JapanDave dedicated theater build. - Page 3

Some pics of the wood work around the false entrance area.



Taken from the other side.



The column right next to the false entrance.


The rear speakers and there columns,



A pic of one of the side speaker columns.



One of the columns that won't have a speaker in it. You can see the hole in the solid concrete wall for the air conditioner unit.



The stage moving along slowly,

I believe the columns are venered, but the trim aroun the door, also the trim running around the floor where the carpet will meet the wall and the trim running around the room in the second pic is some kind of wood with a deep stain. As you can see in this first shot, the particle board is glued to the wood. Real wood here is scarce and very expensive, you guys don't realise how lucky you are.

I believe it is veneer. BTW, they are not scratches. There is a lot of dust flying around the room and it looks like someone how brushed up against it to make those marks. Check out the dust on the back cabinet.



I don't know how it is going to be finished, I will have to consult with the cabinet makers working on them.

I think the dust is from the concrete. So far I have had 8 X 3" diameter holes drilled into the walls and at 10-12" thick for each wall, that is a lot of dust flying around. Even though they do use water to try to stop this some of it ecapes.

Thanks!

Ha,Ha. That would pose some problems I am for sure.

Ok, the first of the fabric has gone up in the corners.



Some closer pics,





The first of the acustic panels being prepped, These will have OC 703 inserted into them and placed on the wall.


This is what they will look like on the wall before the fabric is applied,



Some more acoustic panels,

Wow, that would great! He would have free accommodation of coarse.

Well I have been searching for AV racks and due to where mine will go, I will be needing a pull-out rack of some sort. I have looked at these from Holovision,




But I am starting to think that I am better off building one myself to tie in with the wood that will be in the room.

I have being looking at the Middle Atlantic pull out rack. But I can't find any dimensions on how much room you need for it? I will check out your thread now.

Thanks very much for the link. That is what I was looking for.

Thanks,
We are lucky and have about a 4,000 sq/ft home here not including the garage(I hope my math is right), but I hear you house sizes. I think the average is about 1,000 sq/ft. Our house is solid concrete through out, walls ,floors, ceiling and roof. It is two levels with a basement (something that is very rare in Japan). It has to be built like this to withstand these rotten earthquakes. And building materials are usually 3 times the price of the US, due to a lot of the materials being imported (not much natural resources here)

That was actually another option that was suggested to me and I am going to look into it.

Some more updates.

This is a pic of where the down lights will go in the sofit.



Getting some glass wool up under the sofits.



First of the fabric going on the bottom of the sofits. The fabric is brown color.



The first of the wall treatments in place and ready for covering. BTW that plastic cover the coner bass trap is so the material does not get dust on it.

Sorry, those pics are misleading. those holes will be cut right through to the other side, so there will be no glass wool left in the hole, then the lights will be mounted.

The room is in the basement of the house. The whole house is built from 10" solid concrete, walls, floors, ceilings and roof. I am no expert, but I don't think much sound is going to travel through the walls from speakers. I know if you take a hammer drill to a wall you can hear it in another part of the house, but since the baffle wall and stage are pretty well decoupled from the concrete I don't think much sound will travel through the walls that way.

I guess I will have to wait and see. Maybe an expert could chime in?

Yes, the structure is clearly overkill, but it makes it very safe place to be for earthquakes. I believe there are two ways of building here, one is to have the structure move with the earthquake and absorb the energy and the other is to just use brute force and design a structure that won't fail under even the most extreme conditions. The latter is how our house was built, b/c in the end the soild structure will be strongest. (I am talking about homes here) When you start to discuss about multi stories buildings , obviously a combination of both of the above is needed and more.

I am no engineer and I am just stating what was told to me in its simplest form. Obviously there are many variables to consider when discussing things like this. I am over simplifying the above explanation I know.

I came across this formula,

R=20 log(fm)-47dB

f is the frequency of the incident sound.
m is the mass of the wall measured in kg per square metre.
R is the Sound Reduction Index (in dBs), we are trying to calculate.

If I could figure out how to use it, I would be able to see how well sound proofed it will be.