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The NEW Gaming Headset/Headphone Topic! (REQUEST STICKY PLZ) - Page 174

post #5191 of 5434
Hoping my cousin can get them really cheap. She works for Philips and gets products I believe for cost. When I get them depends on how much I have to pay, lol. MLE you have created a monster! Thanks by the way. Enjoying gaming so much more since I started with the AX720s. Gave them to my cousin who uses his TV for sound. Haven't gotten feed back from him yet.
post #5192 of 5434
Does anyone who owns Warheads have any info on what makes the connectivity break down occasionally, and what to do about it?

I've only had them like 2 weeks, and while they are really nice when they work, it's annoying when I lose all audio and have to reboot the transmitter like 3 times to get the connection back, or the Dolby Digital EX light refuses to be lit which lowers the quality of the sound and only after some random rebooting of everything including the 360 do all the lights stay lit.

I never used headphones for gaming before. I have no major issues with sound, since when I'm not chatting I run them at a decently loud level and I like the way they help hear small sounds, like the chirp in Fuse when you are near something to pick up. I don't need suggestions for replacements, just an idea if the connectivity issues will cascade into failure or if they eventually settle down.

CowBoom (Best Buy, I believe) had them for $170, so I sprung the $20 for their replacement warranty in hopes that would be faster than the manufacturer's warranty replacement if they broke or something. I am thrilled with just getting up and walking away from the controller without taking off the wired headset, and don't want to go back. Although the POP you get when the battery drops dead is an incentive to change the battery daily no matter how much seems left. Two bars didn't last as long as I though they would...
post #5193 of 5434
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikepaul View Post

Does anyone who owns Warheads have any info on what makes the connectivity break down occasionally, and what to do about it?

I've only had them like 2 weeks, and while they are really nice when they work, it's annoying when I lose all audio and have to reboot the transmitter like 3 times to get the connection back, or the Dolby Digital EX light refuses to be lit which lowers the quality of the sound and only after some random rebooting of everything including the 360 do all the lights stay lit.

I never used headphones for gaming before. I have no major issues with sound, since when I'm not chatting I run them at a decently loud level and I like the way they help hear small sounds, like the chirp in Fuse when you are near something to pick up. I don't need suggestions for replacements, just an idea if the connectivity issues will cascade into failure or if they eventually settle down.

CowBoom (Best Buy, I believe) had them for $170, so I sprung the $20 for their replacement warranty in hopes that would be faster than the manufacturer's warranty replacement if they broke or something. I am thrilled with just getting up and walking away from the controller without taking off the wired headset, and don't want to go back. Although the POP you get when the battery drops dead is an incentive to change the battery daily no matter how much seems left. Two bars didn't last as long as I though they would...

Stupid question but are you sure you've got them set up correctly? If your EX light isn't coming on, that sounds like a set up problem. If you've got the audio in the 360 menu set at dolby digital 5.1, there shouldn't be a problem. Sometimes when you pick them up, you can accidentally press the audio button on the right ear side and switch it to stereo mode by mistake. Some people have had luck by re-routing the optical cable away from the 360 power brick. Also, I found this(don't know if it'll help your situation): From the Warhead Knowledge base -

I'm getting crackling and/or echoing on my Warhead. How do I fix this?

This might be caused by something in the Xbox 360 system cache. Try clearing the system cache to fix these issues. To clear the system cache do the following:

From the Xbox 360 dashboard press the Xbox guide button on your Xbox 360 controller
Go to the Settings tab
Select System Settings
Select Storage
Highlight your Hard Drive and press Y on your Xbox 360 controller
Select Clear System Cache
Select Yes from the popup screen

This will clear the system cache of the Xbox 360.
post #5194 of 5434
Anyone want my PLYR1 for $75+shipping? That's a helluva deal for a Dolby Headphone+wireless+headset...

It retails for $180, so you're essentially getting them for half price. All in one solution with a very likable sound signature. I personally don't have a need for a headset though...
post #5195 of 5434
Quote:
Originally Posted by rightintel View Post

Stupid question but are you sure you've got them set up correctly? If your EX light isn't coming on, that sounds like a set up problem. If you've got the audio in the 360 menu set at dolby digital 5.1, there shouldn't be a problem.
The EX light is on most of the time, except when it isn't. Same for getting audio at all. What it comes down to is, when I put the Warheads on I find out what I'll get. Yesterday was good, no issues at all. No idea yet what today will be like. The short optical cable runs nowhere near a power supply, so I think I'm OK there.

I'll double-check the 360 audio settings, since I never touched those, and if the crackles continue I'll try the cache thing. The number of issues that have "clear the cache" as a possible solution boggle my mind sometimes. Kinda wish updates had one place to live and the 'cache' was another place that cleared itself during idle periods. Ah, well.

