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Anthem MRX Receivers - 300, 500, 700 Owners Thread & Tweaking Guide - Page 333

post #9961 of 14609
Quote:
Originally Posted by Therien View Post

... Anyone know how much time Anthem usually takes to respond?

Thanks again.

I've only called them once, and they took a couple of hours. I've sent emails as well and usually they are answered in about 24 hours.
post #9962 of 14609
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigger! View Post

Your Front Right midrange looks ok in the graphs. Could it be the rattling you are hearing is the stripped screw or something else that is loose?

Your sub is what I would focus on. It appears you have at least a lowpass filter set and possibly a high pass as well. Set all of your filters to bypass if you can, if that is not an option, set your low pass as high as it will go (probably something like 180Hz) and your high pass as low as it will go (possibly something like 20Hz or 30Hz possibly even something like 15Hz).

Once you do this, turn down your subs level just slightly, like 5%.

Then re-run ARC and post up your new charts, targets and levels

Tigger, please correct me if I am wrong, but, I think you meant to say to turn up the sub slightly instead of turn down the sub so ARC will not have to apply a +5 boost.

My comment is for your reply to this post: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post21832024
post #9963 of 14609
Had my first lockup on 50.22 beta last weekend, again was when switching from blu-ray to cable inputs. Reported to Anthem. No other problems noted with this beta.
post #9964 of 14609
Quote:
Originally Posted by saeyedoc View Post

Had my first lockup on 50.22 beta last weekend, again was when switching from blu-ray to cable inputs. Reported to Anthem. No other problems noted with this beta.

Talk about quick responses, I've already received the link to 50.23 beta which is supposed to fix the lockup, will try tomorrow or this weekend.
post #9965 of 14609
Quote:
Originally Posted by saeyedoc View Post

Talk about quick responses, I've already received the link to 50.23 beta which is supposed to fix the lockup, will try tomorrow or this weekend.

That's the version I mentioned earlier that fixes the lockups.
John
post #9966 of 14609
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigger! View Post

What does the "Output Control" do? Not familiar with that control... is that your "Level/Volume" control?

You stated before that your sub level is only turned up a 1/4 of the way. Yet your sub is way to loud. As such I would not recommended trying to get anymore boundary gain. I would actually try the opposit, lets try pulling the sub away from one wall at least 18 inches and the other wall at least 24 and see what you get.

You may find that the sub flattens out a bit and actually performs better without all the boundary gain. I also expect your subs levels will be lower without all the boundary gain and that would be a good thing as well.


It's "Output level" or volume, sorry. I've got it at about 10 o'clock, 'cause I forgot to 12 it. I will however experiment with at 12 and "maybe" that'll expand it's range a little. We'll see.

I'll try your ideas, after I get the FR fixed up.

Luckily Canton's American Office is in Minneapolis so I'm stopping down there tomorrow, so we'll know if the bad midrange is just vibrating or actually bad.

Couple question/ideas...

Since the .1 sub channel goes up to 120 should I change it to that, just to max the potential? After all, with the setting at 100 I loose "some" 100-120, right?

When I had a Marantz SR5006 for a few days I ran Audyssey XT and it set the fronts and center to large. Thoughts? The FR, FL are just as good as the sub anyway, right?

If you change things in bass mgmt. should you run ARC again?


Thanks, I appreciate the input.
post #9967 of 14609
Hi guys, since I last posted my graphs, I have borrowed/acquired a different sub. I have rerun ARC but I don't think my calibration was ideal and feel I need to run it again but wanted some input to make sure I am on the right track before I do.

C. +3
LF. 0
RF. 0
LS. -2
RS. -1
RR. -1
LR. -1
Sub. +3
LL
LL
LL
post #9968 of 14609
Just to clarify, I am really happy with the sound, just think there may have been some noise and possibly an obstruction during calibration.
post #9969 of 14609
Hello All,
Excuse if I missed this but I just noticed on Anthem Web page that Software v50.23 was released last week. Has anybody had any issues with this version?
post #9970 of 14609
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeffeMusic View Post

Hello All,
Excuse if I missed this but I just noticed on Anthem Web page that Software v50.23 was released last week. Has anybody had any issues with this version?

