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Anthem MRX Receivers - 300, 500, 700 Owners Thread & Tweaking Guide - Page 535

post #16021 of 16451
Quote:
Originally Posted by grasshoppers View Post

^^^^^^^You Nailed it!!!! IMHO no further "tweaking" is needed!
Are you serious? :-D
What about the other speakers? :-)
I should tell, that the speaker db is all 0. Don't know if that's good or bad?

I got the popping to, but on my right front and sometimes on all.
It's like your description, when switching sources, starting a movie etc.
Edited by grymok - 12/1/13 at 8:55am
post #16022 of 16451
Quote:
Originally Posted by grymok View Post

Are you serious? :-D
What about the other speakers? :-)
I should tell, that the speaker db is all 0. Don't know if that's good or bad?

I got the popping to, but on my right front and sometimes on all.
It's like your description, when switching sources, starting a movie etc.

The rest of your speaker graphs are good. not perfect, but ARC has corrected them.
Speaker db is fine. unfortunately, I Have never experienced any popping or static issues.
Don't know what to tell you there.
post #16023 of 16451
Quote:
Originally Posted by grymok View Post

Are you serious? :-D
What about the other speakers? :-)
I should tell, that the speaker db is all 0. Don't know if that's good or bad?

I got the popping to, but on my right front and sometimes on all.
It's like your description, when switching sources, starting a movie etc.

Can you share how you moved your sub to get the better results?
post #16024 of 16451
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharp10 View Post

Can you share how you moved your sub to get the better results?

Short version: I unplugged it, took a tight grip and got ready to move it, bit at a time(because it's unhandy and heavy) and wupti, it was in place wink.gif

Longer version:Actually there isn't much to tell here. I did try 3-4 locations from the start, which i got space for it to be. Placed the sub and ran audyssey(was with my older Denon 1912, at that time) and listened to the sub, where my main listening position is, on each of the locations.
2 of the locations was less 'handy/practical' than the other 2, which wasn't that good in the long run. But neither of those 2 locations, did sound good at the listening location. The bass was either bloated, or you couldn't hear the bass.
So ended up with 2 locations to pick from. 1 at my left speakers, right under my desk, and the other at my right speaker and my receiver placed on the sub(which isn't that good).
From here i did run ARC and got it reviewed(which is on page 533-534), ran some quick measurements and got those reviewed to.
Hard to describe, how to get the right 'spot' but i think i was only LUCKY. If either of the locations at my left or right speaker was good. I would just have picked the one, which looked best on the graphs smile.gif
post #16025 of 16451
I am hoping Nick@Anthem can clear up this question:

After running ARC, my Subwoofer cuttoff (in the Target window) says 80Hz. I have been told by users in the D2v thread that the cutoff frequency DOES NOT change the LPF for LFE, meaning that even though my cutoff frequency is 80Hz for the sub, the LFE channel will still play the full range of the LFE soundtrack. Correct?

Where it gets confusing is the varying input I am getting regarding how ARC handles the LFE content ABOVE the subwoofer cuttoff frequency. Some users are telling me that after 80Hz (my reported sub cutoff frequency), ARC let's the subwoofer play the LFE channel WITHOUT any filters applied (so after 80Hz the subwoofer frequency response will follow that of the uncorrected line, the red line). Others are telling me that even after 80Hz (my reported sub cutoff frequency), ARC still applies all calculated filters (so after 80Hz the subwoofer frequency response will follow that of the corrected line, the green line).

Any clarification on the matter?
post #16026 of 16451
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigCoolJesus View Post

I am hoping Nick@Anthem can clear up this question:

After running ARC, my Subwoofer cuttoff (in the Target window) says 80Hz. I have been told by users in the D2v thread that the cutoff frequency DOES NOT change the LPF for LFE, meaning that even though my cutoff frequency is 80Hz for the sub, the LFE channel will still play the full range of the LFE soundtrack. Correct?

Where it gets confusing is the varying input I am getting regarding how ARC handles the LFE content ABOVE the subwoofer cuttoff frequency. Some users are telling me that after 80Hz (my reported sub cutoff frequency), ARC let's the subwoofer play the LFE channel WITHOUT any filters applied (so after 80Hz the subwoofer frequency response will follow that of the uncorrected line, the red line). Others are telling me that even after 80Hz (my reported sub cutoff frequency), ARC still applies all calculated filters (so after 80Hz the subwoofer frequency response will follow that of the corrected line, the green line).

Any clarification on the matter?