Thanks...
post #5196 of 5434
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikepaul View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by rightintel View Post

Stupid question but are you sure you've got them set up correctly? If your EX light isn't coming on, that sounds like a set up problem. If you've got the audio in the 360 menu set at dolby digital 5.1, there shouldn't be a problem.
The EX light is on most of the time, except when it isn't. Same for getting audio at all. What it comes down to is, when I put the Warheads on I find out what I'll get. Yesterday was good, no issues at all. No idea yet what today will be like. The short optical cable runs nowhere near a power supply, so I think I'm OK there.

I'll double-check the 360 audio settings, since I never touched those, and if the crackles continue I'll try the cache thing. The number of issues that have "clear the cache" as a possible solution boggle my mind sometimes. Kinda wish updates had one place to live and the 'cache' was another place that cleared itself during idle periods. Ah, well.

Thanks...

If the 360 wasn't on 5.1 b4(and you haven't since adjusted it), that's probably the source of your problems. You could also try a higher grade optical cable if you get desperate.
post #5197 of 5434
Quote:
Originally Posted by rightintel View Post

If the 360 wasn't on 5.1 b4(and you haven't since adjusted it), that's probably the source of your problems. You could also try a higher grade optical cable if you get desperate.
The 360 was already set to 5.1, so that wasn't it.

Do OEM optical cables have a bad rep? Is this where Monster would earn its keep, providing a more reliable connection? Or if not Monster, some other company that says their cables are worth the money...
post #5198 of 5434
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikepaul View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by rightintel View Post

If the 360 wasn't on 5.1 b4(and you haven't since adjusted it), that's probably the source of your problems. You could also try a higher grade optical cable if you get desperate.
The 360 was already set to 5.1, so that wasn't it.

Do OEM optical cables have a bad rep? Is this where Monster would earn its keep, providing a more reliable connection? Or if not Monster, some other company that says their cables are worth the money...
Well, if it's not the power brick, I doubt another cable would help(unless the cable your using is bad-the standard one is hair-like). Any wi-fi conflicts u can think of? When my Macbook Pro(wireless N) is downloading something, it messes w/ my Warheads...
post #5199 of 5434
Quote:
Originally Posted by rightintel View Post

Well, if it's not the power brick, I doubt another cable would help(unless the cable your using is bad-the standard one is hair-like). Any wi-fi conflicts u can think of? When my Macbook Pro(wireless N) is downloading something, it messes w/ my Warheads...
Well, my 5Ghz 802.11N bridge is like two feet away from the Warhead base station, just on the other side of the 360. Except when it needs to be reset when it hangs up on the access point, it's always on.

There's no interference on a regular basis, or at least nothing like the crackling I get occasionally that is annoying enough to power everything off and try again.

Does the Warhead base station change frequencies on startup, like some random value inside a range, which would occasionally move it into a clash with my networking equipment? That would explain why the issues vary between odd crackling when specific sound effects kick in to total absence of sound to perfectly acceptable performance...
post #5200 of 5434
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikepaul View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by rightintel View Post

Well, if it's not the power brick, I doubt another cable would help(unless the cable your using is bad-the standard one is hair-like). Any wi-fi conflicts u can think of? When my Macbook Pro(wireless N) is downloading something, it messes w/ my Warheads...
Well, my 5Ghz 802.11N bridge is like two feet away from the Warhead base station, just on the other side of the 360. Except when it needs to be reset when it hangs up on the access point, it's always on.

There's no interference on a regular basis, or at least nothing like the crackling I get occasionally that is annoying enough to power everything off and try again.

Does the Warhead base station change frequencies on startup, like some random value inside a range, which would occasionally move it into a clash with my networking equipment? That would explain why the issues vary between odd crackling when specific sound effects kick in to total absence of sound to perfectly acceptable performance...

No idea regarding the frequency change(tech support?). Maybe try bypassing the access point and see? However, as far as the crackling on specific sound effects: Settings/profiles/preferences/voice-set voice AND game volume to 1(make sure "play through headset" is selected). You then adjust the voice/game volumes thru the HEADSET, not the console. I've had many people tell me they've had success w/ this. Hope that helps...
post #5201 of 5434
Quote:
Originally Posted by rightintel View Post

No idea regarding the frequency change(tech support?). Maybe try bypassing the access point and see? However, as far as the crackling on specific sound effects: Settings/profiles/preferences/voice-set voice AND game volume to 1(make sure "play through headset" is selected). You then adjust the voice/game volumes thru the HEADSET, not the console. I've had many people tell me they've had success w/ this. Hope that helps...
The only bypass is the 50' Ethernet cable I have from an apartment long gone by. With another day of no issues, I'm not sure how long I'm willing to trip over it to see if the problems return or not.

