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Vizio xvt3d554sv - Page 51

post #1501 of 1665
Didn't know this was active 3D- that makes a difference, as I've just checked out some passive 3D TVs and the halving of resolution is just not acceptable. I felt like I was going back to my old CRT, rather than the usual wowing at how great the picture is. The Active 3D sets I looked at did not have this problem. You still have to adjust the picture to compensate for the dark shade of the glasses, but I'm used to that as I have the 1990s LCD shutter glasses and movies from 3D TV Corporation, which don't work on my LCD screen now. (And talk about compromising resolution- you got half of a STANDARD-DEF picture's resolution with those!)

I had wanted the 60-inch Sharp LCD with active 3D, but playing with that at Fry's I've found you CANNOT defeat the 'smart-dimming' on it, which means the backlight goes completely out when the picture is black. I've ranted about that several times already, that just isn't acceptable. At least with the Vizio you can turn it off, though the black levels leave much to be desired that way.

I assume most people reading this thread own this TV already, so please feel free to chime in if you think I should take it for free or take the money and get another brand. The "perfect" TV likely doesn't exist especially in this price range, but I'm going to try and get as close as I can. I can tolerate the normal quirks with Vizio but not this frame-rate problem; if that's going to persist on this TV then I'll have to get something else.
post #1502 of 1665
I have the 554, and haven't noticed much of a frame rate problem. An occasional stutter all in all I'm very pleased with this 2 year old model.

I wouldn't buy one today, though. Regarding 3D, you lose a lot of fine-tuning options when in 3D mode (the TV does its own compensation for the glasses dimming the picture). With active shutter glasses you will get ghosting (how much varies by manufacturer & your eyes). Also I'm not such you can still find the Vizio glasses at a reasonable price since the company has discontinued use of Active 3D tech.

IMHO, I'd look at the LG LW models which get good reviews. If you must have active 3D, there is Sony, Samsung & Sharp.
post #1503 of 1665
hmm thankfully no frame rate problems here.
post #1504 of 1665
Have never seen a frame rate problem with this set.
post #1505 of 1665
I need some help identifing the ribbon type used in the QWERTY keyboard remote used with the XVT3D554SV. The ribbon used in the remote broke and I need to replace it. It's a little under a 1/4" wide and was about 3" long, it has 10 connections on it. I have taken a picture of it, but it is not a good one. Anybody know what this ribbon cable it called so I can buy a new one? Anybody have issues with their remote not working also? Thanks!
LL
post #1506 of 1665
Gamblehouse2003,
I need the exact same part and have not found it. Please let me know what you find.
post #1507 of 1665
no luck yet on cable, but if it helps i did find another remote (xrv1tv 3d), $22.00 ordered today, will tell you how it works when it arrives, here it is on amazon http://www.amazon.com/Vizio-Remote-C...pr_product_top

vizparts.com is a certified dealer for vizio and it says it will work with the xvt3d554sv, i hope it doesn't have the ir delay the universal remote by vizio from walmart has
(vru100) .... good luck!
LL
LL
post #1508 of 1665
Wow that remote is really how ours should have been designed. Hope it works.
post #1509 of 1665
Quote:
Originally Posted by WVUTampaAlum View Post

Wow that remote is really how ours should have been designed. Hope it works.

Too bad it doesn't have Bluetooth, but the less expensive sets it was designed for don't have that feature....
post #1510 of 1665
Hello all,

I am having issues with my xvt3d554sv after a thunderstorm and of course its 2 months out of warranty. The tv works fine powers up and menus work. The Composite and Component ports work fine, but all the hdmi ports quit working after a power outage. The ports worked fine before this. I was wondering if all I need to do is replace the main board to get new ports etc on the tv. Also is it an easy task to do? Just taking the back off unplugging a few cables, unscrewing the old board and putting a new one on? ITI quoted me $365 for parts and replacement, labor etc. But I can get a new board for $168 and save myself $200 dollars in the process. Is it an easy task? Or do you think there could be more underlying issues wrong with the tv? Thanks for you input!
post #1511 of 1665
Quote:
Originally Posted by atomic4877 View Post

Hello all,

I am having issues with my xvt3d554sv after a thunderstorm and of course its 2 months out of warranty. The tv works fine powers up and menus work. The Composite and Component ports work fine, but all the hdmi ports quit working after a power outage. The ports worked fine before this. I was wondering if all I need to do is replace the main board to get new ports etc on the tv. Also is it an easy task to do? Just taking the back off unplugging a few cables, unscrewing the old board and putting a new one on? ITI quoted me $365 for parts and replacement, labor etc. But I can get a new board for $168 and save myself $200 dollars in the process. Is it an easy task? Or do you think there could be more underlying issues wrong with the tv? Thanks for you input!