I saw you sub graphs on the Rythmik thread. The slope is not very steep heading down to
120hz. I am wondering if you entered 120hz into your targets window and re-calculated what
The graph would look like?? ARC may be able to apply the needed correction. Just curious.
post #16027 of 16451
Hey guys, i was finally able to take a few minutes to set up ARC. Here are the graphs. Let me know what you guys think. Just for an FYI, here is my setup:

Unfinished Basement (i know the acoustics and room is crap)
Paradigm Studio 100 v5
Paradigm Studio CC-690 v5
Paradigm ADP-590 v5 (5.1)
4 DIY Dayton Ultimax 15 in their own 3Cu ft enclosures
Cerwin Vega CV-5000 for the subs
Outlaw Audio 7700 for mains
MRX300

Please be kind. lol. I may have put the mic too close to the back of the sofa, not sure though.







Level Calibration is as follows:

FL +2
C -2
FR 0
SR 0
SL +1
Sub -5

Any advice or recommendations for the subs etc is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
Edited by 04rex - 12/2/13 at 12:38pm
post #16028 of 16451
Quote:
Originally Posted by grasshoppers View Post

I saw you sub graphs on the Rythmik thread. The slope is not very steep heading down to
120hz. I am wondering if you entered 120hz into your targets window and re-calculated what
The graph would look like?? ARC may be able to apply the needed correction. Just curious.

Tried that.....the correction line turns very ugly if I use 120Hz for the cutoff.
post #16029 of 16451
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigCoolJesus View Post

Tried that.....the correction line turns very ugly if I use 120Hz for the cutoff.

OK, got my curiosity up now.wink.gif How does the graph look with a100hz cutoff?
I reviewed your quick measure graphs and it definitely seems that the second
Row seating measurements seem to be "dragging down" your graphs a bit.
I am also curious how the graph would look if you just concentrated your
Measurements along the front row ??? Also, if you did that, how would it
Sound seated in the second row?

If I correctly understand the ARC sub HP cutoff it has always been desirable
To hit that 120 number. This is so all the -.1- content on a DVD was played by the subs.
Now I could be mistaken, I am only marginally cerebral . wink.gif
I learn some new here everyday.
post #16030 of 16451
Quote:
Originally Posted by 04rex View Post

Hey guys, i was finally able to take a few minutes to set up ARC. Here are the graphs. Let me know what you guys think. Just for an FYI, here is my setup:

Unfinished Basement (i know the acoustics and room is crap)
Paradigm Studio 100 v5
Paradigm Studio CC-690 v5
Paradigm ADP-590 v5 (5.1)
4 DIY Dayton Ultimax 15 in their own 3Cu ft enclosures
Cerwin Vega CV-5000 for the subs
Outlaw Audio 7700 for mains
MRX300

Please be kind. lol. I may have put the mic too close to the back of the sofa, not sure though.

Level Calibration is as follows:

FL +2
C -2
FR 0
SR 0
SL +1
Sub -5

Any advice or recommendations for the subs etc is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Your speaker graphs and targets look very good. Your sub graph has a dip at 50hz
But ARC has managed to correct about half of that null which is good. You have also
Hit the magic 120hz mark which is great. I don't have any ideas on how to deal with 4 subs
And a null.sorry..biggrin.gif
post #16031 of 16451
Quote:
Originally Posted by 04rex View Post

Hey guys, i was finally able to take a few minutes to set up ARC. Here are the graphs. Let me know what you guys think. Just for an FYI, here is my setup:

Unfinished Basement (i know the acoustics and room is crap)
Paradigm Studio 100 v5
Paradigm Studio CC-690 v5
Paradigm ADP-590 v5 (5.1)
4 DIY Dayton Ultimax 15 in their own 3Cu ft enclosures
Cerwin Vega CV-5000 for the subs
Outlaw Audio 7700 for mains
MRX300

Please be kind. lol. I may have put the mic too close to the back of the sofa, not sure though.







Level Calibration is as follows:

FL +2
C -2
FR 0
SR 0
SL +1
Sub -5

Any advice or recommendations for the subs etc is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
Yeah the null is pretty bad. Is your room sealed? If so can you open the door and see if the null goes away? Typically when you have a null in a sealed room opening the door will allow the bass that's bouncing around to exit the room and stop cancelling it's self out.
post #16032 of 16451
Quote:
Originally Posted by grasshoppers View Post

Your speaker graphs and targets look very good. Your sub graph has a dip at 50hz
But ARC has managed to correct about half of that null which is good. You have also
Hit the magic 120hz mark which is great. I don't have any ideas on how to deal with 4 subs
And a null.sorry..biggrin.gif

Thank you. What is the Magic 120hz mark? I actually thought it was weird that the sub was at 120hz and the rest are at 60hz. Including the small rear ADP-590s.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Legairre View Post

Yeah the null is pretty bad. Is your room sealed? If so can you open the door and see if the null goes away? Typically when you have a null in a sealed room opening the door will allow the bass that's bouncing around to exit the room and stop cancelling it's self out.

