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Anthem MRX Receivers - 300, 500, 700 Owners Thread & Tweaking Guide - Page 414

post #12391 of 16453
Quote:
Originally Posted by dacaesar View Post

This does bring up an interesting question. Is there a preferable range that one would like to see ARC to set for Room Gain?
Thanks!

Everybody's room is different. It should be set to what the gain of the room is. The film mixer makes an assumption of about 3 db. Audio does not have any standard assumptions but probably more like 1.5-2db..
post #12392 of 16453
Does raising the room gain in ARC increase the bass further, or is it telling ARC that there's more natural gain in the room, and thus roll the bass back a bit?
post #12393 of 16453
Quote:
Originally Posted by dacaesar View Post

This does bring up an interesting question. Is there a preferable range that one would like to see ARC to set for Room Gain?
Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrike645 View Post

Everybody's room is different. It should be set to what the gain of the room is. The film mixer makes an assumption of about 3 db. Audio does not have any standard assumptions but probably more like 1.5-2db..

As Shrike645 stated, it depends on the room. And of course personal preference. The human mind has preconceived expectations when we enter a room based on it size, the way the room looks and the fact that it has four walls. We also just by interacting in a room, having conversations and listening to other well known sounds in the room, build an expectation of how the room should sound as our mind mentaly calculates the room gain for each room as we are in it.

The ideal Room Gain is one that meets our expectations in a particular room without sounding muddy or boomy, weak or flat. (Too much is bad as is too little). Idealy, if the room itself is pleasent and the speakers are correctly placed, than ARC will calculate a room gain that matches natrual gain of the room for you.

That having been said, most people probably prefer a little more bass than less.... even if it is not perfectly natural for the room, so you are less likely to hear complaints about a higher room gain number than a low one. And of course, ARC is making assumptions when it calculates your room gain based on what it hears. Depending on how you have your room setup and where you place your speakers, a little manual assistance in setting the room gain may help get the sound you are looking for.

Note: the mind is very good at adapting and also at recognizing its environment. Room Gain, if you were ouside, would likely sound very strange to your brain as it is not something you naturally encounter when standing in the middle of a field talking to a friend. smile.gif No Room Gain inside a confind space, would like wise sound very strange.
Edited by Tigger! - 9/28/12 at 7:17am
post #12394 of 16453
Quote:
Originally Posted by bd2003 View Post

Does raising the room gain in ARC increase the bass further, or is it telling ARC that there's more natural gain in the room, and thus roll the bass back a bit?

it would give more bass. you would see the bump in the curve at the lower end rise.
post #12395 of 16453
Quote:
Originally Posted by bd2003 View Post

Does raising the room gain in ARC increase the bass further, or is it telling ARC that there's more natural gain in the room, and thus roll the bass back a bit?

Idealy, the room gain that ARC picks should be based on the "natural curve" already being produced by your speakers in your room. With of course corrections applied to low and high points.

If you lower the room gain # ARC picked, than ARC will cut the curve/swell you see in the low end until you hit flat (a room gain of 0). Note, ARC will never attempt to create a negative room gain. A negative room gain would make no sense. Once you hit a room gain of 0, you are basically mimicking being outside with no walls around you or your sound source.

If you set the room gain higher, and your speakers are not currently loud enough to reach the curve the higher room gain requrires, than ARC will attempt to fill/correct the sound up to the calculated room gain you have requested. Of course, ARC can not indefinitely fill so at some point you maybe requesting a room gain of more than ARC has correction resources to meet.