Specific effect: in Defiance, I'd drop my Duni in front of me and when I took off, the engine rev would have a static-like crackle to it. No other sounds seemed affected. Reboot everything, no crackle.

Chat audio is hit-and-miss when I can hear one person clearly and others not in the same Party, but my stock 360 headset was no better. That setting is headset only from way back.

If I run into an extended bad period, I'll contact somebody. If I have to use the warranty, I will.

Thanks again...
post #5202 of 5434
I got my Antlion mod mic the other day. Really liking it with my Annies. Voice pickup is great and it is so easy to unattach when not needed. The piece that attaches to the headphones is small and I have it in a location behind the headphone cable so it is unnoticeable. Highly recommended.
post #5203 of 5434
Quote:
Originally Posted by mbyrnes View Post

I got my Antlion mod mic the other day. Really liking it with my Annies. Voice pickup is great and it is so easy to unattach when not needed. The piece that attaches to the headphones is small and I have it in a location behind the headphone cable so it is unnoticeable. Highly recommended.
I've been thinking about getting one for my Annies too. If it's not too much trouble can you post a pic or two of how it looks? Thanks
post #5204 of 5434
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikepaul View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by rightintel View Post

No idea regarding the frequency change(tech support?). Maybe try bypassing the access point and see? However, as far as the crackling on specific sound effects: Settings/profiles/preferences/voice-set voice AND game volume to 1(make sure "play through headset" is selected). You then adjust the voice/game volumes thru the HEADSET, not the console. I've had many people tell me they've had success w/ this. Hope that helps...
The only bypass is the 50' Ethernet cable I have from an apartment long gone by. With another day of no issues, I'm not sure how long I'm willing to trip over it to see if the problems return or not.

Specific effect: in Defiance, I'd drop my Duni in front of me and when I took off, the engine rev would have a static-like crackle to it. No other sounds seemed affected. Reboot everything, no crackle.

Chat audio is hit-and-miss when I can hear one person clearly and others not in the same Party, but my stock 360 headset was no better. That setting is headset only from way back.

If I run into an extended bad period, I'll contact somebody. If I have to use the warranty, I will.

Thanks again...

Actually, I forgot there's separate volume levels for vehicles(and everything else) in the Defiance settings menu. I had the same problem, adjust it from there. When you pick your character(settings).
post #5205 of 5434
Quote:
Originally Posted by rightintel View Post

Actually, I forgot there's separate volume levels for vehicles(and everything else) in the Defiance settings menu. I had the same problem, adjust it from there. When you pick your character(settings).
Once my replacement router shows up and I *hopefully* don't get disconnected from Defiance because of my hardware issues, I'll check that. I'm playing Dishonored right now...
post #5206 of 5434
Recently bought a pair of gaming headset and I went this time with Steelseries and the SIberia V2 the blue frost eiditon like the one in the video
post #5207 of 5434
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikepaul View Post

Once my replacement router shows up and I *hopefully* don't get disconnected from Defiance because of my hardware issues, I'll check that. I'm playing Dishonored right now...
Nah, it's the base station. Booted up to play Dishonored, and the sound of moving the dashboard menu left and right had a buzz to it. Pulled the plug on the base station for a moment, and it got all better.

I'm going to contact Mad Catz/Tritton support and ask if the frequency is random, although there's not a lot I'll do since 5Ghz networking is here to stay. This isn't a deal-breaker since once it's fixed, it's fixed until I'm done. It's just annoying...
post #5208 of 5434
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikepaul View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikepaul View Post

Once my replacement router shows up and I *hopefully* don't get disconnected from Defiance because of my hardware issues, I'll check that. I'm playing Dishonored right now...
Nah, it's the base station. Booted up to play Dishonored, and the sound of moving the dashboard menu left and right had a buzz to it. Pulled the plug on the base station for a moment, and it got all better.

I'm going to contact Mad Catz/Tritton support and ask if the frequency is random, although there's not a lot I'll do since 5Ghz networking is here to stay. This isn't a deal-breaker since once it's fixed, it's fixed until I'm done. It's just annoying...

I also get that about every other month, and solve it the same way(re-plug). No idea what causes it...
post #5209 of 5434
Quote:
Originally Posted by rightintel View Post

I also get that about every other month, and solve it the same way(re-plug). No idea what causes it...
At the Mad Catz support website, it's a known issue.
Quote:
Knowledge base
My Warhead is making a buzzing noise, after I updated my Xbox 360 console. How do I fix this?
To fix this issue, please power cycle the Warhead's Base Station. To power cycle the Warhead Base Station, unplug the Base Station for 10 seconds. This should fix the buzzing issue.

