The Esquire Theater!! Construction Begins... - Page 5

I've just discovered your thread, and I'm also building a HT in the basement of my house, although in a lot less space than you have available. I know you have picked out the speakers you want to use, but I'm really impressed with the Axiom Audio M80 in cabinet speakers that I'm going to be mounting behind my AT screen. I'm currently running the M22 in the living room. I'm mentioning them here just to get other people's take on them.

Also, I've only read a couple of threads on building HT's. I'm finding yours to be quite interesting and will be excitedly following it.

Link: http://www.axiomaudio.com/m80-in-cabinet.html

After studying your pictures of the gas and water lines, here's an idea. Cut notches into the joists, using a circular saw (like for cutting out holes for door knobs, only smaller), then push and fasten the pipes up into these notches. Check code first to see if you can do this.

I've installed and removed my own natural gas lines, and I had no prior experience, so it's not all that hard. Just use thread sealing tape and get them real tight.

I'm 169% sure that is not code, even though it would be "safe" since the notches would be near the end.

For surrounds I'd look at the Axioms also. The QS8's are rated as one of the best rear and side surround speakers around. There is a woofer on the top and another on the bottom, with 2 tweeters coming out of the front at an angle. I haven't heard these, but I've read enough feed back from those that have bought them that I've got to try them out. I just won't have a place to put them until I have my HT up and running.

Link: www.axiomaudio.com/qs8.html

I checked the PSB Image 10S surrounds, and they only stick out 7 3/8 inches from the wall. They are rated at up to 200 watts.
The Triad OnWall Bronze is 4 inches deep and rated at 100 watts. It might have a hard time keeping up with the other speakers volume wise.
The Axion QS8 is 6 inches deep and rated at up to 400 watts.

By paintable, (concerning the in-cabinet M80's), I'm assuming they mean the outer ridge, but I don't know, exactly. Since I'll be mounting them behind the screen it doesn't matter much, as long as you can't see them through the screen.

Now for screens, I've been looking at the Screen Excellence company. I think they are a little pricey, but I haven't found one that doesn't affect the sound quality as little as these do. They say there is a 2.5 db cut across all frequencies, so just turning up the volume a little compensates 100 percent at all frequency levels.

Link: http://www.screenexcellence.com/

LOL. I know I come across as a fanboy, but I've had these speakers for several months and I love them more every day. Here's a link of my living room setup the way I currently have it. I know it looks a little messy the way I have it, but it sounds wonderful. With the lights out, you can't really see the speakers much.

http://i752.photobucket.com/albums/x...s/IMG00227.jpg

BTW, the wall really isn't pink. This blackberry changes the colors on me. The color is called Clay Pot and in dim light looks reddish orange.

I just try to get straight ones. Twisted ones are the worst. I got mine at Lowes.

I also don't worry about a bend along the skinny side of the 2x4. The wall will still be straight and the sole and top plates will be bent straight after it is part of the structure and Tapconned to the floor. If you try to find truly straight lumber you'll be there all day. It is not a big deal.

Yes, a lot of rain indeed. I hear my French drains draining..... I can't wait to Dryloc the floor.

Here's a little info on Spruce, Pine, Fir, Cedar, and Redwood 2x4's.

Here's the link:

http://www.ehow.com/about_6510849_di...ood-types.html

And here's a copy of what this says:

For the most part 2 by 4's all look the same but they are not. Common 2 by 4's like the kind that can be bought at home improvement and construction supply stores are usually stamped S-P-F on the end. This means the 2 by 4 is either spruce, pine, or fir; these are used mostly for framing. Other 2 by 4's like cedar and redwood are used mostly for decking and railings.

Spruce
1. Spruce 2 by 4's are one of the most common and are characterized by the straight grain attributed to its slow growth pattern and tight-knit fibers. This translates into straight 2 by 4's. Spruce is the lightest in weight of the 2 by 4's and is considered to have the highest strength-to-weight ratio. Spruce can be recognized by its whitish-amber color. It's strong and resilient, and can stand up to the elements better than pine or fir, for this reason spruce 2 by 4's work well for outdoor applications as a cheaper alternative to cedar or redwood.

