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Official Sony KDL-xxHX800 Calibration Settings Thread - Page 7

post #181 of 211
Hi everybody I just wanted to contribute with my two cents. I have an 46 HX729 and I'm using Omar's calibration settings except that I put the motion flow in standard. I'm loving every bluray that I watch. The smooth motion flow feature create a lot of ghost in movies, sure you can put it in auto 2 and everything seems fine but auto 2 isn't working on the bluray, that is why it seems that it is better. Auto 2 is more for sd programming. (not always) BTW remember to change the white balance to Omar's set, it helps a lot.

I'm also using this calibration with the 3d obviously using auto 2 because its the only one that can be used except of off. But I put the picture setting at max and in white balance I leave everything at 0 except the first red bar, that I put it on -1.

I hope these tweaks to an already awesome calibration helps you out. Cheers!
post #182 of 211
I bought a 55hx800 about 9 months ago and have been noticing that there are vertical bands on the TV. They are there on all content over all inputs, and are very noticeable when the screen is a single colour.

There are 3 pairs of 2 lines it seems.

Is this defect covered by the warranty? As at first I thought it might go away, but now that my eye has become more refined to bluray I find it annoying me.
post #183 of 211
I've had this tv for a few months now...

What settings would you guys recommend for Blu ray in a dark room?
post #184 of 211
Quote:
Originally Posted by dochollerin View Post

I bought a 55hx800 about 9 months ago and have been noticing that there are vertical bands on the TV. They are there on all content over all inputs, and are very noticeable when the screen is a single colour.

There are 3 pairs of 2 lines it seems.

Is this defect covered by the warranty? As at first I thought it might go away, but now that my eye has become more refined to bluray I find it annoying me.

I have the same thing on mine (same model) It appears it's the "dirty screen effect" that appears on almost all LCD and plasma TVs (according to the research I've done on the internet). I have not been able to get rid of it. I don't know if it's covered under warranty and if it is and they replace the panel, the chances are high that you will still have the same problem. I'm learning to just live with it, although it is annoying at times. I've been doing a little reading and am going to try to make some minor adjustments to my settings to see if I can reduce the effect. If anyone has any suggestions, let me know. Thanks
post #185 of 211
Quote:
Originally Posted by azstang95 View Post

I have the same thing on mine (same model) It appears it's the "dirty screen effect" that appears on almost all LCD and plasma TVs (according to the research I've done on the internet). I have not been able to get rid of it. I don't know if it's covered under warranty and if it is and they replace the panel, the chances are high that you will still have the same problem. I'm learning to just live with it, although it is annoying at times. I've been doing a little reading and am going to try to make some minor adjustments to my settings to see if I can reduce the effect. If anyone has any suggestions, let me know. Thanks

I may be wrong but I don't think the "Dirty Screen Effect" travels in pairs of lines on the screen. To me this is a problem with the panel and should be covered. My HX55 does not have this issue and neither does my 32 Bravia. You would only see "Dirty Screen" with a solid white backround like watching hockey.
post #186 of 211
Quote:
Originally Posted by brushrop03 View Post

I've had this tv for a few months now...

What settings would you guys recommend for Blu ray in a dark room?

About where I'm at. I've gotten a bluray machine, and I've been collecting some good transfers that really show off the HX800. A friend has a 42 Panny S series plasma, and I can see where his is a little kinder and forgiving, but feed the HX a nice blu and it's really the best I've ever seen. Here's around what I do on my settings, you can also try experimenting with the "Smooth" and "Auto 1" as mentioned earlier in the thread- this gives more dimension, in the end I decided it looks too artificial, so the clear 1 or off is the setting I arrived at:

Backlight 6
Picture/Contrast 89
Brightness 52
Color 48
Hue R5
Color Temp: Neutral
Sharpness 5
NR: off
MPEG NR: off
Motionflow: Clear 1
Cinemotion: Auto 1
Black Corrector: off
Contrast Enhancer: off
Gamma -1
LED Dynamic: Low
Auto Light: off
Clear white: Off
Live Color: off
RGB Matrix: Auto

White Balance:
R gain 0
G Gain -8
B Gain -1
R Bias -1
G Bias -7
B Bias -1
post #187 of 211
Both left and right side of the tv is darker than i think it should be. i can see it when the screen is mostly solid colors. is there i fix with the setting or should i exchange this set?
LL
LL
post #188 of 211
Quote:
Originally Posted by mplates View Post

I may be wrong but I don't think the "Dirty Screen Effect" travels in pairs of lines on the screen. To me this is a problem with the panel and should be covered. My HX55 does not have this issue and neither does my 32 Bravia. You would only see "Dirty Screen" with a solid white backround like watching hockey.