Known, but unexplained...
post #5210 of 5434
Ok here is a picture of the Antlion Mod Mic on my Annies. One with the mic and one without. Really like this mic a lot. I got lucky when I ordered. They got a shipment in a day after I ordered and it came about 5 days after I placed the order.


post #5211 of 5434
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z1q9t6PAl2E

My KSC35, 75, Sportapro vid smile.gif
Edited by Raven Crimson - 7/4/13 at 11:05pm
post #5212 of 5434
Was thinking of finding a better home for my Beyerdynamic MMX300 high-end headset. My dog tripped on the cable one day and ruined the 1/8" connector. My attempts to solder on a replacement onto that thin wire have been less than stellar, so the jack connections are intermittent and it needs re-done for any DIY folks out there handier with a soldering iron than I am. Any idea from the experts here what would be a fair price to ask? PM me if you prefer, I'd be glad to be very reasonable (they are gathering dust now) but otherwise one of the best headsets you can buy. I just don't use them enough to justify the cost especially with my suspect connector repair skills, and don't find I need the mic as often as I thought I would.

Also need some advice: I am looking to get a second pair of cans to be used for a racing simulator setup I've built. Now I have a second cable for my AKG K702 Annies (detachable cables FTW!) mounted in the rig but it's getting old moving them back and forth between there and the couch often. However much I love the Annies, I can't really justify spending what it would take to get a second pair just for the sim rig, so I need something along those lines but lower end. Ideally one that works w/ the same detachable cable. Thinking of the AKG K240 MkII (or the original Mark 1, $40 less) or the K271? What might be a good choice? Keep in mind this will not be for an FPS, but racing simulations on a PC (driven by a good X-Fi sound card, but not a model w/ special headphone amp circuit), or perhaps GT5/6 and Forza from consoles connected to a MixAmp..
post #5213 of 5434
Why not look for a used Q701/K702? I'm sure you can get them for a good price on Head-fi. You can then later on acquire some memory foam pads for them to turn them into less comfortable Annies. (bumps on the headband).
post #5214 of 5434
I have the Turtle Beach XP500's which I am using with my 360 and I want to also use them with my PS3. My 360 and PS3 are both hooked into my TV by HDMI. Would it be better to just plug the TOSlink cable for the XP500's into the Optical out on my HDTV or should I get a TOSlink switch? Any loss in sound quality? I have been manually plugging my TOSlink cable in as needed but that is getting to be a pain in the tail. Thanks is advance for any help.
post #5215 of 5434
I would either get a toslink switch or continue manually switching. Your TV will more than likely downconvert signals to 2 channel PCM meaning no proper virtual surround.

Anyways... next review is up!
Quote:
Philips Fidelio X1

700

Sells for $250-$300
Review (Click to show)
The Philips Fidelio X1. The flagship headphone in the Fidelio line, and quite possibly the final headphone made by Philips. If it is indeed the final headphone before Funai takes over, Philips sure went out with a bang.



Build Quality: The X1 is a physical masterpiece in almost every way. Elegant and sleek design paired with a well machined construction puts headphones costing thrice as much to shame. The Fidelio X1 is easily the best looking full sized headphone I have ever laid eyes upon, with no tradeoffs in actual quality. Even the plastic used on the headphone doesn't feel like plastic, but something more akin to ceramic.

The cups are made of said plastic, with a wonderful feel of solidity, which connects to one another via two wires (like the AKG K70x line) encased in metal and strong leather. The open-backed design of the cups are protected via a beautiful mesh pattern/grill, possibly the prettiest of all headphones I've seen. It is tightly knit, which doesn't seem as open as something like the HD650's outer grill, yet it is still undoubtedly and utterly open. The left cup has a 3.5mm input for the audio cable, which makes it convenient, and easy to remove/replace/swap cables. As with all 3.5mm inputs, you'll want to be very careful when attaching/removing the cables.

The headband is a suspension type (again, like the AKG K70x line), which is very soft, and generously padded. It is quite large, covering a lot of head space wherever it rests. Ultimately, it is incredibly comfortable, though it is a bit problematic for larger heads, which I'll explain later.

Next, we have the ear pads. The pads are made of memory foam, covered in velour. This makes them incredibly soft and a bit more breatheable in comparison to leather/pleather pads. It isn't as dense as the K702 65th Anniversary pads, so it doesn't retain quite the same amount of memory foam properties. This makes them seal a little less through the pads, but doesn't trap as much heat as the AKG memory foam pads. They are quite thick, so those sensitive to ears being pressed against the driver enclosures shouldn't have an issue with the X1's pads.

