Anthem MRX Receivers - 300, 500, 700 Owners Thread & Tweaking Guide - Page 327

Originally Posted by Tigger!

8) Optional: You may want to hit the 'Advanced' button down under your "Advanced Settings" section and set your "Subwoofer High Pass Order" to "Flat" as it looks to be very capable below 20Hz. This is typically recommended only for subs that have low end protection and are capable below 20Hz.

Originally Posted by Tigger!

*Note: we are assuming that your seating postitions for both Music and Movies are the same. If they are different, then you would want to re-run ARC and select the option to do seperate Movie and Music Profiles. This will then run through two sets of microphone readings... one set for each profile and the unique seating locations of each profile.

Originally Posted by dglozic

When playing with Targets I have noticed that there are choices other than 'Auto' and 'Flat'. For example, a 3rd order filter would give you sub-20Hz protection but extend the flat region below 30Hz because it is fairly steep compared to the 'Auto' curve. This may be a compromise between 'Auto' and 'Flat'.



I always wondered - what situation would warrant separating Movie and Music Profiles? For example, I run 5.1 system for Movies, but for Music, I run my B&W 805s speakers full range and turn off all other speakers. However, I use the same 5 measurements I use for Movie profile. What would I do differently if I were to measure separately for 2-channel music?

Originally Posted by Tigger!

The issues you are describing are not familiar and we have worked through a number of interesting issues on this forum. I would talk with Anthem Support ASAP.

Also see if your dealer has a floor model or other unit you can try. It sounds like you may have issues specific to your MRX, not the MRX's in general. If you are going to play with different firmware releases, you might try v50.12. It has been the most stable (v50.19 is known to have issues).

I'm very concerned about the codec "dropping" in the middle of a show (i.e. not during a commercial break or when skipping). I'm also concerned that you state your HDMI connection is causing distortion to the picture. HDMI is digital, so their should be no distortion... perhaps digital noise or other issues such as picture droping out, those issues would be caused by poor signal quality and errors, but distortion is highly unlikely. Distortion is really more an analog issue. You are going from your Tivo to the MRX via HDMI and then from your MRX to the TV via HDMI, are you not?

Originally Posted by Tigger!


Hi Dan, small world in deed, I bought my MRX from Ensemble... and I likely drive by your old office everyday on my way to work in Burlington, MA.

On to your current question... .

Originally Posted by cacophonix

Where are people buying these receivers in Dallas area? I'm in the market for a decent receiver that has very good room eq function, and anthem is highly recommended.

Originally Posted by dglozic

When playing with Targets I have noticed that there are choices other than 'Auto' and 'Flat'. For example, a 3rd order filter would give you sub-20Hz protection but extend the flat region below 30Hz because it is fairly steep compared to the 'Auto' curve. This may be a compromise between 'Auto' and 'Flat'.



I always wondered - what situation would warrant separating Movie and Music Profiles? For example, I run 5.1 system for Movies, but for Music, I run my B&W 805s speakers full range and turn off all other speakers. However, I use the same 5 measurements I use for Movie profile. What would I do differently if I were to measure separately for 2-channel music?

Originally Posted by Shrike645

Someone with a screen may have the screen raised for 2 channel music which would require a separate set of measurements for music mode.

Originally Posted by Tigger!

Yes, you could use a few of the non auto options as well. However I will be the first to admit I can't advise much on those settings.



Another example... perhaps your room has a couch center stage where you and anyone elses gather for watching movies. However you also have a comfy chair off in a different different part of the room where you listen to music.

In this example you would stage the mics around your couch for the movie profile (and or what ever listening you do on the couch... the title "Movie" profile really has no meaning except a common use for it). Then for the second set of sweeps, the "Music" profile sweeps, you would stage the mics around your comfy chair.

This of course would help to provide the best listening experience at those two location for each of your activities.

Originally Posted by Shrike645

This second example is correct but of course the speaker distances will be incorrect. ARC also uses the first mic position for volume trims and again there is only the one set of these.

Originally Posted by usxplong

My power cord is short to get to the dedicated outlet I have. I am using an extension cord. Anyone has any susggestion about a good quality power cord for MRX700.
Much appreciated.

Originally Posted by lerxst

Hopefully Ensemble is alive and well, bought my first Pioneer Elite RPTV from them, as well as all my Meridian gear. That's also where I first heard Aerial speakers, including the CC5 and I've been lusting after an Aerial setup ever since...

Stereo Design in SD reminds me a lot of Ensemble, good guys.

