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Fetch's Theater Build - 95% complete!!! - Page 3

post #61 of 176
Radius is 3", not 6" smile.gif

(don't feel bad, I was corrected for the same mistake)

Tim
post #62 of 176
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

Radius is 3", not 6" smile.gif
(don't feel bad, I was corrected for the same mistake)
Tim

What ever do you mean? biggrin.gif Fixed, thanks Tim. So two 6" supplies and one 8" return.

Supplies on sides of screen, pointed on an angle towards floor before front seat and return centered in rear, pointed straight down.

Should I have the 2 supplies come off the main trunk separately or come with one line to the theater side and then split into two?
post #63 of 176
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdika17 View Post

What ever do you mean? biggrin.gif Fixed, thanks Tim. So two 6" supplies and one 8" return.
Supplies on sides of screen, pointed on an angle towards floor before front seat and return centered in rear, pointed straight down.
Should I have the 2 supplies come off the main trunk separately or come with one line to the theater side and then split into two?

smile.gif

I think the 1-8" return positioned as you described will work fine.

I would have the two supplies come off the trunk separately. If you will have access, I would use a takeoff with a damper on each supply so you can balance them.

Tim
post #64 of 176
What is this paint color??
I recently purchased my HT projo, and I'm starting work on the dedicated room. I've probably gone through 6 different gray samples, haven't found one I like yet! This is pretty much exactly what I've had pictured for paint color.
post #65 of 176
Thread Starter 
I'd have to wait till I got home to check the paint can if I still have it. I was a premium paint by Behr from HD.
post #66 of 176
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

smile.gif
I think the 1-8" return positioned as you described will work fine.
I would have the two supplies come off the trunk separately. If you will have access, I would use a takeoff with a damper on each supply so you can balance them.
Tim

I don't think i'd be able to have access to them once everything is buttoned up. Any other options?
post #67 of 176
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdika17 View Post

I'd have to wait till I got home to check the paint can if I still have it. I was a premium paint by Behr from HD.

Well let me know if you still have it. I WANT THAT COLOR, lol.
post #68 of 176
Thread Starter 
Update to HVAC setup.

Got A/C and Humidifier installed today!

Talked with HVAC guy and here are the new plans.

hvac-1.jpg
post #69 of 176
It looks like you may be turning your AT screen into a giant air filter? (there is recent discussion about this in another thread-- don't remember which one)

Tim
post #70 of 176
Thread Starter 
That return will be in a soffit
post #71 of 176
Thread Starter 
Finalizing my plan
floorplanaug2012.jpg

Anything comments?

I want decent lighting, would i need to add a few more 3" cans in light tray? Or will there be enough light with what i have planned?
Edited by cdika17 - 8/3/12 at 1:57am
post #72 of 176
Thread Starter 
I want to eventually do a star ceiling, what do i need to run for cable, just an outlet and maybe a cat6 cable?
post #73 of 176
Thread Starter 
Running into a problem area I think. Ill be running clips/channel on this wall, but in the middle I have the black thermopan joist liner stuff for the returns for my living room. How do i go about treating this area, this spot wouldn't have insulation and I would think be a weak spot. Any suggestions?

B100B1BC.jpg
post #74 of 176
Are you talking about that area that looks like black tarpaper?

IMG_2308.jpg

Depending on your choice of clips, the back surface of the theater drywall will sit over an inch off the studs, So put two layers of 3/8 drywall with green glue stud to stud covering the area. Or put an inch of dense insulation such as OC703. Linacoustic or bonded cotton over the area. Just be sure it doesn't touch the theater drywall.
post #75 of 176
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Are you talking about that area that looks like black tarpaper?

Depending on your choice of clips, the back surface of the theater drywall will sit over an inch off the studs, So put two layers of 3/8 drywall with green glue stud to stud covering the area. Or put an inch of dense insulation such as OC703. Linacoustic or bonded cotton over the area. Just be sure it doesn't touch the theater drywall.

Yes thats the spot, sorry crappy iphone picture, it's a plastic joist runner they call it. I have a box of whisperclips, so yah about an inch. I have 300 sq ft of 2" OC703 but I don't have quick access to 1" oc703, linacoustic or cotton, everything needs to be ship as there is nothing local(stupid great white north!) SO double 3/8 with GG it is, which I have 4 pails of.

Thanks BIG. Have you ever wanted to visit the Northern Prairies of Alberta? Sure could use some help wink.gif
post #76 of 176
Thread Starter 
Wondering how I would finish the storage side of the theater room. Plan to put up 5/8 drywall on the storage side. Rest of storage will not be finished so Im not quite sure how to do this. Would I come straight up from wall into the joist cavities with the drywall then silentseal around the edges?

For the first picture I would insulate from beam back into storage room, then go straight up into joist with drywall on storage side? I guess i would have to make sure that the drywall doesn't actually touch any of the joist so that i am not coupleing the wall. Leave a gap to then use silentseal.

FC050256.jpg
9D940230.jpg
6BE25910.jpg
Edited by cdika17 - 8/19/12 at 10:27am
post #77 of 176
Thread Starter 
Ran into another snag.

How would I go about framing around the stairs? It juts out into the room a bit and wondering how with clips and channel that this would work.

E6BD7885.jpg
FBDD0297.jpg
5C0D3C90.jpg

Previous owner had basement finished and looks like they notched the stairs on one side, hope that doesnt cause any problems.

