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Anthem MRX Receivers - 300, 500, 700 Owners Thread & Tweaking Guide - Page 458

post #13711 of 16451
Quote:
Originally Posted by Legairre View Post

Ah OK you want it set to direct since that appears to either be your 120Hz setting or a crossover bypass. Looking at the literature for your sub it appears to be a crossover bypass so set it to direct.

what volume would you set it at then? leave it at default, 30 of 80?
post #13712 of 16451
Typically 25% of the max volume is a good place to start and try to get the receiver's sub channel level between -3 and +3. Your said your sub's volume range is 1 - 80 so 20 would be a good starting point, but there's no harm in starting at 28 like you have it and checking the receiver's sub channel level and see if it's between -3 and +3. it's higher than +3 lower the sub's volume and rerun ARC. If it's lower than -3 increase the sub's volume a bit and rerun ARC.
post #13713 of 16451
Quote:
Originally Posted by Legairre View Post

Typically 25% of the max volume is a good place to start and try to get the receiver's sub channel level between -3 and +3. Your said your sub's volume range is 1 - 80 so 20 would be a good starting point, but there's no harm in starting at 28 like you have it and checking the receiver's sub channel level and see if it's between -3 and +3. it's higher than +3 lower the sub's volume and rerun ARC. If it's lower than -3 increase the sub's volume a bit and rerun ARC.

was set at 28 i got;

Movie Sub: -6 dB
Music Sub: -6 dB

so maybe move it up the volume to 30, 31, 32, 33, and so on, to get it some where around -3 to +3?
post #13714 of 16451
Yup move it up just like you said a little at a time until it's between -3 and +3. Also can you post the channel levels for all your speakers? Also ARC set your sub to 120Hz(nice)cool.gif
post #13715 of 16451
Quote:
Originally Posted by Legairre View Post

Yup move it up just like you said a little at a time until it's between -3 and +3. Also can you post the channel levels for all your speakers? Also ARC set your sub to 120Hz(nice)cool.gif

i did post the channel levels on my original post, but here they are anyways;


Dolby Volume: Off
Dolby Volume Cal Offset: 0 dB
Noise Seq: Off
Front Left; 0 dB
Center: -1 dB
Front Right: +1 dB
Movie/Music: -6 dB
post #13716 of 16451
Sorry about that I missed it. Other than the sub the levels look good .
post #13717 of 16451
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmacari View Post

Okay, hopefully this will give more insight into my previously posted ARC measurements-

Off the MRX-500-
Front L: +3
Front R: +2
Center: +1
Surr L: -1
Surr R: -2
Movie Sub: -1
Music Sub: -1








Hi Joe your graphs look really good. ARC set your sub to 120Hz which is great and your speaker levels are really good too. Your sub is dropping off at 25Hz.. what model Martin Logan Dynamo is it: 1500x, 1000w, 700w, 500 or 300? So we can check the specs and tell if it's the subs natural roll off.

BTW: If you have the 1000w (rolls off at 22Hz) or the 700w(rolls off at 24Hz) then it looks like your sub is performing as it should because your graph rolls off around 22-25Hz range.
Edited by Legairre - 2/20/13 at 6:46pm
post #13718 of 16451
Quote:
BTW: If you have the 1000w (rolls off at 22Hz) or the 700w(rolls off at 24Hz) then it looks like your sub is performing as it should because your graph rolls off around 22-25Hz range.

Its the original Dynamo -circa 2004 (I got it in 2006)..
http://www.martinlogan.com/products/dynamo

Freq Resp-I think the specs look right from the above page (25-120Hz); When I asked ML Support about matching up a new ML sub (dual subs)-they told me the Dynamo 700 would be the same....

another question regarding running dual subs with MRX; I would assume just match the output of the two with an SPL, then rerun ARC?? I've been thinking about putting another sub in the loop (I have a 10" Phase Technology 10 sub that's not in use)-my living/HT room is 12X16X8 (carpets, drapes, mini-blinds)...As I stated previously, the MRX sounds fantastic right now, but the itch is there, to get that last bit of performance (?)...any thoughts??
post #13719 of 16451
It looks like your sub is performing as it should be then. As for the dual subs if they are stacked and identical the second sub will add about 6dB while if separated the second one will add about 3dB. If stacked level match each one separately with the RS SPL meter(use the correction values) to about 69dB and when they are calibrated together by ARC they will be at 75dB. If separated calibrate each one separately to about 72dB and when ARC is done they should be 75dB together.