Was the TV power plugged into a surge supressor during the storm or was it just plugged straight into the wall outlet?
post #1512 of 1665
Quote:
Originally Posted by atomic4877 View Post

Hello all,

I am having issues with my xvt3d554sv after a thunderstorm and of course its 2 months out of warranty. The tv works fine powers up and menus work. The Composite and Component ports work fine, but all the hdmi ports quit working after a power outage....

Are you sure it is the TV not your HDMI source device? I assume you did a hard reboot of the TV (unplugging then holding the power button on replug). I'd pay the repair vendor, no telling was is really wrong with the set. Most vendors warrant their work. Good luck!
post #1513 of 1665
Everything else works fine ie xbox 360, blu ray, and direct tv. I plugged them all into another tv via hdmi and all of which worked fine. I have tried them all with there seperate hdmi cords and all the cords were ok. Im just trying to save money if its the main board and easy to fix.
post #1514 of 1665
The tv was plugged into a power strip but not a surge protector. I have never had issues before and everything else works fine that was plugged into it. I've read that vizio does not ground there hdmi ports and any little of current will make them blow.
post #1515 of 1665
Hands on review of the XRV1TV 3D remote used in - place - of the VUR10 sliding QWERTY remote for my XVT3D554SV.

I received the XRV1TV 3D in the mail today. I ordered this remote to replace a broken VUR10 (Factory Remote). The VUR10 remote's upper half became unresponsive after a small, yet to be identified, ribbon broke. This appears to be a problem found in all VUR10 remotes. If I knew the ribbons name, it is an easy fix, but alas I do not, so we had to purchase a replacement.

Knowing that Vizparts is a certified Vizio parts dealer and is referred to by Vizio for customers who are out of warranty I thought I would check there for remote options.

After a search of their website I found three "new" remote options. The VUR10, the XVR1TV (without 3D) and the XVR1TV 3D, which I am reviewing. The XVR1TV 3D ($21.49) was priced 3/4 less than the VUR10 ($80) and offered a stationary QWERTY keyboard on the back of the remote, but it was not bluetooth, an option which I was okay living without. The description indicated it replaced the VUR10, so I ordered one via Amazon from a company called MIMOTRON. At the time Vizparts was out of stock.

Shipping took 5 days and the remote arrived well packaged. Total cost $21.49.

First impressions I was ecstatic. Piano finish on front, flat finish on back, and a nice button layout.. It houses a shortcut to Netflix, Vudu, and Amazon, a Via button, and a 3d button.

My heart began to fall when I noticed that the battery compartment cover does not fit properly and feels easy to break, and the Via button sticks a little when pressed, but I was determined that this would be my answer and these little imperfections could be looked past.

But then I found some other things not so good. I do believe that I was so consumed with my savings I failed to notice it was NOT UNIVERSAL with no input control buttons (DVD, DVR, Cable, so forth.) I also failed to notice it did not come with a manual, due to there not being one at all, after an extensive online search for one, a manual simply doesn't exist.

Well, I first tried the power button and it worked, as well as, the Netflix, Vudu, and Amazon buttons. The entire front worked very well, including the Via button (a little sticky as noted.) I then set the remote to power on and control my Samsung Blu-ray Home Theatre through the audio settings found in the Vizio's menu options, this worked as well.

My next focus was the main reason for ordering. To be able to use the QWERTY keyboard to operate Youtube search and then use the front arrow buttons to select from the results. Well.... the QWERTY keyboard does NOT WORK with my XVT3D554SV. The only buttons to work is the o and the w, a problem also found when used with the XVT3D650SV as read in a review, on Amazon, by another customer.

Overall the design is great, but it is not a true across the board replacement for the VUR10. The only all-in-one option is the VUR10. This is terrible news, as the problem with them lies in a ribbon being too short and failing after multiple slides of the remote. After reading many current reviews and topics the VUR10 continues to fail, so Vizio has not fixed the ribbon issue.

Final thought.... my DIY fix.! I now have the XRV1TV 3D as my main remote. I have found that the QWERTY bottom half of the VUR10 operates fine without the upper half attached. So when I want to search Youtube I use the bottom half of the VUR10 to do so. I have stored away the upper half to reapply after I find out what that little ribbon is called, and I order one. It is not great, but it does the job, until we have a real remote to work with. Best of luck and happy viewing
post #1516 of 1665
Great info on the remote. Disappointing though. I really need some easy method to select my inputs.
post #1517 of 1665
I recall having to link the original remote to the TV to enable Bluetooth functionality. Maybe if you unlink the original remote the IR remote will work.
post #1518 of 1665
This site says it has the remote for $47.14

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...&prst=&shdMod=
post #1519 of 1665
I successfully replaced the flat flex cable (FFC) jumper used in the VUR10 remote to connect the top and bottom halves of the remote.

The cable I used was found at Digikey for $3.88: search for Digikey part number 732-3555-ND, from Wurth Electronics Inc, Mfg part number 687610050002.