Also you can see my return line in pictures that will then go into soffit and to back of room.

AND would i fill this cavity with insulation or just the surface areas?
post #78 of 176
I think your only option for the stairs would be to box them in. Since your soffit is going to be back there anyway, you could hide it behind your soffit. This is no BIG sketch, but maybe it will clarify what I'm thinking.

Stairs.png

If you are thinking of a sloped ceiling there, I would probably contact Ted and run it by him.

Also, how long are your supply and return ducts? Keep in mind that a 90 degree bend adds an equivalent length of 30 pipe diameters (IIRC). So each 90 degree bend would be like adding an additional 13' to your run for a 5" duct. I think the general recommendation is not to exceed 25' of duct length, but there is al to that goes into sizing those things.

EDIT: I'm not sure why the image is rotated like that. It's not like that in my photo bucket account?




.
post #79 of 176
Thread Starter 
My one supply is 25' and it doesn't quite get to where i want it, probably be close to my front right column and the other supply would be about 14'. My return which is 25' also doesnt get to where i want it. Id be looking to add 10' or so to the return and 12' or so to the other supply. Unfortunately I am doing an existing basement reno and can't get to my main trunk lines, so i have to go off what was already there. And keeping with my current hvac plan, i am going to have runs longer than 25'.
post #80 of 176
25' is just a rule of thumb (I think), but as you're lines get longer, your flow will drop. The duct has some resistance to air flow, and as it gets longer, that resistance goes up.

At any rate, it sounds like your HVAC plan is pretty well set. However, I will offer one other suggestion. If you can leave yourself access to your supply and return lines before it meets that existing ducts, you could always come back and add inline fans if you don't have quite enough cooling capacity. This would help overcome that resistance and squeeze a few more CFM out of those lines if you need it. That way you can try it as is, and if it doesn't work well you still have some options.
post #81 of 176
Thread Starter 
I'll have access to the return as it runs through my storage room, supplies on the other hand will be tough once everything is buttoned up. Again without tearing down more finished basement, I don't have too many options. Hoping the 2-5" supplies will be enough to keep the room cool. It will be a vast improvement from the first theater. The addition of A/C and a return should be enough. Now, having the thermostat upstairs will be tricky but that's what you get with a single zone system.

Also to add, we get 3 months a year where we could see 85+ temps, otherwise being so far north definitely changes my application as far as cooling and heating.
post #82 of 176
Thread Starter 
Little Update

Filled in Joist Cavities like Bethesda.

FC1D80AB.jpg
2D022682.jpg

Wiring going into storage room all thru 1" & 2" conduit.

0E1A5C00.jpg
6CDE3872.jpg

Storage side of front wall. I lightly packed insulation in these joist cavities.

125DD87B.jpg

Front wall

AAAAF0DE.jpg

Left Side

C2EACCA6.jpg

Right Side

EE302A72.jpg

Rear

5C10D1E4.jpg

Some color samples. Chairs will be a chocolate leather color and this ottoman will also be in the front. Trying to figure out how things will look.

13863398.jpg
post #83 of 176
Thread Starter 
Got this far and ran out of clips, Son of a !!!!!
Hope to have the rest of clips next week. At least I can start to hang osb on the ceiling and walls that are done.

Back
B0D7FCB3.jpg
Left side
EDF4F516.jpg
Right side
D8780AF0.jpg
Front
27069780.jpg
post #84 of 176
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdika17 View Post

Got this far and ran out of clips, Son of a !!!!!

That's the way it always works wink.gif. I ended up changing things around slightly, so I was five clips short frown.gif. I would do the math to determine how many you need to finish and add a couple of extra clips. You will find something you need them for.
post #85 of 176
Thread Starter 
Yah I feverishly phoned John and got him to send me another 70 clips! Don't know how I under estimated so badly but nonetheless they should be here next week.


Chase "Fetch"
post #86 of 176
Thread Starter 
Trying to figure out a color scheme, either gonna go with brown, black, neutral or black and red like in bacon race.

July2012panels_zpsdc92fd6c.jpg


Is this to blah and dark? I really want black and brown but don't want it to look to boring.
post #87 of 176
I like it.. it is very similar to what I am doing. Pretty much the same, but I am going to have red absorption panels breaking up the brown.

My thinking was, yeah.. I want it to look cool, but moreover I want to enjoy the movies.

Tim
post #88 of 176
Thread Starter 
Thinking of going with a seymour center stage xd screen, 160" wide, then use making panels to turn it into 130" wide 2.35 screen. Gives me 130" wide screen in 2.35 and still be big enough to give me a decent size 1.78 screen. Best of both worlds. Room will be mostly 60% TV/Sports/Video Games and 40% movies, this gives me the size that suits my room without sacrificing size of either format.

Thoughts?
Edited by cdika17 - 10/6/12 at 11:56pm
post #89 of 176
160" wide screen is a little big for a 14'-5" wide room. Depending on the width of the screen frame, you'll only have 2"-3" between the screen and the side walls. I'm sure you mentioned it, but how far back is your 1st row?
post #90 of 176
Thread Starter 
Ya there would be a few inches on each side, will never use the whole screen because of masking it down to proper size. 120" wide is as wide as it will ever be. Seats will roughly be 12' and 17'.

Don't know what else to do in order to keep a decent sized 16:9 screen. Besides having 2 screens.




Chase "Fetch"
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