AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Receivers, Amps, and Processors › Anthem MRX Receivers - 300, 500, 700 Owners Thread & Tweaking Guide
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Anthem MRX Receivers - 300, 500, 700 Owners Thread & Tweaking Guide - Page 328

post #9811 of 14613
I read somewhere that the power cord comes with MRX is good enough for surge protection. Do I need a surge protector with my MRX?
Thanks in advance.
post #9812 of 14613
Quote:
Originally Posted by usxplong View Post

I read somewhere that the power cord comes with MRX is good enough for surge protection. Do I need a surge protector with my MRX?
Thanks in advance.

The power cord that comes with the MRX is simply two good old fashion copper wires (as it should be). It will not provide any protection against surges or lighting. The MRX's power supply in all three models seems to be well built and will do a very nice job of dealing with most noise and line conditioning (within reason)... however if you are trying to protect against lighting or really big surges, you would want at least a decent surge protector between the wall outlet and your MRX's power cord.
post #9813 of 14613
Quote:
Originally Posted by usxplong View Post

I read somewhere that the power cord comes with MRX is good enough for surge protection. Do I need a surge protector with my MRX?
Thanks in advance.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigger! View Post

The power cord that comes with the MRX is simply two good old fashion copper wires (as it should be). It will not provide any protection against surges or lighting. The MRX's power supply in all three models seems to be well built and will do a very nice job of dealing with most noise and line conditioning (within reason)... however if you are trying to protect against lighting or really big surges, you would want at least a decent surge protector between the wall outlet and your MRX's power cord.

No matter how good of a surge protector you have it will not protect from a direct or near by hit. The best preventative is to unplug your equipment if storms are forecasted.
post #9814 of 14613
Thanks Tigger and eric-t. Since I need an extension cord, I thought I should get a surge protector.
post #9815 of 14613
Quote:
Originally Posted by usxplong View Post

Thanks Tigger and eric-t. Since I need an extension cord, I thought I should get a surge protector.

How long of a cord do you need?

6ft
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
10ft
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
15ft
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
25ft
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
post #9816 of 14613
Quote:
Originally Posted by eric-t View Post

Are you locked into that one spot for placement? If not, then I would experiment with placement in your room and find the sweet spot..

I'm locked at that spot. Looks like I have to live with what I got. Or get a smaller sub.
post #9817 of 14613
I seem to be a little ARC challenged as well.

I am running Def Tech BP7006 tower fronts and a large C/L/R 2500 Center all with built-in powered Subs. My rears are Def Tech SM350's.

My MRX 700 is setup as a 5.0 system (no sub) and ARC setup my speakers as follows:

Fronts - Large
Center - Small 60hz
Rears - Small 80hz

My question is are you allowed to adjust the settings slightly after you run ARC without using the PC? Or will this ruin all of the ARC settings?

I would like just a little more bass out of the fronts. Should I just crank up the subs in the fronts or is there a way I can increase the bass around 2db through the MRX. I am not using the LFE connection on the fronts to the MRX. The subs in the Def Tech's are plenty powerful. I had a separate sub before that didn't put out as much bass as what the front's are capable of.

Overall I am very pleased with the sound after running ARC. I just want to tweak it a little.
post #9818 of 14613
post #9819 of 14613
Quote:
Originally Posted by gjnockie View Post

I seem to be a little ARC challenged as well.

I am running Def Tech BP7006 tower fronts and a large C/L/R 2500 Center all with built-in powered Subs. My rears are Def Tech SM350's.

My MRX 700 is setup as a 5.0 system (no sub) and ARC setup my speakers as follows:

Fronts - Large
Center - Small 60hz
Rears - Small 80hz

My question is are you allowed to adjust the settings slightly after you run ARC without using the PC? Or will this ruin all of the ARC settings?

I would like just a little more bass out of the fronts. Should I just crank up the subs in the fronts or is there a way I can increase the bass around 2db through the MRX. I am not using the LFE connection on the fronts to the MRX. The subs in the Def Tech's are plenty powerful. I had a separate sub before that didn't put out as much bass as what the front's are capable of.

Overall I am very pleased with the sound after running ARC. I just want to tweak it a little.

You don't really want to change the crossovers or levels after you upload ARC. But there maybe more that can be done with ARC. Can you upload your Speaker Graphs, Targets window and Calibration Levels from the MRX Speaker Setup Menu.

We can likely look at what is going on and make some suggestions like changing the cutoff of your fronts and adjusting your room gain that may make a big difference in your low end.

