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Anthem MRX Receivers - 300, 500, 700 Owners Thread & Tweaking Guide - Page 448

post #13411 of 14612
There have been a lot of posts lately about the MRX's not sounding good. When I first received mine, I too was in that camp. However, there is plenty of information in this thread to help get it sounding it's best. There have been some members here providing steadfast help from the very beginning of the thread, JayRay and Tigger come to mind and there are others. Thanks to them for all the great advice!

I picked up a 300 a little over a year ago. I'm using it as a prepro. Once a year my dealer has a 20% off sale, so a 300 for $800 is a real value. I suppose there are those who will pay $5000 more to get the extra 10% improvement. But the MRX's are good sounding. Here's a few general tips that I found invaluable.

1. Use ARC. I could never get mine to sound good without it.
2. Take care when measuring the room. Pay particular attention to mike height. Try to get it ear level. Too high or too low will result in sound that is either too bright or too muddy. Do it multiple times if you have to.
3. Don't change ARC's settings, even if you don't agree with the crossovers it chooses. It accounts for nulls in the room, I think, that we can't anticipate.
4. There are a lot of bass junkies in this forum, not that there's anything wrong with that. But, I remove the "hump" that ARC adds and listen to a perfectly flat frequency. I believe that mid bass hump obscures some of the mids. Of course, that hump is helpful if you have very small speakers, to add some power to the sound. This one is very subjective. I used to play guitar in a band quite a few years ago and I can't stand overly bassy sound. I also want to hear the music/movie as it was intended to be heard without putting my subjectivity into it. Play with it a bit. It's easy to do after the measurements because you can simply change that setting and recalculate within the ARC software. I know this partially contradicts #3, but this one setting is worth playing with a bit.
post #13412 of 14612
Great post Crescent! I liked the sound of mine right out of the box, but we are in the middle of a move and I will soon have a chance to set it up properly in the new place. I agree 110% on the bass. I hate overtly unnecessary booming and also want accurate sound reproduction more than anything, even what I "think" it should be. I'm glad to know that I can come here when I am in the process of getting it in place for technical resolve.
post #13413 of 14612
looked on the first page but seen nothing about it, I put up some new panels and re ran arc, got a bit better response on some speakers by a tiny bit. But when i checked the speaker distance it said like 11-12ft when my speakers are actually 7-8 ft. So i adjusted this, but curious as to why it thought they were so far away? echo? i take it i should adjust to to what they actually are.
post #13414 of 14612
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hostility View Post

looked on the first page but seen nothing about it, I put up some new panels and re ran arc, got a bit better response on some speakers by a tiny bit. But when i checked the speaker distance it said like 11-12ft when my speakers are actually 7-8 ft. So i adjusted this, but curious as to why it thought they were so far away? echo? i take it i should adjust to to what they actually are.

You need to set the speaker distance manually. No need to re-run arc, just make the changes in the Anthem menu.
post #13415 of 14612
Quote:
Originally Posted by scirica View Post

You need to set the speaker distance manually. No need to re-run arc, just make the changes in the Anthem menu.

thanks, figured as much, just wasent sure if it would mess up my ARC or not. But the distance is just for time delay correct? Im just thinking if i did it my last re run of arc a week ago, i dont think i even checked them. So should sound even better now.
post #13416 of 14612
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmpavs View Post

Great post Crescent! I liked the sound of mine right out of the box, but we are in the middle of a move and I will soon have a chance to set it up properly in the new place. I agree 110% on the bass. I hate overtly unnecessary booming and also want accurate sound reproduction more than anything, even what I "think" it should be. I'm glad to know that I can come here when I am in the process of getting it in place for technical resolve.

Thanks. I appreciate that.
post #13417 of 14612
new svs sb ultra 13
how to lift my dip in my sub?
I've moved it from left to right and not much change during quick measure?
should i use flat or auto?



post #13418 of 14612
Quote:
Originally Posted by kosmo7479 View Post

new svs sb ultra 13
how to lift my dip in my sub?
I've moved it from left to right and not much change during quick measure?
should i use flat or auto?




Are you referring to the slight dip between 60-80Hz in the green line of less than 1db? Or are you referring to the dip at 90Hz in the measured line?