You're right, however it can be seen with any solid color but more prominent on the lighter colors. Also you can't see it unless there is motion on the screen. If it is just a solid color without any motion (like viewing a picture) you won't see it. On motion it can appear as pairs of lines on the screen albiet very faint. It can be annoying but nothing you can do to my knowledge.
post #189 of 211
Quote:
Originally Posted by azstang95 View Post

You're right, however it can be seen with any solid color but more prominent on the lighter colors. Also you can't see it unless there is motion on the screen. If it is just a solid color without any motion (like viewing a picture) you won't see it. On motion it can appear as pairs of lines on the screen albiet very faint. It can be annoying but nothing you can do to my knowledge.

I still think its your panel. My HX800 does not exhibit what you describe.
post #190 of 211
Quote:
Originally Posted by azstang95 View Post

You're right, however it can be seen with any solid color but more prominent on the lighter colors. Also you can't see it unless there is motion on the screen. If it is just a solid color without any motion (like viewing a picture) you won't see it. On motion it can appear as pairs of lines on the screen albiet very faint. It can be annoying but nothing you can do to my knowledge.

Same thing with mine films look amazing and never notice it but watching sport football, nfl as the camera pans its bad really annoying as its worsted at the bottom half of the screen in the centre as that's where your looking the most during football.

I watch ice hockey too but don't really notice it that much. This is my second screen and have just lived with it. Maybe I should get it sorted now as they will will have to replace with a newer model I lost hope in this telly. Shame as it won loads of awards but I believe Sony cut Quality Control once they have the awards the first screen was so bad even films its was noticeable.

Any one else replace there telly for this reason? I got mine at John Lewis.
post #191 of 211
Scene Mode : General

Picture Mode : Standard
Backlight : 4
Picture : 70
Brightness : 50
Color : 40
Hue : 0
Color Temp : Neutral
Sharpness : 5
Noise Reduction : Off
MPEG Noise Reduction : Off

Motion Flow : Standard (Smooth for sporting events)
Cinemotion : Off

Black Corrector : Medium
Adv Contrast Enhancer : Medium
Gamma : -1
LED Dynamic Control : Standard
Auto Light Limiter : High
Clear White : Off
Live Color : Medium

White Balance Factory Default
R-Gain 0
G-Gain 0
B-Gain 0
R-Bias 0
G-Bias 0
B-Bias 0

Color Matrix : Auto
RGB Dynamic Range : Auto

Power Save : Low
Ambient Light Sensor : Off

These settings are used in conjunction with the TiVo Premiere Elite HD DVR.
Should work equally well with any of the TiVo Premieres but the Elite drives blacks the best as it is THX certified.
post #192 of 211
Quote:
Originally Posted by amatot View Post

Scene Mode : General

Picture Mode : Standard
Backlight : 4
Picture : 70
Brightness : 50
Color : 40
Hue : 0
Color Temp : Neutral
Sharpness : 5
Noise Reduction : Off
MPEG Noise Reduction : Off

Motion Flow : Standard (Smooth for sporting events)
Cinemotion : Off

Black Corrector : Medium
Adv Contrast Enhancer : Medium
Gamma : -1
LED Dynamic Control : Standard
Auto Light Limiter : High
Clear White : Off
Live Color : Medium

White Balance Factory Default
R-Gain 0
G-Gain 0
B-Gain 0
R-Bias 0
G-Bias 0
B-Bias 0

Color Matrix : Auto
RGB Dynamic Range : Auto

Power Save : Low
Ambient Light Sensor : Off

These settings are used in conjunction with the TiVo Premiere Elite HD DVR.
Should work equally well with any of the TiVo Premieres but the Elite drives blacks the best as it is THX certified.