We usually try to keep answers some what generic so they apply to others, not just the poster alone. However, as this discussion was initiated by the graphs that RaggedEdge posted, we can use them to highlight examples of what I just stated. Looking at the graphs in post: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1289533/anthem-mrx-receivers-300-500-700-owners-thread-tweaking-guide/12360#post_22441668, specifically the front Left and the Center speaker... we see that the front left when measured by ARC (red line) is falling short of the target line ARC has set (dashed line). We can also see that the target line from about 500Hz up is pretty much flat but that below 500 their is a slight hump in the dashed line. The slight hump is the cacluated room gain ARC is aiming for. If the room gain was set to 0, we would not see this slight hump but instead the dashed line would continue heading to the left on the same flat line as we see with the mid range (try setting the room gain to 0 if you like, re-calcualte and you will see what happens to the Dashed line as well as the Calculated line, the green line).

Now as the front Left is not currently naturally providing enough volume, we can see that ARC is boosting those frequencies to match the target line. If you increased the Room Gain, the swell in the low end dashed target line would increase and ARC would try even further to fill (though ARC can only add a maximum of about 6db, if you need more you will start to see the calculated curve can not reach the target line).

So the left front is a good example of a speaker that is boosting to reach the desired room gain.

If we look at the center speaker, however, you will see the same dashed target line, with the same amount of swell in the dashed line, however the measured line is much higher than what ARC is aiming for. In this case, ARC has cut the level of the speaker down to match the desired room gain ARC has calculated.

As it is typically easier for a receiver to lower the levels of a frequency than raise them and because usually you can cut more than you can gain (again ARC is limited to about +6db of gain), we would usually like to see the natural measure curve be slightly higher than the target curve instead of lower... when possible. Not to much higher, but a little bit higher. If the measured curve is more than +8 to +10db higher than the target curve, we really should look to try and reduce the amount of boundary gain the speaker is seeing by pulling it out away from the walls to see if we can get the natural measured curve to fall more in line with the desired target curve.

So, if we find we have to much boundary gain (the large mountain seen in the low end of the center), we want to try and reduce the boundary gain by pulling the speaker away from walls (i.e. away from a "boundary of the room"). If we find we have to little boundary gain, we can increase the boundary gain by moving the speakers closer to a wall or even a corner. Each boundary we get closer to (be it the front wall or side wall or even the floor) will increase the boundary gain that causes the naturally large mountain you see in the center speaker.

Note, I have used two terms... which I believe are well defined in the FAQ post, however it is important to point out that Room Gain and Boundary Gain are not the same thing. They do both however interact with your speakers and the low end response that we see. This in turn will affect the calculations that ARC is doing when it trys to calculate your Room Gain for you. So it is important to understand the interactions created by both affects and to try place your speakers appropriatly.
Edited by Tigger! - 9/28/12 at 7:58am
post #12396 of 16453
Gotcha. Makes sense to me. So this is a pretty distinctive difference between audyssey and ARC then? To my understanding audyssey is in search of a perfect flat on the low end, to mimic the perfect anechoic response, treating all room effects as distortion to be compensated for. Whereas ARC respects some natural effects of the room as a positive, preserving the essence of the room gain, while smoothing out the peaks and valleys. That sound right?
post #12397 of 16453
Quote:
Originally Posted by bd2003 View Post

Gotcha. Makes sense to me. So this is a pretty distinctive difference between audyssey and ARC then? To my understanding audyssey is in search of a perfect flat on the low end, to mimic the perfect anechoic response, treating all room effects as distortion to be compensated for. Whereas ARC respects some natural effects of the room as a positive, preserving the essence of the room gain, while smoothing out the peaks and valleys. That sound right?

I can't speak for Audyssey as I've not used it before and have done limited research on it. However I would think/hope they also allow for some natural Room Gain... Flat has been known for sometime to be less than ideal. A speaker performing flat in an anechoic chamber maybe good as it will clearly not behave that way in a real room. But room correction should not aim for the same flat response that one gets in an anechoic chamber.

