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The Official HSU VTF-15H Thread - Page 109

post #3241 of 5101
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hsu View Post

You should take out both port plugs. I think it will sound best with both ports open, EQ2, Q=0.3. Volume setting sound terribly high. With both ports open, you should not need to set the sub any higher than 9 o'clock. What is the sub out level on the receiver? Did you run any auto calibration?
With the new space, I would try the sub to the left of your equipment rack at the back as well. Will the preferred seat be the first row or second row?

I switched it to the settings you recommended and removed both plugs. Sub out level is 0db under tone controls if that's what you mean.
I haven't run audyssey as I believe it's a moot point since we are moving and my sub is not in an ideal location at all. Main listening position is front row center. I only have my fronts + center hooked up with the sub. My rears are boxed up for the move.

Update: Sounds better with new settings and using 8:30 position. Quite a difference for music.
Edited by Cobb28 - 12/13/12 at 5:04pm

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post #3242 of 5101
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobb28 View Post

I switched it to the settings you recommended and removed both plugs. Sub out level is 0db under tone controls if that's what you mean.
I haven't run audyssey as I believe it's a moot point since we are moving and my sub is not in an ideal location at all. Main listening position is front row center. I only have my fronts + center hooked up with the sub. My rears are boxed up for the move.
Update: Sounds better with new settings and using 8:30 position. Quite a difference for music.

Glad to hear that you like the new settings. No, I do not mean under tone controls. I mean the output level set by the receiver for the subwoofer.
post #3243 of 5101
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prime316 View Post

I want to post a room layout for suggestions but don't exactly know how.
I would appreciate any direction as to how to do this. thanks.

After you select reply, click on the paper clip symbol above. It will then prompt you to enter the name of the file you want to attach.
post #3244 of 5101
Here ya go, Dr. Hsu. and anyone else who might have suggestions. This is a simple hand drawing. The sub does ok where it is. I don't know if there's a better place for it in the room. The room is nothing crazy. It has 2 windows that are both light controlled 1 behind each couch.

Thanks in advance

img002.pdf 281k .pdf file
post #3245 of 5101
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hsu View Post

Oh, the TV is on the long wall! If that is the case, I would prefer to place the sub against the TV wall, between the front right speaker and the center channel. You will have a dip in the deep bass if you have the sub on the listener side.

Thanks so much for the advice dr Hsu! I have one last question, I promise smile.gif
Can I put the sub in the wall if I box out a space for it and have it fire into the room? Aesthetically, this would work and my wife won't kill me smile.gif
post #3246 of 5101
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prime316 View Post

Here ya go, Dr. Hsu. and anyone else who might have suggestions. This is a simple hand drawing. The sub does ok where it is. I don't know if there's a better place for it in the room. The room is nothing crazy. It has 2 windows that are both light controlled 1 behind each couch.
Thanks in advance
img002.pdf 281k .pdf file

That position looks great! So, the room is pretty much self-enclosed - you close the door when watching movies?
post #3247 of 5101
That would be perfectly fine. You can do that on the TV wall?

You can ask as many questions as you want to - this does not have to the last question!
post #3248 of 5101
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hsu View Post

That position looks great! So, the room is pretty much self-enclosed - you close the door when watching movies?

Yes i do. That door opens up into a very large space so I close it. Other than that, the room is isolated.
post #3249 of 5101
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hsu View Post

Yes, I would just not drywall the lower section. Middle of the left wall is not exactly optimal, but you do not have much choice! biggrin.gif

Thanks Dr. Hsu. I have the option to run a sub cable to the front wall and could add another of your subs in the future between the L/C or R/C channels. It would need to be smaller in size than the 15H, ULS-15 size or smaller. Would that help? The room is only 12'x15' so I don't think it is in need of more power than the 15H can provide but if another will smooth out the response then I have no problem running the cable and getting one in a year or so.
post #3250 of 5101
Quote:
Originally Posted by design1stcode2nd View Post

Thanks Dr. Hsu. I have the option to run a sub cable to the front wall and could add another of your subs in the future between the L/C or R/C channels. It would need to be smaller in size than the 15H, ULS-15 size or smaller. Would that help? The room is only 12'x15' so I don't think it is in need of more power than the 15H can provide but if another will smooth out the response then I have no problem running the cable and getting one in a year or so.

