Very cool. Whats up with the perforated boards? Haven't seen that around here?
Is that an Aussie thing? Does it have the potential to mess with the acoustics? (thinkking GG and dual layer drywall)...
Based on some of Dennis' previous comments the pegboard will act as a low pass filter allowing the insulation to do it's job absorbing relatively more bass than the highs than it would without the holes. Are you using this to cover the soffits only?
What's the thickness of the pegboard?
Great thread, try not to divulge too many secrets. Yeah right
Based on some of Dennis' previous comments the pegboard will act as a low pass filter allowing the insulation to do it's job absorbing relatively more bass than the highs than it would without the holes. Are you using this to cover the soffits only?
What's the thickness of the pegboard?
Great thread, try not to divulge too many secrets. Yeah right
I will have to check what the thickness is. And the peg board will go on certain places on the walls specified by Dennis.
I think that it would be too hard to give away any secrets, b/c every room is different and needs certain acoustical treatment placed for that specific room.
I don't think so. The Perf-sorber looks like OC 703 with holes in it. That just looks like pegboard.
Yes it is just pegboard, and although that would have been ideal I am sure the designs have compensated for what may be lacking by just using pegboard. Lucky for me I just passed the designs onto my engineer and let her decipher what needs to be done and where.
I think that it would be too hard to give away any secrets, b/c every room is different and needs certain acoustical treatment placed for that specific room.
Agreed, but seeing some of the tools used is educational.
Very nice. It appears the baffle wall is forward leaning by a few degrees, how does that work into the plan?
Thanks,
Dennis specifically designed the baffle wall to lean a certain angle. I am assuming that this will ensure the speakers are aimed at the listening position.
A quick pic of the the two subs that will be going in below the LCR's and above the stage in the baffle wall. With both speakers in place I will only have 2mm clearance. Talk about cutting it close!!!
Another shot of the hole in the baffle wall where they will be layed on their sides and slid in.
What is the width of the opening where the baffle wall is and how far past it does the screen width go?
And is the equipment going between the 2 doors?
Looking good so far.
What is the width of the opening where the baffle wall is and how far past it does the screen width go?
And is the equipment going between the 2 doors?
Looking good so far.
I don't know exactly, so I will measure it up (screen and hole) and give you the exact dimensions of the hole and how far past the Left and Right speakers the screen goes.
What is the width of the opening where the baffle wall is and how far past it does the screen width go?
And is the equipment going between the 2 doors?
Looking good so far.
Ok , I measured the opening and it is a little over 108". The screen will go 26" further on each side. Screen will be about 160" wide.
That's about the maximum screen size that will fit in there then.
Hope that Vango will light that up.
Amazingly . it is the height that is limiting screen size. I would have gone bigger, but viewing eye level would be just above center and I am aiming to get it just below center.
As for the Vango lighting up the screen, I had a makeshift screen that I made out of a big piece of white bed sheet material and some wood that was 165" wide after trying smaller sizes and it lit it up with no problem. I will be going with a positive gain screen so it should be brighter than the bed sheet. So I don't see any problem at all. One thing about the LED PJ's is that they look much brighter for some reason.
Amazingly . it is the height that is limiting screen size. I would have gone bigger, but viewing eye level would be just above center and I am aiming to get it just below center.
As for the Vango lighting up the screen, I had a makeshift screen that I made out of a big piece of white bed sheet material and some wood that was 165" wide after trying smaller sizes and it lit it up with no problem. I will be going with a positive gain screen so it should be brighter than the bed sheet. So I don't see any problem at all. One thing about the LED PJ's is that they look much brighter for some reason.
I use the screen you are talking about.
Be aware that weave may slightly visible from your seating distance on very bright scenes. Sometime I see it if I'm looking but then I forget about it and I don't notice it.
I will probably use it again because there is not much else DIY out there.
I use the screen you are talking about.
Be aware that weave may slightly visible from your seating distance on very bright scenes. Sometime I see it if I'm looking but then I forget about it and I don't notice it.
I will probably use it again because there is not much else DIY out there.
Really? Even at 12.5 ft distance from the screen? I have not opened and looked at the material yet. What seating distance do you have?
Also, is it true to its 1.2 gain spec or is it actually lower? If this screen does not work out I was thinking of going with the new SMX AT screen. But b/c at the time it was not released I decided to go DIY for the time being. Also , once the DLP 4K PJ's start rolling out I would eventually want to change one of them. But , again they are still in early stages and I am sure that I will have to wait a little longer before I could go that route. Anyways, I am not going to change PJ's anytime soon, as I am liking what I see with the LED and not to mention the fact that these 4K PJ's could be rather pricey when first released. Hopefully they will get down below $50K or less.
That's about the maximum screen size that will fit in there then.
I just wanted to add that with a screen width of about 160" wide I should stay right on the Limit that Dennis suggests as to not go any bigger than 80% of the room width.
Really? Even at 12.5 ft distance from the screen? I have not opened and looked at the material yet. What seating distance do you have?
Also, is it true to its 1.2 gain spec or is it actually lower? If this screen does not work out I was thinking of going with the new SMX AT screen. But b/c at the time it was not released I decided to go DIY for the time being. Also , once the DLP 4K PJ's start rolling out I would eventually want to change one of them. But , again they are still in early stages and I am sure that I will have to wait a little longer before I could go that route. Anyways, I am not going to change PJ's anytime soon, as I am liking what I see with the LED and not to mention the fact that these 4K PJ's could be rather pricey when first released. Hopefully they will get down below $50K or less.
I'm at about 11"(3.3m) and 17"(5.1m).
Don't be to worried you can only see it on real bright scenes like in a movie like ice age where there is a lot of full white scenes.
I'm building/buying another house and I will having the first row a bit further back next time probably similar to you at 3.8m-4m and second row 5.9m-6.1m. I don't think I will see it from the second row but maybe slightly from the first.