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IR Emitter versus DLP Link

post #1 of 78
Thread Starter 
Good afternoon everyone!

Sorry to be so specific, but this post pertains to those of us with a pre-2010 Mitsubishi DLP television.

As it's now been drilled into me, on a pre-2010 Mitsubishi DLP in 3D mode there is no way for us to turn off the DLP Link. The DLP Link is always on.

I've been looking over the pro's and con's of both the IR Emitter and DLP Link glasses and wanted to gather opinions of people on this forum.

IR Emitter
Pro's:
1.) does not lose sync
2.) no rainbows
3.) generally lighter and easier to wear for longer periods of time
4.) has child sized glasses already available
Con's:
1.) picture quality is not as good as DLP Link, washes out contrast
2.) generally more expensive

DLP Link
Pro's
1.) good picture quality, brings back contrast
2.) price seems to be lower than IR Emitter glasses
Con's
1.) has a tendency to lose sync
2.) rainbow of colors sometimes
3.) have to mess around with standard or reverse
4.) nothing made for children

The most common IR Emitter glasses I've seen are:
1.) 2 that come in the Mitsubishi 3DC-1000 3D HDTV Starter Pack
2.) Samsung SSG-2100AB Battery 3D Glasses (same as starter pack)
3.) Samsung SSG-2200AR Rechargeable Adult 3D Glasses
4.) Samsung SSG-2200KR 3D Active Glasses for Kids (rechargeable)

On the DLP Link side there are:
1.) ViewSonic PGD-150 Active Stereographic 3D Shutter Glasses
2.) Optoma BG-ZD101 DLP Link 3D Glasses
3.) XpanD X102 Series

So, for those of you with pre-2010 Mitsubishi DLP televisions which do you prefer? The IR Emitter or DLP Link glasses? And why?
post #2 of 78
I initially went the DLP Link glasses route (Optomas) but could not get the glasses to stay sync'd. I sent them back and received my IR glasses this morning. I haven't used them yet but will play with them tonight and let you know how it goes.

I believe the DLP Link glasses sync problems are pretty rare though. Almost everyone I've talked to hasn't had any sync issues so it may have just been my pair of glasses or an issue with my TV. I can confirm that the IR glasses in the Mits kit are far more comfortable than the Optomas though (I put them on before leaving for work this morning).

Price shouldn't be a major influence in your decision. Tru3D is selling the Samsung stater kit (including 2 pairs of glasses) for $200. That puts the glasses at $100 each (less if you sell the movie included in the kit). Since the DLP Link glasses appear to be around the $85 range, the difference shouldn't sway you one way or another.
post #3 of 78
I have the XpanD 102's and they work fine for me with my Samsung DLP. I have not witnessed any sync issues with the meager amount of 3D movies I have watched so far. We will be watching "My Bloody Valantine" this weekend so hopefully they continue to work flawlessly...
post #4 of 78
I've heard 2nd hand that DLP Link is implemented differently with the 120hz frame sequential DLP front projectors when compared to how it is used with the rear projection checkboard DLP displays.

If this is indeed the case, it would be interesting to see if any of the DLP-Link pros and cons change, based on the DLP display device (checkerboard or frame sequential).
post #5 of 78
I put some time in with the IR glasses included in the Mits kit.... and they're awesome. PQ is great, comfortable, no sync issues, good blacks, couldn't be happier.

I knew about all the reported issues with the glasses but so far haven't seen any... I don't even see the "black crush" issue when viewing 2D content.

3D is here and 3D is awesome.
post #6 of 78
I found the dlp sync glasses lost sync when i sat to close to the tv. Scoot back about two feet no more problems. I want to try the ir since i want to play my ps3 3d super close.
post #7 of 78
I have a pair of x102s and they lose sync often not for a long time but it gets annoying to turn your head away and back to get them re-synced. They also sometimes have a split second blackout where I'm guessing both eyes are getting blocked at the same time.

I just switched to using the Samsung 2200 rechargables with a Mit. emitter and it is a much more pleasant experience.

Samsung RP DLP
post #8 of 78
i have just one "stupid" question.

IR Emitter is included/integrated with every samsung 3D tv, right?
post #9 of 78
For this thread, the IR emitter comes with the Mits kit. It plugs into the back of the TV into the 3D sync port. As far as I know, no DLPs have a built-in emitter.

