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Anthem MRX Receivers - 300, 500, 700 Owners Thread & Tweaking Guide - Page 254

post #7591 of 14608
I'm driving an MRX300 via HDMI from a HTPC that is playing FLAC files. The files are 2 ch audio and the MRX reads these as "Multi PCM". I can hit the "audio" button on the remote and switch the audio output to "stereo". However, in the setup menus, I don't see a way to set "Multi PCM" to stereo by default, the only options are "none" and all of the Anthem and Dolby processing modes. Am I missing something?

Also, is the "multi PCM" just an artifact of the PC player s/w, or is it encoded this way due to the HDMI? I prefer to keep it 2.0 PCM all the way through, if possible. I know this is not MRX-specific, so I will ask elsewhere if needed. Thanks
post #7592 of 14608
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeffeMusic View Post


Thanks John,
I have watched WOTW, and I feel like my Apt is going fall through to the next floor. Will my graph look different when I recalculate? FYI my sub does go under 20hz, and yes it does have protection. But I never listen to movies under -30.

Since the charts stop at 20Hz, you won't likely see anything but should feel something. As the alien pod emerges, you should feel low freq. punch.
John
post #7593 of 14608
Quote:
Originally Posted by jayray View Post


Since the charts stop at 20Hz, you won't likely see anything but should feel something. As the alien pod emerges, you should feel low freq. punch.
John

Ok,
I will try it and let you know. Do you have your main room set to flat?
post #7594 of 14608
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeffeMusic View Post


Ok,
I will try it and let you know. Do you have your main room set to flat?

My main HT with my D2v and sub 25 is set to flat and I did notice what I suggested you might experience. My MRX is hooked up to what people call a sub but I call a boom box
John
post #7595 of 14608
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeffeMusic View Post

Thanks John,
I have watched WOTW, and I feel like my Apt is going fall through to the next floor. Will my graph look different when I recalculate? FYI my sub does go under 20hz, and yes it does have protection. But I never listen to movies under -30.

after listening to wotw, i tweaked my sub down to eliminate rattling, excessive boom, etc. that was about 2 months ago and my bass has never sounded better. i would encourage all to re-watch this movie (specifically, the pod scene where it comes out of the ground) to see if your sub is boomy or not.
post #7596 of 14608
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony A. View Post


after listening to wotw, i tweaked my sub down to eliminate rattling, excessive boom, etc. that was about 2 months ago and my bass has never sounded better. i would encourage all to re-watch this movie (specifically, the pod scene where it comes out of the ground) to see if your sub is boomy or not.

Hello Anthony,
Did you set your sub to flat?
post #7597 of 14608
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeffeMusic View Post

Thanks John,
I have watched WOTW, and I feel like my Apt is going fall through to the next floor. Will my graph look different when I recalculate? FYI my sub does go under 20hz, and yes it does have protection. But I never listen to movies under -30.

HeffMusic,

Are you sure we didn't already have you set your sub to "Flat"? Check your targets window... your graph look like it may already be turned on...
post #7598 of 14608
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigger! View Post


HeffMusic,

Are you sure we didn't already have you set your sub to "Flat"? Check your targets window... your graph look like it may already be turned on...

Hello,
No I had it set to auto. But I changed it last night night. I will watch Super 8 tonight and let you know.
post #7599 of 14608
Fed Ex is bringing my SVS PB13+ today and I'll be hooking it up to my MRX 500. I did a search about what to put the subs settings at to do an ARC calculation and I came up with:
1. Set the distance
2. Set Phase
3. Turn the subs internal xover off or as high as it will go.
4. Set the low pass filter as high as it will go.
Are there any other settings or do I have it covered?

Thanks,
Ken
post #7600 of 14608
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensmith48 View Post

Fed Ex is bringing my SVS PB13+ today and I'll be hooking it up to my MRX 500. I did a search about what to put the subs settings at to do an ARC calculation and I came up with:
1. Set the distance
2. Set Phase
3. Turn the subs internal xover off or as high as it will go.
4. Set the low pass filter as high as it will go.
Are there any other settings or do I have it covered?

Thanks,
Ken

Set the volume about 12 o'clock. otherwise I think you have it. You can do phase and distance before or after ARC doesn't matter.