yea,tried it,its a good platform as it leaves room for tweaking,(which gladly is an affliction i lost some time ago).I was casually looking back at the owners thread & the amount of op's complaining about clouding,mura not flashlighting.As soon as you press "custom" all of that became 95% obsolete anyway.That few pages sigprime showing unbelievable clouding,had to be an low-level RGB signal with maybe a bad source feeding into the TV.Im not saying the tv is totally immune from clouding,but its 1 (to this day) of the better edge-LED sets,the dimming whether considered local or dimming blocks,was a big win in regards to P-Q,deep blacks for Sony,which is why their 2012 hx850 is using the same dynamic led system except on the XR-PRO 960hz (480hz pro) chip.I originally got my calibration from Flatpanelshd.com,which i was delighted with,but when i pressed theatre mode there was very little difference to the picture ,so i changed live col to low & motionflow to standard & that i have been happy with since,but im going to give yours a go for a few days as it takes a bit of time to see the differences with different sources & moves.I suppose your gonna get a few folks that'll try it for 10mins,then say:"Them settings aren't for me"...
post #193 of 211
Quote:
Originally Posted by maladjusted View Post

yea,tried it,its a good platform as it leaves room for tweaking,(which gladly is an affliction i lost some time ago).I was casually looking back at the owners thread & the amount of op's complaining about clouding,mura not flashlighting.As soon as you press "custom" all of that became 95% obsolete anyway.That few pages sigprime showing unbelievable clouding,had to be an low-level RGB signal with maybe a bad source feeding into the TV.Im not saying the tv is totally immune from clouding,but its 1 (to this day) of the better edge-LED sets,the dimming whether considered local or dimming blocks,was a big win in regards to P-Q,deep blacks for Sony,which is why their 2012 hx850 is using the same dynamic led system except on the XR-PRO 960hz (480hz pro) chip.I originally got my calibration from Flatpanelshd.com,which i was delighted with,but when i pressed theatre mode there was very little difference to the picture ,so i changed live col to low & motionflow to standard & that i have been happy with since,but im going to give yours a go for a few days as it takes a bit of time to see the differences with different sources & moves.I suppose your gonna get a few folks that'll try it for 10mins,then say:"Them settings aren't for me"...

Couldn't agree more; Sig's failure was weird. Believable? Sure. Not indicative of the norm? Absolutely. And yes, some will try and NOT buy the settings I've posted. Buy-in isn't the intent - it's a starting point. Many people don't have a clue where to start, so hence my point of reference. Just trying to be helpful. There are too many variables to mention, but the most important ones are personal taste, ones eyes and the viewing environment. Trying anything for several days is good advice to be sure. The process takes time...
post #194 of 211
As ive mentioned ive being buying sony tv's as long as i can remember.This panel is way past popping a THX optimiser disc & within 5mins your picture calibration was sorted.Soundwise on an AVR for the phase and basic sound checking its still handy just to make sure your multi-ch set up is alive,at least.As this calibration for this tv could bring interesting recommendations,but then trying to discern which calibration system works for the particular individual,whats the best official /non official calibration disc or download to include 3D to get seen as this set is a 3D set,might as well have the most reasonable chance of getting it as close as possible.I must admit i was so taken with the 2D-HD & SD performance of this tv,3D was a bonus more than a future option (as i got the 3D bundle included in the price).But the more 3D i watch,whichever method,but bluray 3D absolutely shines,i love the depth of how far the detail can go,esp on a good live action bluray 3D movie.I know there are a lot of 3D TV owners who still say 3D is crap without even trying it,but i for 1 want the best alround picture i can be afforded,be it 2 or 3D HD.Getting back on track if anyone can point me in the right direction,i'd much appreciate it.
post #195 of 211
Quote:
Originally Posted by jst527 View Post

Both left and right side of the tv is darker than i think it should be. i can see it when the screen is mostly solid colors. is there i fix with the setting or should i exchange this set?

The edge lighting comes from the top & bottom of the screen on the hx800,as you probably know.Just a suggestion: if your tv is too bright or has too much brightness in your general picture,which looks very vivid & bright,on my tv (46hx803) on the 2nd picture.it could show darker sides,i haven't noticed it either,but it might be a possibility ...good luck.
post #196 of 211
Guys I saw this product and decided to give it a try. Its a Mololith Glass like the Gorilla Glass maybe better I'd say, and man was I impressed it worked perfect on my sisters EX720. Actualy the viewing angles improved dramaticaly too, clouding and flashlighting were seriously reduced, i wanna say eliminated cause I really cant see anymore halowing due to local dimming and corner leakage. Best is the blacks seriously improved AMAZING stuff...... The picture had a glow kinda like Samsung LED sets overall best to describe is that the EX720 ended looking stunning kinda like a HX820 with Gorila Glass and opticontrast...



http://www.ebay.com/itm/170822135944...84.m1555.l2649
post #197 of 211
Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMTUFF View Post

Guys I saw this product and decided to give it a try. Its a Mololith Glass like the Gorilla Glass maybe better I'd say, and man was I impressed it worked perfect on my sisters EX720. Actualy the viewing angles improved dramaticaly too, clouding and flashlighting were seriously reduced, i wanna say eliminated cause I really cant see anymore halowing due to local dimming and corner leakage. Best is the blacks seriously improved AMAZING stuff...... The picture had a glow kinda like Samsung LED sets overall best to describe is that the EX720 ended looking stunning kinda like a HX820 with Gorila Glass and opticontrast...



http://www.ebay.com/itm/170822135944...84.m1555.l2649

"Mololith Glass"?

