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The Esquire Theater!! Construction Begins... - Page 56

post #1651 of 1756
Mine came as a 2900, but still no complaints.
post #1652 of 1756
Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

Mine came as a 2900, but still no complaints.

Fred, Just curious when you ordered yours? Good to know that they may have more 2900s in stock. As you mentioned, a great unit either way.
post #1653 of 1756
I bought it back in March, I think. It was right after MississippiMan posted the Gleem link. I've only used it once, but it did the job nicely.
post #1654 of 1756
I feel another visit is in my immediate future! eek.gif

Looking great Ben!
post #1655 of 1756
Thread Starter 
Sounds good Dylan - Maybe we can organize something this weekend.
post #1656 of 1756
That'd be cool. Let me know when you're free.
post #1657 of 1756
Quote:
Originally Posted by AirBenji View Post

Wellllll....I guess you're right TMcG! redface.gif I don't have all of the frames built. But in my defense, that's because I got too excited and decided to install some before I built the rest of them. smile.gif There will be 14 panels in total...7 are assembled and 4 installed as you can see here. (photo evidence that I have actually accomplished something smile.gif)
Frames attached to the wall...
IMG_2081.jpg
And then...fabric! The red is FR701 Claret Accent. It looks to have an ugly orange tint to it in the pic, but it is a nice true red in person. The gray color is Elephant from the GOM Framework line. It is much harder to work with than the FR701 as it pulls easily and there doesn't seem to be much of a way to avoid it. I am holding my breath as I'm stapling and I probably wouldn't order from this line again.
IMG_2134.jpg
I still need to add the top cap trim around the front perimeter of the panels to hide all of the staples. You can see a piece of it resting against the nearest panel in this pic...
IMG_2136.jpg

What type of material are you putting in the frame under the GOM?

How deep are the frames?
post #1658 of 1756
Thread Starter 
With the exception of the equipment room door, the panels are DONE and the punch list is now very short to "finish" the theater! I know I know - there is no such thing as really finished...I'm already getting materials together for my next project. smile.gif

Items still to complete:
- Finish up baseboard trim near steps
- Acoustic panel on equipment room door
- Set and fill approximately one bazillion nail holes.

I will be doing some other major projects in my house next year, but there are still a few theater items on my list for 2013:
- Equipment room floor. I'm considering epoxy (don't know if that will work) or some laminate flooring a friend had leftover from a project. It will need to be suitable for a rack with wheels.
- Build a projector hushbox.
- Build a ticket booth.

Jimmy - The frames are about 2.25" deep and are filled with 2" of fiberglass (OC705)...some DIY absorbers and diffusers in there based on the plans I received with the pro theater layout service.

Here are the completed panels...the room needs a good cleaning but is basically ready for action!

IMG_2308.jpg
post #1659 of 1756
Looks really nice, Ben. The red grew on me.
post #1660 of 1756
It's hard to tell in the photo, but is the trim around the ceiling the same color black as the ceiling or is it a few shades lighter?
post #1661 of 1756
That looks great Ben!

Nice work!
post #1662 of 1756
Thread Starter 
Thanks Alex!

Dylan - The black in the crown molding matches the rest of the molding in the theater but is different from the ceiling. All of the trim (baseboards, panels, etc.) is Benjamin Moore Regal Black in eggshell finish. The ceiling is the Rosco Supersaturated Velour black.
post #1663 of 1756
Thread Starter 
What to do when you have approximately one million nail holes to fill and you don't feel like doing it: start a new project!

Here is a quick preview of my new backlit movie poster frames. Everything is just dry fit for now. It will take me a few days to paint and assemble, but they should be done soon! I will post the construction process when they're finished.

Here are the lights test fit in the box. It will look a lot more tidy (and bright) when I permanently attach them.

IMG_2343.jpg



Then the frame on top with acrylic diffuser. You can see that the lights will benefit from more even spacing:

IMG_2344.jpg



Then add a poster and trim around the sides and you have a good idea of what it will look like when done:

IMG_2352.jpg



And with the lights off...

IMG_2348.jpg
post #1664 of 1756
Superb job!!! Love it.
post #1665 of 1756
That looks great. Do you have links for the lights and frame that were used?
post #1666 of 1756
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys!

Yes - it is basically copied from the instructions in this thread: Another DIY Poster Marquee Light Box.

I will post construction pics, details and links to the products when the frames are ready for action!
post #1667 of 1756
Thumbs up! Looking forward to seeing it done in a couple months. wink.gif
post #1668 of 1756
Thread Starter 
Ok I just couldn't leave you hanging spaceman so here are some details. smile.gif I think these are all of the products I used - a lot of people in the other thread ask about the cost to build these frames, so here you go...

Spotlight Displays Wide Border Poster Frame x 2 ($150)

LED Strip Lights x 8 ($85). Unfortunately, I cannot recommend these. I will post more on this later but I suggest searching for the same product from ebay seller pitalam; others have used those and they appear to have better luck.

12V 5A 60W Power Supply x 2 ($51).

Acrylite Satin Ice Acrylic 27” x 40” (0.060” thick) x 2 ($90):

¾” 2’x4’ MDF for picture frame spacers x 3 ($35)

1/8” 32"x48" Marker Board to line box x 2 ($25):

Hardwood Shoe Molding for frame surround x 30’ ($30)

Baseboard trim for frame sides x 30’ (had on hand but about $50)

½” OSB Back Panel 34”x47” (had on hand but about $20)

Supplies for my first foray into soldering ($40).