Checkout the FAQ post (link in my signature). The MRX Quick Setup Guide has help on capturing your graphs and targets window.
post #9820 of 14613
Quote:
Originally Posted by eric-t View Post

No matter how good of a surge protector you have it will not protect from a direct or near by hit. The best preventative is to unplug your equipment if storms are forecasted.

+1, totally agree... however a good surge protector is better than nothing, especially if the lightning strike is not a direct hit and you are not home to unplug your MRX when the storm comes through.. hey, vacations happen ya know lol
post #9821 of 14613
hey guys

I have noticed a flutter, flapping or farting type sound out of my left speaker (studio 60s). I have tried to determine which driver but cann't seem to work this out. Also have noticed it happens with movies and not music. I am a little worried the speaker is blown but i didn't think i would have pushed them anywhere near the levels that would be needed to do this. I enjoy loud but not that loud. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions. Is there a way to test if it's blown. Can a blown speaker only be noticable on certain frequencies (as it appears this is happening) or will it be across a wide range of frequencies. Could it be something in the actual speaker is loose and causing this?

Didn't know this was the right place to pose but the speakers are only 3 months old and am a little worried and i know there are knowledgeable people in this forum. I will do some more listening over the weekend to try and isolate it more but any guidance would be appreciated.

Cheers
Heath
post #9822 of 14613
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ouiff View Post

hey guys

I have noticed a flutter, flapping or farting type sound out of my left speaker (studio 60s). I have tried to determine which driver but cann't seem to work this out. Also have noticed it happens with movies and not music. I am a little worried the speaker is blown but i didn't think i would have pushed them anywhere near the levels that would be needed to do this. I enjoy loud but not that loud. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions. Is there a way to test if it's blown. Can a blown speaker only be noticable on certain frequencies (as it appears this is happening) or will it be across a wide range of frequencies. Could it be something in the actual speaker is loose and causing this?

Didn't know this was the right place to pose but the speakers are only 3 months old and am a little worried and i know there are knowledgeable people in this forum. I will do some more listening over the weekend to try and isolate it more but any guidance would be appreciated.

Cheers
Heath

You might have better luck posting in the "Speaker" section under the "Paradigm Owners " thread.
post #9823 of 14613
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigger! View Post

98% of the time, you really cant force the sub to go any higher than what ARC pics... there are exceptions, but I don't think what we are seeing is one of them We really need to find a place in the room where the sub is happy and naturally hits 120, which this sub looks very capable of doing.



+1 Oh, yea



I would try moving it out from the side wall, the wall that is next to the radiator. Don't worry about blocking your front speaker (I think)... if the shadows in the grill cloth of your speaker are correct, your speakers are all up much higher in that speaker cabinet and the grill cloth is only covering the front of the cabinet down below. Of course if there is a port down at the bottom of that cabinet, make sure you leave it at least 6-8 inches of breathing room for the port.

I'd try and get the speaker at least 12-16 inches off of that side wall.

You can also play with quick measure and see if simply rotating the sub 45 or 90 degrees makes a difference.



This is of course also a great thought... is there another location in the room you can try the sub.

I been moving my sub around for at least 40min. using quick measure. That dip is not getting anywhere near better. I pulled it out even 18", I could never leave it even if it was perfect because it was basically almost in the middle of the room. Looks like I'm stuck at 80Hz. I was thinking of trying another sub out from my dealer, maybe smaller would help? I have no other place for the sub, my living room is small.
post #9824 of 14613
Well, I didn't give up quite yet. Here is what I got after about 3hrs of pulling my hair out and sweating my ass off. It took 6 attempts to upload ARC, had to unplug MRX for a few minutes than upload w, I do use the Keyspent smooth. Don't know what happpened. I'm open for more suggestions and tweaks.
LL
LL
LL
post #9825 of 14613
Quick question - when watching satellite through my dvr, the resolution is noted to be 480i on my front panel. Is this only the quality of the signal coming in or does it also indicate the resolution being sent to the display. My TV is 1080p so I assume the processor is up-scaling the source. I have resolution for satellite set to auto. Should I be seeing the signal resolution as 1080p or the 480i which I assume is source. Do I have this properly set-up?
post #9826 of 14613
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePrisoner View Post

Well, I didn't give up quite yet. Here is what I got after about 3hrs of pulling my hair out and sweating my ass off. It took 6 attempts to upload ARC, had to unplug MRX for a few minutes than upload w, I do use the Keyspent smooth. Don't know what happpened. I'm open for more suggestions and tweaks.