That's today.


ANTHEM MRX 300/500/700 SOFTWARE UPDATES

Do I need to load previous versions prior to loading this no?

A: No.

Are previous changes included in the latest update?

A: Yes.

VERY IMPORTANT if you're using a laptop:

Check your computer's power management settings to ensure that the software update does not get interrupted.

If you're using a USB to serial adapter:

1. It must be one that supports two stop bits ≠ check with adapter manufacturer. Keyspan USA-19HS is strongly recommended and can be purchased from tech@anthemav.com.

2. Check the adapter manufacturerÃ*s website for the latest driver. If a message warns that the driver is not Windows-certified as itÃ*s about to be installed, do not use the adapter. Some "budget" adapters load bad data into the processor, possibly causing its operation to freeze.

3. The virtual port must be assigned to COM1-COM6. If the processor software installer cannot locate the processor, use your adapterÃ*s port manager to check the setting.

-------------------

MAIN UPDATE:

1. Extract the zipped folder to desktop.

2. Connect computer to MRX serial port and turn power on.

3. Run MRX500_700.exe - be sure it is the correct version according to 120V (USA) or 230V (EUR/AUS). The status bar should show progress instantly. Programming takes around 10 minutes - do not interrupt an installation in progress. If installation does not start, close the programmer, make sure MRX is powered on, check connection, and run program again.

----------------------------

CHANGE LIST

v50.23 main update:

1. Fix for ARC-related distortion when using full range speakers and no subwoofer.
2. Fix for issue introduced in v50.19 where selecting certain HDMI sources may result in unit lockup.
post #9971 of 14609
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeffeMusic View Post

Hello All,
Excuse if I missed this but I just noticed on Anthem Web page that Software v50.23 was released last week. Has anybody had any issues with this version?

They release it today, wasn't there earlier.
post #9972 of 14609
Quote:
Originally Posted by Perrottp View Post

They release it today, wasn't there earlier.

The beta of the same number was available earlier, this is now the official version.
John
post #9973 of 14609
Quote:
Originally Posted by Perrottp View Post

They release it today, wasn't there earlier.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HeffeMusic View Post

Hello All,
Excuse if I missed this but I just noticed on Anthem Web page that Software v50.23 was released last week. Has anybody had any issues with this version?

I've been using v50.22 for a couple of weeks now without any issues. Just downloaded v50.23 and I'll install later.
post #9974 of 14609
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kinolau View Post


I've been using v50.22 for a couple of weeks now without any issues. Just downloaded v50.23 and I'll install later.

50.23 is the one most should use.
John
post #9975 of 14609
My very first ARC issue. I've been using FW v50.22 with my 500 and just downloaded and installed ARC v3.02 onto my laptop yesterday. I was scrambling to run some new measurements because I had somebody coming to listen to my fronts with the possibility of buying them. I wanted to drop the sub out of the configuration and load new settings with the low end directed to the fronts. Long story short...I couldn't get ARC to recognize the mic no matter what I did. I lost all my previous ARC files when I reformatted my pc. But I rebooted the pc after the install, tried both auto and manual measurement options, tried loading the program with and without the mic plugged in, and I kept getting the same error that there was no mic detected. The only thing I haven't done yet is uninstall 3.02 and load 3.0 from the cd.

I just wanted to check if anybody ran into any issues with the new ARC version?

Thanks,

Walt
post #9976 of 14609
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kinolau View Post

My very first ARC issue. I've been using FW v50.22 with my 500 and just downloaded and installed ARC v3.02 onto my laptop yesterday. I was scrambling to run some new measurements because I had somebody coming to listen to my fronts with the possibility of buying them. I wanted to drop the sub out of the configuration and load new settings with the low end directed to the fronts. Long story short...I couldn't get ARC to recognize the mic no matter what I did. I lost all my previous ARC files when I reformatted my pc. But I rebooted the pc after the install, tried both auto and manual measurement options, tried loading the program with and without the mic plugged in, and I kept getting the same error that there was no mic detected. The only thing I haven't done yet is uninstall 3.02 and load 3.0 from the cd.