My room is actually pretty crap. Not sealed and wide open in an unfinished basement. Is there any other option to help out with that?

Since i have 4 15", should i change it to flat for the subs? If so, where do i do that? Would i have to rerun ARC?

Most likely i am going to raise the sub volume as it seems too low for my liking.

Thanks!
post #16033 of 16451
You can change to Flat by clicking "Advanced" in the Target window and then change the "Subwoofer High Pass Order" from Auto to Flat. You can change to Flat but it won't fix the null. To get rid of the null you'll either have to move your seating so you aren't in the null or move the subs until the null is raised. Until you fix the null your bass will always seem to low because you're sitting in a null spot that has a lot less bass. Can you move at least one of the subs and see if that helps?
Edited by Legairre - 12/3/13 at 9:06am
post #16034 of 16451
Is anyone really familiar with multi-zone operation? Im thinking with the right configuration I might be able to get by with just one AVR.

So right now I have two setups: one in the basement with 4 HDMI sources connected to an MRX 300. It's powers a 5.1 system and the HDMI out runs to a plasma.

In the room right above it, I have an older AVR powering just 2 channels. Three HDMI sources connect directly to the TV, and the TV passes stereo PCM or DD5.1 down to the AVR. I could just as easily use the stereo analog from the TV though.

So theoretically, could I run a long optical or stereo analog cable down to the MRX to handle all the audio inputs for the TV upstairs, and then run the speaker cables back up to drive the two channels?

So now if I understand it correctly, zone 2 has completely separate power, input switching, volume control etc? As long as everything is set up correctly in the menu, it would essentially operate the same as having an AVR in both rooms?

Zone 2 has so many strange limitations that I don't feel like I fully understand what it's capable of. Ideally I'd love to have 8 HDMI devices running to the AVR, two HDMI outs (one for each zone), and to be able to just switch and control any device to any zone independently. And preferably with full ARC and audio processing in both zones. But not even the new MRXes can go that far, correct?
Edited by bd2003 - 12/3/13 at 9:25am
post #16035 of 16451
Quote:
Originally Posted by Legairre View Post

You can change to Flat by clicking "Advanced" in the Target window and then change the "Subwoofer High Pass Order" from Auto to Flat. You can change to Flat but it won't fix the null. To get rid of the null you'll either have to move your seating so you aren't in the null or move the subs until the null is raised. Until you fix the null your bass will always seem to low because you're sitting in a null spot that has a lot less bass. Can you move at least one of the subs and see if that helps?

I can probably try and move 2 to 4 of them if needed, but not by much. I for sure cannot move the seating. I guess the best way (i think i read this before) is to do quick measure or something?? What would i look for on the graph so that it is fixed?

Also, what would changing it to flat accomplish? What's the difference?

Also, what is that 120hz magic number talk?

Sorry for all the questions.
post #16036 of 16451
Hey Gents...what would be the easiest way to measure & EQ 2 subs when using ARC...I have the 300 and I know information may have been discussed within this thread. Just point me in the right direction and I'll find it. If anybody knows or has an idea off the top of their head... any help in this matter, would be appreciated.smile.gif

Thanks, Bill...
Edited by Billy p - 12/3/13 at 1:27pm
post #16037 of 16451
I got the popping to, but on my right front and sometimes on all.
It's like your description, when switching sources, starting a movie etc.[/quote]

Has yours always "poped" I've only had mine for a couple of weeks and im trying to work out if its a faulty amp and it need replacing or if they all do it
post #16038 of 16451
Quote:
Originally Posted by Billy p View Post

Hey Gents...what would be the easiest way to measure & EQ 2 subs when using ARC...I have the 300 and I know information may have been discussed within this thread. Just point me in the right direction and I'll find it. If anybody knows or has an idea off the top of their head... any help in this matter, would be appreciated.smile.gif

Thanks, Bill...
Check out pages 17 & 18 of the manual http://www.anthemav.com/downloads/mrx_300500700_manual.pdf . Anthem gives a good description of how to level match two subs for ARC calibration.
post #16039 of 16451
Quote:
Originally Posted by 04rex View Post

I can probably try and move 2 to 4 of them if needed, but not by much. I for sure cannot move the seating. I guess the best way (i think i read this before) is to do quick measure or something?? What would i look for on the graph so that it is fixed?

Also, what would changing it to flat accomplish? What's the difference?

Also, what is that 120hz magic number talk?