Your thoughts on ARC howver are pretty much spot on. This is an area that Anthem has a lot of experience and it clearly shows. wink.gif
post #12398 of 16453
Just redid my measurements with the foam port plugs installed - huge difference:

Before:

surrounds.png

targets.png

After:

new_targets.jpg

Right front is still a little off - but not much I can do about it. Big jump in room gain too I noticed....
post #12399 of 16453
What up guys? Haven't posted in while mainly because everything has been great and enjoying my MRX. That is until earlier this year in March. I finally decided to get me a laptop (an HP running windows 7) with some of my bonus money and it's been a headache ever since.

I simply cannot get this thing to play nice with my MRX and ARC! mad.gif I've tried everything I know to do and learned from this thread and nothing seems to work reliably. I've only had 2 sucessful ARC uploads over the last several months I've desired to even mess with it. I have the latest Keyspan driver, turned off all power saving options, turned off all firewalls, disconnected from my Wi-Fi network and played with the all settings on the Keyspan until I'm blue in the face. eek.gif I also tried every Com Port 1-6 and still nothing. I've been messing with it for 2 hours just this afternoon trying different combinations of Keyspan settings and com ports and it just ain't happin'. frown.gif I'm at a total loss on what to do now other than keep trying until it finally takes. rolleyes.gif

Oh, I almost forgot. I also tried my first ARC calibration just the other day and even had problems getting through it. I got through one speaker and it popped up an error about not detecting the mic or the tone, I can't remember. Several times It would stop in the middle of a tone sweep and give me some kind of error like "tone not detected" or something. I also had a tone sweep on one of my surrounds go into a nonstop loop. WTH? I never had that problem with either of my 2 old desktop PC's. Yes, I verified the mic file, so I'm not sure what's going on there. I unplugged the mic and plugged it back in and it detected it fine. I finally got the whole ARC process to work.

It seems to me there has to be some other pragram or software that is interfering with the com ports or something. I have no idea what it would be or how to go about finding this out, other than uninstalling stuff in the control panel until it works, but I don't want to do that. I could just haul out one of my old desktops, the one with it's own dedicated serial port upload it that way, but one of the main reasons I bought the laptop was so I don't have to haul desktops and a montior out to do this stuff anymore!

Please! Anyone, Tigger, Jayray, Bob P. I need help. I'm at the end of my rope and ready to throw this stupid laptop and Keyspan adaptor through the wall! mad.gifconfused.gif

-Glen
post #12400 of 16453
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonyrocks View Post

What up guys? Haven't posted in while mainly because everything has been great and enjoying my MRX. That is until earlier this year in March. I finally decided to get me a laptop (an HP running windows 7) with some of my bonus money and it's been a headache ever since.
I simply cannot get this thing to play nice with my MRX and ARC! mad.gif I've tried everything I know to do and learned from this thread and nothing seems to work reliably. I've only had 2 sucessful ARC uploads over the last several months I've desired to even mess with it. I have the latest Keyspan driver, turned off all power saving options, turned off all firewalls, disconnected from my Wi-Fi network and played with the all settings on the Keyspan until I'm blue in the face. eek.gif I also tried every Com Port 1-6 and still nothing. I've been messing with it for 2 hours just this afternoon trying different combinations of Keyspan settings and com ports and it just ain't happin'. frown.gif I'm at a total loss on what to do now other than keep trying until it finally takes. rolleyes.gif
Oh, I almost forgot. I also tried my first ARC calibration just the other day and even had problems getting through it. I got through one speaker and it popped up an error about not detecting the mic or the tone, I can't remember. Several times It would stop in the middle of a tone sweep and give me some kind of error like "tone not detected" or something. I also had a tone sweep on one of my surrounds go into a nonstop loop. WTH? I never had that problem with either of my 2 old desktop PC's. Yes, I verified the mic file, so I'm not sure what's going on there. I unplugged the mic and plugged it back in and it detected it fine. I finally got the whole ARC process to work.
It seems to me there has to be some other pragram or software that is interfering with the com ports or something. I have no idea what it would be or how to go about finding this out, other than uninstalling stuff in the control panel until it works, but I don't want to do that. I could just haul out one of my old desktops, the one with it's own dedicated serial port upload it that way, but one of the main reasons I bought the laptop was so I don't have to haul desktops and a montior out to do this stuff anymore!
Please! Anyone, Tigger, Jayray, Bob P. I need help. I'm at the end of my rope and ready to throw this stupid laptop and Keyspan adaptor through the wall! mad.gifconfused.gif
-Glen