Post your charts and targets when you're done so we can all have a look.
post #7601 of 14608
Will do, might not post until tomorrow though.

Ken
post #7602 of 14608
Found a dealer that currently has the the mrx-500 and mrx-700 on sale. The mrx-700 is about $410 more but I'm not sure if I really need to go with the mrx-700. I'll be replacing a Marantz sr7002 with the Anthem.

Speakers are: Energy rc-70 (left, right), Energy rc-lcr (centre), Mirage OMD-5 (rears), and SVS PB10-nsd (bash amp).

Questions are:

1) should I go for the mrx-700, or;
2) should I go for the mrx-500 and put the $410 towards a better sub or external amp; and
3) should I be worried about the popping issue people have talked about in this thread?

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for taking the time to read my thread.
post #7603 of 14608
Quote:
Originally Posted by audit13 View Post

Found a dealer that currently has the the mrx-500 and mrx-700 on sale. The mrx-700 is about $410 more but I'm not sure if I really need to go with the mrx-700. I'll be replacing a Marantz sr7002 with the Anthem.

Speakers are: Energy rc-70 (left, right), Energy rc-lcr (centre), Mirage OMD-5 (rears), and SVS PB10-nsd (bash amp).

Questions are:

1) should I go for the mrx-700, or;
2) should I go for the mrx-500 and put the $410 towards a better sub or external amp; and
3) should I be worried about the popping issue people have talked about in this thread?

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for taking the time to read my thread.

I have the 700 and compared to an external (B&K 200.5). I sold my external amp. The amp in the 700 works well for me.
post #7604 of 14608
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian-HD View Post

I have the 700 and compared to an external (B&K 200.5). I sold my external amp. The amp in the 700 works well for me.

Thanks for the info. Was there a particular reason you chose the 700 over the 500 and 300?
post #7605 of 14608
Quote:
Originally Posted by bcms6 View Post

Also, is the "multi PCM" just an artifact of the PC player s/w, or is it encoded this way due to the HDMI? I prefer to keep it 2.0 PCM all the way through, if possible. I know this is not MRX-specific, so I will ask elsewhere if needed. Thanks

IIRC, Windows (assuming your HTPC is some flavor of Windows) always outputs however many channels the sound device is configured for. So to output a true 2.0 signal (rather than a 5.1 or 7.1 signal with actual sound only coming through the front L+R channels), you'll have to change the speaker configuration on the sound device in Windows to stereo.
post #7606 of 14608
Quote:
Originally Posted by audit13 View Post

Thanks for the info. Was there a particular reason you chose the 700 over the 500 and 300?

At that time, it was the Amp.
post #7607 of 14608
im getting screwy hdmi handshake lately with my mrx and external scaler. all of my sources are fed into the scaler. since it has 2 hdmi outs, i tried running 1 hdmi out directly to the pj and the other into an input on the mrx. if i do that, i get a crazy green screen in passthrough mode. no idea why, but im thinking if i output the hdmi to the pj and use optical out on the scaler and instead of using hdmi audio on the mrx, i use the optical instead, will i still be able to enjoy lossless audio, etc. exactly like i was when running audio through hdmi?
post #7608 of 14608
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony A. View Post

im getting screwy hdmi handshake lately with my mrx and external scaler. all of my sources are fed into the scaler. since it has 2 hdmi outs, i tried running 1 hdmi out directly to the pj and the other into an input on the mrx. if i do that, i get a crazy green screen in passthrough mode. no idea why, but im thinking if i output the hdmi to the pj and use optical out on the scaler and instead of using hdmi audio on the mrx, i use the optical instead, will i still be able to enjoy lossless audio, etc. exactly like i was when running audio through hdmi?

THROW the SCALER in the Dump and all will work fine.
post #7609 of 14608
FLAC support is on my x-mas wish list...
post #7610 of 14608
Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

THROW the SCALER in the Dump and all will work fine.

i wish that were the case, but it is the mrx that is creating the issues and tech support has confirmed it. if it didn't sound so good, i wouldn't keep it around. a used d1 may also treat me well if these hdmi woes aren't solved
post #7611 of 14608
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony A. View Post

im getting screwy hdmi handshake lately with my mrx and external scaler. all of my sources are fed into the scaler. since it has 2 hdmi outs, i tried running 1 hdmi out directly to the pj and the other into an input on the mrx. if i do that, i get a crazy green screen in passthrough mode. no idea why, but im thinking if i output the hdmi to the pj and use optical out on the scaler and instead of using hdmi audio on the mrx, i use the optical instead, will i still be able to enjoy lossless audio, etc. exactly like i was when running audio through hdmi?