Adding a second sub that is not identical is kind of hit or miss. Sometimes it works out and sometimes it doesn't unless the two subs have specs that are pretty much the same. One sub may be straining at the lower frequencies while the other is barely breaking a sweat. The one that is straining can really mess up your sound.
post #13720 of 16451
Quote:
Adding a second sub that is not identical is kind of hit or miss. Sometimes it works out and sometimes it doesn't unless the two subs have specs that are pretty much the same. One sub may be straining at the lower frequencies while the other is barely breaking a sweat.

Yes, I had a dual sub setup (opposite corners in the room) with my previous processor (no room EQ, just level controls)....the Phase Technology sub, although a nice unit, just didn't have the "oomph" of the Dynamo. The volume settings were quite different, but once I dialed them in separately, then level controlled them in the processor, it sounded pretty good. But as I said, the performance I'm getting now from the MRX is so nice, I am just going to leave things be. I have been listening to a lot of music (CD, streaming); this unit is just so much better than my expectations. I have owned a lot of nice, strictly music gear ( analog, vinyl, etc.) in the past, and the MRX is right there and beyond their performance....and BD, DIRECTV, video streaming is top notch also....very nice unit!
post #13721 of 16451
Just spent $30 for the Keyspan adapter....anyone know why on God's green earth they chose to use such an antiquated connection???
post #13722 of 16451
Quote:
Originally Posted by coresare View Post

Just spent $30 for the Keyspan adapter....anyone know why on God's green earth they chose to use such an antiquated connection???

Old, reliable, easy to program --Still used by many professional installers, and it can have longer cable lengths than USB.
post #13723 of 16451
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tank_PD View Post

Old, reliable, easy to program --Still used by many professional installers, and it can have longer cable lengths than USB.

Quote:
Originally Posted by coresare View Post

Just spent $30 for the Keyspan adapter....anyone know why on God's green earth they chose to use such an antiquated connection???

Well, I can tell you I've had nothing but problems using the Keyspan and my new HP Windows 7 laptop. It simply is not reliable at all at trying to upload my ARC files. I've tried everything recommended in this thread and manipulated the Keyspan settings till I'm blue in the face and it fails miserably almost every time. It usually takes about 2 hours of messing with crap and the thing finally decides to show me some mercy and lets it upload. But, the next time I go to try to upload an ARC file again using the same exact settings it will fail. So no changes in settings I've tried or trying different USB jacks helps. I'm better off dragging one of my 2 old desktop PC's out, the one with an actual direct serial connection. Guess what? It uploads everything flawlessly with no issues what so ever. The whole reason I bought the stupid laptop was so I can run ARC without having to drag the PC, monitor, and stuff downstairs. I'm 99% sure it's some pre-installed software on the laptop causing the issues, but have no idea what it is. I guess my next option is to contact Anthem and give them the error codes I keep getting on my failed uploads. But I'm not going to bother until I'm actually ready to try to make changes again. I have no need to right now since my current ARC config sounds great and I haven't moved anything in the room. I'm quite surprised more people don't complain about Windows 7 laptop problems. Surely I'm not the only one having issues. mad.gif

-Glen
post #13724 of 16451
I use a W7 laptop and the Keyspan without issue. The laptop had to be online to install the drivers. I set the baud rate on the MRX for the Keyspan to 115xxx (can't remember the exact speed) and you can also increase the baud rate of the Keyspan on your laptop in the Device Manager.

If that fails, have you tried swapping it to a different USB port on your laptop? Have you checked the Event Viewer in Windows?

Apologies if you've tried all of those..
post #13725 of 16451
Quote:
I'm quite surprised more people don't complain about Windows 7 laptop problems.

That is weird...I used a 12 year old Compaq laptop (with dock/serial port), Windows XP, and ARC was absolutely flawless/simple....so much for new tech...
post #13726 of 16451
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmacari View Post

That is weird...I used a 12 year old Compaq laptop (with dock/serial port), Windows XP, and ARC was absolutely flawless/simple....so much for new tech...

Mine wasn't quite that old but I use serial from a dock too. I have a dell Latitude D410 running XP and it works fine. I have an E4310 at home but no dock at the moment. I use that laptop for PBK since it is all USB.
post #13727 of 16451
Quote:
Originally Posted by schwegs99 View Post

Here you go!

