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JapanDave dedicated theater build. - Page 2

post #31 of 574
I don't think so. The Perf-sorber looks like OC 703 with holes in it. That just looks like pegboard.
post #32 of 574
Quote:
Originally Posted by FusionRx View Post

Very cool. Whats up with the perforated boards? Haven't seen that around here?

Is that an Aussie thing? Does it have the potential to mess with the acoustics? (thinkking GG and dual layer drywall)...

Based on some of Dennis' previous comments the pegboard will act as a low pass filter allowing the insulation to do it's job absorbing relatively more bass than the highs than it would without the holes. Are you using this to cover the soffits only?

What's the thickness of the pegboard?

Great thread, try not to divulge too many secrets. Yeah right
post #33 of 574
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hughman View Post

Based on some of Dennis' previous comments the pegboard will act as a low pass filter allowing the insulation to do it's job absorbing relatively more bass than the highs than it would without the holes. Are you using this to cover the soffits only?

What's the thickness of the pegboard?

Great thread, try not to divulge too many secrets. Yeah right

I will have to check what the thickness is. And the peg board will go on certain places on the walls specified by Dennis.

I think that it would be too hard to give away any secrets, b/c every room is different and needs certain acoustical treatment placed for that specific room.
post #34 of 574
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyng_fool View Post

I don't think so. The Perf-sorber looks like OC 703 with holes in it. That just looks like pegboard.

Yes it is just pegboard, and although that would have been ideal I am sure the designs have compensated for what may be lacking by just using pegboard. Lucky for me I just passed the designs onto my engineer and let her decipher what needs to be done and where.
post #35 of 574
Quote:
Originally Posted by JapanDave View Post

I think that it would be too hard to give away any secrets, b/c every room is different and needs certain acoustical treatment placed for that specific room.

Agreed, but seeing some of the tools used is educational.
post #36 of 574
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hughman View Post

Agreed, but seeing some of the tools used is educational.

I hear that.

More pics added at the start of the thread of before the build.
post #37 of 574
I realized the peg board was peg board, but thought the perf-sorber went behind it. My mistake
post #38 of 574
Thread Starter 
Here is some conduits going under the floor, so I will have power and Internet access from the main seating position.



post #39 of 574
Thread Starter 
More pics

The column for the speakers.


The front wall where the down lights will put put in.


Another pic of the down lights,


Apic of the baffle wall.


Another pic of the front wall where the catalysts and Terraform XL's will go.


My son wanting to get into the action,
post #40 of 574
Very nice. It appears the baffle wall is forward leaning by a few degrees, how does that work into the plan?
post #41 of 574
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hughman View Post

Very nice. It appears the baffle wall is forward leaning by a few degrees, how does that work into the plan?

Thanks,
Dennis specifically designed the baffle wall to lean a certain angle. I am assuming that this will ensure the speakers are aimed at the listening position.
post #42 of 574
Thread Starter 
A quick pic of the the two subs that will be going in below the LCR's and above the stage in the baffle wall. With both speakers in place I will only have 2mm clearance. Talk about cutting it close!!!









Another shot of the hole in the baffle wall where they will be layed on their sides and slid in.
post #43 of 574
Great job!

Stuff me those subs are HUGE! what are they?
post #44 of 574
The subs really aren't that big, Mark's a well proportioned midget and was actually cast as Deep Roys understudy in Charlie and the Chocolate Factory.
post #45 of 574
What is the width of the opening where the baffle wall is and how far past it does the screen width go?
And is the equipment going between the 2 doors?
Looking good so far.
post #46 of 574
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hughman View Post

The subs really aren't that big, Mark's a well proportioned midget and was actually cast as Deep Roys understudy in Charlie and the Chocolate Factory.

As I wrote that I went back and looked at him......I didn't want to pick fun at his height

Still what are they?
post #47 of 574
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elill View Post

Great job!

Stuff me those subs are HUGE! what are they?

They are called Terraform XL's, built by Mark Seaton. Seaton Sound
post #48 of 574
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by crabra View Post

What is the width of the opening where the baffle wall is and how far past it does the screen width go?
And is the equipment going between the 2 doors?
Looking good so far.

I don't know exactly, so I will measure it up (screen and hole) and give you the exact dimensions of the hole and how far past the Left and Right speakers the screen goes.
post #49 of 574
Thread Starter 
8 dedicated 20A circuits,



I had to drill a few holes in the concrete to allow the conduits to pass through, This is right where the equipment rack will be.



Some more conduits.

post #50 of 574
Amazing thread.
Thanks for the pics.

Mike
post #51 of 574
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by crabra View Post

What is the width of the opening where the baffle wall is and how far past it does the screen width go?
And is the equipment going between the 2 doors?
Looking good so far.