Unfortunately this cable is too long for this application (2 inches instead of 1.65 inches), and I was unable to find a suitable off-the-shelf cable from any other distributor that was the correct length. I got around this issue by cutting the cable shorter and using an exacto knife and tweezers to cut/peel back the additional insulation necessary to make the connection. The cable was correct in every other aspect. The length is also rather important, as it can't be any shorter, or it will not reach when the remote is open, and it can't be any longer, or it will not fit properly folded when the remote is closed.

For anyone who wishes to search for another option, these are the dimensions of the original cable.
Length: 1.65 in
Pitch: 0.50 mm
Conductors: 10
Thickness: ~0.12 mm (thicker ones, e.g. 0.27 mm from molex, are too stiff for constant flexing)
Exposed Length: 4 mm
Termination Style: Top exposed on both sides (as opposed to top on one side, bottom on the other)

The process of peeling back the insulation is tedious and exacting, and I used a 10x magnifying eye loupe to perform the task. The process I used was to first score the insulation in the line between the conductors for all ten conductors (about 4mm long), then use the blunt edge of a wide-tipped tweezers to push back the insulation. This method was superior to simply scraping off the insulation with the exacto alone. I taped down the cable to a flat surface to prevent it from moving around while I was working on it. After I completed peeling back the insulation, I checked continuity between all the conductors with a Digital Multimeter, then cut the cable to length (1.65 in, as measure by a caliper).

After completing the cable shortening, I replaced the cable in the remote and it began functioning correctly again.

To take apart the remote, I used a flat head screwdriver (or two) and pried the back cover open. I found it easier to start on the short ends rather than the long sides. There are no screws that need to be taken out. Fortunately, the clips seemed to be fairly robust, and I did not damage any of them by prying them apart. The only thing to be careful of is not to mar the plastic with the screwdriver as you pry.

The cable can be removed by first peeling off the yellow Kapton tape holding it to the connector, then pulling the brown plastic piece of the connector forward (toward the cable). This is a ZIF socket (zero insertion force), so once the brown piece is moved forward, there shouldn't be anything holding the cable in. After putting the new cable in, push the brown piece back in (once the cable is pushed all the way in; it seems to catch a little at the opening), and replace the Kapton tape.

I'd be happy to answer any questions.
post #1520 of 1665
Well, I don't have a problem with my remote - yet. However, this is a great post with lots of great information. Thanks for taking the time to post it.
post #1521 of 1665
Yes, easily one of the most useful, intelligent first posts on AVSF.
post #1522 of 1665
I just had service on my 554 and they replaced all the boards. Can someone tell me what the latest FW is?
Thanks.
post #1523 of 1665
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burnerbum View Post

I just had service on my 554 and they replaced all the boards. Can someone tell me what the latest FW is?
Thanks.

I'm still on firmware update MP-VIA3D-XP5.0.1.0-S from December 16th. With the new boards, what firmware are you on now?
post #1524 of 1665
where do you find that? I looked in help => system info and no numbers like that anywhere

Version: VIZIO_XP2.7.9.1

by the way after they replaced my own boards (several tries) I havent had the balls to set up web access and get a "better firmware" and so far no issues.
post #1525 of 1665
Quote:
Originally Posted by naustin View Post

I'm still on firmware update MP-VIA3D-XP5.0.1.0-S from December 16th. With the new boards, what firmware are you on now?

XP2.7.9.1

Thanks for the replies.
post #1526 of 1665
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitey View Post

where do you find that? I looked in help => system info and no numbers like that anywhere

Version: VIZIO_XP2.7.9.1

by the way after they replaced my own boards (several tries) I havent had the balls to set up web access and get a "better firmware" and so far no issues.

I was thinking about that too since I don't use the Widgets. I have my 553 disconnected after reading about all the problems that started with the last FW.

I would like to know what each FW does in the way of fixes, enhancements etc before installing it.
post #1527 of 1665
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burnerbum View Post

XP2.7.9.1

Thanks for the replies.

I had my boards replaced and have not connected to the internet to get the newest firmware. Afraid to get the framerate problem again. I can watch Netflix on my bluray player which is the only app I really used.
post #1528 of 1665
Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryT0025 View Post

I had my boards replaced and have not connected to the internet to get the newest firmware. Afraid to get the framerate problem again. I can watch Netflix on my bluray player which is the only app I really used.

Have you tried to replicate your previous frame rate problems since the repair?
post #1529 of 1665
I'm not having any framerate issues at all right now. Shows that I was watching before on the DVR that had the issue do not right now, and I've had no problems with any blu ray or DVD. 24 was a big culprit and it plays fine now. I don't plan on "testing" any more firmwares to see if it comes back, that's for sure.
post #1530 of 1665
I connected my set to the internet last night and this moring it updated to XP5.0.1.0-S.

I figured I would let it update and if there are any problems I would find them while it's still under warranty. Even though I don't use the Widgets, I may later on so it's better to find out if there are problems now.
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