If by "crazy green screen" you mean moving video that's tinted Ghastly Green (as opposed to a solid green screen), then you have a color space mismatch in your combo of stuff. Something thinks it is receiving YCbCr video data format when it is actually receiving RGB. Check your video output and next device input settings for each connection. Try explicit data format choices instead of Auto.

A solid green screen likely means a copy protection failure which could be as simple as a faulty cable or poor plug/socket fit.

Optical cable will not carry multichannel LPCM or the high bit rate Bitstreams. You'll get stereo LPCM or a lossy Bitstream like traditional DD 5.1 instead.

Why are you using an external scaler in the first place? You may not really need it.

When you ran video direct to your display and audio to the MRX, did you try disconnecting the video OUTPUT from the MRX?
--Bob
post #7612 of 14608
Does anybody know how high the volumes goes? I tried until now -15. Is 0 means reference level with something?

What is the level that corresponds to typical movie theater loudness level?
post #7613 of 14608
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

If by "crazy green screen" you mean moving video that's tinted Ghastly Green (as opposed to a solid green screen), then you have a color space mismatch in your combo of stuff. Something thinks it is receiving YCbCr video data format when it is actually receiving RGB. Check your video output and next device input settings for each connection. Try explicit data format choices instead of Auto.

A solid green screen likely means a copy protection failure which could be as simple as a faulty cable or poor plug/socket fit.

Optical cable will not carry multichannel LPCM or the high bit rate Bitstreams. You'll get stereo LPCM or a lossy Bitstream like traditional DD 5.1 instead.

Why are you using an external scaler in the first place? You may not really need it.

When you ran video direct to your display and audio to the MRX, did you try disconnecting the video OUTPUT from the MRX?
--Bob

yes, it looks like a colorspace mismatch as you describe. the thing is, all the settings have remained the same on both the scaler and mrx (set to passthrough). it has worked fine for almost a year now without a hiccup then suddenly after upgrading firmwares from 50.11 and up, i would get a dropped signal every five minutes. my scaler has 2 video outputs and initially i had one of them input to the mrx hdmi input 1. then the mrx output to my pj. that no longer works as i get the dropped signal so instead i put hdmi output 1 from the scaler directly into the pj and hdmi output 2 into hdmi in 1 from the mrx. i used to do this when 50.04 firmware was out and it didn't have proper passthrough. this worked fine for months and the only thing i was missing was OSD of volume and menu. but if i try to do the same thing no, i get that colorspace mismatch thing. its the strangest thing as the mrx output is not even connected. the scaler direct to the pj is perfect, no video issues. as soon as i plug one of the scaler outputs into the mrx, i get the green. i can't see how its possible that the mrx is screwing with the color if its only on an input.
post #7614 of 14608
Quote:
Originally Posted by sukumar View Post

Does anybody know how high the volumes goes? I tried until now -15. Is 0 means reference level with something?

What is the level that corresponds to typical movie theater loudness level?

I don't use an MRX, but in the D2v a -10dB volume setting corresponds to the level your ARC charts show as output (typically 75dB SPL) when fed "reference level" content input. PEAK levels can easily be 15dB higher.

The idea being that if you set up the typical 75dB solution used for home theater, you can, if you don't mind what it does to your hearing, raise that to the 85dB level used in movie theaters just by raising volume up to 0dB.

