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Anthem MRX Receivers - 300, 500, 700 Owners Thread & Tweaking Guide - Page 241

post #7201 of 14638
Quote:
Originally Posted by sneill View Post

Hi,

Well problem is with my B&W ASW825

I connected a different sub tonight, a Kef Cube 2 and voila: loud clear bass.

I see 2 fuse terminals on the back, so perhaps one has blown and maybe this is why I'm still seeing the power light glow green.

I'll contact B&W and my dealer tomorrow, I have a good relationship with my dealer so I'm sure I'll get it fixed. Just a pain having to lift/move that 35kg beast

Anyhow thanks for the reply, appreciate it.

Well I am happy and sorry to hear. I'm happy that it wasn't the MRX and that you figured it out but sorry that something is broken. I hear you about moving the sub. I have a sub 2 and even with furniture movers it is a bitch to move.
post #7202 of 14638
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeffeMusic View Post

Hello Kal,
Just curious since you have been posting in this forum does this mean that we should be expecting a Stereophile review of the MRX in an upcoming issue?

MRX700 in January issue.
post #7203 of 14638
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kal Rubinson View Post

MRX700 in January issue.

Thanks Kal,
I cant wait! I am totally blown away with the quality of it!
post #7204 of 14638
For those who have been waiting for the latest Official Production Firmware, v50.19 is now out: http://anthemav.com/downloads/anthem/a-v-receiver/

Release Notes:

v50.19 main update:

1. Sudden loss or corruption of audio issue resolved.
2. Subwoofer level in manual level calibration menu fixed.
3. A certain US satellite receiver can have an issue when playing 3D while connected through an AVR (any brand). Although the satellite publicly acknowledged that it is their issue, we made a change for MRX which may help regardless.
4. Handshake issue with Mac Mini DVI source - fixed.
5. Fixed issue where surround-side and surround-back levels were swapped contrary to corresponding values displayed in setup menu.

v50.12 main update:

1. Added HDMI CEC - see manual dated 2011-08-08 or later on back cover.
2. For serial commands, inter-character timeout has been increased to 2 seconds. Note that if command is sent while MRX is in standby, it is considered MCU wake-up and next command must be sent within 20s.
3. (MRX 700 120V only) With TT? serial command, AM station data was not being sent - fixed.
4. Fixes for various operational problems reported by users.

MRX 500/700 v50.04 main update (MRX 300 v50.01):

1. 3D capability according to HDMI v1.4a specification.
2. More serial commands - see .xls file in download.

MRX 500/700 v50.02 main update (MRX 300 v40.06):
1. Beginning of songs on CD were being muted - fixed.
2. Added basic serial commands - see text file in download.

MRX 500/700 v50.00 main update:

1. Changed Dolby Volume setup menu default to Off and Dolby Volume Leveler to Low (this does not change menu settings in use before loading the update).
2. Fix for S/PDIF audio loss when cable/sat receiver switched between SD and HD channels.
3. Copy protection should not engage with component in/out HD resolution - fixed.
4. Fix for a video game that couldn't be displayed properly.
5. Fix for a Blu-ray player that could not be connected in MRX Through mode when outputting 1080p24.
post #7205 of 14638
Another link, if only software is needed (no manuals or data sheets):

http://www.anthemav.com/support/latest-software
post #7206 of 14638
The reason for not including distance measurement with ARC is that there is a PC in the system. It's impossible to know the latency each PC creates therefore no way to correlate distance to time. We realize that requiring a PC is less user friendly but there is no other way to obtain the same level of room correction performance.

Another potential reason, even with no PC, is that standing waves could skew sub distance measurement depending on measurement method. We've seen receivers which set distance automatically act as if the sub is 40+ feet away when the real distance is much less. Of course, it all depends on the room and sub placement.
post #7207 of 14638
Quote:
Originally Posted by dglozic View Post

I have a B&W ASW825 but cannot offer a lot of advise - in auto mode it turns on as soon as there is signal at input. I set the volume at 9 o'clock and low pass filter to 'out' (you should too to allow the receiver to fully control the low pass cutoff).

