, it's actually turned sideways, I just forgot to rotate it- it's strait up and down, I didn't miss the stud but I had to screw in in parts, and then pull screws after new ones were in to keep sucking it in.

As for the drywall/mold issue -it's not really an issue since none of the walls in the basement are drywall. The water got to a depth of 1/2 inch, everything was professionally dried inspected etc. (it's also the reason a stud finder won't work on these walls, despite me having a very nice one )

I appreciate the other tips!
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post #5 of 33
10/13/10 at 4:34pm
Cool glad you got a bit of a sense of humor too. I think both you and I (read my stupid idea post) are on the start of something we may need humor through.
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post #6 of 33
10/16/10 at 6:38am
Quote:
Originally Posted by iced98lx View Post

I have what some would call an ideal situation. I am single, and my girlfriend lives 4 hours away and loves watching movies. She's all for me building a theatre, as long as it's not on the weekends when she's monopolizing my time .

Hah, what make you think us married guys are going to help you given that situation.
Quote:


Room Demensions: 12x16x7 (PJ will be shooting the 16 direction)

PJ: Optima HD 20 mounted 14.5 foot back

Ambient light: Hardly any, tiny window in room which can & will be blacked out, stairs leading down to room let very little light, no ambient light hitting screen wall.

Proposed screen size: 123 inches diag (60 inches high)

This leaves the screen less than a foot from the floor, is that too little? (is my screen too big?)

Screen material: WilsonArt DW on 1/2 inch MDF

biggest concern is the 7 foot ceilings, with projector mount drop, meaning my screen will be nearly perfectly centered from floor to ceiling, is that going to b acceptable? I'm thinking it's okay, but i'm also thinking "Hells yes, huge screen!!!" so I could have cloudy judgement

Not much ambient light so you can go with a white or off-white (slightly grey) screen with no problem. The HD20 is plenty bright.

I went from a 100" to 120" to 144" screen--have a 7.5 foot ceiling. At the seating distance, 123" will be perfect and center it on the wall. Your eye level will be just below center--that's where it should be.

One problem might be working speakers around it, but I have all my main speakers--left, center, right on the floor under the screen and not one person has said they feel like the sound is coming from the floor. If it is a problem, then tip the speakers up a little.

Quote:


The second part of all this, is do you all have any paint color suggestions, lighting suggestions etc? I've got full control over the room, and right now it needs help. It's got two very cheap round fixtures in the center of the room and one smaller round fixture which is supposed to look like it's at the bottom of the stairs.. my plan is to remove the fixture closest to the screen completely, replace with a sconce or two on the wall, and replace the 2nd centered round light (which is nearly directly over where the seating will be) with track lighting.

If this is a dedicated theater and no other usage, then you can go dark--grey to black ceilings and dark tan walls for example. If used for other things, then you will regret the dark ceilings--go tan or light grey all around.

Yes, use sconces on either side of the screen for light during seating, etc. But have a switch nearby. Same with track lighting. If you can't recess it, then get cans that direct the lighting down into the seating area. This way someone can read and you can still watch a decent high contrast image. Also, have dimmable light controls near the seating (or remote control even better). Again if you use the room for other get togethers, then some center lighting to light up the room is still an option.

Get input from your significant other, they have a knack for the social setting view of things... like what furniture and carpets, etc.

As for painting the screen, read the Beginner's DIY thread at the top of the forum first if you haven't already...

Hope this helps...
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post #7 of 33
10/18/10 at 9:42am
Thread Starter 
WOW thanks for the all the suggestions! I appreciate them all very much and between this thread and all the stuff i've been reading I'm really getting excited to get this project rocking. I got my projector Friday and got back to town sunday and hooked it up- even shooting at a highly textured yellow wall the image was amazing! Makes me super excited to get a screen and get mounting. I ordered a 5x12 of Wilsonart Designer White from a place local for $138, and they have it in stock so i can pick it up when I make the 20 min drive to the city. Pretty excited, just need to get a backer board (1/2 inch mdf is the plan, any thoughts?) and get it mounted (3M spray adhesive is the plan, any thoughts?)
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post #8 of 33
10/19/10 at 1:44pm
Thread Starter 
First coat on the ceiling, will post pics tomorrow after the 2nd coat goes on tonight and I trim for first coat on the walls. Went with a dark grey-blue ceiling and a darker but richer blue for the walls, should be nice and dark when the lights go down.
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post #9 of 33
10/19/10 at 7:12pm
search: wilsonart mounting, you'll get lots of ideas such as this:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/archi...t-1228902.html

It requires a good substrate as bends and bows will cause some shine. 1/2 inch mdf sounds like a minimum to me--will be heavy though. Again, check out the search above for ideas.