I just wanted to check if anybody ran into any issues with the new ARC version?

Thanks,

Walt

If you reformatted your PC did you remember to copy the mic calibration files from the cd back into the anthem directory?
post #9977 of 14609
Quote:
Originally Posted by ninja12 View Post

Tigger, please correct me if I am wrong, but, I think you meant to say to turn up the sub slightly instead of turn down the sub so ARC will not have to apply a +5 boost.

My comment is for your reply to this post: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post21832024

Yes, Ninja12 is correct I've corrected my post

Should be just nodged up a bit if running ARC again. though +5 is not bad so only worth doing if you are doing the other changes suggested!

Thanks Ninja12!
post #9978 of 14609
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharp10 View Post

Hi guys, since I last posted my graphs, I have borrowed/acquired a different sub. I have rerun ARC but I don't think my calibration was ideal and feel I need to run it again but wanted some input to make sure I am on the right track before I do.

C. +3
LF. 0
RF. 0
LS. -2
RS. -1
RR. -1
LR. -1
Sub. +3

They aren't bad but your fronts and your sub look like they are against the wall and have too much boundary gain. If you can move them out the bottom end should come down into place. The peak that the wall is giving your sub is probably stopping RC from setting the cutoff higher to 120 like we usually like to see.
post #9979 of 14609
Quote:
Originally Posted by dean-l View Post

It's "Output level" or volume, sorry. I've got it at about 10 o'clock, 'cause I forgot to 12 it. I will however experiment with at 12 and "maybe" that'll expand it's range a little. We'll see.

I'll try your ideas, after I get the FR fixed up.

Luckily Canton's American Office is in Minneapolis so I'm stopping down there tomorrow, so we'll know if the bad midrange is just vibrating or actually bad.

Couple question/ideas...

Since the .1 sub channel goes up to 120 should I change it to that, just to max the potential? After all, with the setting at 100 I loose "some" 100-120, right?

When I had a Marantz SR5006 for a few days I ran Audyssey XT and it set the fronts and center to large. Thoughts? The FR, FL are just as good as the sub anyway, right?

If you change things in bass mgmt. should you run ARC again?


Thanks, I appreciate the input.

Dean-l,

My appoligies... I was partly confusing your posts with another set of users posts... I've corrected my last couple of posts for you. Basically all advices still applies except the sub level in your case should be turned up, instead of down

Sorry for the confusion!

With regards to your questions above, you do not want to change anything in "Bass Management" after ARC runs. It will set everything for you to where it should be (the exception are speaker distances which you should set manualy either before or after you run ARC, it does not matter when you set them).

Do not change the 'Cutoff' of your sub in the Targets window of ARC to 120, ARC should see it get to 120 naturally. If you have an option to change something on your sub from 100 to 120... or better yet 100 to an even higher number, go as high as you can with that number. You will then need to re-run ARC
post #9980 of 14609
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrike645 View Post

If you reformatted your PC did you remember to copy the mic calibration files from the cd back into the anthem directory?

+1 And someone else was having issues with a MAC not seeing the MIC. Same may apply to that user... if you did not copy over the mic calibration file from the origional CD that could be why the MAC is not seeing the mic.
post #9981 of 14609
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrike645 View Post

They aren't bad but your fronts and your sub look like they are against the wall and have too much boundary gain. If you can move them out the bottom end should come down into place. The peak that the wall is giving your sub is probably stopping RC from setting the cutoff higher to 120 like we usually like to see.

+1! Sub has a lot of boundary gain that is not helping ARC do what it would like
post #9982 of 14609
I just put an order in for a 700 after taking the MRX and an Arcam FMJ-AVR400 home this weekend to audition. There were definitely some difference between the two, but given the $500 price difference (MSRP), I didn't think the Arcam was $500 better, but musically, I did prefer it just a tad over the MRX with ARC off. ARC on definitely leveled the playing field, but the Arcam still did better with depth and soundstage. Arcam's EQ was AWEFUL.