Ok , I measured the opening and it is a little over 108". The screen will go 26" further on each side. Screen will be about 160" wide.
post #52 of 574
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_WI View Post

Amazing thread.
Thanks for the pics.

Mike

Thanks Mike.

Crabra , I forgot to answer your other question. The equipment rack will go here at the back of the room.

post #53 of 574
Thread Starter 
The frames for the acoustic panels ready to go.







The MDF put up on the baffle wall.





The last of the stage being finished.

post #54 of 574
Quote:
Originally Posted by JapanDave View Post

Ok , I measured the opening and it is a little over 108". The screen will go 26" further on each side. Screen will be about 160" wide.

That's about the maximum screen size that will fit in there then.
Hope that Vango will light that up.
post #55 of 574
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by crabra View Post

That's about the maximum screen size that will fit in there then.
Hope that Vango will light that up.

Amazingly . it is the height that is limiting screen size. I would have gone bigger, but viewing eye level would be just above center and I am aiming to get it just below center.

As for the Vango lighting up the screen, I had a makeshift screen that I made out of a big piece of white bed sheet material and some wood that was 165" wide after trying smaller sizes and it lit it up with no problem. I will be going with a positive gain screen so it should be brighter than the bed sheet. So I don't see any problem at all. One thing about the LED PJ's is that they look much brighter for some reason.
post #56 of 574
Quote:
Originally Posted by JapanDave View Post

Amazingly . it is the height that is limiting screen size. I would have gone bigger, but viewing eye level would be just above center and I am aiming to get it just below center.

As for the Vango lighting up the screen, I had a makeshift screen that I made out of a big piece of white bed sheet material and some wood that was 165" wide after trying smaller sizes and it lit it up with no problem. I will be going with a positive gain screen so it should be brighter than the bed sheet. So I don't see any problem at all. One thing about the LED PJ's is that they look much brighter for some reason.

I use the screen you are talking about.
Be aware that weave may slightly visible from your seating distance on very bright scenes. Sometime I see it if I'm looking but then I forget about it and I don't notice it.
I will probably use it again because there is not much else DIY out there.
post #57 of 574
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by crabra View Post

I use the screen you are talking about.
Be aware that weave may slightly visible from your seating distance on very bright scenes. Sometime I see it if I'm looking but then I forget about it and I don't notice it.
I will probably use it again because there is not much else DIY out there.

Really? Even at 12.5 ft distance from the screen? I have not opened and looked at the material yet. What seating distance do you have?

Also, is it true to its 1.2 gain spec or is it actually lower? If this screen does not work out I was thinking of going with the new SMX AT screen. But b/c at the time it was not released I decided to go DIY for the time being. Also , once the DLP 4K PJ's start rolling out I would eventually want to change one of them. But , again they are still in early stages and I am sure that I will have to wait a little longer before I could go that route. Anyways, I am not going to change PJ's anytime soon, as I am liking what I see with the LED and not to mention the fact that these 4K PJ's could be rather pricey when first released. Hopefully they will get down below $50K or less.
post #58 of 574
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by crabra View Post

That's about the maximum screen size that will fit in there then.

I just wanted to add that with a screen width of about 160" wide I should stay right on the Limit that Dennis suggests as to not go any bigger than 80% of the room width.
post #59 of 574
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dixon View Post

I realized the peg board was peg board, but thought the perf-sorber went behind it. My mistake

Dixon, I forgot the mention that in certain areas I will be using the Quest Perf-sorber, but I will have to check the plans again to see where.
post #60 of 574
Quote:
Originally Posted by JapanDave View Post

Really? Even at 12.5 ft distance from the screen? I have not opened and looked at the material yet. What seating distance do you have?

Also, is it true to its 1.2 gain spec or is it actually lower? If this screen does not work out I was thinking of going with the new SMX AT screen. But b/c at the time it was not released I decided to go DIY for the time being. Also , once the DLP 4K PJ's start rolling out I would eventually want to change one of them. But , again they are still in early stages and I am sure that I will have to wait a little longer before I could go that route. Anyways, I am not going to change PJ's anytime soon, as I am liking what I see with the LED and not to mention the fact that these 4K PJ's could be rather pricey when first released. Hopefully they will get down below $50K or less.

I'm at about 11"(3.3m) and 17"(5.1m).
Don't be to worried you can only see it on real bright scenes like in a movie like ice age where there is a lot of full white scenes.
I'm building/buying another house and I will having the first row a bit further back next time probably similar to you at 3.8m-4m and second row 5.9m-6.1m. I don't think I will see it from the second row but maybe slightly from the first.
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