Emitters might be built-into all of the new Samsung 3D TVs if that's what you're referring to. I believe this is the case since I haven't seen an emitter advertised such as Sony has done (as all of their models don't have an emitter built-in).
post #10 of 78
well justin you can say i told you so. got the kit from true 3d and ps3 recognized my tv right away but the PGD-150 Active viewsonics will not stay in sync!looks like you were right after all.other people seem to get a flawless connection with this model of tv hlt5687s so i guess it is best to go with emitter glasses.problem is i cant return these so it looks like i own dlp link glasses that don't work with this type of set.reason i purchased because was going by reviews by some of the members.
post #11 of 78
It happens. When I got my Optomas, I was shocked that they didn't work after so many people said they were absolutely the only way to go with DLP sets.

I'm sure you can sell them on ebay or to an AVS member and get most your money back though so it shouldn't be a total loss. Tru3D has the Samsung starter pack listed for $200 if you're looking to go with the IR glasses. The only problem then is that you'll need the Mits emitter... maybe Tru3D has a few of those lying around that they can sell you. It's worth a shot - every time I've dealt with them, they've been great.
post #12 of 78
Just wanted to add my experience,
I have tried nVidia 3D vision glasses (IR) and Optomas (DLP-link)
I would have to give the nod to Optomas, the image quality was lot better and they just work. (I'm using a Samsung HL56A650).
I've watched couple of full length 3D movies and played 20+ hours of 3D PC games with them, without them loosing sync.

They turn off when I look away from the TV but the sync right back once I go back to watching TV.

I paid $76 for them on Amazon, I say their worth every penny especially considering that I don't have to deal with an IR emitter.

My only gripe is background reflection getting in the way and no rechargeable batteries. I have had them for 2 months and they're still going so I wont complain too much...
post #13 of 78
I have the a mits xx833 and first bought the dlp link glasses from aptoma work great never have i had a sync problem with them no matter how close or how far as far as 30ft.then i got a good deal for the mits starter pack and jumped on it the PQ is day and night horrible PQ almost as if the glasses were not on, now the 3d affect was there but you can still see the dlp link. i retuned them the next day. now... there are some other brand out there called 3dtv corp you can pick up at ebay or amazon they come with there own emitter that you can switch polarity left and right, i have these as well and PQ is almost identical to the dlp link glasses i have, and they are very cheap if you buy these make sure you ask for the gen 2 emitter they just came out with it has a longer range. this is what im going to buy from now on if im going to get extra glasses here is the link

http://cgi.ebay.com/3DTV-kit-3D-GLAS...#ht_2153wt_907
post #14 of 78
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by trauma View Post

I have the a mits xx833 and first bought the dlp link glasses from aptoma work great never have i had a sync problem with them no matter how close or how far as far as 30ft.then i got a good deal for the mits starter pack and jumped on it the PQ is day and night horrible PQ almost as if the glasses were not on, now the 3d affect was there but you can still see the dlp link. i retuned them the next day. now... there are some other brand out there called 3dtv corp you can pick up at ebay or amazon they come with there own emitter that you can switch polarity left and right, i have these as well and PQ is almost identical to the dlp link glasses i have, and they are very cheap if you buy these make sure you ask for the gen 2 emitter they just came out with it has a longer range. this is what im going to buy from now on if im going to get extra glasses here is the link

http://cgi.ebay.com/3DTV-kit-3D-GLAS...#ht_2153wt_907

trauma,

I saw these on e-Bay, too. I've sent a question to 3DTV Corp asking what the difference between their:
a.) 3DTV Model SA2
b.) 3DTV Model X (E-Dimensional, X3D or I/O glasses) - which are the ones in your above link
c.) 3DTV Model J or NuVision/XpanD
d.) 3DTV Model E and Nvidia
glasses are. As soon as I hear back from them, I'll post the differences here.

I'm surprised that the Picture Quality on your 3DTV Model X glasses are close to the Optoma BG-ZD101 DLP Link 3D Glasses. I didn't think that any IR Emitter glass could come close to DLP Link on the pre-2010 DLP TV's.
post #15 of 78
eieiopig,

yes the PQ is pretty close to the dlp link and for the price they are well worth it, but like I said if you buy these make sure you get the gen2 emmiter. gen1 has some issues syncing with the glasses when you turn on 3d mode on your set after it's bin off but gen2 works flawless
post #16 of 78
Quote:
Originally Posted by shockerrower View Post

I found the dlp sync glasses lost sync when i sat to close to the tv. Scoot back about two feet no more problems. I want to try the ir since i want to play my ps3 3d super close.