My win 7 laptop works with firmware but not ARC so I use my toshiba vista laptop and no problems. Both work with my D2v pre/pro, go figure.
John
post #12401 of 16453
I use my Windows 7 (64 bit) laptop for ARC - no problems here. ???
post #12402 of 16453
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonyrocks View Post

What up guys? Haven't posted in while mainly because everything has been great and enjoying my MRX. That is until earlier this year in March. I finally decided to get me a laptop (an HP running windows 7) with some of my bonus money and it's been a headache ever since.
I simply cannot get this thing to play nice with my MRX and ARC! mad.gif I've tried everything I know to do and learned from this thread and nothing seems to work reliably. I've only had 2 sucessful ARC uploads over the last several months I've desired to even mess with it.

Just to double check - you have the latest version of ARC and the keyspan drivers?

You can get the latest drivers here(Assuming you have the keyspan USA-19hs):

http://www.tripplite.com/en/products/model.cfm?txtModelID=3914

Works fine on my windows 7 work PC. Make sure to download the "Windows 7/8." I actually didn't touch any of the preferences. The default worked for me out of the box. When in doubt - sadly do a clean install. If you can do something with the minimal HP bloatware installed as possible.
post #12403 of 16453
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonyrocks View Post

What up guys? Haven't posted in while mainly because everything has been great and enjoying my MRX. That is until earlier this year in March. I finally decided to get me a laptop (an HP running windows 7) with some of my bonus money and it's been a headache ever since.
I simply cannot get this thing to play nice with my MRX and ARC! mad.gif I've tried everything I know to do and learned from this thread and nothing seems to work reliably. I've only had 2 sucessful ARC uploads over the last several months I've desired to even mess with it. I have the latest Keyspan driver, turned off all power saving options, turned off all firewalls, disconnected from my Wi-Fi network and played with the all settings on the Keyspan until I'm blue in the face. eek.gif I also tried every Com Port 1-6 and still nothing. I've been messing with it for 2 hours just this afternoon trying different combinations of Keyspan settings and com ports and it just ain't happin'. frown.gif I'm at a total loss on what to do now other than keep trying until it finally takes. rolleyes.gif
Oh, I almost forgot. I also tried my first ARC calibration just the other day and even had problems getting through it. I got through one speaker and it popped up an error about not detecting the mic or the tone, I can't remember. Several times It would stop in the middle of a tone sweep and give me some kind of error like "tone not detected" or something. I also had a tone sweep on one of my surrounds go into a nonstop loop. WTH? I never had that problem with either of my 2 old desktop PC's. Yes, I verified the mic file, so I'm not sure what's going on there. I unplugged the mic and plugged it back in and it detected it fine. I finally got the whole ARC process to work.
It seems to me there has to be some other pragram or software that is interfering with the com ports or something. I have no idea what it would be or how to go about finding this out, other than uninstalling stuff in the control panel until it works, but I don't want to do that. I could just haul out one of my old desktops, the one with it's own dedicated serial port upload it that way, but one of the main reasons I bought the laptop was so I don't have to haul desktops and a montior out to do this stuff anymore!
Please! Anyone, Tigger, Jayray, Bob P. I need help. I'm at the end of my rope and ready to throw this stupid laptop and Keyspan adaptor through the wall! mad.gifconfused.gif
-Glen

This may seem too obvious, but are you using the right USB port? I've had problems when not using the primary port.
post #12404 of 16453
Well, it finally uploaded not long after I posted my cry for help. I think it was probably a fluke though and it was showing me some mercy. tongue.gif I went and tried the other USB ports and it worked on the second port on the left side of the laptop. The reason I think it was a fluke is because I've tried all the ports before with the same unreliable results. confused.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by jayray View Post

My win 7 laptop works with firmware but not ARC so I use my toshiba vista laptop and no problems. Both work with my D2v pre/pro, go figure.
John
Yeah John, mine works perfect for firmware updates too, but when it comes to ARC it no likey. Go figure indeed! mad.gif
I'm starting to think one of my cables is bad, but then why would the firmware upload work fine?