In Nashua, I worked at 1Tara Blvd, just in front of the Radisson. I also used to live in Burlington, when I worked in Billerica off Concord Rd (Wellfleet Communications/Bay Networks/Nortel).

Back to Anthem talk...

I'll follow your advice on experimenting with different targets, your guidance makes sense to me.

I have to say that I'm very impressed with the MRX-300 performance so far! In all seriousness, I think it's the best sound I've ever achieved. Really staggering to me. It's surprising to me how well the baby MRX drives my B&W's, almost makes me think I don't need an external amp, though I will probably still opt to go that way. It just won't be an urgent need.

I'll post some updated charts later this evening.

Regards,

Dan

Originally Posted by lerxst

Based on the helpful advice from Tigger! I've gone back through ARC and played around a bit more with different targets and different setups for Movie and Music.

For the Movie config, I used Auto Detect to allow ARC to select all of the settings and the only change I made was in the Advanced Menu where I set the subwoofer to Flat.

For the Music config, I turned off all speakers except for the Front L/R and set the frequency target to 30Hz.

Levels remained as before: 0 / +2 / 0 / -2 / -1 / +1

Updated screen captures attached, including the graphs for the Music setup.

Dan

Originally Posted by Tigger!

Any high amperage extension cord (such as say the ones sold for appliances that draw a lot of current) should work fine. No need to spend a lot of money on fancy power cords... After all, the wires in your wall aren't that fancy

Originally Posted by dean-l

So remember I loaded 50.22 to my 700 and I thought the "center channel" in my headphones moved to the right a little.

So I re-loaded 50.19 and it didn't change it back.

So I'm thinking am I nuts?
Was it always that way?

But i used my headphones on my computer and it was fine, so it's gotta be the receiver.

SO I decided to reset the receiver, which was 50.19 anyway, and boom - voices are back in the middle again. I'm still not sure what happened.

With Dolby headphone I don't think you can just move the "balance" control -- there isn't one. Plus, unlike an old fashioned receiver that just pumps headphones out as stereo 2 channel, I assume DH actually uses the five channels and downscales it to 2 but uses technology to give some illusion of five. At least, that's what it's supposed to do. So IMO the update (50.22) somewhere along the way, moved that "center channel" over to the right a notch or two in dolby headphone. The basic left/right channel seemed balanced to me.

I did loose the better codec holds during TiVo skips again with 50.19.

Seems like a win one loose one. I'll contact Anthem tomorrow, maybe they can fix it before they release 50.22 or I can manually get around it.

Originally Posted by Therien

Hey everyone!

First time writer, long time reader Excuse me for my grammar - english is not my native..

Anyway, I am now the happy owner of an MRX 700 and what a friggin amp! I am addicted! I used to run a NAD T747 on a NAD T955 power amp, and there really is no reason to compare the two.. The Anthem is from another planet - worth every penny. On the speaker front I am in the process of converting to the MKSound 950 THX package - im still missing the sub and sides/surrounds.. Place holders are the surrounds from the MK 750 set and a B&W sub from the good looking CM series. Yes - 5.1

As most folk are, im kinda overwhelmed by the ARC and the ammount of information there is to "grasp".. So, I hope can borrow some of your expertise

These are my levels according to ARC:

Front left -1
center -2
Front right -1
Sur right +3
Sur left +3
Sub 0

Crossover 80 Hz on all of em.. Which brings me to another question.. THX speakers are designed to roll off at 80 HZ as I understand it(?) .. Shouldent I be aiming for 80 Hz in this case? You see, my first ARC cal was a "quick" one, and that wanted me to go for 100 Hz on center and 120 Hz on the Surrounds.. I listend to that for a while, and changed it to 80 Hz - felt it as an improvement.. A thicker more blended sound..

This beeing my first post ever on AVS, I really hope my charts are attached!

Anyway, thanks for a great read.. I still got a long way to go, but I'll get there.

Thanks in advance.

Originally Posted by dean-l

Well, I figured out the weird headphone deal. When you have different front speaker distances it screws up dolby headphone and moves the "center channel/voices" around, adds echo, etc. So if all your front speakers are set to 12 ft and you change the front left to 11 ft in moves the center channel/voices to the left; if you change front left to 13 it moves center channel/voices to the right. Obviously, since your head is in the middle of the headphones speaker distances should be dropped from the equation.

I sent Anthem this and my TiVo/codec right channel squeal/whistle and got a new 50.23 update link which didn't help.

I'm currently woking with Anthem on the Speaker distance/headphone deal over E-mail they were unaware of it.

