For people who want a free alternative for calibrating their TV read on and you will find the link.
First head on over to http://www.avsforum.com/t/948496/avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration and download the AVC HD version. You also might want the patterns manual for references. After it finishes downloading unzip it and burn it onto a compatible disc.
Then you need to make sure, if you are using a PS3 you use YCbCr and turn on the super white setting. This can be found by playing the disc and pressing the triangle button on the PS3 remote and going over into the AV settings. This makes sure you get the full dynamic range from the disc so BTB and WTW values are not being clipped. If you pick RGB full, the PS3 remaps the values and clips off BTB and WTW values. Super white simply passes the information on. Before playing the disc make sure ambient light sensor and led dynamic control is off so it does not mess around with your TV while you are calibrating. Also, make sure you reset cinema mode and use it as your scene.
Back light mostly depends on your viewing environment, whether it is in a dim lit room or a very bright room etc. I left it at 5 which makes it not too bright so my eyes hurt and didn't introduce any significant clouding.
Brightness should always be tinkered with before contrast so fire up the disc and head on over to the basic settings menu and you will be presented with a brightness pattern. What you want do is to lower brightness so that everything from 16 and under blends in. If you cannot see anything fewer than 16 flashing remember you want to turn super white on. 50 is dead on, if you start turning it down from there you are losing black detail, turn it up too high and your blacks are dull and washed out.
Picture/contrast should be calibrated with the third video provided in the basic settings. You want to see all the bars flashing because those are WTW and WTW are sometimes used in movies for cloud detail and other bright parts. You will find if you put picture over 96 it will start washing out some of the white detail, so chuck it on anything fewer than 96 or on, that suits your viewing conditions and preference. I settled in for 95.
For colour, you will need a blue filter or if you have a blue mode on your TV turn that on. Go to the fourth chapter of the basic settings. The grey bar on the left has a flashing blue box and the blue bar has a flashing grey box. Look through a blue filter at these two bars. You want to set the colour so grey and blue match. When this happens you would see no flashing on the centre of the boxes while looking through the blue colour filter. 50 seems to do the job nicely.
Hue should not be changed if you are using a HDMI cable, so leave it on 0.
I found the whites were still a bit blue even on the warm 2 setting on colour temperature. So leave it on warm 2 because it’s the closest it gets to 6500 Kelvin colour temperature.
You want to head on over to the last section to calibrate sharpness. Ideally, you want raise sharpness as high as possible without introducing any haloing or banding. 3 seemed to be the best number for this case. You might also want to check if your TV overscanning the video. If you cannot see the outside white line that borders the video, your TV or player is cropping the picture. To solve this problem on your TV press internet video and go left to settings. Find the display settings and click on screen. For display area, you want to change it from normal to full pixel for 1:1 pixel mapping. Also, do not use any of the zoom options for aspect.
Noise reduction should be off on your player and TV otherwise it might result in loss of detail.
Motion flow should be off if you do not like that super smooth effect or you do not like the artefacts that it introduces. However, if you do not mind clear and clear plus seemed to give the highest motion resolution in my tests. They mainly depend on backlight blinking and only uses a small amount of motion interpolation unlike standard and smooth. Cinemadirve/CineMotion should be on auto 2 if you want inverse telecine and auto 1 does that and adds some motion interpolation.
Black corrector, adv contrast enhancer, light limiter, clear white and live colour should all be turned off.
Gamma should be left at 0, like Omar stated the ambient light sensor does a nice job of that.
LED Dynamic control should be left on standard to achieve the inky blacks that this set is famous for.
A professional should only configure white balance. So leave the default values.
Colour Matrix and RGB dynamic range should be left on auto.
Up scaling should be normal for comfortable viewing. The black borders are annoying to look at.
HDMI output is YCbCr
Super white is on
24p is on
50hz is on
Turn ambient light sensor and LED dynamic control back on, pop in a nice bluray movie of your choice, and see if what you stare at is natural, realistic and immersive.
My final settings for 2D HD playback follows:
Scene Mode : Cinema
Backlight : 5
Picture : 95
Brightness : 50
Colour : 50
Hue : 0
Colour Temp : Warm 2
Sharpness : 3
Noise Reduction : Off
MPEG Noise Reduction : Off
Motion Flow : Off
CinemaDrive/Cinemotion : Auto 2
Black Corrector : Off
Adv Contrast Enhancer : Off
Gamma : 0
LED Dynamic Control : Standard
Auto Light Limiter : Off
Clear White : Off
Live Colour : Off
White Balance: Factory Default