Quote:
Originally Posted by diablo676 View Post

I use my Windows 7 (64 bit) laptop for ARC - no problems here. ???
Yep, that's what my laptop has, so why doesn't mine work everytime? I don't get it. confused.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodOmens View Post

Just to double check - you have the latest version of ARC and the keyspan drivers?
You can get the latest drivers here(Assuming you have the keyspan USA-19hs):
http://www.tripplite.com/en/products/model.cfm?txtModelID=3914
Works fine on my windows 7 work PC. Make sure to download the "Windows 7/8." I actually didn't touch any of the preferences. The default worked for me out of the box. When in doubt - sadly do a clean install. If you can do something with the minimal HP bloatware installed as possible.
Yeah man, I have the latest everything. I even unistalled the Keyspan drivers and downloaded again just to make sure all was good. I would start going through all the HP installed stuff, but I just don't know for sure what is necessary and whats not.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dacaesar View Post

This may seem too obvious, but are you using the right USB port? I've had problems when not using the primary port.
See my main reply above. I have 3 USB ports. Two on the left side and one on the right side. If I have a primary, I'm not sure which one it is. I thought they were all the same.


-Glen
post #12405 of 16453
I just purchased an Anthem MRX -500 from my local dealer and he upated the firmware for me. I had trouble running arc through my windows 7 laptop and called Anthem tech support. I had to go into the speaker icon and make sure the laptop mic was disabled and the default mic was the Anthem. After that I ran arc without issue....

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2
post #12406 of 16453
Have you tried an external (powered) USB hub? The output voltage might be dropping and you lose your connection. It may be why for some only the primary USB port works consistently. There isn't enough power to the other ones.
post #12407 of 16453
Quote:
Originally Posted by MitchPope View Post

Have you tried an external (powered) USB hub? The output voltage might be dropping and you lose your connection. It may be why for some only the primary USB port works consistently. There isn't enough power to the other ones.

I haven't made the leap yet to a music hub, but I was planning on picking up a 1 or 2 TB USB drive, thinking a powered drive would be the way to go. I would most likely hook it up on the network for the convenience of managing it through my network. If that proves too tricky for me, I will manage it by plugging it directly to my laptop for management and then plug directly to my Oppo for listening.

Long story short, I agree that a powered drive is probably the way to go.
post #12408 of 16453
Quote:
Originally Posted by paradigmfan View Post

I just purchased an Anthem MRX -500 from my local dealer and he upated the firmware for me. I had trouble running arc through my windows 7 laptop and called Anthem tech support. I had to go into the speaker icon and make sure the laptop mic was disabled and the default mic was the Anthem. After that I ran arc without issue....
Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2
Ah ha. I didn't even think about the internal mic interfering. I will give that a try the next I do an ARC run. cool.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by MitchPope View Post

Have you tried an external (powered) USB hub? The output voltage might be dropping and you lose your connection. It may be why for some only the primary USB port works consistently. There isn't enough power to the other ones.
Hmm. I never thought of my USB ports being underpowered. Why would this be and why have I never heard of people having this problem before? Would plugging the laptop in instead of running off the battery solve this? confused.gif


-Glen
post #12409 of 16453
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonyrocks View Post


Hmm. I never thought of my USB ports being underpowered. Why would this be and why have I never heard of people having this problem before? Would plugging the laptop in instead of running off the battery solve this? confused.gif
-Glen

USB 2 ports should supply upto 500 mA for devices and I'd be surprised if the microphone and Keyspan needed anywhere near as much as that.