That being said, this thread is almost 10,000 posts deep and I can't possibly go through them all. What do you think are the top 10 "tips" I need to know as a new MRX700 owner (aside from what's in Tiggers signature..I'm reading through those FAQs)? I'm replacing a 7 year old Rotel receiver. I played with ARC on the demo unit I brought home. I just used 5 points of measurement. BTW, it worked with Windows on Mac running in VMware Fusion.

My equipment:
- B&W 804s L/R
- B&W HTM4 C
- B&W CWM652 Surrounds (in-wall)
- Velodyne SPLR-1200 sub (has it's own room EQ that can't be turned off)
- Epson 9700UB Projector
- Arcam rDAC
post #9983 of 14609
Quote:
Originally Posted by djseto View Post

I just put an order in for a 700 after taking the MRX and an Arcam FMJ-AVR400 home this weekend to audition. There were definitely some difference between the two, but given the $500 price difference (MSRP), I didn't think the Arcam was $500 better, but musically, I did prefer it just a tad over the MRX with ARC off. ARC on definitely leveled the playing field, but the Arcam still did better with depth and soundstage. Arcam's EQ was AWEFUL.

That being said, this thread is almost 10,000 posts deep and I can't possibly go through them all. What do you think are the top 10 "tips" I need to know as a new MRX700 owner? I'm replacing a 7 year old Rotel receiver. I played with ARC on the demo unit I brought home. I just used 5 points of measurement. BTW, it worked with Windows on Mac running in VMware Fusion.

My equipment:
- B&W 804s L/R
- B&W HTM4 C
- B&W CWM652 Surrounds (in-wall)
- Velodyne SPLR-1200 sub (has it's own room EQ that can't be turned off)
- Epson 9700UB Projector
- Arcam rDAC

The FAQ on the first page has a lot of info for new owners. I'd start there.
John
post #9984 of 14609
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrike645 View Post


They aren't bad but your fronts and your sub look like they are against the wall and have too much boundary gain. If you can move them out the bottom end should come down into place. The peak that the wall is giving your sub is probably stopping RC from setting the cutoff higher to 120 like we usually like to see.

Thanks, I must admit that the sub is in an odd spot and I will try to re run and move it around. I am limited on my fronts though. They are about 8 inches from the wall.. Would it be wise to plug them? Could I move them out a bit, run ARC and move them back? Pardon the rookie questions
post #9985 of 14609
well, after a bit of playing around ( i disconnected the built in amp/crossover unit from my sub and then ran speaker wire into the port directly to the sub's terminals and connected it to my spare adcom 545 amp) I got a new graph. This completely bypasses the internal crossover network and gain section. as it stands now, I get a natural 120hz crossover from ARC for the sub and still have 60hz for mains. I still have a lot of roll off on the low end with sub set to auto in advanced section. I tried flat and that worked on the low end but too much highs escaped out the other side since no built in crossover. I set it to 4th order nd got the best results. Here are some graphs with different settings in advanced section. The 1st peak @ 40hz wont go away. It must be the resonate frequency of cabinet. the second peak @ 80hz drops if I move sub out of corner. There is still a valley between both frequencies though. highest crossover on sub is 140hz. I think that is why it wont reach 120hz naturally. I may go in and bypass crossover circuit or change filter caps.

1st auto
2nd flat
3rd 4th order
LL
LL
LL
post #9986 of 14609
Quote:
Originally Posted by mfilippello View Post

well, after a bit of playing around ( i disconnected the built in amp/crossover unit from my sub and then ran speaker wire into the port directly to the sub's terminals and connected it to my spare adcom 545 amp) I got a new graph. This completely bypasses the internal crossover network and gain section. as it stands now, I get a natural 120hz crossover from ARC for the sub and still have 60hz for mains. I still have a lot of roll off on the low end with sub set to auto in advanced section. I tried flat and that worked on the low end but too much highs escaped out the other side since no built in crossover. I set it to 4th order nd got the best results. Here are some graphs with different settings in advanced section. The 1st peak @ 40hz wont go away. It must be the resonate frequency of cabinet. the second peak @ 80hz drops if I move sub out of corner. There is still a valley between both frequencies though. highest crossover on sub is 140hz. I think that is why it wont reach 120hz naturally. I may go in and bypass crossover circuit or change filter caps.