I know it sound stupid so forgive me for asking but did you plugged the subwoofer cable into the 'out' instead of one of the 'in' (L or R) sockets?

Hi dglozic,

I welcome all suggestions thanks.
I'm a firm believer in the old phrase: "there are no stupid questions only..."
I double checked I am inserting the cable into 'in' sockets and tried both L & R thanks.
B&W UK directed me to my local dealer here in Dublin who I know really well.
My dealer says it's worth checking the fuses but if neither is blown then my only option is to take it into them.
I'm in work and will check this tonight; I actually hope it's a blown fuse now - nice and simple.

BTW - thanks for those setting on your B&W ASW825, do you also have a Anthem, do you use ARC and how do you find the results?
I tried the Kef Kube 2 with ARC last night, just to familiarise myself with ARC user interface.
ARC set to ON' definitely improved the sound but the KEF Kube 2 is weedy, I'm not a bass freak but I can say it's night and day versus the B&W ASW825.
But I guess that's to be expected given the large price difference etc
post #7208 of 14638
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick @ Anthem View Post

Another link, if only software is needed (no manuals or data sheets):

http://www.anthemav.com/support/latest-software

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick @ Anthem View Post

The reason for not including distance measurement with ARC is that there is a PC in the system. It's impossible to know the latency each PC creates therefore no way to correlate distance to time. We realize that requiring a PC is less user friendly but there is no other way to obtain the same level of room correction performance.

Another potential reason, even with no PC, is that standing waves could skew sub distance measurement depending on measurement method. We've seen receivers which set distance automatically act as if the sub is 40+ feet away when the real distance is much less. Of course, it all depends on the room and sub placement.

Thanks Nick! Always great to see you on here. It says a lot that you take time to stop by once in a while. (Though we wish you were on here all the time! )

Anything new in the pipeline for the MRX series that you can tell us about?
post #7209 of 14638
Quote:
Originally Posted by rwheelwright View Post

Well I am happy and sorry to hear. I'm happy that it wasn't the MRX and that you figured it out but sorry that something is broken. I hear you about moving the sub. I have a sub 2 and even with furniture movers it is a bitch to move.

I heard a Sub 2 ( with Athem D2V + P5) at Bristol Hifi show last year, it was amazing.
I just goolged it - wow 106kg/230lb.
I spoke with my B&W dealer today and unless it's a blown fuse(there are 2 on the back) then I'm hauling my 35kg lump, seems trivial bitching about it now compared to your 106kg
post #7210 of 14638
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick @ Anthem View Post

The reason for not including distance measurement with ARC is that there is a PC in the system. It's impossible to know the latency each PC creates therefore no way to correlate distance to time. We realize that requiring a PC is less user friendly but there is no other way to obtain the same level of room correction performance.

Interesting point. I never associated that with the observation that the ARC mic connects to the PC while in some other systems the mic connects directly to the processor/AVR.
post #7211 of 14638
Quote:
Originally Posted by sneill View Post

I heard a Sub 2 ( with Athem D2V + P5) at Bristol Hifi show last year, it was amazing.
I just goolged it - wow 106kg/230lb.
I spoke with my B&W dealer today and unless it's a blown fuse(there are 2 on the back) then I'm hauling my 35kg lump, seems trivial bitching about it now compared to your 106kg

Well, I hope it is just the fuse. That would be easy.

I want a P5 and a D2V but I'll settle for the P5 for now and use my MRX.
post #7212 of 14638
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick @ Anthem View Post


Another link, if only software is needed (no manuals or data sheets):

http://www.anthemav.com/support/latest-software

Hi Nick.

Firmware downloaded and installed, and I have a question:

How much smoothing is presented in your Graphs regarding ARC software?

Downloading and installation took a while....., but looks like all systems are up and running

post #7213 of 14638
Quote:
Originally Posted by sneill View Post

Hi dglozic,

BTW - thanks for those setting on your B&W ASW825, do you also have a Anthem, do you use ARC and how do you find the results?