I think the one 15H should be plenty even in it's current position. biggrin.gif
post #3251 of 5101
Thank you, and I just want to say I’m very pleased with the 15H, it has allowed me to afford a much better sub than I normally would have. Keep doing what you are doing!
post #3252 of 5101
Quote:
Originally Posted by design1stcode2nd View Post

Thank you, and I just want to say I’m very pleased with the 15H, it has allowed me to afford a much better sub than I normally would have. Keep doing what you are doing!

Thank you! Very glad you are happy with your purchase.
post #3253 of 5101
Hey Doc, what do think about a DIY Dayton RS18" sealed sub vs your 15h? I am thinking of purchasing a 15h but just got interested in a DIY... see this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1446020/need-suggestions-for-sub-in-a-large-living-area
TIA!
post #3254 of 5101
Based on the relatively small Xmax of <13mm, I do not think that woofer in a sealed box would do a lot. If you put that in a huge vented cabinet, yes.
post #3255 of 5101
Thanks doc! Too large a DIY box will have no WAF for our living area. Let me also ask you if my initial plan of purchasing one 15H is appropriate for that space or if there is any alternative for my $1000 budget (music only).
post #3256 of 5101
Quote:
Originally Posted by samx View Post

Thanks doc! Too large a DIY box will have no WAF for our living area. Let me also ask you if my initial plan of purchasing one 15H is appropriate for that space or if there is any alternative for my $1000 budget (music only).

A 15H will be great for your space. The left rear corner is fine (where you marked with 'S').
post #3257 of 5101
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hsu View Post

That would be perfectly fine. You can do that on the TV wall?
You can ask as many questions as you want to - this does not have to the last question!

Sure can! I built a box behind the wall into the crawl space to house the 15h between the fron right and center channel speaker.
-Evangelo2
post #3258 of 5101
Quote:
Originally Posted by Evangelo2 View Post

Can I put the sub in the wall if I box out a space for it and have it fire into the room? Aesthetically, this would work and my wife won't kill me smile.gif

Have a look at the pics in my sig. That's what I did with two of them. smile.gif
post #3259 of 5101
Quote:
Originally Posted by samx View Post

Hey Doc, what do think about a DIY Dayton RS18" sealed sub vs your 15h? I am thinking of purchasing a 15h but just got interested in a DIY... see this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1446020/need-suggestions-for-sub-in-a-large-living-area
TIA!

Josh Ricci tested the woofer and xmax specs are, to say the least, very conservative. I believe he said you could push it to 20mm without any issues.

http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=driver&id=48

That said, the dedicated VTF-15H is probably not the best place for this and the DIY section would be more appropriate.
post #3260 of 5101
Quote:
Originally Posted by ack_bk View Post

Josh Ricci tested the woofer and xmax specs are, to say the least, very conservative. I believe he said you could push it to 20mm without any issues.
To make an accurate assessment of usable xmax one would measure the driver and see at what excursion 10% THD is reached. I don't see that being done there. Pushing the driver to 20mm 'without any issues' indicates that xlim was not reached, which is useful information, but that's not the same thing as the accepted definition of xmax.
post #3261 of 5101
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

To make an accurate assessment of usable xmax one would measure the driver and see at what excursion 10% THD is reached. I don't see that being done there. Pushing the driver to 20mm 'without any issues' indicates that xlim was not reached, which is useful information, but that's not the same thing as the accepted definition of xmax.

Thanks for your input Bill. There is a lot of discussion on the new Dayton driver in this thread and the OP of that thread owns lots of commerical subs (dual Epik Empire's, dual JTR Caps, etc) and you can see how his DIY sealed build turned out with the 18" Dayton's. I think he is pleased since I believe he sold his dual Caps smile.gif

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1435795/first-diy-project-for-a-guy-looking-to-upgrade-multiple-sealed-18s
post #3262 of 5101
I finally got my version 1.0 of the basement complete. Plan on upgrading the couches, rears, and PJ down the road, so it's half new and half old stuff for now, It ain't pretty but it's got it where it counts for now!