This dude is plastering the various non-Monolith Sony threads on AVS with this cut-and-paste garbage.
Dude can't spell, rages massive butt-hurt and gets awful defensive about a fairly expensive sheet of Lexan/Plexiglass from some bottom-feeding Ebay merchant.

Use common sense with this clown folks!
post #198 of 211
Quote:
Originally Posted by amatot View Post

"Mololith Glass"?

This dude is plastering the various non-Monolith Sony threads on AVS with this cut-and-paste garbage.
Dude can't spell, rages massive butt-hurt and gets awful defensive about a fairly expensive sheet of Lexan/Plexiglass from some bottom-feeding Ebay merchant.

Use common sense with this clown folks!

Yeah, I was about to post the old P.T. Barnum saying, but you said everything much better. Can anyone imagine, someone coming out with a piece of junk that will outperform Corning's?
post #199 of 211
Just a note to say my 40hx800 is still going strong and the calibration settings from all are great reference tools.

I hope everyone is enjoying their sets as much as I am.
post #200 of 211
I have the kdl 55hx800 and want to know if motionflow is off is the refresh rate still 240hz. I talked to sony they say 240hz but don't really seem to sure about their answer
Edited by enigma7820 - 4/28/13 at 3:36pm
post #201 of 211
See post 2 on page 1....'off is 120hz'
post #202 of 211
My bad....standard is 120, smooth 240, off is off.
post #203 of 211
Thanks I just went with a 2013 model with passive 3d and way better screen uniformity. I couldnt stand the black scenes on my hx800 anymore and the fact I.cant adust backlight when viewing 3d
post #204 of 211
Off is not off the screen still has to have a refresh rate, so off is 120hz I assume
post #205 of 211
Post # 161, by Julkruk, seems to have not been answered ....basically, should RGB be used vs YCC
by your components (cable box, bluray player, dvd player, DVR)?

We know that the Sony should be set at Auto.

Any thoughts*
post #206 of 211
I scanned a number of sites and articles on the web... General consensus is to leave everything as ycc and Sony as auto.
post #207 of 211

Hi tcd2004,

I love this TV just like I love Sony. I watch in a very brightly lit environment and I use the same settings in all inputs. I spent very little time calibrating this set, due to the fact it comes with Sony's theater mode which only needs very little tweaks here and there. These are my settings for the hx800, sorry for my spelling and grammar, I am only 12.

 

First of all you want to chose cinema for the scene selection because it is the most accurate. Then head on over to picture settings and prepare yourself. The first option is back light which changes how dim or bright the edge lit led is. This option mainly depends on your viewing conditions but I put it on 5 which gives respectable blacks and nice whites. After that comes picture (contrast) which is one of the most  

 

need to go!

i will edit this later!

post #208 of 211

There should be a standard calibration setting for the 40HX800, based on scientific measurements and maximized accuracy of greyscale tracking and correlated color temperature. The common standard of D65: Color temperature is constant 6500K (K=Kelvin) all over the greyscale.

 

I am surprized that Sony, or some other technical authority, has not presented such setting figures.

 

I think that this reviewer for instance should have shared the figures he got from his calibration adjustments.

http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/sony-kdl-40hx803-kdl-46hx803-20100925858.htm

post #209 of 211

For people who want a free alternative for calibrating their TV read on and you will find the link.

 

First head on over to http://www.avsforum.com/t/948496/avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration and download the AVC HD version. You also might want the patterns manual for references. After it finishes downloading unzip it and burn it onto a compatible disc.

Then you need to make sure, if you are using a PS3 you use YCbCr and turn on the super white setting. This can be found by playing the disc and pressing the triangle button on the PS3 remote and going over into the AV settings. This makes sure you get the full dynamic range from the disc so BTB and WTW values are not being clipped. If you pick RGB full, the PS3 remaps the values and clips off BTB and WTW values. Super white simply passes the information on. Before playing the disc make sure ambient light sensor and led dynamic control is off so it does not mess around with your TV while you are calibrating. Also, make sure you reset cinema mode and use it as your scene. 

