Anthem MRX Receivers - 300, 500, 700 Owners Thread & Tweaking Guide - Page 207

Originally Posted by bolsen187

Just when upgrades seem to work we get this. Won't someone weigh in on this. I really am afraid to push the button. Is this user error or do we have a problem here?

Originally Posted by jayray

Have you contacted Anthem Support?
John

Originally Posted by f468357

I tried to update to 50.12 but cannot get HDMI output(video and audio). The MRX display cycles from 1080I (satellite input resolution) and to blank. The TV shows the same thing. The blu-ray input (HDMI2) does the same thing. I had not changed any video setting so I assume the MRX was set to AUTO. So I then did a Tuner and Power reset and reinstalled. The video was normal until I assigned the MRX SAT input (HDMI1) and then same results. I have tried different cable and TV inputs. Same results. If I unplug the HDMI out the MRX displays a steady 1080I so I assume it is outputting video also. The audio is steady then. Any suggestions would be great. Am I doing something wrong how I am updating? I had been running 50.04 without this issue. Is there something new with 50.12 that I need to change a setting that was different from 50.04? For now I have reinstalled 50.04 but this can't be a long term solution. Thanks.

Originally Posted by bolsen187

Sorry for the confusion . I am hesitant to try the upgrade until someone addresses the above quoted post.

Originally Posted by Tigger!

I understand your hesitation. However, at this point, this is a signal incident that is most likely specifically related to his MRX or something that has been overlooked on his configuration.

Originally Posted by f468357

I agree with what you are saying. Any Idea what configuration error I could look for?? Has something changed with 50.12 I am missing?? What setting comes to mind? Any help would be appreciated.

Originally Posted by Tigger!

Off of the top of my head, no. I would make sure CEC is off on the MRX as that is new. Also, even with CEC off, other devices may detect its presence so I would see if there is an option to turn CEC off on the Sat devices where you are having an issue, just as a percaution that it is not trying to communicate with CEC on. Note, each manufacture has a different name for CEC... so to figure out what you need to turn off, the following may help you:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI#CEC

I would also see what happens if you assign your Sat device to another source instead of sat (as it appears this is where your problems begin if I'm following you correctly). If the problem changes to the source input button... I would directly look at the HDMI cable and settings for that device. Perhaps even try configuring that devices NOT to use the 'Auto' Video profile but force it to an appropriate resolution or try it on "through".

I think as you are having a very specific issue, Anthem's experts will be the best to assist you. If the problem appears to be related directly to the Sat Device you have, it may be a very specific communications issue between the two devices. If you find that your Sat devices is working fine on another Source input (say BDP) and that when you assign another devices like your BDP to the Sat source you see the problem... theny that would be important feed back to give Anthem. Also if it looks like it is the Sat device and MRX that are having issues... be sure you take your troubleshooting one step further and change the HDMI input on the MRX that the Sat device is using... if the problem goes away... see if connecting say your BDP to that HDMI input cause the BDP to now have a similar issue.

And of course (though I think you are already doing this) make sure you try changing out the cable on the problematic device and that there is no strain, twisting, sharp angles of any of the HDMI cables.

Originally Posted by Tigger!

Who makes the TV, what kind of TV is it? The names manufactures give to CEC look nothing like they would be related.

Trade names for CEC are Anynet+ (Samsung); Aquos Link (Sharp); BRAVIA Sync (Sony); HDMI-CEC (Hitachi); E-link (AOC); Kuro Link (Pioneer); CE-Link and Regza Link (Toshiba); RIHD (Remote Interactive over HDMI) (Onkyo); SimpLink (LG); HDAVI Control, EZ-Sync, VIERA Link (Panasonic); EasyLink (Philips); and NetCommand for HDMI (Mitsubishi).

I have to say, Hitachi is the only one who just simply stuck with what it is when they named it! Guess Marketing got involved everywhere else

Originally Posted by f468357

Just to update Anthem (Piero) was very good about calling me back. We discussed options and he gave me things to try. He thought it sounded like a handshake issue and likely CEC related. I verified that the CEC is off and I tried setting the output from AUTO to all of the other choices. I tried all of the things suggested and still no good. Hopefully I will talk to him tomorrow and see what else can be tried. Tigger! you asked TV brand. It is a Sharp LC-46SB57UN.

Originally Posted by Tigger!


1) Place your sub in your listening position (literally)
2) Take your ARC mic, in Quick Measure Mode and walk around the room sampling areas where you could put the sub.
3) Once you find the best looking graph with Quick Measure, swap the Sub and the Mic positions. Believe it or now, they should look almost the same!

This does require somehow getting the speaker to your listening position... and then of course back to where it needs to go, but it could be easier than moving it around your room a lot!

Originally Posted by sneill

Q2) Surely this method will not cover for wall reflections with the sub?
I'm not sure it that the correct terminology, but do Subs not generate bloated bass when in certain postions near a wall?
I am not trying to be negative about the process, it seems a great idea - I'm just curious?

Originally Posted by Obsidians


Subs experience reinforcement when positioned near a wall, or several walls. That is, you get the sound coming at you directly from the sub, and also bouncing off the wall right beside the sub.

A similar thing happens if you (or your mic) are positioned next to the wall. You get the sound from the sub and the sound bouncing off the wall from the sub.