3.1 setup.

Front Left: 0 dB
Center: -1 dM
Front Right: +1 dB
Movie Sub: -6dB
Music Sub: -6 dB

Bass Management:
Confurgation: Movie/Music
Front: Small 60 Hz
Center: Small 60 Hz



do my graphs look good (except for sub, which i will mess around a bit later with) to everyone?
post #13728 of 16451
I was setting up my MRX, was wondering what everyone set for their Listening Mode Presets?

For example, 5.1 DTS (None, Dolby VS Wide, Dolby VS Reference, Last Used)
post #13729 of 16451
My listening mode presets are:

2.0: Anthem logic Music
2.0 Dolby Digital Surround: PLIIx Movie
Multi Channel PCM: PLIIx Movie
5.1 Dolby Digital: PLIIx Movie
Dolby Digital Surround EX: None
5.1 DTS: Last Used.
DTS-ES: Same as DTS 5.1

Since I run a 7.1 setup I use PLIIx Movie to matrix 5.1 material to 7.1 and by setting my DTS 5.1 to Last Used all my DTS 5.1 material is also matrixed to 7.1. With these setting all my DD, TrueHD, DTS & DTS-HD Master Audio is matrixed to 7.1 with PLIIx Movie unless the material is already 7.1.

BTW, your charts look really. Like you said you just need to set the sub's bypass to Direct and then the filter at 40Hz will be removed and you should be all set..
post #13730 of 16451
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmacari View Post

Yes, I had a dual sub setup (opposite corners in the room) with my previous processor (no room EQ, just level controls)....the Phase Technology sub, although a nice unit, just didn't have the "oomph" of the Dynamo. The volume settings were quite different, but once I dialed them in separately, then level controlled them in the processor, it sounded pretty good. But as I said, the performance I'm getting now from the MRX is so nice, I am just going to leave things be. I have been listening to a lot of music (CD, streaming); this unit is just so much better than my expectations. I have owned a lot of nice, strictly music gear ( analog, vinyl, etc.) in the past, and the MRX is right there and beyond their performance....and BD, DIRECTV, video streaming is top notch also....very nice unit!
I couldn't agree more. The MRX is really nice. Mine is used as a pre/pro and sounds fantastic.
post #13731 of 16451
Quote:
Mine is used as a pre/pro and sounds fantastic.

smile.gif

Same here; Outlaw 7500 (5X200w)
post #13732 of 16451
Nice cool.gif the Outlaw 7500 is a great amp. I use a Rotel RMB-1095 (5x200w) with 4channels bi-amped to the front L/R and one channel to the center. Then I have two Rotel RB-1050 (2x80w) for my side and back surrounds.

The MRX is a nice addition the theater:

Edited by Legairre - 2/21/13 at 5:47pm
post #13733 of 16451
Quote:
I use a Rotel RMB-1095 (5x200w) with 4channels bi-amped to the front L/R and one channel to the center. Then I have two Rotel RB-1050 (2x80w) for my side and back surrounds.
Great looking setup (love that cabinet)
Always have had a warm spot in my heart for Rotel...I still have a RCD-1072 CD player and an RP-855 TT in my audio system; I used to have the Rotel RCD 855 CD player ( I also had it modded by a company out of Iowa or Illinois)-it was a great player in the beginning of the digital era

What are you using for Front/ Center speakers??
post #13734 of 16451
Quote:
Originally Posted by Legairre View Post

Nice cool.gif the Outlaw 7500 is a great amp. I use a Rotel RMB-1095 (5x200w) with 4channels bi-amped to the front L/R and one channel to the center. Then I have two Rotel RB-1050 (2x80w) for my side and back surrounds.

The MRX is a nice addition the theater:

Yes, indeed this looks awesome! I used to have a Rotel Receiver and when I went to Denon it was like going from separates to a budget receiver. I have the Emotiva UMC-200/UPA-500 setup now and aside from not being able to use Auto EQ, it sounds so much better than my previous Denon reciever 3312CI. Considering the MRX-300 as preamp with my UPA-500 to get the benefit of ARC.
post #13735 of 16451
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhuk View Post

I use a W7 laptop and the Keyspan without issue. The laptop had to be online to install the drivers. I set the baud rate on the MRX for the Keyspan to 115xxx (can't remember the exact speed) and you can also increase the baud rate of the Keyspan on your laptop in the Device Manager.