Though it could be that your laptop's power plan cuts down on the supply when on battery, same as it dulls the display, so plugging it in may help. smile.gif
post #12410 of 16453
Quote:
Originally Posted by scirica View Post

I haven't made the leap yet to a music hub, but I was planning on picking up a 1 or 2 TB USB drive, thinking a powered drive would be the way to go. I would most likely hook it up on the network for the convenience of managing it through my network. If that proves too tricky for me, I will manage it by plugging it directly to my laptop for management and then plug directly to my Oppo for listening.
Long story short, I agree that a powered drive is probably the way to go.

Sorry - by USB hub I meant like a 4-port extender, that has an adapter that plugs into the wall to provide power for the device.
I recommend this because I had a similar problem running SubEQ with an AS-EQ1 dropping the connection, it would recognize it, but then die once it actually has to start sending data back and forth. After trying different ports and cables, the powered USB hub always seems to do the trick.
post #12411 of 16453
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonyrocks View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by paradigmfan View Post

I just purchased an Anthem MRX -500 from my local dealer and he upated the firmware for me. I had trouble running arc through my windows 7 laptop and called Anthem tech support. I had to go into the speaker icon and make sure the laptop mic was disabled and the default mic was the Anthem. After that I ran arc without issue....
Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2
Ah ha. I didn't even think about the internal mic interfering. I will give that a try the next I do an ARC run. cool.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by MitchPope View Post

Have you tried an external (powered) USB hub? The output voltage might be dropping and you lose your connection. It may be why for some only the primary USB port works consistently. There isn't enough power to the other ones.
Hmm. I never thought of my USB ports being underpowered. Why would this be and why have I never heard of people having this problem before? Would plugging the laptop in instead of running off the battery solve this? confused.gif


-Glen
if you need, I have the email saved with the "how to" steps from Anthem, be more than happy to send it along.....let me know..

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2
post #12412 of 16453
I finally sent my Anthem MRX 500 to Anthem Spain for repair because of the little noise it made while it was on, since other members with the Anthem tell me that their unit is silent, I thoght it wasnt normal so I talked with the Anthem technician, fist he made me try with diferent plugs in my house, then I disconected everything from the receiver to make sure the noise wasnt produced by some other part of my equipment, but the noise persisted, so he told me to send it to take a look, and if needed he will sell me a new unit, really hope to get my Anthem back as soon as posible, I need the amazing sound it produces.

Greetings.
post #12413 of 16453
Quote:
Originally Posted by NeogeoG View Post

I finally sent my Anthem MRX 500 to Anthem Spain for repair because of the little noise it made while it was on, since other members with the Anthem tell me that their unit is silent, I thoght it wasnt normal so I talked with the Anthem technician, fist he made me try with diferent plugs in my house, then I disconected everything from the receiver to make sure the noise wasnt produced by some other part of my equipment, but the noise persisted, so he told me to send it to take a look, and if needed he will sell me a new unit, really hope to get my Anthem back as soon as posible, I need the amazing sound it produces.

Greetings.

Let me know how you make out. I know Anthem will do what they have to do. I was told they stand by their product 100%.....

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2
post #12414 of 16453
Quote:
Originally Posted by paradigmfan View Post

Let me know how you make out. I know Anthem will do what they have to do. I was told they stand by their product 100%.....
Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

Thanks, I will of course keep you all posted on how things turn out, looks like they are very profesional, hope I can enjoy my Anthem soon.
post #12415 of 16453
Quote:
Originally Posted by diablo676 View Post

USB 2 ports should supply upto 500 mA for devices and I'd be surprised if the microphone and Keyspan needed anywhere near as much as that.
Though it could be that your laptop's power plan cuts down on the supply when on battery, same as it dulls the display, so plugging it in may help. smile.gif
Cool. I'm goin to look into the advanced power plan options. I think I've seen something in there before about USB stuff. wink.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by MitchPope View Post