You have the scale on your graph zoomed in a lot, what is happening to the rest of the graph as the frequency gets higher? Does it climb? Do you have any crossover or low pass filters engaged? What are the controls on your sub and what are they set at?
post #13419 of 14612
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hostility View Post

thanks, figured as much, just wasent sure if it would mess up my ARC or not. But the distance is just for time delay correct? Im just thinking if i did it my last re run of arc a week ago, i dont think i even checked them. So should sound even better now.

As stated, you can set the distances before or after doing your ARC measurements. ARC does not change the measurements, these must be set manually by you.

My memory of the default out of the box settings is fuzzy at this point... but the numbers you suggested sound like they are the defaults, so I'm guessing you never set your speaker distances at all.

Again, if you didn't set them yourself... nothing else will have set them for you, including ARC wink.gif

Hope that's helpful smile.gif
post #13420 of 14612
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crescent View Post

There have been a lot of posts lately about the MRX's not sounding good. When I first received mine, I too was in that camp. However, there is plenty of information in this thread to help get it sounding it's best. There have been some members here providing steadfast help from the very beginning of the thread, JayRay and Tigger come to mind and there are others. Thanks to them for all the great advice!

I picked up a 300 a little over a year ago. I'm using it as a prepro. Once a year my dealer has a 20% off sale, so a 300 for $800 is a real value. I suppose there are those who will pay $5000 more to get the extra 10% improvement. But the MRX's are good sounding. Here's a few general tips that I found invaluable.

1. Use ARC. I could never get mine to sound good without it.
2. Take care when measuring the room. Pay particular attention to mike height. Try to get it ear level. Too high or too low will result in sound that is either too bright or too muddy. Do it multiple times if you have to.
3. Don't change ARC's settings, even if you don't agree with the crossovers it chooses. It accounts for nulls in the room, I think, that we can't anticipate.
4. There are a lot of bass junkies in this forum, not that there's anything wrong with that. But, I remove the "hump" that ARC adds and listen to a perfectly flat frequency. I believe that mid bass hump obscures some of the mids. Of course, that hump is helpful if you have very small speakers, to add some power to the sound. This one is very subjective. I used to play guitar in a band quite a few years ago and I can't stand overly bassy sound. I also want to hear the music/movie as it was intended to be heard without putting my subjectivity into it. Play with it a bit. It's easy to do after the measurements because you can simply change that setting and recalculate within the ARC software. I know this partially contradicts #3, but this one setting is worth playing with a bit.

Thanks for the kind words!

I've just tried to give back a little when I could as I've gotten plenty of help myself over the years! Lately I've been a bit busy... I've been out job hunting after the last company I worked for closed its doors in a rather sudden and surprising nature! Fortunately, I just started a new job this past week and I suspect I will be quite overwhelmed for the next few weeks as I learn and settle in to my new role! Needless to say, I will continue to try and help out when I can but I may be a bit scattered for a while. biggrin.gif

I hope that a few of the users who've been helped in the past, have been, and will be able to, step up and help out the latest round of New Owners with their questions and entry into the world of Anthem and ARC. If only everyone helps out for a few months after they posted up their first charts, the cycle of help should live on as long as our MRX's do! smile.gif

Jayray (an MRX and Anthem Signature owner) and a number of other Anthem Signature owners were kind enough to help out the early MRX owners, myself included, even though some of them didn't even own an MRX! That really says a lot about the character of the people who buy Anthem's technology and I'm glad I've been able to give a little help back to a few new owners that joined the Anthem family after me.
post #13421 of 14612
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hostility View Post

thanks, figured as much, just wasent sure if it would mess up my ARC or not. But the distance is just for time delay correct? Im just thinking if i did it my last re run of arc a week ago, i dont think i even checked them. So should sound even better now.

As already stated by others, ARC does NOT set the speaker distances, you have to set them manually, either before or after ARC, it makes no difference as ARC only tests one speaker at a time, so there is no interaction. With your main speakers simply measure the distance to the MLP and enter the values, but for the sub you may find that varying the actual distance can result in a better splice between mains and sub (smoother transition), also subs often introduce delays due to internal EQ circuitry and the action of the internal amp.
If you have the facility to send tone sweeps through your system, then fine tuning the sub distance is easier, just adjust until the sweep level sounds constant through the crossover region. That will ensure that mains and sub are in phase and not cancelling each other out.
Regards, Mike.
post #13422 of 14612
By the way I did just get the verification from Anthem that the Zone 2 inputs are unprocessed analog. So this is good news for anyone wondering about using two channel audio with external DAC. Yay me.
post #13423 of 14612
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmpavs View Post

By the way I did just get the verification from Anthem that the Zone 2 inputs are unprocessed analog. So this is good news for anyone wondering about using two channel audio with external DAC. Yay me.