Sounds like you made your color choice. Should be nice and dark down there.
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post #10 of 33
10/19/10 at 9:22pm
Thread Starter 
threed123 - thanks for the link!

Here's an update:
snapped some pics before the nyquil takes over- still battling a cold while doing this lol






Still drying on the walls so you can see some shine in some areas (will be flat when dry) one more coat on the walls and it'll darken up a bit too. It's a very dark blue with one shade lighter on the ceiling, so it's darker than it appears in the pictures actually. Will completely go away when the lights are off.

Speaking of lights you can see I've got the rear light out and an old work box in with drywall repaired, will add 2nd old work box later (am waiting to see if I can use a double gang or need two boxes with the HDMI wall plate I ordered) and the cable is ready to be back pulled when it arrives hopefully thursday.

Screen material is ready to be picked up at forma-top, so will snag that either tomorrow if I get a chance before bowling, or thursday. Either way need to grab the backer board to go with it, then will mount and hang the screen.

The projector mount, hdmi plates, and cabling arrive thursday the way it looks, so hopefully friday night I'll be wrapping things up for phase one and can focus on getting the little bedroom down there painted and carpeted before the party. Only thing I'm not sure on is what i'm going to put the ps3/xbox360/reciever on until I cut in my built in cabinets. Might have to get ambitious next week and get those built...
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post #11 of 33
10/20/10 at 5:32am
Color scheme looks good. Anxious to see your screen go up and first light...
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post #12 of 33
10/20/10 at 3:13pm
Thread Starter 
screen arrived home




Finally decided to mount it on a 1x4 frame of hard wood and make it so it can be removed from the wall in case I want to.... enhance it with some paint later. the frame will leave 2 inches on each side of the laminate hanging off, for a floating look , and also somewhere to mount back lighting. Trying to get away with not having a border, we'll see if it works, if not I'll build a border lol.

I had a scrap off the end they cut off of the 5x12 sheet so I propped it up and shot the pj at it, what a difference! Can't wait to get this thing built.

Also, wall plates and pj mount delayed in shipping won't be here till monday Oh well, still time to get all my loose ends tied up before the halloween party on the 30th.
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post #13 of 33
10/20/10 at 3:25pm
Problem with no border is you always have some slight off screen image spillover on the wall. As long as the wall absorbs it--okay, but usually not unless you use some black velvet tape behind the screen. That will actually help promote a 3D off-the-wall screen experience as it will absorb the light and still provide a screen mask. Just a thought. I'd try without it first, though. As for the wood frame. It will be very important that the material is "stretched" on the frame, so lay the wilsonart on a flat surface--let sit for several days until the roll comes out--or reverse roll for a while, spray the adhesive on the wood frame and lay the frame on the wilsonart. If you try to put the wilsonart on the frame (which is what seems obvious--e.g. lay the frame down, spray adhesive, then unroll the screen over it), you might get sagging. Make sure you use kiln dried wood from HD, otherwise, when it dries, it will shrink and cause warping.

If you are using contact cement, you'll need to put cement on the wilsonart and the frame, of course. Draw a pencil outline of the screen on the wilsonart first as a guide to where to put the cement.
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post #14 of 33
10/20/10 at 7:47pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by threed123 View Post

Problem with no border is you always have some slight off screen image spillover on the wall. As long as the wall absorbs it--okay, but usually not unless you use some black velvet tape behind the screen. That will actually help promote a 3D off-the-wall screen experience as it will absorb the light and still provide a screen mask. Just a thought. I'd try without it first, though. As for the wood frame. It will be very important that the material is "stretched" on the frame, so lay the wilsonart on a flat surface--let sit for several days until the roll comes out--or reverse roll for a while, spray the adhesive on the wood frame and lay the frame on the wilsonart. If you try to put the wilsonart on the frame (which is what seems obvious--e.g. lay the frame down, spray adhesive, then unroll the screen over it), you might get sagging. Make sure you use kiln dried wood from HD, otherwise, when it dries, it will shrink and cause warping.