I did an experiment and got 3 feet in front of my 67 " Samsung and did not lose any sync. I didn't sit there more then a few minutes though, maybe if I sat there for ten or minutes something may have changed. Not sure why it happens to some folks.
post #17 of 78
Did you try this with optoma or xpand glasses? I tried it with the xpand 102s, hl67a750, and avatar on ps3. Noticed it in dark sequences like the forest levels
post #18 of 78
I love the Optomas on my Samsung HL-T. I haven't had any sync problems with lights on, doors and windows open and close or far from the TV. They have been great. Colors look good, no rainbows on my set. I don't have experience with IRs, but don't see switching.

I've also gotten almost 3 months out of the batteries so far. And my friends and I play PS3 a lot with 3D. I've gotta have 50 hours on both sets of glasses with original batteries still in.
post #19 of 78
Quote:
Originally Posted by shockerrower View Post

Did you try this with optoma or xpand glasses? I tried it with the xpand 102s, hl67a750, and avatar on ps3. Noticed it in dark sequences like the forest levels

I tried it with Xpan 102's. Maybe I need to spend more time to determine if it will happen. I only did it for a few minutes out of curiosity. Since sitting this close is not an ideal position, I didn't try it for too long of a time. I normally sit about 9 feet away and experience no issues at this distance.
post #20 of 78
Quote:
Originally Posted by eieiopig View Post

trauma,

I saw these on e-Bay, too. I've sent a question to 3DTV Corp asking what the difference between their:
a.) 3DTV Model SA2
b.) 3DTV Model X (E-Dimensional, X3D or I/O glasses) - which are the ones in your above link
c.) 3DTV Model J or NuVision/XpanD
d.) 3DTV Model E and Nvidia
glasses are. As soon as I hear back from them, I'll post the differences here.

I'm surprised that the Picture Quality on your 3DTV Model X glasses are close to the Optoma BG-ZD101 DLP Link 3D Glasses. I didn't think that any IR Emitter glass could come close to DLP Link on the pre-2010 DLP TV's.

I'd love to hear what they tell you. I have a couple of the Model X glasses, and while they appear to work great, they are horribly uncomfortable. It is impossible to sit through a movie with the bridge design of those glasses.
post #21 of 78
This thread is slightly crazy. The original poster specifically asks about pre-2010 Mits DLPs and wants user experiences with thost sets and DLP Link vs IR Emitter glasses.

And the result is half the thread is Samsung experiences... good grief.
post #22 of 78
Quote:


This thread is slightly crazy. The original poster specifically asks about pre-2010 Mits DLPs and wants user experiences with thost sets and DLP Link vs IR Emitter glasses.

And the result is half the thread is Samsung experiences... good grief.

I guess you don't realize that the Samsung DLP sets use the exact same technology as the Mitsubishi sets.

Just to keep the Samsung info coming: I am using Viewsonic PGD-150s with my 67". They work perfectly, and never lose sync. If I look away from the TV, they will drop, but will immediately sync as soon as I look back. I chose the Viewsonics because they take regular batteries (unlike Expand), and can operate in either mode (unlike Optomas) so I can add IR glasses if I want.
post #23 of 78
Ok....Getting back on Topic!!

I'm a Mitsubishi WD-65738 owner (2010) with the new 12.06 firmware update. This means I can accept just about any 3D format natively without an adapter. I posed this same question on the 2010 Mitsubishi forum.

Once I had the new firmware, I just picked up a set of Optoma DLP-Link glasses . I've had no problems with loss of sync, but I haven't watched all that much content yet. I'm a Comcast customer, so I had to figure out why the On-Demand content wasn't working. Seems that 1080i top/bottom is just about the only format that the new firmware doesn't support. Switch the cable box to 720p and Bang!! Comcast On-Demand 3D content.

My impression: Eh. I was expecting to see things flying out and floating in front of the screen. Don't get me wrong, I can see depth and it looks 'nice'. So I was thinking, is there a difference with the Emitter/Starter pack? I don't like the idea of now having yet 'another' box to get 3D, Oh and don't forget about a switch for HDMI because I want to hook up my Blu-Ray, Xbox and Cable for 3D.

Reading some of these posts, it says DLP-Link is a better picture???

Is Mitsubishi planning on dropping the emitter all together and push the native conversion and DLP-Link?