I don't have Anthem yet but am just about to pull the plug. The only thing I am debating with myself is which of the three choices to pick:

1) MRX 700
2) MRX 300 + PVA 5 or 7 (PVA 7 for more headroom or biamping the L/R)
3) MRX 300 + MCA 50

Since I have B&W 805s and HTM4s in addition to ASW 825 and live in an apartment, my dealers suggests option 2). He thinks that PVA's control and sound quality will be appreciated by the speakers such as 805s/HTM4s. He also thinks that for an apartment's living room, MCA 50 is massive overkill.

He told me that one of his customers started with MRX 500 only powering tough to drive 4 ohm M&K speakers in a room larger than mine, thought he needs more power, got PVA and is now happy. According to him, he is not reaching the limits of PVA in a room larger than mine, hence the 'overkill' comment re MCA 50.

Personally I am attracted to the simplicity of the one-box setup. Since I don't have 805s for surrounds (I have a 5.1 system with B&W CM1s flanking the sofa), perhaps I can get by on receiver power for them and only add an amp for the fronts to MRX 700 if really needed. OTOH, since 805s can dip slightly below 4ohm at some frequences, extra damping factor and current of PVAs may prove beneficial. Decisions, decisions ...

One factor that made my process harder is that it is getting hard to audition Anthem power amps in Toronto - dealers can order them but normally don't have them in the store (only receivers). I would have to order PVA unheard - essentially trusting the reviews, specs and the expectation that it is a step up from the internal MRX amps. That makes me slightly nervous.
post #7214 of 14638
Quote:
Originally Posted by dglozic View Post


I don't have Anthem yet but am just about to pull the plug. The only thing I am debating with myself is which of the three choices to pick:

1) MRX 700
2) MRX 300 + PVA 5 or 7 (PVA 7 for more headroom or biamping the L/R)
3) MRX 300 + MCA 50

Since I have B&W 805s and HTM4s in addition to ASW 825 and live in an apartment, my dealers suggests option 2). He thinks that PVA's control and sound quality will be appreciated by the speakers such as 805s/HTM4s. He also thinks that for an apartment's living room, MCA 50 is massive overkill.

He told me that one of his customers started with MRX 500 only powering tough to drive 4 ohm M&K speakers in a room larger than mine, thought he needs more power, got PVA and is now happy. According to him, he is not reaching the limits of PVA in a room larger than mine, hence the 'overkill' comment re MCA 50.

Personally I am attracted to the simplicity of the one-box setup. Since I don't have 805s for surrounds (I have a 5.1 system with B&W CM1s flanking the sofa), perhaps I can get by on receiver power for them and only add an amp for the fronts to MRX 700 if really needed. OTOH, since 805s can dip slightly below 4ohm at some frequences, extra damping factor and current of PVAs may prove beneficial. Decisions, decisions ...

One factor that made my process harder is that it is getting hard to audition Anthem power amps in Toronto - dealers can order them but normally don't have them in the store (only receivers). I would have to order PVA unheard - essentially trusting the reviews, specs and the expectation that it is a step up from the internal MRX amps. That makes me slightly nervous.

It is very likely a step up, is it needed, that's another issue. Wait and see if you need it, then buy one. Check Trutone in Mississauga.
John
post #7215 of 14638
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayray View Post

It is very likely a step up, is it needed, that's another issue. Wait and see if you need it, then buy one. Check Trutone in Mississauga.
John

I did - they too didn't have any Anthem amps in the store. I actually managed to hear MCA 50 in Kromer Radio, but it was connected to Paradigm Signature S6, as well as AVM 50V. The sound was efortless, tight, well controlled, with a deep bass and clean highs. Now I have to assume that it will work similarly well in my room, on my B&W speakers and driven by MRX 300 instead of AVM 50V - kind of a leap of faith

As for the 'wait and see', it is not that simple. If I buy MRX 700 and then realize I would like external amps, then the extra money I spent over MRX 300 for the internal amps was wasted (unless I go for something like MCA 30 for the front + MRX 700, then it comes to more-less the same as MRX 300 + MCA 50).
post #7216 of 14638
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayray View Post