So how would this work? Maybe I'm not understanding how configurable "zone 2" is. Can you set it to output to your main speakers or are you connecting a second set of mains in the zone 2 speaker terminals. I would be interested in playing around with these "analog" inputs for a phono preamp assuming I can continue using my mains without adding an external speaker switch.
post #13424 of 14612
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV_mike View Post

If you want a "pure path" from your DAC to the speakers, no ARC obviously, you can use an analogue input and direct it to Zone 2. That configuration stays analogue all the way, but you would need to move connections for movies, etc, unless you have two setups.
Just a thought, Mike.

Quote:
Originally Posted by esh516 View Post

Well my DAC only comes into play when I listen to CDs..all other sources are HDMI.bypassing the DAC..so that may work..using zone two analog for CD/transport/DAC only..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian-HD View Post

That's my setup currently.

Analog all the way means including volume control? I didn't know MRX's zone2 has analog volume control.
post #13425 of 14612
Yay, Anthem and Axiom - been looking for someone who shares the same taste.
post #13426 of 14612
Quote:
Originally Posted by sp1dey View Post

So how would this work? Maybe I'm not understanding how configurable "zone 2" is. Can you set it to output to your main speakers or are you connecting a second set of mains in the zone 2 speaker terminals. I would be interested in playing around with these "analog" inputs for a phono preamp assuming I can continue using my mains without adding an external speaker switch.

I am interested in the same. I have a HTPC connected to a DAC. I tried connecting the analog out from the DAC into the zone 2, but didn't get any sound.
post #13427 of 14612



Sorry Tigger,
as for your questions:

Are you referring to the slight dip between 60-80Hz in the green line of less than 1db? Or are you referring to the dip at 90Hz in the measured line?

I mean the 20-30 range in green and red and the high arc in red at 30-45

You have the scale on your graph zoomed in a lot, what is happening to the rest of the graph as the frequency gets higher? Does it climb? Do you have any crossover or low pass filters engaged?What are the controls on your sub and what are they set at?

all setting come default being disabled


Regards,
post #13428 of 14612
Quote:
Originally Posted by kosmo7479 View Post




Sorry Tigger,
as for your questions:

Are you referring to the slight dip between 60-80Hz in the green line of less than 1db? Or are you referring to the dip at 90Hz in the measured line?

I mean the 20-30 range in green and red and the high arc in red at 30-45

You have the scale on your graph zoomed in a lot, what is happening to the rest of the graph as the frequency gets higher? Does it climb? Do you have any crossover or low pass filters engaged?What are the controls on your sub and what are they set at?

all setting come default being disabled


Regards,

As for the 20-30Hz range, it doesn't appear your sub goes that low. It does look like you set your sub to "Flat" under the advanced options of ARC. If this is the case, I would not advise that setting. As your sub doesn't go that low, you are forcing it where it doesn't want to go.
post #13429 of 14612
Quote:
Originally Posted by dacaesar View Post

I am interested in the same. I have a HTPC connected to a DAC. I tried connecting the analog out from the DAC into the zone 2, but didn't get any sound.

I dont know why that would be. I'm also not sure of the volume control. Anthem is very short in their replies so its tough to say when they offer no advice really but I understand they probably have loads of emails to respond to. I may just ask the dealer I buy from to inquire more about it.
post #13430 of 14612
Quote:
Originally Posted by kosmo7479 View Post

new svs sb ultra 13
how to lift my dip in my sub?
I've moved it from left to right and not much change during quick measure?
should i use flat or auto?

If you look at the tech specs on the SVS website, it has a similar rolloff from 20-30 Hz as is in your ARC measurement, but check that your sub's low-pass filter is disabled.
post #13431 of 14612
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmpavs View Post

I dont know why that would be. I'm also not sure of the volume control. Anthem is very short in their replies so its tough to say when they offer no advice really but I understand they probably have loads of emails to respond to. I may just ask the dealer I buy from to inquire more about it.