What's a 'Techno-nerd' to do?
post #24 of 78
I was not aware that anyone was providing 1080i TnB formatted 3D content. AFAIK Vomcast and Direct TV only use SbS format when using 1080i. 720p which is used for ESPN-3D uses TnB format
post #25 of 78
Quote:
Originally Posted by knobby View Post

well justin you can say i told you so. got the kit from true 3d and ps3 recognized my tv right away but the PGD-150 Active viewsonics will not stay in sync!looks like you were right after all.other people seem to get a flawless connection with this model of tv hlt5687s so i guess it is best to go with emitter glasses.problem is i cant return these so it looks like i own dlp link glasses that don't work with this type of set.reason i purchased because was going by reviews by some of the members.

I am using a Samsung HLT5087S, bought the Mits. 3DA-1 adapter, but did the workaround of flashing my EDID instead of buying the TRU3D pack.

I bought the Viewsonics too, but I really am only having a lot of losing sync issues with my Xbox 360, not the PS3. What I've tried on the PS3 (Super Stardust HD, Wipeout HD, Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs) worked out a bit better than what I've tried on 360 (Black Ops, Avatar game), though there were still some slight flickering issues at times. Just not nearly as bad as playing Black Ops.

I haven't seen many or any other impressions of anyone using the PGD-150 with the HLT5087S specifically, but I thought I had seen that other people were using it fine with the HLT series. I guess I didn't luck out.

I'm going to try IR emitter since DLP Link isn't working out too well with my 360 and the main reason I got into this whole mess, playing Black Ops in 3D.

So I will try the Samsung SSG-2200AR glasses with the Mitsubishi emitter, and see if that works out better. I hope it does, with all this expense!
post #26 of 78
some people seem to have really good success others like us have problems with the same model dlp tv.there is a link about people partially covering the receiver on the newer samsung glasses with electrical tape just leaving enough exposed to receive a little of the tv signal.it is for the samsung glasses with the emitter built into the newer tvs..i thought i would try it with the dlp link glasses and it did help .before i couldn't get any activation from the glasses but after partially covering the little plastic receiver on the glasses they began to work.i will be getting the emitter type also and consider the dlp link glasses a waste of good money.
post #27 of 78
I have a Mitsubishi 73738 and have 2 XpanD's and 3 Optoma's. I've never lost sync, but will say the Optomas are superior in terms of showing true colors. The XpanDs have a "tint" of sorts on black colors. Optomas are clear and true.
post #28 of 78
Quote:
Originally Posted by knobby View Post

i thought i would try it with the dlp link glasses and it did help .before i couldn't get any activation from the glasses but after partially covering the little plastic receiver on the glasses they began to work.i will be getting the emitter type also and consider the dlp link glasses a waste of good money.

What do you mean by activation? Do you mean it wouldn't start syncing in the first place, or that it would just lose sync and either flicker or just look wrong?

Maybe I'll try covering some of the sensor on the glasses as well, see if that helps anything.

It's weird because your TV is pretty close to mine (5687S and 5087S) but I'm not really having any issues with my PS3, just my 360. Cloudy With A Chance looked great, Super Stardust was perfect with no issues, and Wipeout eventually started working albeit with some issues here and there, but still looked pretty good for the most part. I have yet to try Gran Turismo 5, but I will check it tonight.

What is your setup like? Have you messed with any settings on the TV or PS3? From what I can tell, when my TV enters 3D mode, all I can really edit are the Contrast and Brightness settings. But changing them around does seem to affect the syncing somewhat, I just haven't been able to figure out what is best.

What have you tried on your PS3?

I don't think the Viewsonics should be a paperweight for you, if they can work for me and my PS3, and us having essentially the same TV. I don't consider them a total loss for my part, since I can still use them effectively so far with what I've tried on the PS3. And if I can get the Viewsonics to work at the same time as the Samsung glasses, which I think may be possible if I read things correctly, then I'll have two I can use for movies on the PS3.
post #29 of 78
It sounds as if there isn't a lot of consensus from anyone regarding IR vs. DLP-Link. From reading the posts, sounds like they're pretty even? To make things clearer though, probably would be nice to actually have a poll...AVSforum doesn't allow it but I can create a doodle poll that you can use to vote.
post #30 of 78
Doodle poll link

http://www.doodle.com/6h9ph5kfsqgruvx3

Also, after voting, it may be beneficial to state what you voted, what TV you have, and the DLP-link/IR glasses you use.
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