Southern Pine
2. Pine, or more particularly "Southern pine," has the distinction of being referred to as the stronger of the 2 by 4's. Southern pine is recognized by its warm, golden color and is often pressure treated for outdoor use. The density factor of Southern pine is something that has been noted, the more density, the better fasteners, nails, and screws hold when driven into Southern pine. Southern pine is used mostly for interior framing but is also a popular choice for decking, arbors, and even playground sets for children.

Douglas fir
3. Douglas fir has been called the "standard" for many builders. It has an elasticity that has made it a favorite for builders, and has documented proof that Douglas fir has superior performance against strong forces and natural phenomenon such as winds, storms and earthquakes. Doug fir has tight knots and close grain, with a semi-dark warm red tint. Douglas fir is utilized in framing when maximum strength is required.

Cedar
4. Cedar is one of the more exclusive 2 by 4's. It has a beautiful, almost translucent gold color. It has natural aromatic, insulating, and decay-preventing properties, which make it the premier outdoor building 2 by 4. The stability of cedar also make it a good choice for exterior framing in exposed areas like open beam construction found in mountain lodges and rustic buildings. Cedar also takes stain and preservatives readily and is very easy to cut and work with.

Redwood
5. Redwood 2 by 4's are relatively expensive 2 by 4's. They are used for furniture and decking, as well as in in log homes and around hot tubs and saunas. Environmental laws prevent the mass production of redwood 2 by 4's, so they are a sought-after commodity for those who can afford to use them. Builders love working with redwood because of its inherent dark red beauty and its smooth and pliable characteristics.

Just a word of warning, I am not sure if Drylok Fast Plug is a good solution for foundation cracks. When foundation crack develops, it is not just surface cracks usually , the crack goes all the way to the outside of the foundation. I had similar cracks and I fixed with low pressure injection of epoxy gel. It would cost you thousands if you have the professionals do it, but essentially, they use same method to inject gels or foam into the cracks to bind and seal the cracks from inside to outside of the foundation wall. Hydraulic cement just won't go deep into the crack I think.

When I posted that yesterday, a message flashed up really fast not giving me enough time to read it. All I got was it needed to go to be reviewed by the forum moderator first. There was a lot more info, perhaps explaining why this happened, but I couldn't read it. It might be that I'm new here and only allowed so many posts, or something. Anyway, I've started my own thread here, called CatBrat's HT Build, so I won't be bothering anyone about my own opinions on equipment, etc..

Keep up the good work, HT is my favorite hobby.

I was wondering what to do with the tie-rod holes as well. I had a local concrete services company in yesterday to fix three 5+ foot foundation cracks and they drilled insertion holes and filled with the epoxy. Here in Canada, they charge $450 for the first five feet of crack and then $50 for every additional foot of crack. For the tie-rod holes, they wanted $75 each so now I'm leaning towards a career change away from information technology and into home repair

The cracks were seeping, but no water coming in through the holes so hopefully I'm good. Luckily my contractor picked up the bill for the work.

My last bucket of Dryloc said "not for floors" but that was over a decade ago.

Mine did as well. This is for warranty purposes, not necessarily performance. Drylock seals up a floor as well as a wall, but they don't want a traffic pattern to wear a hole in the drylock layer. I figured that the fact that I have a riser, as well as carpet and pad made the traffic wear a non-issue.

Big: Drylok has a couple formulations for floors. They are designed to be more durable and to go over painted surfaces if need be. Since my concrete will be covered and not directly walked on, I went with the wall version since it penetrates for better waterproofing.

Ben: I say skip that crazy epoxy crack sealing stuff. Your wall is behind foam anyway. Any water getting through will drip down into the French drain.

As far as the floor goes, what are you putting on top?

I don't see why a floor would crack and a wall wouldn't, unless it is just because a wall is typically thicker. If you have hydrostatic pressure, Drylok on the wall or floor is not so great until you get that fixed.

Those are awesome inspirations.

I'm using the JnB entry as my inspiration as well. That photo get's alot of mileage on the forum! Who's theater is it? Was there a construction thread? Photos of the interior of the theater?