On to the cable. The cable is quite possibly... scratch that, it IS the most beautiful stock cable I have ever seen on any headphone. It's long, cloth covered, thick, and soft/bendable without retaining cable memory. It terminates into a very nice 6.3mm (1/4") jack. As amazing as it looks... you will want to swap it for another cable, which I'll explain later.



Comfort: To put things as simple as possible, the Fidelio X1 is one of the most comfortable full-sized headphones you will ever wear. While it isn't the lightest headphone, it certainly isn't the heaviest, and whatever weight the X1 has is expertly spread around by the suspended headband, so it feels lighter than it really is.

The huge cups and pads allow the ears to fit inside comfortably, and the soft and airy velour padding keeps heat from building up compared to leather/pleather pads. No stickyness, and less heat is always a good thing in my book. The X1 could still stand to have more extension to allow bigger heads to fit with zero issues, as even with the post bending mod, the lack of extension will make the X1 press the headband down to your head. It's mostly harmless as the headband is so big and well padded, but it is worth noting.



Design Issues: One of the biggest issues on the X1 (and there are only two real issues), is that the ear pads aren't removable. This makes it quite problematic to clean or replace. It is held in by four screw-like protrusions, and a strong adhesive. This makes it a quite a commitment to remove and place back on. Considering the masterful design of the X1, the ear pad assembly comes off as archaic and incredibly cumbersome. You may have to contact Philips for a replacement (possibly for a price) once the pads start wearing out. Problem there being that Philips quite possiby won't be in the headphone business soon, so there may not be a legitimate method of replacing the pads. You will definitely want to baby the pads, and try to keep them as clean as possible at all times. Some tape to remove particles/dust/etc, and not using the X1 when you're dirty.

The second (though less problematic) issue, is that the stock cable (as amazing as it looks and feels) has a very high resistance (around 1.8ohm). That is unnaturally high for an audio cable, and it does cause a negative effect to the sound quality. Compared to audio cables with a typical resistance of around 0.5ohm, the stock cable makes the sound slightly congested, and slightly undetailed, which makes instruments sound a little hazy and blended into the background. Replacing the cable will immediately tighten up the bass, and better define instruments, and other sound effects clearly in comparison. The difference isn't vast, but it is there, and can be noticeable with the right material. Replacing the cable isn't costly, and you can replace it with something equally sturdy such as the Mediabridge audio cables sold on Amazon for $10 or less for an immediate improvement. The only positive aspect of the stock cable's sound is that it's warmer, and less fatiguing, due to the softer, less defined sound.

The third issue with the X1 is that the headband simply isn't made for larger heads. The space between the suspended headband padding and the leather covered top that connects the cups is quite small, and once you put the headphone on, the suspended headbasnd will crash into the top piece, not allowing clearance for larger heads. There is a simple solution to this, and that is to bend the top piece into more of a cone shape, to allow more clearance. There is a lot of wasted horizontal space by default so bending the headband allows this unused space to be occupied by the suspended headband if needed. The top band is all metal and leather, and won't break, so there shouldn't be any worry about damaging the headphone with this mod.


Accessories: The X1 comes with a 6.3mm to 3.5mm adapter (1/4" to 1/8"). As with all 6.3mm to 3.5mm adapters, I would advise on NOT using it, and instead getting a Grado adapter cable or something like it, as these typical adapters can put some strain on 3.5mm inputs. The X1 also come with the audio cable and a clip attached near the 6.3mm plug which can help control the length if need be.



Isolation/Leakage: As an open backed headphone, you can't expect much isolation/noise control. However, I don't find them to leak as badly as other open backed headphones, so with moderate volumes, you can get by without bothering too many others. Even so, don't plan on using these to great effect if you need to control leak or keep external noises from seeping in.



Sound: The Fidelio comes out swinging. My first thought when I heard the X1 was something like "This is exactly what I have always wanted out of an open backed, bassy headphone." The X1 has an open, spacious, lively, energetic, yet controlled sound. It is tonally on the warm side due to the bass, but verges on neutral. The treble gives the X1 a nice amount of energy despite most of the treble actuallyu being on the smooth side. The X1 to me is at odds with itself. Not in a bad way, mind you. By odds, I mean that it doesn't know if it wants to be a basshead headphone, or an audiophile headphone. Both? That sounds about right. A basshead/audiophile headphone. Let's get into the specifics...