Sorry - by USB hub I meant like a 4-port extender, that has an adapter that plugs into the wall to provide power for the device.
I recommend this because I had a similar problem running SubEQ with an AS-EQ1 dropping the connection, it would recognize it, but then die once it actually has to start sending data back and forth. After trying different ports and cables, the powered USB hub always seems to do the trick.
Thanks. I may resort to this if indeed this is my problem. I don't see why anybody should need to though and why this is not a more wide spread problem. The dang thing should just work like it's supposed to! LOL
Quote:
Originally Posted by paradigmfan View Post

if you need, I have the email saved with the "how to" steps from Anthem, be more than happy to send it along.....let me know..
Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2
PM'd. smile.gif


-Glen
Edited by Sonyrocks - 10/2/12 at 5:11am
post #12416 of 16453
I'm posting for a friend who just got a MRX 300 and is having a problem getting video from a bell 6400 box. Connected via HDMI and we are getting audio but no video. Anthem is saying the 6400 is not HDCP compliant and bell is saying it is. Anybody get this to work?
post #12417 of 16453
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrike645 View Post

I'm posting for a friend who just got a MRX 300 and is having a problem getting video from a bell 6400 box. Connected via HDMI and we are getting audio but no video. Anthem is saying the 6400 is not HDCP compliant and bell is saying it is. Anybody get this to work?

I do not have a Bell 6400... but it is interesting that so many receivers have problems with Satelite Dish Tuners...

If you are talking to Anthem Support, I imagine they have already made the following suggestions but you could try:

1) Set the dish box (if possible) to a fixed output resolution, instead of "Auto".
2) Set the source for the Bell on your MRX to match the resolution of the Bell.

Most likely the highest resolution of the Bell is 1080i, so set the MRX to match that. Of course I'm assuming your TV is 1080p. If your TV is only 720p, make sure you set both the Bell and the MRX to be 720p. Basically we are trying to remove any unncessary communication/handshaking between the Bell and your TV/MRX receiver.

Remember that HDMI is an end to end communication, so even with the MRX in the middle complications can occure from Bell to TV. If you can set the TV Source to be fixed at the same resolution, that is even better (though I don't think many TV's allow you to do this).

Also, make sure your HDMI cables are all solidly connected to the Bell, the MRX and the TV and that there is no strain on any of them (vertically, horizontaly, twisting, etc.).

Lastly, for troubleshooting, make sure you disconnect all other HDMI cables from the Bell, MRX and TV so that you only have one HDMI path to troubleshoot. Believe it or not, another HDMI device connected to one of the pieces of equipment that is not even "on" could be part of the problem somehow... HDMI is so flacky! mad.gif
post #12418 of 16453
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrike645 View Post

I'm posting for a friend who just got a MRX 300 and is having a problem getting video from a bell 6400 box. Connected via HDMI and we are getting audio but no video. Anthem is saying the 6400 is not HDCP compliant and bell is saying it is. Anybody get this to work?

Also, I assume you have the latest firmware on your Bell, the MRX and the TV?

There is very little on the web about the Bell 6400, looks like this thing just started to hit shelves? If it is that new, you may be a de facto beta tester for Bell tongue.gif
post #12419 of 16453
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigger! View Post

Also, I assume you have the latest firmware on your Bell, the MRX and the TV?
There is very little on the web about the Bell 6400, looks like this thing just started to hit shelves? If it is that new, you may be a de facto beta tester for Bell tongue.gif

MRX has the latest for sure, not sure about the bell box. Don't think it was that new.

The bell box is the only HDMI source.
post #12420 of 16453
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrike645 View Post

MRX has the latest for sure, not sure about the bell box. Don't think it was that new.
The bell box is the only HDMI source.

Use Component and the problem will be GONE
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