1st auto
2nd flat
3rd 4th order

It looks like that internal crossover was definitely getting in the way!

I think I like #1 above the best. However if you set the cutoff & highpass on #3 to be 10Hz higher, that would probably look great as well. Currently it is doing a lot of boost between 20-30Hz which I'm not sure is really healthy.
post #9987 of 14609
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharp10 View Post

Thanks, I must admit that the sub is in an odd spot and I will try to re run and move it around. I am limited on my fronts though. They are about 8 inches from the wall.. Would it be wise to plug them? Could I move them out a bit, run ARC and move them back? Pardon the rookie questions

I'm not sure I would try plugging your fronts. I don't think that is going to achieve anything positive here.

If you have the freedom to move them forward even another 8 inches, that would likely help. However, if your intent is to move them forward, measure, then move them back, that is not what you want to do. Keep the speakers where ever you intend for them to live when you run ARC.

Moving them, measuring with ARC and putting them back will defeat all the work ARC did. It needs to hear the speakers where they will be living

NOTE: As I recall your fronts were not real bad and ARC was doing a good job with them... so you should be good to leave them alone... we try real hard hear to always make things look as good as possible before ARC even has a chance to help out. However, there are points at which it is time to stop tweaking and let ARC do its job... you may be reaching that point

Eitherway, as I recall, your sub is probably where I would focus more... if my memory of your graphs is any good (and earlier today we saw how poor my memory can be! lol)
post #9988 of 14609
so is cut good boost bad? or just way down there
post #9989 of 14609
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tigger! View Post

I'm not sure I would try plugging your fronts. I don't think that is going to achieve anything positive here.

If you have the freedom to move them forward even another 8 inches, that would likely help. However, if your intent is to move them forward, measure, then move them back, that is not what you want to do. Keep the speakers where ever you intend for them to live when you run ARC.

Moving them, measuring with ARC and putting them back will defeat all the work ARC did. It needs to hear the speakers where they will be living

NOTE: As I recall your fronts were not real bad and ARC was doing a good job with them... so you should be good to leave them alone... we try real hard hear to always make things look as good as possible before ARC even has a chance to help out. However, there are points at which it is time to stop tweaking and let ARC do its job... you may be reaching that point

Eitherway, as I recall, your sub is probably where I would focus more... if my memory of your graphs is any good (and earlier today we saw how poor my memory can be! lol)

Yes the fronts weren't bad but could be improved and the sub was what needed more work. He could move the fronts and measure (or quick Measure) and move them back if he does not upload the result or uploads the saved result of the measure of the original position. If Quick measure is used some sort of solution upload is required as all ARC solutions are wiped out.

I you are moving speakers don't forget to go back and set distances.
post #9990 of 14609
Quote:
Originally Posted by mfilippello View Post

well, after a bit of playing around ( i disconnected the built in amp/crossover unit from my sub and then ran speaker wire into the port directly to the sub's terminals and connected it to my spare adcom 545 amp) I got a new graph. This completely bypasses the internal crossover network and gain section. as it stands now, I get a natural 120hz crossover from ARC for the sub and still have 60hz for mains. I still have a lot of roll off on the low end with sub set to auto in advanced section. I tried flat and that worked on the low end but too much highs escaped out the other side since no built in crossover. I set it to 4th order nd got the best results. Here are some graphs with different settings in advanced section. The 1st peak @ 40hz wont go away. It must be the resonate frequency of cabinet. the second peak @ 80hz drops if I move sub out of corner. There is still a valley between both frequencies though. highest crossover on sub is 140hz. I think that is why it wont reach 120hz naturally. I may go in and bypass crossover circuit or change filter caps.

1st auto
2nd flat
3rd 4th order

I would stick with the Auto setting for your sub. Your sub is not a good candidate for Flat since it's beginning to drop off after 40 Hz. To use the Flat Setting, your sub must play with good volume below 30 Hz and have built-in LFE Protection.
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