Bass: The X1 is a rare breed of headphone, particularly in it's bass. There are very, very few headphones that can be this open, yet retain so much energy in it's bass which more closely resembles something coming out of a sealed design. It has a lot of growl and punch, but not overly so like most bass heavy, closed headphones. Open-backed headphones tend to roll off in the bass quite quickly, losing energy, impact, and are too quick to decay. The X1 is among the elite few dynamic headphones which does away with that stereotype. Other dynamics with potent bass would be the Sennheiser HD650 and Beyerdynamic DT990, and neither reach as low as the X1, nor fill up the virtual space in the same way. The X1 has a broader range in bass than the 650 or DT990, and fits somewhere between in decay and speed. The 650 is more neutral in it's bass, while the 990 is a bit stronger in the mid bass, but rolls off faster, not allowing it to reach the lower depths as well as the X1. Ultimately, the X1's bass is more fleshed out than the other two.

That being said, the bass can at times come off a bit undetailed and lacking in texture and layering. Perhaps even one-note-ish. To me, the X1's bass sounds like it was pre-boosted from a neutral headphone, and it sounds as if Philips pushed the X1's driver to it's limit in the bass, and adding any more would probably strain the drivers causing them to distort badly. This is just an assumption though, and overall, the presentation of bass on the X1 is among my favorites on any headphone. Just note that I feel that it can stand to be more textured, refined, and overall improved upon.



Mids: The mids on the X1 are pleasantly intact, despite the X1's bass heavy nature. The mids are actually quite linear and neutral in tone, with no crazy drops or rises all the way up to the treble. It's neither forward nor truly recessed, staying in place at all times, only slightly trailing behind the abundant level of bass. The mids are neither weak nor special. They are happy to be present in the mix at all times, only slightly getting masked by the bass at times. Such is the nature of virtually all bass heavy headphones, and the X1 is among the best ones at keeping the mids intact. Due to the open and spacious sound of the X1, the mids are never intimate, nor are they thick or organic like the HD650, LCD-2, and K702/65. In the end, you can say the mids are good in that they are detailed, but not special. They are definitely more upfront than the DT990, which was something I personally wanted out of a DT990 successor (which is how I see the X1).



Treble: The treble on the X1 is generally smooth, with slight peak at 10khz, which adds a nice amount of sparkle and energy, keeping the X1 from sounding completely warm or smoothike the HD650, LCD-2, and K702/65. The treble is well in line with the mids other than the slight peak at 10khz, and massive drop off after 10khz. Said drop off keeps the X1 from being sibilant or fatiguing overall, but it does gloss over quite a bit of treble detail.

Overall, the drop off in treble after 10khz isn't problematic, as the X1 still exudes plenty of air and energy, but it is worth noting. Also, the rise at 10khz can rear it's head with certain material and can be a little tizzy at times, keeping the X1 from being completely fatigue free. Overall, it's a minor gripe, and I feel it to be a very small, necessary evil to allow the X1 to sound as open and lively as it is. Surely, nowhere near as problematic as the treble happy DT990 and HE-400.



Soundstage: The X1 has a large soundstage somewhat similar to the DT990. Plenty of space between instruments and positional cues, with great imaging. A soundstage this good just isn't normal with bassy headphones, making the X1 even more special. The instruments and positional cues don't take up as much space as something like the K702/65, giving a larger sense of virtual space, even if it doesn't reach as far out.



Positioning: Great positional cues tend to accompany open headphones with large soundstages, and the X1 surely does not disappoint. Among the best in positional cue clarity, with a pretty good sense of height (something I don't normally notice in headphones), front and side cues, and very good rear positional cues. For a bass oriented headphone, the X1 will be among the best all rounders, especially if positional accuracy is a must.



Clarity: Due to the very (VERY) linear frequency response after the bass, the Fidelio X1 is among the clearest sounding headphones, especially for gaming. The mids are so dead even with the treble overall, that nothing is truly lost. The only problem in clarity is that due to the potent bass, some details can be hidden behind each bass impact, though for an all rounder with bass heaviness, there just won't be much better than the X1 in clarity. It really is that good.



Amping: With popular headphones come the inevitable influx of people recommending they be amped by powerful amps to get the best out of them. I have heard this with basically EVERY SINGLE headphone that is worth their grain in salt. I'll be a little more realistic in saying that the X1 is quite easy to drive and doesn't scale up enough to warrant a potent/pricey amplifier for them. I believe a very good portable amp would be enough for them, and anything else is more for tweaking the flavor and sound signature, and not because the X1 needs a certain amount of power. So again, I say, the X1 can do very well with a good portable amp or decent desktop amp, and still sounds fantastic with very little to no amping. The X1 is quite sensitive, and I feel that for console gaming, the Mixamp alone is enough.



Value: The X1 is now consistently hovering between $250 and $275, and at that price, it is an ABSOLUTE must have. You get a lot of performance, and very few drawbacks. Those who want a linear headphone with bump in bass need look no further. You get one hell of a headphone for so little money.