If you are using contact cement, you'll need to put cement on the wilsonart and the frame, of course. Draw a pencil outline of the screen on the wilsonart first as a guide to where to put the cement.


Thanks for the tips again man, I'll be sure and follow the tip in laying the frame on the laminate vs the other way round. Will give the no border a shot and see how it goes. Super excited to get this thing wrapped up.

Certainly looks big enough on the floor- (5 foot the shot way)

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post #15 of 33
10/21/10 at 5:30pm
Thread Starter 
frame built for screen, contact cemented onto screen...

(contact cement = nasty ****)

layin down contact cement:



Glued and weighted:

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post #16 of 33
10/21/10 at 5:53pm
Yup, that does look nice!
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post #17 of 33
10/21/10 at 6:53pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by threed123 View Post

Yup, that does look nice!

Yea not sure how the contact cement will do- I wasn't sure how much is 'enough' so it was a little thinner on the frame, then I put it on a little thicker on the screen as it seemed to soak in a lot on the frame..

Frame is kiln dried premium pine from HD - kind of pricey, but for the wood, 20 of the metal joiners, screws, quart of contact cement, eye hooks and hooks to hang it on the wall - $110. So, right under $250 @ ~$248 for a 124 inch screen.

Finishing 2nd coat on the walls right now, then will hang the screen tomorrow. HDMI wall plates and cabling arrive Monday now (Thanks UPS! ). Got my lighting figured out and 1/2 bought, will be black track lighting down each side with a couple track cans pointing at the outside wall and a couple pointing into the center on each track. Tough to find non-halogen, dimmable track light cans tho- aren't a lot of just generic ones anymore.
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post #18 of 33
10/22/10 at 2:48pm
Thread Starter 
I got a little ambitious with the screen size I think..





screen going up tonight, obviously can't wait to get it up and get clear snaps of how it looks.
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post #19 of 33
10/24/10 at 11:27am
Trust me, you will like the size...how did the wilsonart surface look--smooth and straight--looks good from the pics above.
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post #20 of 33
10/25/10 at 8:56am
Thread Starter 
Wislonart is fine, mounting on the frame is a compromise. Not perfectly flat, has VERY slight sagging. Screen is up, need to do some tweaking and later the ceiling mount for the projector comes. It turned out AWESOME and I wouldn't go any smaller. If I had it to do all over again, I'd build a frame on the wall, mount MDF to the frame get it perfectly flat then glue the laminate to it. The floating screen does look very good, and the light diffusion off the edge isn't an issue. I will get full pictures including screen shots shortly.
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post #21 of 33
10/25/10 at 3:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by iced98lx View Post

Wislonart is fine, mounting on the frame is a compromise. Not perfectly flat, has VERY slight sagging.

Yeah, I didn't catch it before, but I noticed you had the Wilsonart face down on carpet (probably padded). By putting pressure on the frame, it allowed the non-frame areas to slightly bow up--my guess. I doubt if you'll notice it though...unless you go for a higher gain finish.
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post #22 of 33
11/6/10 at 6:21am
Iced: How did you end up--you should be enjoying a great picture by now?
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post #23 of 33
11/6/10 at 2:44pm
Just wondering why you chose wilsonart board rather than mounting a frame and using blackout cloth. Would be great if you could share your findings on that.

Thanks,

Ben
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post #24 of 33
11/7/10 at 7:40am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benix View Post

Just wondering why you chose wilsonart board rather than mounting a frame and using blackout cloth. Would be great if you could share your findings on that.

Thanks,

Ben

I'm sure he will, but let me interject;

Wilson Art DW has a surface that is leaps and bounds better "as is" than BOC could ever hope to be. And should it ever be determined to need to be coated with a Paint, it's far more suitable a surface for that intent as well.

If Sintra could come in 12' lengths, that would give WA-DW a run for the Money as far as any larger "painted" surface. But as for Hang-n-Shoot potential for those with Uber Contrast PJs and totally controlled lighting, it's (WA-DW) always gonna be a decisive winner.