That looks way better. And it hit 120 naturally! (though I'm a little surprised ARC went there as your graph is still pretty rough on the higher end)

You did manage to bring the peak down some and it looks like it worked. It is still a big hill and you still have a sharp dip that ARC is struggling with, but it looks somewhat better..

How does it sound?

Have you tried blocking the subs port at all?
post #9827 of 14613
Quote:
Originally Posted by mwinely View Post

Quick question - when watching satellite through my dvr, the resolution is noted to be 480i on my front panel. Is this only the quality of the signal coming in or does it also indicate the resolution being sent to the display. My TV is 1080p so I assume the processor is up-scaling the source. I have resolution for satellite set to auto. Should I be seeing the signal resolution as 1080p or the 480i which I assume is source. Do I have this properly set-up?

The resolution dispayed on the MRX should be the incomming signal. If you hit your info button a few times you should see the outgoing resolution.

I'm guessing your satelite is on a standard def station, hence the 480i signal? Try a high def station and see what it says.
post #9828 of 14613
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigger! View Post

That looks way better. And it hit 120 naturally! (though I'm a little surprised ARC went there as your graph is still pretty rough on the higher end)

You did manage to bring the peak down some and it looks like it worked. It is still a big hill and you still have a sharp dip that ARC is struggling with, but it looks somewhat better..

How does it sound?

Have you tried blocking the subs port at all?



What could I use to block the ports? The sub is a Paradigm DSP-3400, it did not come with plugs. I listened to some cd's and just watched scenes from The Incredible Hulk blu-ray and the bass seems way better. Did I have a hole in the LFE before according to my previous graph?
post #9829 of 14613
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePrisoner View Post

What could I use to block the ports? The sub is a Paradigm DSP-3400, it did not come with plugs. I listened to some cd's and just watched scenes from The Incredible Hulk blu-ray and the bass seems way better. Did I have a hole in the LFE before according to my previous graph?

Looking at both your graphs, interestingly, it doesn't look like you actually knocked the peak down any... but you did bring up a couple of dips in the higher end... so that is probably what helped ARC out.

It looks like you had a dip in the same place at about 60Hz in both graphs, however you first graph had a wider deep dip around 80-100Hz. That dip in your new position seems to have been reduced by 2/3s of what it was.

Did you try the sub at a 45 degree angle or a 90 degree angle (facing into the room)? Just curious.

As for blocking the port, you could try something like some socks or a towel.
post #9830 of 14613
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigger! View Post

Looking at both your graphs, interestingly, it doesn't look like you actually knocked the peak down any... but you did bring up a couple of dips in the higher end... so that is probably what helped ARC out.

It looks like you had a dip in the same place at about 60Hz in both graphs, however you first graph had a wider deep dip around 80-100Hz. That dip in your new position seems to have been reduced by 2/3s of what it was.

Did you try the sub at a 45 degree angle or a 90 degree angle (facing into the room)? Just curious.

As for blocking the port, you could try something like some socks or a towel.

The sub is now at a 45 degree angle, I do have room to pull it out some more at the angle. Should I listen with the the port blocked or measure again with port blocked. The sub has two ports on the front. How many should be blocked?
post #9831 of 14613
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensmith48 View Post

You might have better luck posting in the "Speaker" section under the "Paradigm Owners " thread.

great suggestion, will do. Thank you.
post #9832 of 14613
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePrisoner View Post

The sub is now at a 45 degree angle, I do have room to pull it out some more at the angle. Should I listen with the the port blocked or measure again with port blocked. The sub has two ports on the front. How many should be blocked?

If you were going to try playing some more, you would want to measure with "Quick Measure". Pulling it out further may help, again your low end mountain looks like room gain and that is usually helped by distance from all surrounding walls.

Interesting that the 45 degree helped, I was interested to see if it would. As for the ports, I'm not an expert on that question... perhaps someone else will have more experience on that, I simply know that restricting the ports can sometimes tame the low end a bit.

Again you can always test it with "Quick Measure"... get a big towel and you can plug one side, then pull it around and plug the other side at the same time and then unplug the first side and see what affect all three positions have!

I'm assuming the two ports are tuned to affect different frequency ranges more, so one make have more dramatic impact on one set of frequencies and the other on a different set. But again, I'm not an expert on this one...
post #9833 of 14613
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePrisoner View Post

The sub is now at a 45 degree angle, I do have room to pull it out some more at the angle. Should I listen with the the port blocked or measure again with port blocked. The sub has two ports on the front. How many should be blocked?