Comparisons: X1 vs. K702/65. The most popular comparison asked for me to do is between the X1 and the K702/65 (Annies). The comparison is not exactly valid, as it is comparing apples to oranges. The Annie is more balanced, more organic, warmer, thicker, and more fluid. It is less fatiguing and more polite. The X1 is more lively, energetic, and more bassy, with thinner sounding instruments, but a bigger sense of space. I love them both almost equally, with an edge going to the X1 simply due to it having the sound signature I have always wanted out of a potential successor to the DT990 (which has been a long time fave of mine). If I were to honestly gauge the sound quality and refinement, I'd say the Annie is a superior headphone overall, with it's more realistic/natural tone, and more perceived audio fidelity, in my opinion. There is a place for both of them, as they cover basically all aspects of sound/genres very well between the two.

X1 Vs. DT990. If there was ever anything I wanted out of the DT990 to make them ideal for my personal taste, is that I wished they would have considerably less treble, more mids, and retain the same amount of bass and soundstage. The X1 is almost exactly what I have wanted for years when I asked for an improved DT990. They don't sound the same (obviously), but it's the closest thing to my vision of an improved and evolved DT990. Because of this, you can say the X1 has made the DT990 obsolete. The only people who should look into the DT990 over the X1 is those who can't afford the $250 or so dollars for the X1, and even then, the DT990 Pro is the only version that is noticeably cheaper. All of the 990s require quite a bit more amping than the X1, so in the end, you'd end up spending more for the 990 just to make them sound up to par with the X1, even when the X1 is unamped. That still doesn't get you past the edgy and polarizing treble.



Final Impressions: With the X1, you get a very beautiful, comfortable, affordable (by audiophile standards), open, velour padded, easy to drive, bassy, energetic, linear headphone. That is a hell of a lot of boxes ticked for a headphone in this price range, and trust me, it's all true.

There are a few caveats: essentially non-replaceable pads, mediocre stock cable, metal bending mod necessary for larger heads. Also, bass could stand to be more refined, mids aren't exactly highlighted, treble detail gets glossed over past a certain point, and slight (very slight) fatigue at times.

Despite those few caveats, the X1 is well worth their price and then some. For those who have been on the hunt for an open, bassy can, with comfy velour (like I have), your journey is over. Get the X1 as soon as possible. It isn't perfect, and depending on what you want out of a headphone, the X1 may not be suited for you (those looking for stellar mids need not apply), but considering their price and domestically appealing sound signature, the X1 is a clear winner in my book.

Final Scores...

Fun: 9 (Amazing)

Competitive: 8.25 (Great. If the bass were a little tighter and more refined, the X1 could've been a 9 in competitive, though it may have reduced the fun factor)

Comfort: 9 (Amazing)

Edited by Raven Crimson - 7/18/13 at 5:38pm
post #5216 of 5434
WTF is so great about Turtle Beach headsets? I can't stand chatting with people who use them on XBL. They've been making these headsets for 8 years or more now and they still can't make them NOT blast people through the mic with that nasty ****ing tone? Is it dead batteries, a bad cable, or what? In any case, it should NOT happen. The wireless ones also blast static when people get out of range, like to go get a drink. Again, WHY? Plus, the ****ing mic picks up EVERYTHING on the other end. Their TV/surround sound, other people, and anything they happen to be banging around and making noise with. Why the **** do I want to hear people's TVs or their ****ing music? Would it really be that difficult to at least make the mic only pick up things from the general direction of the person's mouth who's ****ing wearing it!?!?

p.s. I'd kill for a wireless version of the standard microsoft mic that's exactly the same as the wired one, not some ****ing little bluetooth POS.
post #5217 of 5434
Quote:
Originally Posted by Viper187 View Post

WTF is so great about Turtle Beach headsets? I can't stand chatting with people who use them on XBL. They've been making these headsets for 8 years or more now and they still can't make them NOT blast people through the mic with that nasty ****ing tone? Is it dead batteries, a bad cable, or what? In any case, it should NOT happen. The wireless ones also blast static when people get out of range, like to go get a drink. Again, WHY? Plus, the ****ing mic picks up EVERYTHING on the other end. Their TV/surround sound, other people, and anything they happen to be banging around and making noise with. Why the **** do I want to hear people's TVs or their ****ing music? Would it really be that difficult to at least make the mic only pick up things from the general direction of the person's mouth who's ****ing wearing it!?!?

p.s. I'd kill for a wireless version of the standard microsoft mic that's exactly the same as the wired one, not some ****ing little bluetooth POS.

I never had any of the problems that you mentioned w/ my X41's, they were phenomenal. Only dumped 'em so I could go completely wireless...
post #5218 of 5434
Quote:
Originally Posted by rightintel View Post

I never had any of the problems that you mentioned w/ my X41's, they were phenomenal. Only dumped 'em so I could go completely wireless...