If that fails, have you tried swapping it to a different USB port on your laptop? Have you checked the Event Viewer in Windows?

Apologies if you've tried all of those..

Yeah, been there done that, but thanks. frown.gif

I've never used the Event Viewer before. Didn't really know about it. What exactly would I be looking for?

-G
post #13736 of 16451
Guys
I bought a new Sub ..
What do you think about my graphs
Thank you
Pixellmen
FL 0
C+ 2
FR -1
SR -1
SL-0
Sub movie +3
Sub music +4







post #13737 of 16451
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmacari View Post

Great looking setup (love that cabinet)
Always have had a warm spot in my heart for Rotel...I still have a RCD-1072 CD player and an RP-855 TT in my audio system; I used to have the Rotel RCD 855 CD player ( I also had it modded by a company out of Iowa or Illinois)-it was a great player in the beginning of the digital era

What are you using for Front/ Center speakers??
My fronts are Monitor Audio Sliver 10 and the center is a Monitor Audio Silver Center. I've actually been a bit disappointed with Rotel over the last several years. I really like there 10 series gear like your RCD-1072 and even the older gear. I just haven't been all that impressed with their new 15 series stuff. My pet peeve with their pre/pros is that in this day and age they still don't offer any room correction software in their pre/pros. That's why I bought the MRX. I really have no regrets the MRX is fantastic.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LVS View Post

Yes, indeed this looks awesome! I used to have a Rotel Receiver and when I went to Denon it was like going from separates to a budget receiver. I have the Emotiva UMC-200/UPA-500 setup now and aside from not being able to use Auto EQ, it sounds so much better than my previous Denon reciever 3312CI. Considering the MRX-300 as preamp with my UPA-500 to get the benefit of ARC.
I had a Denon AVR-3300 back in 2000-2002. The biggest mistake I made was selling it for Rotel's new low priced pre/pro (RSP-1066). I figured it's Rotel it must be great but it was the first Rotel product the was just lifeless. The Denon 3300 just blew it away. How do you like the Emo200? Also how come you can't use the Auto EQ in it?


BTW: Guys thanks for the kind words on the rack.
Legairre
post #13738 of 16451
I really like the UMC-200 aside from just a few annoyances that will likely be fixed with a firmware update, just as not remembering what Playback mode you set for a source between power cycles. Certainly nothing major.

As far as EmoQ EQ goes, it just turns the sound in to a lifeless and very thin sound, and when you run it once and then run it again, it will completely change the recommended crossover settings on your speakers. In addition after calibration your channel output levels will be off by as much as 3 db when using a SPL to measure manually. I got fed up with EmoQ and just run everything in Direct mode, but my room really needs equalization. Being fed up with it I went a purchased a Pioneer SC-61 with the D3 amps, and after listening to the UMC-200/UPA-500 combo I quickly took the Pioneer back and reinstalled the UMC-200. Sound is so much more open, airy, with better detail and bass. I was very surprised by the difference. I replaced a Denon 3312CI with the UMC-200 and remember at the time of the change that it was a nice improvement but didn't realize how much until I tried another receiver immediately after listening to the UMC-200. To be fair I tried the Pioneer with and without Equalization and compared to the UMC-200 found the sound rather lifeless, and closed in.

I am wondering whether it would be worth it to give the MRX-300 a shot either as a preamp or standalone for the room correction. The room is a dedicated theater room that I use obviously for movies but also for critical music listening.
post #13739 of 16451
Hi all,

My set up is mrx 300 with MCA 30 for my CM9 LCR. Sounds amazing for movies. Playback with my sonos unit does not sound so good. Specifically there is a major drop off in the bass from the sub. Interstingly when I play the sonos and have the L and r channel disconnected the sub pounds hard. Once they are back on....not much at all. The setting for the speakers are all small 60Hz. I have tried changing the listening mode from streo to Anthem Music, to PLIImusic but no help.

What should I do?
post #13740 of 16451
Quote:
Originally Posted by pixellman View Post

Guys
I bought a new Sub ..
What do you think about my graphs
Thank you
Pixellmen
FL 0
C+ 2
FR -1
SR -1
SL-0
Sub movie +3
Sub music +4








Your graphs look really good. ARC also set your sub to 120Hz and you have nice response down low, and your speaker levels look good too. What sub did you get it looks like it plays really low? It's also good that you set the ARC HPF to FLAT with a sub that plays low.cool.gif
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