It is very likely a step up, is it needed, that's another issue.
John

Jayray, I have noticed that you often suggest people to just use MRX and that it is sufficient, yet we know you have Anthem separates in you main system. Surely you must be more than content with your MRX 500 in your bedroom but you are still keeping your main system, implying that there is something to be gained with separates . That should make you sympathetic to us who feel the pangs of doubt when contemplating having all our music and movie needs handled by a single box.
post #7217 of 14638
Quote:
Originally Posted by dglozic View Post


Jayray, I have noticed that you often suggest people to just use MRX and that it is sufficient, yet we know you have Anthem separates in you main system. Surely you must be more than content with your MRX 500 in your bedroom but you are still keeping your main system, implying that there is something to be gain with separates . That should make you sympathetic to us who feel the pangs of doubt when contemplating having all our music and movie needs handled by a single box.

I have separates with my D2v. My main HT is 14'x25 and with Studio 100s, and CC690. Separates work well in that setup. Not everyone plays loudly in a room that large and with a preamp. Anthem has tested these receivers under many different conditions and recommend the same thing and they sell the amps. I recommend the MRXs first without ext. amps because they have very good. internal amplification. Why spend the money if you don't have to.
John
post #7218 of 14638
Hi ARC gurus,

Please comment on my arc charts. Just a simple 3.0 system, so probably not much that can be done (apartment living means no space or bass! ).

Level Calibrations:
FL: +1
C: -1
FR: +1

Thanks

Nathan
LL
LL
post #7219 of 14638
Quote:
Originally Posted by nw06 View Post

Hi ARC gurus,

Please comment on my arc charts. Just a simple 3.0 system, so probably not much that can be done (apartment living means no space or bass! ).

Level Calibrations:
FL: +1
C: -1
FR: +1

Thanks

Nathan

Welcome! And congrats!

Are your Left & Right Front speakers close to a wall? If you can pull them away from the wall a bit, the low end my settle down a bit which would probably help.

Overall though, ARC has done a good job for the most part.

If you can improve the low end by getting the mountains to drop a bit I think that will help a lot.
post #7220 of 14638
Yes, I noticed the Everest peaks there!

Given I have no sub, and am using bookshelfs (Kef XQ20s), would it be better to try and accentuate the bass, rather than flattening it out anyway?

I don't have much scope to move them away from the walls really. The left speaker is about 10cm out from the back wall and the right speaker the same for the back and 20cm from the right wall as well. I could move them further forward and in towards the listening position a bit more, but then I am worried it will narrow the 'soundstage' too much.

Cheers
post #7221 of 14638
Quote:
Originally Posted by nw06 View Post

Yes, I noticed the Everest peaks there!

Given I have no sub, and am using bookshelfs (Kef XQ20s), would it be better to try and accentuate the bass, rather than flattening it out anyway?

I don't have much scope to move them away from the walls really. The left speaker is about 10cm out from the back wall and the right speaker the same for the back and 20cm from the right wall as well. I could move them further forward and in towards the listening position a bit more, but then I am worried it will narrow the 'soundstage' too much.

Cheers

I think your charts look good. You have a peak in you FL and FR mains; but, ARC has done a very good of taming those for you. I would say listen to it for a while and let your ears tell you if you need to make adjustments. That's my advice to everyone. Just listen to what ARC gives you first for at least a week or two to determine if you like it. Then if you want to begin tweaking, you have a baseline to go from. Just my .02. Enjoy
post #7222 of 14638
Quote:
Originally Posted by sneill View Post

Thanks for your reply.