That's basically why the whole idea works in the first place: the paths the sound is taken are (roughly) symetric. If you switch positions, you're still experiencing the same reinforcements, the same cancellations, the same standing wave effects. It's not perfect, of course, but it's a lot easier than dragging a 100+ lb sub around the room, and it gives a pretty good estimation.

Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau

The main difference is that you are unlikely to position the sub at seated ear height while doing this!

But since the biggest part of the problem in sub positioning is usually in the horizontal dimension this approach works well.

In bass frequencies, even inches matter. So having found a good candidate location for the sub in this fashion, put it there, put the mic back at the listening position, and try rotating/shifting the sub a bit to find the best orientation/location close to that original candidate location (as shown by the real time, Quick Measure curve). Also move the mic around to the different ARC mic positions and look at the variation in sub Quick Measure response. Mentally average these changes and use the sub position/orientation which appears to give you the most uniform response across the ARC mic positions.

Concentrate most on eliminating significant dips, as it is tougher for ARC to fill in a dip than to cut down a peak. Treat any roll off at the low and high bass ends as a dip. A position that gives you better extension to the low and high ends is good. Don't worry about it being too good as ARC can attenuate any excess.

NOTE: The red Measured curve the ARC charts show for any speaker, including the sub, after an ARC Measurement pass, is a simple, unweighted average of the raw data from each of the ARC mic positions.
--Bob

Originally Posted by sneill

...
Q1) Does the ARC software/graph automatically update when you reposition the mic or do I need to press a specific button to get it to refresh?
...

Originally Posted by sneill

Obsidians - thanks for your reply, that makes sense now

Hi Bob,
thanks for that additional tweaking guide and confirming it’s a real-time data feed .
I’ll be using a single 3 seater sofa as primary listening position..
Should I focus on that location when doing the final tweaks you have suggested?

Originally Posted by sneill

Obsidians - thanks for your reply, that makes sense now

Hi Bob,
thanks for that additional tweaking guide and confirming it's a real-time data feed .
I'll be using a single 3 seater sofa as primary listening position..
Should I focus on that location when doing the final tweaks you have suggested?

Originally Posted by sukumar

I am using MRX 700 with Paradigm Studio 100,690 and ADP 590. What is the volume level that is close to the sound in the theater? I do have sound meter from Radio shack also to check anything. I guess since it is not constant volume, may be my question refers to peak volume. Curious to know. I usually go to at most -25db. I need to try little louder when my wife is not around;-)

Originally Posted by f468357

I worked on my situation more tonight and it is working as of now. It turned out to be a required TV software update. I thought I had the latest version but after calling them it was not. I would like to point out that the support from Anthem (in particular Piero) was incredible. After he worked with me on the phone and we tried all of their suggestions he offered to swap out my unit just to be sure. I did not request it but was his suggestion. He didn't think it was the MRX's issue but was going to swap it out just in case. So for anybody wondering about purchasing an MRX (or updating to 50.12) quite thinking about it and do it. I haven't spent enough time with 50.12 to comment but after my experience over the last few days I have no worries that it will be pretty good. Maybe not perfect. But if not any issues will be addressed. Also thanks for any suggestions that were given to me from here.

Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau

Decide which mic positions you are going to use for ARC Measurement (i.e., to sample your seating area). When locating the candidate sub position use ARC mic position #1 -- the central mic position. Refine the sub position by experimenting with sub orientation and shifting near that candidate position to see what benefit such small shifts might give you. That's a good point to start moving the ARC mic around to see which sub placement gives you the most uniform response across the set of mic positions. It is probably sufficient to test just the #1 position and the two outer positions on either side. Quick Measure updates in real time, but give it a few cycles to settle down after you move the sub or move the mic. I.e., just leave Quick Measure running, move the mic, and wait a few sweeps before believing the chart.
--Bob

Originally Posted by hehateme

Hi:

I am new Anthem user and struggling to do basic things a receiver can do.
I haven't run arc yet because I am waiting for the keyspan adapter to arrive.
My firmware is 40.08 and I cannot update it due to lack of adapter.
I also have Anthem MCA-30 driving my LCR speakers.

LCR Speakers are Paradigm Studio 100's
Sub is Paradigm Sub 15
Rear and surrounds are Triad In/Wall Bronze

My current Blu Ray player is Panasonic DMP-BDP310 but my new Oppo 93 will be delivered today.

I have not been able to get any sound into the sub woofer.
First I found out that default settings in the Panasonic were to downgrade 2 channel PCM. I changed its setting to bitstream and Anthem receiver started showing Dolby 3/2 when I played Casino royale.

I don't hear any sound coming out of the sub woofer. It is plugged in and the cables are connected. I am using Sub W pre-out from the receiver and plugged into LFE in in the sub woofer.

I have tried doing a quick setup many times. I do this when I have a BluRay movie playing. First question I have to answer is something like HDMI/TV what should be the answer. I am using a Projector.

When I choose the subwoofer to Yes the receiver changes from BluRay to Tuner on its own.

I have 2 sets of wires running from the media closet to the sub woofer. I was thinking of switching wires to rule out bad prewiring.

Let me know if anyone has any suggestion to verify if my sub woofer works.

I have waited a very long time to finish the home theater so it is tough to not being to able to get even 7.1 working.

Thanks