But I have more pressing issues now. I've got growing hiss out every channel and a gurgling hiss out the left rear surround channel. If I swap speakers the gurgle moves with it, TiVo, Oppo, playing or paused, TV off......tried it all.

Plus, some in and out buzz noises from the receiver rear as well. Dealer wants it out of here to avoid damage. So, I guess I'm out of HERE until I get a new one.

Thanks for the help Tigger! I hope to have better posts with ARC charts and such next time.

Originally Posted by Tigger!

Welcome Therien!

Your english seems excellent, no worries! It is up to the job and at least equal to many of us on here (I for one am a terrible speller ).

Looking at your levels, they look excellent.

Looking at you graphs, I can see why ARC set your cutoffs a bit higher. Your center and left surround appear to be struggling at the lower end. ARC has attempted to fill the holes down there but can't quite do it. This is why it is opting for a higher cutoff. If you can perhaps reposition the left surround closer to a wall, you may pickup some boundary gain that will help fill in the lower end. In fact your fronts would also benefit from a little boundary gain, particularly the front Left (are your lefts further from the walls than your right speakers)? If you can move your speakers a little closer to a wall, the boundary gain may help fill in the low end for you.

Looking at your sub, it looks very capable, however in its current location it appears to a bit wild. It also may have a filter or two still engaged. If possible, set your low pass filter to bypass or as high as it will go (probably like 180Hz). If there is a high pass filter, it also should be set to bypass or as low as it will go (possibly something like 20Hz or 15Hz?).

I would use "Quick Measure" in ARC to try moving your sub and seeing if you can get the response to flatten out and extend a big higher. For a picture of a really nice flat sub, see Jayrays graph in the FAQ post at the start of the thread (link in my signature as well).

Let us know what moving the main speakers does and how you succeed with the sub. Post up your charts as you are playing if you want us to provide some feedback. Also post up your targets window for us.

Originally Posted by ThePrisoner

I have some pics of the current spot my subwoofer is in and my current ARC graphs. I'am having trouble fine tuning sub placement. I can't seem to get a smoother graph using quick measure. I was hoping someone could give me some tips in case I didn't think of it in different placement spots. The sub is currently 9" from the wall. I changed my target curve for subwoofer from 80Hz to 100Hz but the graph looked worse so I went back to default of 80Hz.

Originally Posted by Shrike645

I think you will find that you have it too close to the wall/corner. the large peak in the low end is boundary gain from the corner. If you can lower that by moving it out along a wall then the overall curve will flatten out and I'm sure it will get the cutoff closer to the ideal 120.

Originally Posted by ThePrisoner

The sub is 36" from the front wall of the room. In the pic you can see my radiator cover, I have 6" left to move the sub down that wall. Do you think moving it out farther from wall in current pic would help?

Originally Posted by Therien

Hey Tigger

Your response comepletely blew me away! All I got is "WOW"!

Yes you are absolutely right. My left speakers are futher from the wall. I've attached a crude "paint" of my room (The scale is somewhat off..) - the room you just described It's gonna be pretty hard moving the rear left, as it is mounted in the wall.. Allso im moving in a few months to a much more suitable room - tbh i can't be bothered at this point But I will definatly try to find a new spot for the sub - which you say is a tad wild, which it is.. I have had alot of trouble locating it, I placed it where I could here it the most - though this was before ARC.. I will try pushing it into the corner and moving the right front away from the wall..

About the sub.. I am positive that it is set to bypass.. Hmm, feel like a noob..

Thanks for the awesome feedback, I will now go work with your suggestions! I'll post some new graphs when this is done, hopefully I can get that sub under control.

Cheers!

Originally Posted by ThePrisoner

I have some pics of the current spot my subwoofer is in and my current ARC graphs. I'am having trouble fine tuning sub placement. I can't seem to get a smoother graph using quick measure. I was hoping someone could give me some tips in case I didn't think of it in different placement spots. The sub is currently 9" from the wall. I changed my target curve for subwoofer from 80Hz to 100Hz but the graph looked worse so I went back to default of 80Hz.

Originally Posted by Shrike645

I think you will find that you have it too close to the wall/corner. the large peak in the low end is boundary gain from the corner. If you can lower that by moving it out along a wall then the overall curve will flatten out and I'm sure it will get the cutoff closer to the ideal 120.

Originally Posted by ThePrisoner

The sub is 36" from the front wall of the room. In the pic you can see my radiator cover, I have 6" left to move the sub down that wall. Do you think moving it out farther from wall in current pic would help?

Originally Posted by eric-t

Are you locked into that one spot for placement? If not, then I would experiment with placement in your room and find the sweet spot..