Of course, you said it sounds a lot better... it maybe time to sit back and just enjoy... at least for today.
post #9834 of 14613
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigger! View Post

Of course, you said it sounds a lot better... it maybe time to sit back and just enjoy... at least for today.

It does sound better. From what you've seen from before and after with my graphs, would you say I'm in the right direction? I'm happy I got 120Hz from positioning.
post #9835 of 14613
Well just run ARC and the improvement is huge.
These are my charts the only thing is it has set my centre to 120hz even though front and surrounds are smaller and set to 80hz,running Monitor Audio Apex. It has crossed sub MJ Acoustics Ref mk3,at 120hz.
FL+1
C-1
FR+1
SR-2
SL-2
SUB 0

Attachment 241361



Attachment 241363

Thanks for any feed back
LL
LL
LL
post #9836 of 14613
Quote:
Originally Posted by richmagnus View Post

Well just run ARC and the improvement is huge.
These are my charts the only thing is it has set my centre to 120hz even though front and surrounds are smaller and set to 80hz,running Monitor Audio Apex. It has crossed sub MJ Acoustics Ref mk3,at 120hz.
FL+1
C-1
FR+1
SR-2
SL-2
SUB 0

Attachment 241361



Attachment 241363

Thanks for any feed back

Your charts look very good. The reason ARC set your center channel's (cc) cutoff to 120 Hz is probably because of the dip that you have between 50 Hz and 100 Hz. If you have your cc on a stand or in a cabinet, make sure the front of your cc is near the very edge of the stand or cabinet. With a cc set that high may cause voices to be sent to your sub which is something that you don't want to have happen. If you can eliminate and/or reduce that dip, then I'm sure ARC will set a lower cutoff for your cc. Also, please post your Targets View.
post #9837 of 14613
Thanks ninja12. I will post targets tomorrow as late here in the UK!!
My centre sits on a stone fire place mantelpiece below a wall mounted LCD.
I have pulled the centre forward by about 3mm and that's all I can do. So far no voices coming through the sub that I am aware of. I will re run ARC next week when the house is child free. I must say that ARC and the MRX 300 has transformed my system blowing away the ARCAM AVR 500 it replaced. The amp is really powerful too I thought I would need a seperate power amp but not so sure now!!!
post #9838 of 14613
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigger! View Post

You don't really want to change the crossovers or levels after you upload ARC. But there maybe more that can be done with ARC. Can you upload your Speaker Graphs, Targets window and Calibration Levels from the MRX Speaker Setup Menu.

We can likely look at what is going on and make some suggestions like changing the cutoff of your fronts and adjusting your room gain that may make a big difference in your low end.

Checkout the FAQ post (link in my signature). The MRX Quick Setup Guide has help on capturing your graphs and targets window.

Thanks for the help.

Here are my measurements.
LL
LL
post #9839 of 14613
Quote:
Originally Posted by gjnockie View Post

Thanks for the help.

Here are my measurements.

No problem. You didn't post your Speaker Levels or your Targets window... so I'm still having to do a lot of guess work.

However, I would suggest setting your cutoff for your fronts at 40 as well as your center. Your surounds look good where they are.

Also, really guessing here... but is your Room Gain set at about 2?

If so, you might try changing it to around 3 or 3.5.

You can make these changes without re-running ARC, you simply need to open up your current ARC Calibration file in ARC in Manual mode. Go to your targets window, make the changes, hit 'ok', then hit 'calculate' to re-calculate your curves. Then hit 'upload'.

You might try the cutoff changes first, see if you like them. If you still feel the base is lacking, then try adjusting your room gain up +1 or +1.5, but don't go past 4.

Please post up your charts, target window and levels after you re-calculate so we can see where things are at
post #9840 of 14613
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePrisoner View Post

It does sound better. From what you've seen from before and after with my graphs, would you say I'm in the right direction? I'm happy I got 120Hz from positioning.

Yes, things are improving (you should know that... your graph looks flatter and ARC naturally hit 120 ).

Now if you can get the hill to drop some, that would be great. Pulling the sub out so it is 18 inches from the side wall would probably help some, if you still want to try more options.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Receivers, Amps, and Processors
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Receivers, Amps, and Processors › Anthem MRX Receivers - 300, 500, 700 Owners Thread & Tweaking Guide