You need to connect your DAC to one of the analogue two channel inputs, then configure a Zone2 output, either using two of the internal MRX amps, (AUX) or connecting two Zone2 amps to the zone2 outputs
Regards, Mike.
post #13432 of 14612
Quote:
Originally Posted by sp1dey View Post

So how would this work? Maybe I'm not understanding how configurable "zone 2" is. Can you set it to output to your main speakers or are you connecting a second set of mains in the zone 2 speaker terminals. I would be interested in playing around with these "analog" inputs for a phono preamp assuming I can continue using my mains without adding an external speaker switch.

You need a separate set of speakers or unplug your fronts from the front channel terminals and plug them into the AUX terminals. Personally if you are that worried about the quality of the sound that you are using an external DAC and foregoing ARC then I would not be using a speaker switch.
post #13433 of 14612
Considering an MRX300/500 to replace a legacy Denon. I have no dedicated subwoofer but use Deftech fronts with built in Subs. They are 4ohm, 19hz-30khz, 91db with a volume control ONLY. The internal crossover is set by Deftech to ensure "perfect blending"....

The question I have that has been asked by others (but not yet answered) in the 100 plus pages i have covered is how much will this limit ARC's capability to provide me with the optimum set up. I currently do not use the Audyssey as I am using 7.1 analog inputs fed by an Oppo to access the HD lossless audio formats.

Thanks for your inputs
post #13434 of 14612
I'm thinking about hooking up my turntable (in one room), to my 500 (living room). Using a quality RCA cable (it's about 25 ft) from the tt reciever, going to the analog in on the MRX. I figure I will just leave the cable in the back of the 500 and connect it to the other reciever when I need it. It will work, I'm just not sure how well, or if it's even worth the trouble.
post #13435 of 14612
Quote:
Originally Posted by Apgood View Post

You need a separate set of speakers or unplug your fronts from the front channel terminals and plug them into the AUX terminals. Personally if you are that worried about the quality of the sound that you are using an external DAC and foregoing ARC then I would not be using a speaker switch.

Thanks, just trying to confirm my suspicions of how zone two works on these avr's. I have no intention of using a speaker switch nor a DAC but an analog path for my phono stage would be welcomed assuming the zone two RCA's could be used effortlessly with my mains. That's not the case, but I assumed so, so no worries.

At some point when space provides, I'll set up a two channel system and move my turntable to it. For now, I only have space for one system and the flexibility an avr provides is worth the lack of an analog path.
post #13436 of 14612
Quote:
Originally Posted by kosmo7479 View Post

new svs sb ultra 13
how to lift my dip in my sub?
I've moved it from left to right and not much change during quick measure?
should i use flat or auto?


It was pointed out that your sub does roll off in similar fashion, according to the data on SVS' website. However, I would have expected some room gain in that region that would lift the natural output of the sub, unless your room is quite large. If moving it left to right didn't produce much change while doing a Quick Measure, I would try again and move it backward and/or forward too (unless of course this infringes on the WAF biggrin.gif).
post #13437 of 14612
Quote:
Originally Posted by bkeeler10 View Post

It was pointed out that your sub does roll off in similar fashion, according to the data on SVS' website. However, I would have expected some room gain in that region that would lift the natural output of the sub, unless your room is quite large. If moving it left to right didn't produce much change while doing a Quick Measure, I would try again and move it backward and/or forward too (unless of course this infringes on the WAF biggrin.gif).

I have the same sub, and I don't believe I have the same rolloff. I did need to move it around quite a bit before it exhibited a good curve.

http://postimage.org/image/qnlrpb233/
post #13438 of 14612
Guys.
What crossover MRX 700 will be send to LFE if all speakers are mark- full range .?
Do i have to play with crossover at my Sub .?
Thank you
Pix
post #13439 of 14612
If full range a crossover won't be used. Full range means the speaker plays the entire range of the signal and the signal will not be sent to the sub because there won't a a crossover used. I'm not sure why you would want your speakers full range if you have a sub. You should let ARC set the response cut offs for each speaker and disable the crossover on your sub. If your sub doesn't have a crossover disable/bypass switch then you should turn the crossover up as high as it will go to get it out of the way.
post #13440 of 14612
Tigger
now returned to auto,I guess this is the best to be done?


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