Sorry for all the questions.
Hey no, problem glad to help.
Quote:
I guess the best way (i think i read this before) is to do quick measure or something?? What would i look for on the graph so that it is fixed?
Quick measure will continually sweeps one selected speaker to allow you to check for best placement. Quick measure can be found on the " Tool" drop down menu when you open ARC. When running quick measure place the mic in your main seating location. Run quick measure for the sub only and see if the dip at 50Hz raises as you move the sub(s) around. If it raises then you have found a location that will get rid of the null. if it goes down then you're making the null worse. After running quick measure you'll need to rerun ARC.
Quote:
Also, what would changing it to flat accomplish? What's the difference?
Flat removes the Anthem HPF and allow a sub (if it''s capable) to play bass below 20Hz. Otherwise it provides an automatic 20Hz HPF.
Quote:
Also, what is that 120hz magic number talk?
There is bass in the LFE channel all the way up to 120Hz so in order to get all the bass in the LFE channel a 120Hz is the optimal frequency and placement.
post #16040 of 16451
Thanks for the info Legairre. I will try the Quick measure and see what happens. Hopefully it works or I can find the right spot.

I am pretty sure the Ultimax 15s don't have any trouble going below 20hz, so I will definitely change that to flat as well.

Unfortunately I won't be able to do anything until this weekend. So I will respond back with my findings then.

Thanks for the help.

So everything else on the graphs looked good then? All the other speakers?
post #16041 of 16451
Quote:
Originally Posted by 04rex View Post

Thanks for the info Legairre. I will try the Quick measure and see what happens. Hopefully it works or I can find the right spot.

I am pretty sure the Ultimax 15s don't have any trouble going below 20hz, so I will definitely change that to flat as well.

Unfortunately I won't be able to do anything until this weekend. So I will respond back with my findings then.

Thanks for the help.

So everything else on the graphs looked good then? All the other speakers?
Yup everything else(all other speakers) looks good. You just need to fix the null or you will be lacking bass big time in your main seating location.
post #16042 of 16451
Ok cool. Will do. Thanks again.
post #16043 of 16451
Quote:
Originally Posted by Legairre View Post

Check out pages 17 & 18 of the manual http://www.anthemav.com/downloads/mrx_300500700_manual.pdf . Anthem gives a good description of how to level match two subs for ARC calibration.

Thanks....I'll check it out....never got around to reading that section prior....I'll scour through some pages looking for info...before I pose any further questions.smile.gif

Bill
post #16044 of 16451
After running ARC the sub cutoff is set at 80hz & the cutoff for rest of the speakers is at 60hz.. Does that mean I am missing part of LFE? If so is it ok to change the sub cutoff to 120hz & reload ARC without compromising the ARC?
post #16045 of 16451
ARC bypasses the crossover settings for the LFE channel, so no - you're not losing any of the LFE.
post #16046 of 16451

Hi everyone, i need help. I'm totally new to audio systems amps, etc. This is the first time i own a anthem mrx 300 with paradigm ct100 speakers to start with. I've just connected the wiring in place and now i have a serious problem. I can't get audio from my TV to my speakers. I'm using a sony w802.

Basically i connected HDMI out from mrx 300 to my TV, i got a RCA cable to connect the red & white ports into my tv's audio out and mrx 300 analogue in. i've done 3 nights of settings in the anthem menu and i couldn't get any sound out of the system. 

Would greatly appreciate it if any one of you guys could guide me through this, i'm totally frustrated.

post #16047 of 16451
Quote:
Originally Posted by Markcyk View Post

Hi everyone, i need help. I'm totally new to audio systems amps, etc. This is the first time i own a anthem mrx 300 with paradigm ct100 speakers to start with. I've just connected the wiring in place and now i have a serious problem. I can't get audio from my TV to my speakers. I'm using a sony w802.
Basically i connected HDMI out from mrx 300 to my TV, i got a RCA cable to connect the red & white ports into my tv's audio out and mrx 300 analogue in. i've done 3 nights of settings in the anthem menu and i couldn't get any sound out of the system. 
Would greatly appreciate it if any one of you guys could guide me through this, i'm totally frustrated.
Hi and welcome to the wonderful world of AV. Bring up the Anthem main menu screen. from there go all the way to the bottom and do the "Quick Setup". It will ask you a series of questions and setup your system based on your answers. Give that a try and post back. Also if you're using HDMI you don't need the RCA cables from the TV to the receiver. HDMI carries both audio and video in one cable.
post #16048 of 16451

Hi, but MRX 300 do not support audio return channel (ARC) from our tv's right? Thats why i went for the RCA.

post #16049 of 16451

I tried it. It doesn't work.

post #16050 of 16451
Quote:
Originally Posted by Markcyk View Post

I tried it. It doesn't work.

Are you sure those RCA jacks on the TV are audio outputs? Most newer TVs have an optical jack for digital audio out. I would get an optical cable and try that. Also make sure that the input you're using on the MRX is configured to use the right kind of input (optical, coaxial, HDMI, analog, etc).

I don't currently own an MRX so not much help on the menu system.
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