As to how high the volume will go, in the D2v there's a Setup setting that limits that. The MRX probably goes up to at least 0, but it may not go much above that since the designers know the efficiency and built in limitations of its power amp.
--Bob
post #7615 of 14608
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony A. View Post


yes, it looks like a colorspace mismatch as you describe. the thing is, all the settings have remained the same on both the scaler and mrx (set to passthrough). it has worked fine for almost a year now without a hiccup then suddenly after upgrading firmwares from 50.11 and up, i would get a dropped signal every five minutes. my scaler has 2 video outputs and initially i had one of them input to the mrx hdmi input 1. then the mrx output to my pj. that no longer works as i get the dropped signal so instead i put hdmi output 1 from the scaler directly into the pj and hdmi output 2 into hdmi in 1 from the mrx. i used to do this when 50.04 firmware was out and it didn't have proper passthrough. this worked fine for months and the only thing i was missing was OSD of volume and menu. but if i try to do the same thing no, i get that colorspace mismatch thing. its the strangest thing as the mrx output is not even connected. the scaler direct to the pj is perfect, no video issues. as soon as i plug one of the scaler outputs into the mrx, i get the green. i can't see how its possible that the mrx is screwing with the color if its only on an input.

The first thing to do is to eliminate cable issues. Just having moved the cables to try things may have produced a problem. Remember that HDMI is an end to end protocol so any cable in the path could be the cause.

Get a flashlight and examine each plug/socket for signs of pin damage. Make sure each plug is fully inserted STRAIGHT into the socket, without any tugging in any direction.

Also try 480p end to end and 1080i. If that works and 1080p does not, that too suggests a cable problem.

If you were using Auto format settings before, the new firmware may be happier with explicit video data format choices.

The HDMI handshake involves ALL the devices. If nothing else, adding the MRX changes the handshake timing.

Try changing the video configuration of the MRX even though you are not using its output. For example, turn off pass through.
--Bob
post #7616 of 14608
My incoming speakers for the "surround" are the in-ceiling variety. they will be mounted behind the main viewing /listening area on a slanted cathedral ceiling. the speakers are *aim-able*. any words of wisdom prior to my first round of running ARC with them? TIA...
post #7617 of 14608
Quote:
Originally Posted by hydrotex View Post

My incoming speakers for the "surround" are the in-ceiling variety. they will be mounted behind the main viewing /listening area on a slanted cathedral ceiling. the speakers are *aim-able*. any words of wisdom prior to my first round of running ARC with them? TIA...

If you have a 5.1 speaker configuration, wire those speakers to the SIDE surround outputs and leave the REAR surround outputs unused -- the Rears are for 7.1 speaker hookups. Do this regardless of how far back physically those speakers are located.

Typically, ceiling speaker installations recommend something in the form of damper material in the cavity space above each speaker. If the manual for your speakers recommend that, don't skip that step.

To the extent possible, point the two of them towards your chosen location for ARC mic position #1.

You don't need to do anything different in terms of making your ARC Measurements.
--Bob
post #7618 of 14608
We have used Dynamat in-ceiling or in-wall boxes with excellent results. They will retrofit existing holes and speakers.
TJG
post #7619 of 14608
Attachment 229357 Attachment 229358 Attachment 229359

I tried to find a good place for the new SVS PB 13+ sub moving it around the room using ARC Quick Measure. The best place was right behind my wife's fav. chair so I had to settle for second best. The room isn't the best for acoustics either.

Everything sounds great but I have a problem with the MRX selecting Listening Mode Presets. For 5.1 DD, DD Surround EX, 5.1 DTS, and DTS-ES the only modes I can choose are None, Dolby VS Wide,Dolby VS Reference,and Last Used. It seems like the only thing that works is Multi Channel PCM. I changed the Oppo 93 settings from LPCM to Bitstream and the MRX now shows 3/2 but the other settings described above remain the same. Any ideas?
LL
LL
LL
post #7620 of 14608
Quote:
Originally Posted by TJG55 View Post

We have used Dynamat in-ceiling or in-wall boxes with excellent results. They will retrofit existing holes and speakers.
TJG

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

If you have a 5.1 speaker configuration, wire those speakers to the SIDE surround outputs and leave the REAR surround outputs unused -- the Rears are for 7.1 speaker hookups. Do this regardless of how far back physically those speakers are located.

Typically, ceiling speaker installations recommend something in the form of damper material in the cavity space above each speaker. If the manual for your speakers recommend that, don't skip that step.

To the extent possible, point the two of them towards your chosen location for ARC mic position #1.

You don't need to do anything different in terms of making your ARC Measurements.

Can't find the owners manual on-line to see if they recommend any dampening material, so I'll have to wait till the units get here to find out. Thanks for the input, guys!
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