Read much? You're not the one who hears the ****. The people on the other end are.
post #5219 of 5434
Quote:
Originally Posted by Viper187 View Post

WTF is so great about Turtle Beach headsets? I can't stand chatting with people who use them on XBL. They've been making these headsets for 8 years or more now and they still can't make them NOT blast people through the mic with that nasty ****ing tone? Is it dead batteries, a bad cable, or what? In any case, it should NOT happen. The wireless ones also blast static when people get out of range, like to go get a drink. Again, WHY? Plus, the ****ing mic picks up EVERYTHING on the other end. Their TV/surround sound, other people, and anything they happen to be banging around and making noise with. Why the **** do I want to hear people's TVs or their ****ing music? Would it really be that difficult to at least make the mic only pick up things from the general direction of the person's mouth who's ****ing wearing it!?!?

p.s. I'd kill for a wireless version of the standard microsoft mic that's exactly the same as the wired one, not some ****ing little bluetooth POS.

1) They've had a standard wireless Microsoft branded Xbox 360 available for years. I paid about $30 for mine way back in 2007. It does exactly as you asked. It works the same as the one included in the box.. but its wireless.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Dvideogames&field-keywords=wireless%20360%20headset
Its also available in black, should you not desire the white color.
http://www.amazon.com/Xbox-360-Wireless-Headset/dp/B003OAG8CC/ref=pd_sim_vg_5
They even have updated black version that is now dual band. One mode works with just the Xbox 360's proprietary wireless signal. Switching to the other mode turns the headset into a standard bluetooth connection for non-360 devices.
http://www.amazon.com/Xbox-360-Wireless-Headset-Bluetooth/dp/B005FMLXW2/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1376241867&sr=1-1&keywords=wireless+360+headset



2) You can set your Xbox profile options so that the only people you hear mic sounds from, are those people on your friends list. That way you never have to worry about strangers and headsets making any kind of extra unwarranted noise or picking up unwanted sounds from the background.

A) To change it hit the guide button(big button in middle of controller)
B) Press right twice on the D-Pad to access settings
C) Go to profile
D) The last item listed is privacy settings
E) First option under there is voice chat
F) Change it from "Everyone" to "Friends only"

If after a while, you feel lonely and prefer to hear everyone again. Then to change it back, do the eaxact same steps above and change it to "Everyone"



3) Why are you so angry? What's with all the cursing? Is it really that serious? Ironically in your cursing rant.. you ask someone else to do they "read much". But it seems you have missed a quite a few features and accessories that seem important to you. Perhaps you should try taking your own advice and read some more.
post #5220 of 5434
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daekwan View Post

1) They've had a standard wireless Microsoft branded Xbox 360 available for years. I paid about $30 for mine way back in 2007. It does exactly as you asked. It works the same as the one included in the box.. but its wireless.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Dvideogames&field-keywords=wireless%20360%20headset
Its also available in black, should you not desire the white color.
http://www.amazon.com/Xbox-360-Wireless-Headset/dp/B003OAG8CC/ref=pd_sim_vg_5
They even have updated black version that is now dual band. One mode works with just the Xbox 360's proprietary wireless signal. Switching to the other mode turns the headset into a standard bluetooth connection for non-360 devices.
http://www.amazon.com/Xbox-360-Wireless-Headset-Bluetooth/dp/B005FMLXW2/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1376241867&sr=1-1&keywords=wireless+360+headset



2) You can set your Xbox profile options so that the only people you hear mic sounds from, are those people on your friends list. That way you never have to worry about strangers and headsets making any kind of extra unwarranted noise or picking up unwanted sounds from the background.

A) To change it hit the guide button(big button in middle of controller)
B) Press right twice on the D-Pad to access settings
C) Go to profile
D) The last item listed is privacy settings
E) First option under there is voice chat
F) Change it from "Everyone" to "Friends only"

If after a while, you feel lonely and prefer to hear everyone again. Then to change it back, do the eaxact same steps above and change it to "Everyone"



3) Why are you so angry? What's with all the cursing? Is it really that serious? Ironically in your cursing rant.. you ask someone else to do they "read much". But it seems you have missed a quite a few features and accessories that seem important to you. Perhaps you should try taking your own advice and read some more.

No, it seems you missed the part where I said "NOT some ****ing little bluetooth POS," which is exactly what microsoft's wireless headset offerings are. It's not the same as the OEM wired headset. The wired one is actually a headset. The bluetooth/wireless thing is not. Also, the settings mean nothing when it's your own friends doing it to you half the time. The screeching/tone/static broadcasting through should be preventable on the hardware end.
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