 

Calibration:

 

Back light mostly depends on your viewing environment, whether it is in a dim lit room or a very bright room etc. I left it at 5 which makes it not too bright so my eyes hurt and didn't introduce any significant clouding.

 

Brightness should always be tinkered with before contrast so fire up the disc and head on over to the basic settings menu and you will be presented with a brightness pattern. What you want do is to lower brightness so that everything from 16 and under blends in. If you cannot see anything fewer than 16 flashing remember you want to turn super white on. 50 is dead on, if you start turning it down from there you are losing black detail, turn it up too high and your blacks are dull and washed out.

 

Picture/contrast should be calibrated with the third video provided in the basic settings. You want to see all the bars flashing because those are WTW and WTW are sometimes used in movies for cloud detail and other bright parts. You will find if you put picture over 96 it will start washing out some of the white detail, so chuck it on anything fewer than 96 or on, that suits your viewing conditions and preference. I settled in for 95. 

For colour, you will need a blue filter or if you have a blue mode on your TV turn that on. Go to the fourth chapter of the basic settings. The grey bar on the left has a flashing blue box and the blue bar has a flashing grey box. Look through a blue filter at these two bars. You want to set the colour so grey and blue match. When this happens you would see no flashing on the centre of the boxes while looking through the blue colour filter. 50 seems to do the job nicely.

 

Hue should not be changed if you are using a HDMI cable, so leave it on 0.

 

I found the whites were still a bit blue even on the warm 2 setting on colour temperature. So leave it on warm 2 because it’s the closest it gets to 6500 Kelvin colour temperature.

 

You want to head on over to the last section to calibrate sharpness. Ideally, you want raise sharpness as high as possible without introducing any haloing or banding. 3 seemed to be the best number for this case. You might also want to check if your TV overscanning the video. If you cannot see the outside white line that borders the video, your TV or player is cropping the picture. To solve this problem on your TV press internet video and go left to settings. Find the display settings and click on screen. For display area, you want to change it from normal to full pixel for 1:1 pixel mapping. Also, do not use any of the zoom options for aspect.

 

Noise reduction should be off on your player and TV otherwise it might result in loss of detail.

 

Motion flow should be off if you do not like that super smooth effect or you do not like the artefacts that it introduces. However, if you do not mind clear and clear plus seemed to give the highest motion resolution in my tests. They mainly depend on backlight blinking and only uses a small amount of motion interpolation unlike standard and smooth. Cinemadirve/CineMotion should be on auto 2 if you want inverse telecine and auto 1 does that and adds some motion interpolation.

 

Black corrector, adv contrast enhancer, light limiter, clear white and live colour should all be turned off.

 

 Gamma should be left at 0, like Omar stated the ambient light sensor does a nice job of that.

 

LED Dynamic control should be left on standard to achieve the inky blacks that this set is famous for.

 

A professional should only configure white balance. So leave the default values.

 

Colour Matrix and RGB dynamic range should be left on auto.

 

PS3 Settings:

 

Up scaling should be normal for comfortable viewing. The black borders are annoying to look at.

HDMI output is YCbCr

Super white is on

24p is on

50hz is on

 

Turn ambient light sensor and LED dynamic control back on, pop in a nice bluray movie of your choice, and see if what you stare at is natural, realistic and immersive.

My final settings for 2D HD playback follows:

 

Scene Mode : Cinema
 
Backlight : 5
Picture : 95
Brightness : 50
Colour : 50
Hue : 0
Colour Temp : Warm 2
Sharpness : 3
Noise Reduction : Off
MPEG Noise Reduction : Off

Motion Flow : Off
CinemaDrive/Cinemotion : Auto 2

Black Corrector : Off
Adv Contrast Enhancer : Off
Gamma : 0
LED Dynamic Control : Standard
Auto Light Limiter : Off
Clear White : Off
Live Colour : Off

White Balance: Factory Default

 

Hamdika69:D

post #210 of 211
Quote:
Originally Posted by amatot View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMTUFF View Post



"Mololith Glass"?


This dude is plastering the various non-Monolith Sony threads on AVS with this cut-and-paste garbage.

Dude can't spell, rages massive butt-hurt and gets awful defensive about a fairly expensive sheet of Lexan/Plexiglass from some bottom-feeding Ebay merchant.


Use common sense with this clown folks!


Damn amatot talk about laying the smack down on someone! biggrin.gif
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