PS. Only Do-Able Board can be construed as being a better, and more cost effective material than WA-DW for "Hang-n-Shoot". However it's distribution is limited to the Western 1/3 of the US, and even there it's size is limited to 4' x 8'.
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post #25 of 33
12/8/10 at 6:48pm
Thread Starter 
First, sorry I let this thread hang- I got it up and threw a helluva party on Halloween where the screen got plenty of use.

The screen has flaws- but only because of the green-ness of the builder.

First, the top and bottom edges are curved VERY slightly (my frame doesn't run all the way to the edge)

As pointed out I assmbled on padded carpet: there is VERY slight bowing in the screen between supports (have to be at a 90 degree angle to see them)

neither of these take away from the joy I get watching the screen- it's AWESOME.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

I'm sure he will, but let me interject;

Wilson Art DW has a surface that is leaps and bounds better "as is" than BOC could ever hope to be. And should it ever be determined to need to be coated with a Paint, it's far more suitable a surface for that intent as well.

If Sintra could come in 12' lengths, that would give WA-DW a run for the Money as far as any larger "painted" surface. But as for Hang-n-Shoot potential for those with Uber Contrast PJs and totally controlled lighting, it's (WA-DW) always gonna be a decisive winner.

PS. Only Do-Able Board can be construed as being a better, and more cost effective material than WA-DW for "Hang-n-Shoot". However it's distribution is limited to the Western 1/3 of the US, and even there it's size is limited to 4' x 8'.

This is 100% the reason. I didn't want to play with paint and stretching yet. I'm sure I will when things calm down and I have more time and energy and want to 'start again' on the screen, but I wanted to get it done (CHEAPLY too) so I could see if I was going to use the room as much as I thought I would, WA-DW let me hang, and use for about $250 into the screen.

I am very happy with the screen, and super excited to keep going on my home theater, it's basically just missing flooring right now.

I will post some pictures as soon as I get the room cleaned up and presentable, just installed can lights tonight.
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post #26 of 33
12/9/10 at 11:40am
Thread Starter 
Okay a couple pictures:

with 1/2 the can lights on (bought a crap ton of different bulbs and settled on these but need to go back and get enough for the rest of the cans)



Now, lights off- showing SD content (need to get some HD stuff qued up) with no lights on in the room. This is at 1:30 in the afternoon with light pouring in from upstairs.



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post #27 of 33
12/9/10 at 11:58am
Thread Starter 
a special thanks is sent to everyone here- I read so many threads my head spun for weeks before starting this. The original plan was to build in shelves on each side of the screen (I have dead space behind I can use) but I got a little... ambitious with the screen size. I'm going to build a very low profile shelf unit for below the screen that houses the receiver game systems etc on each side and the center channel in the middle.
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post #28 of 33
12/9/10 at 4:48pm
Don't just love the fact you stuck with a bigger screen size? Looking good--hey how about some pics of that Halloween party
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post #29 of 33
12/9/10 at 6:06pm
WHOA!!


I'll be deciding and taping off my screen painted wall on Saturday.

My wall is 11' w and my seating is at 12' with 20' length.

124'' seems HUGE.

I was thinking 96''?

I don't know.
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post #30 of 33
12/9/10 at 7:23pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by threed123 View Post

Don't just love the fact you stuck with a bigger screen size? Looking good--hey how about some pics of that Halloween party

Halloween party got epic, we used the screen for viz's for the music- it was loud and the keg was empty in the morning

I LOVE that I stuck it out on the huge screen size- super immersive in gran tourismo 5.

Quote:
Originally Posted by expertmech View Post

WHOA!!


I'll be deciding and taping off my screen painted wall on Saturday.

My wall is 11' w and my seating is at 12' with 20' length.

124'' seems HUGE.

I was thinking 96''?

I don't know.

124 is HUGE. because I only have 7 foot ceilings it DOMINATES the room. There is no question this room was built primarily for the screen.

Here was my deciding factor: I got the 12 foot long laminate piece from the counter top place in town- they offered to cut it to whatever I wanted. I said "Might as well go as big as I can, can always cut it down" The screen ended up being 126 inches diag, and I wouldn't make it any smaller!!

I've got all the bulbs in and the cans aimed so I'll take a ton more pics tonight and post them shortly with some HD content on the screen- just stoked at how it's turning out.
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