The Official HSU VTF-15H Thread - Page 78

My Integra is to old for RC but level matching at the 9 o"clock position on the sub equates to -7 on the Integra and boy does it have some headroom.

When calibrating the sub which is better, to have the AVR closer to -6 and the sub dial at say 8 o'clock or the AVR set to -12, minimum, and the sub at 9 o'clock?

I have always had my sub at between 9 and 10 o'clock and the AVR at -12. With that in my room my speakers are set to 75db and my 15H is set to 78db.

Depends some AVR's will not send out a strong enough signal at low volume
levels when attenuated past -8 or -9 so then your option is to turn the gain down on the sub then set the AVR higher say -5 or less.

According to Audyssey guides I read you want the it close to 0, +-3.

I dialed mine down to about 10 and manually adjusted the sub to -2, and it really hits hard and deep.

Some VTF-15 owners mentioned it took a few hours for their sub to open up, and I am not sure if it was my tweaking this afternoon, the sub opening up, or the material, but we bought the "Lego Padawan Menace" on Blu-Ray today and the bass on the DTS-Master HD track was crazy intense with the VTF-15. To quote my wife "I just felt the couch move!".

I am extremely happy with the subwoofer. Combined, the PA-150 and my A2-300 are not even close to being in the same league.

I cannot imagine having two or more of these things!

Same here if you need two of these you have a really big room this thing fills my whole house with bass now it has me looking for movies with bass scores.

In order for the auto-on to work optimally, it's usually best to keep the sub's volume low enough for the receiver's sub out level to be close to 0 dB. The auto on sensing circuit is before the volume control. If the sub out level is very low (-10 dB for example), the sub may not turn on as quickly as one would like.

I am seriously considering this sub (along with the Empire and the FV15) however I am concerned with all the adjustments that this sub provides. Do I have to adjust the "Q"? I dont even know what that means, and am looking for a plug it in, set it at 75db on my AVR and just enjoy.

You still can mine came EQ=2 and Q=.3 with the gain at 9 o'clock and I pulled the foam plugs and ran it 2 ports open and found this is where I like it and every once in awhile I will put on a classical piece block one port flip the EQ switch to 1 and enjoy some really deep organ music. Its easy to adjust and gives you variety of settings the beauty part the manual is easy and very explanatory. Look at it this way I would rather be able to tailor it to my wants than be stuck with only one way.

Hi oztech - do you hear a significant difference or at least discernable extension when you switch modes, and play, for example the same piece of deep organ music ? Thanks.

It just gives you options, not necessary to use. Most just setup once for best frequency response or personal taste and leave it. I have mine eq1, one port, Q .3, and eq'd with minidsp and I leave it. I did play with the options and learned quite a bit in the process. Between the manual and the website frequency response plots you can see what the options affect.

Cool to see you contributing doc!

One port open and EQ=1 definitely will make it dig deep and both ports open will give you that slam or best way I can describe it at EQ=2 which it will tell you in the manual never run both ports open with EQ=1. I still play with the Q setting but I think .3 is where I like it for all.

Thanks guys, my sub is almost 1 year old so it is plenty broken in. My space is about 6000 cubic feet and I plan to get a second 15H to go with my current 15H/MBM combination in the future.

Based on your suggestions I will turn the sub volume down on the sub to about 8 o'clock or lower and turn it up on the receiver. I will aim for about -5 on the receiver, and calibrate from there.

That is the beauty of our hobby and this website, always tweaking, learning something new or upgrading.

You may find that turning it to 8:30 may be more than sufficient it is very sensitive. Little goes a long way.

Trust me, it is easier than it sounds

HSU and the members on this forum and the HSU forum can assist as they already have, but it is really not something to be intimidated by. The VTF-15H comes with documentation and a cheat sheet that makes it easy to get up and running.

So I was a little wrong, I actually had my sub dial at 10 o'clock with the AVR set to -12 (minimum), with filters and a house curve, this was my frequency response: (I ran this just before making changes)



I then turned the AVR up to -5 and re-calibrated my subs back to 78db and I am now just a little over 9 o'clock, see my FR below:



Didn't do any testing to see if I notice a difference but the graphs show I improved a little between about 13 and 20 Hz.

What do you guys think?

I'm gonna sound like a total noob, but what does each color mean?

I am not sure why you have such a big jump after 20hz. You may want to try and tame that.

What are the settings on the 15H for this response? One port open, EQ1, Q=0.7?

Thanks!

Well I reran Audyssey MultEQ twice more and made some adjustments and am now at -5 with the sub volume between 9 and 10. I may run it one more time after I adjust closer to 9 but I am really happy with the overall bass in my room.

It was a pain, but I compared a number of bass heavy scenes from Kung Fu Panda 1-2, Tron, Master and Commander, Empire Strikes Back, and Despicable Me, all on Blu on the VTF-15H vs the PA-150. The sweet spot in my room seems to be the right frog corner, with the HSU a little further out from the wall. No comparison (as there shouldn't be when comparing a $1k shipped sub to a $350 shipped sub). The PA-150 actually tries in the upper bass regions but runs out of steam with lower frequency. Just a guess but you would probably need 3-4 PA-150's to match or beat one 15H.

As I said earlier, the 15H is just effortless. I cannot even imagine what a Seaton Subversive would do in my room.

A few other notes. The packaging was top notch, HSU gives you some great documentation, customer service, and the fit and finish on the sub is light years from the bed liner finish on my eD sub.

That peak happens before 20 hz, and no way would I change that if I had it! That would seriously sound good, not bad.

Maybe I am reading the chart wrong, but I see a big jump after 20, and before 10. Not before 20?

Left to right, so that would be before 20. Room gain? Audyssey? My 15 does the same thing, even more so to around 14hz. I have about the same output at 14hz-18hz as compared to 40hz after running Audyssey XT.

WOW! Those are great graphs!

+1
I'm guessing Q is set at .7

That's exactly what I was thinking. I have non smoothed graphs that show a similar result in my room.

Spot on, EQ1, one port open and Q=0.7, that is why you are the Doctor


Yes, that happens between 15 and 20Hz. Even if I could, which I can't since my EQ doesn't go below 20Hz, I wouldn't change it.


I believe it is room gain. When I had dual HO's and the MBM I had the same thing happening.

This is a FR with dual HO's and an MBM



I have Audyssey turned off in my receiver; I don't like what it does to my LFE at all. I have tried everything with Audyssey and can't get anything close to a good FR.


Thanks

Keep in mind guys, this is in a 6000 cubic foot room, open basement, with just the 15H and an MBM. I can't wait until I get another 15H

Ratm, the different colors don't mean anything, that is just the colors that REW (Room EQ Wizard) chose when I was running different frequency responses.

If you want a flatter response, try setting to EQ2.