I'm in work at moment..I believe I inserted the cbale correclty at boht ends but your point is valid and I have made a simialr basic mistake before

I'm borrowing a firneds SUbwoofer tonight to see if there's a problem with my subwoofer.
.
I'll try a factory restore
- definitely a good suggestion
- I have nothing to lose by not giving that a try

I believe steps for factory reset are:
(1) Unit off (2) Hold tuner button then simultaneously hit power button (3) Hold tuner button until power back on (4) release tuner button

Anyone else got any alternate suggestions?
I'll update tonight once I've tried alternate sub + factory reset naturally

I would check to make sure your cable is in the sub "out" from the MRX, easy to get wrong if dark, cramped hard to see the rear panel etc, good luck!
post #7223 of 14638
Quote:
Originally Posted by nw06 View Post

Yes, I noticed the Everest peaks there!

Given I have no sub, and am using bookshelfs (Kef XQ20s), would it be better to try and accentuate the bass, rather than flattening it out anyway?

I don't have much scope to move them away from the walls really. The left speaker is about 10cm out from the back wall and the right speaker the same for the back and 20cm from the right wall as well. I could move them further forward and in towards the listening position a bit more, but then I am worried it will narrow the 'soundstage' too much.

Cheers

So you are not near just 1 wall but 2! Double the trouble Though being bookshelf speakers, they expect to be near at least 1 wall, so that is why they are not even higher peaks

As Ninja12 said and I mentioned in my first post, ARC has done a great job and so it is not essential to move things. However, if you did have some room to pull the speaker forward away from the wall to 25-30 cm, it would likely help tame the peaks a bit more and ARC may be able to devote resources to improving things even greater.

With regards to no sub, I think some room gain is definitely helpful. However you have far to much and as such ARC is knocking it down. Your end result should still be a similar amount of room gain, once you knock the peaks down some (we are not aiming to make your measure curve flat... it will still be hilly, hopefully just not Mount Everest ). The end result, for the calcualted curve, is going to most likely look nearly the same as it does now, except perhaps, if ARC does not have to work as hard to knock the moutain down, it will be able to better improve another area as well.

However, I would give what you have now a try... I hope you saved your current ARC configuration file... then if you want to try playing, try moving the speakers out a bit (I think your sounds stage will be fine, maybe a little more detailed)... if you don't like what you get when you get when playing, up the speakers back in their origional spot and upload your origional ARC configuration!
post #7224 of 14638
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigger! View Post

Anything new in the pipeline for the MRX series that you can tell us about?

That's all for now, and not to imply that the door is closed - if any issues remain please don't hesitate to contact tech support.
post #7225 of 14638
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flageborg View Post

How much smoothing is presented in your Graphs regarding ARC software?

It's 1/12th octave.
post #7226 of 14638
Quick question, apologies if it has been asked. After updating the firmware, do you have to also perform a full measurement and arc calibration or will your settings/curves remain intact?

Thanks
post #7227 of 14638
Ok I know there are probly hundreds of threads out there concerning this question ......but I just installed and calibrated my new outlaw audio LFM1 Plus sub set ARC to flat and would like to know just 2 or 3 movies that dip below the 20Hz mark. I want to hear what this baby can do!
post #7228 of 14638
Quote:
Originally Posted by Britcanuck View Post

Quick question, apologies if it has been asked. After updating the firmware, do you have to also perform a full measurement and arc calibration or will your settings/curves remain intact?

Thanks

No need to remeasure. ARC settings remain intact Most people reload the last solution just in case and since the cable is already connected.
post #7229 of 14638
Quote:
Originally Posted by sbr100 View Post

Ok I know there are probly hundreds of threads out there concerning this question ......but I just installed and calibrated my new outlaw audio LFM1 Plus sub set ARC to flat and would like to know just 2 or 3 movies that dip below the 20Hz mark. I want to hear what this baby can do!

War of the Worlds, Max Payne, Cloverfield and LOTR would be a good start. There is thread that lists titles by LFE prowess.
John
post #7230 of 14638
I ran ARC for the first time today. Previously I had somebody else run it since I didn't have a way of getting it to run on my computer...

Anyways, I also ran it for the first time with my GoldenEar setup. Was surprised that it wanted to cross the fronts at 60hz and the center at 120hz. Ended up changing the fronts to large.

Let me know what you think of the charts because honestly, I can't tell if things are good or not..lol
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