The Sub looks awesome, needs to be tweaked a bit more tho I think. That SaintSaens track is pretty badass!

8283338354_b1854c4396_b.jpg
Basement by Kadath, on Flickr

8283338016_a08634b739_b.jpg
Basement by Kadath, on Flickr

Put a small set of atoms as my surrounds for now and if I can budget for 590s down the road move to them up to the bedroom. I put 4 screws in em and mounted em and hung em on the wall tonight. They sound great so far. I really wish the recess lights weren't put right next to where I had the prewire, if I put the speakers right under them it would make a huge shadow. In front of them and I cut off my ability to have a second row. So the choice was a dumb looking wire or moving the prewire box. Dumb wire it is for now =(

8282278821_ee3be1beb2_b.jpg
Basement by Kadath, on Flickr

8283337442_f98a59dcf1_b.jpg
Basement by Kadath, on Flickr
post #3263 of 5101
Cool room! Noticed that you have both ports plugged in the photo. Remove one of the port plug and set to EQ1 for that Saint Saens piece...
post #3264 of 5101
What does subwoofer distortion sound like? Also what does it sound like when the subwoofer runs out of steam like it says in the manual if you have it in max extension?

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
post #3265 of 5101
Depends on what kind of distortion! When a woofer voice coil hits the back plate (bottom out), it would emit a loud and alarming 'pop' that will make you jump out of your chair. That one is very obvious. Port noise is another - you will hear some chuffing sounds coming from the port(s). How running out of steam will sound depends on the behavior of the soft clipping circuit or limiter. In well designed subs, the sub would simply no get much louder without any gross distortion. In some designs, you can hear sudden shifts in loudness when driven to the limit.
post #3266 of 5101
I've heard the bottoming out on my vtf3 mk4 before, mostly in max extension mode. Case in point during the scene in how to train your dragon when the giant dragon crashes into the ground and blows up. Too much going on in that scene and I heard that distinctive pop you mentioned. Immediately I wanted to turn down the volume.

Now will having 2 of the same subwoofer limit sub distortion? Or upgrading to a 15H, will I hear less of the distortion if I played back the same program at the same level.

Basically I'm asking what do I need to do to get that ULF from the sub at the volume level I want without the distortion. Get another vtf3 mk4 or upgrade to 15H?

Thanks in advance,

Dr. your the greatest!

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
post #3267 of 5101
I always recommend multiple subwoofers whenever possible. I went from 1 VTF3-HO+turbo to dual-HO+turbo and recently added a third sub to my dedicated room, VTF3-MK4. I can honestly say I have the most even, impactful bass in my dedicated movie room that I have ever experienced.

Needless to say, I don't think I'll ever have just 1-sub setup. biggrin.gif
post #3268 of 5101
Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokenAshes View Post

I've heard the bottoming out on my vtf3 mk4 before, mostly in max extension mode. Case in point during the scene in how to train your dragon when the giant dragon crashes into the ground and blows up. Too much going on in that scene and I heard that distinctive pop you mentioned. Immediately I wanted to turn down the volume.
Now will having 2 of the same subwoofer limit sub distortion? Or upgrading to a 15H, will I hear less of the distortion if I played back the same program at the same level.
Basically I'm asking what do I need to do to get that ULF from the sub at the volume level I want without the distortion. Get another vtf3 mk4 or upgrade to 15H?
Thanks in advance,
Dr. your the greatest!
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

I would go for the 15H, and add a second one later... biggrin.gif
post #3269 of 5101
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hsu View Post

Cool room! Noticed that you have both ports plugged in the photo. Remove one of the port plug and set to EQ1 for that Saint Saens piece...

Yep,as noted the Sub is set as it was out o box, when I get home from Christmas break that's my next project, getting it set right!
post #3270 of 5101
I would simply pull out the port plugs, and just make sure the operating switch is in the EQ2 position. Don't have to do anything else till your Christmas break.. biggrin.gif (Which is here already!)
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