So in all, I am making two frames for about $550. And you could easily save $100 by skipping the decorative trim and swapping the marker board for some glossy white spray paint. Either way, much better than the pricing for the ones online, and I get to say "Hey, I built that." smile.gif
post #1669 of 1756
Two weekends ago my wife, two daughters and I travelled from Canada to New York State and visited Airbenji. I had been to Airbenji's place twice before but the theater was still not completed and I wanted to see the final results. A++++ Airbenji's room is awesome!!! What I really liked about the room was the length and the distance from the first row of seats to the screen. Unfortunately in my own theater because I was restricted by space I find my first set of seats to be too close to the screen. In Airbenji's case the dimensions are perfect. The size of the screen is another aspect that made an impression on me. My own screen is about 120 inches and I believe Airbenji's is 130 inches. What a difference. Bigger is better (in this case anyway).

The image from the Runco was very crisp and bright. I had previously seen Airbenji's projector in action in his living room shooting an image on a gray painted wall above his fireplace. I remember thinking, wow this image is amazing just imagine how it will look on a proper screen. Well it didn't disappoint. The other aspect I enjoyed was Airbenji's massive SUB. With the acoustic treatment in the room there was no ear fatigue and made the whole experience very enjoyable. I understand that on Airbenji's wish list are some Procella Audio speakers which should really take the room up to the next level. Maybe Santa will drop some off this year?

The other thing I need to mention is the carpet. Very plush, soft and warm. You probably would have felt comfortable just lying on the floor in front of the first row of seats. Given the length of the room you probably could do that if you had a large group. A bean bag or two, some pillows and voila a third row for added guests.

Thanks again for all your hospitality Aibenji we look forward to our next visit or yours at our place in Ottawa.

PS: I am also building a poster lighted box like Airbenji; these are sooo cool and really add to the whole movie theater feel!
Edited by michelmia - 11/26/12 at 6:15am
post #1670 of 1756
Thread Starter 
Thank you michelmia for the very nice review! It was a pleasure to have you and your family here in NY.

And yes, my poster frame is almost finished! I have posted my construction details in the DIY Marquee Light Box thread, but here are the main ideas:

Build a picture frame out of MDF and attach a 1/2" OSB back board. Paint the front black:

IMG_2375.jpg


By the way, I suggest these great Spax screws that don't require predrilling - even in MDF:

IMG_2373.jpg

Then drop in a dry erase marker board backer, line the sides with reflective aluminum HVAC tape, and wire up your lights:

IMG_2394.jpg


Voila!

IMG_2399.jpg

IMG_2404.jpg

IMG_2413.jpg

IMG_2417.jpg
post #1671 of 1756
Thread Starter 
Here are some pics of the completed poster box! I'll need to take a close-up view so that you can see the trim detail...black is hard to photograph. But what a cool addition to the HT space...

IMG_2486-Marquee.jpg


IMG_2500-Marquee.jpg


IMG_2504-Marquee-Copy.jpg
post #1672 of 1756
That looks fantastic!! Nice work building your own frame. I am going to cheat when I do mine. I have a couple of premade frames that I will add backer boxes to. If you ever get bored I see a profitable side business for you in making lighted poster frames. Really nice work. smile.gif
post #1673 of 1756
Looks great!!! Any plans to hide the power cable?

Could you have gone even thinner than the 1/2" MDF? Say 1/8" hardboard to keep the profile even more snug to the wall?

How far off the wall does it sit now?
post #1674 of 1756
Nice work there Benji!! I wondered the same thing as Mario in the comment above - do you plan to hide all the electrical bits including the power supply? If so, if you reference Moggie's build at this thread you will see he was able to buy a very tiny 12v 5a power supply which fit within the frame. He also used a single outlet recessed receptacle for the 120v AC connection.

Cuzed has a thread which I think you are aware of that also shows these types of light boxes being constructed in greater detail if you are looking for some ideas and / or inspiration on hiding the power "stuff".
post #1675 of 1756
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys!

In hindsight, yes you could make the box a little thinner by losing the 1/2" OSB back panel and attaching the MDF picture frame directly to the wall. The only limiting factor is that you need an airspace of 1 3/8" between the LEDs and the acrylic diffuser behind the poster. Without that, you don't get enough diffusion and can see the individual LEDs through the poster. So I think you might run into trouble using anything thinner than 3/4" MDF. (I also have the dry erase board inside the MDF eating up another 1/8" of the possible airspace.)

As mine sits now, it is 2.75" deep: 1/2" OSB against the wall, 2 layers of 3/4" MDF to create that airspace, and then the spotlight poster frame on top of that. (Both the frame and my trim are 3/4" tall.)
post #1676 of 1756
Thread Starter 
Oh and I forgot to answer the question about hiding the power supply behind the frame. Yes, I will do that...like this:

I am going to add 3 outlets that are controlled by this Lutron Occupancy Sensor. 2 of the outlets will be behind my two poster frames and the third will be behind my ticket booth (when I finally get around to building it). This way I can’t forget to turn them off and allow the power supplies to build up too much heat.

I will use this big recessed TV outlet box to hide the power supplies behind the frames and ticket booth:

RecessedOutletBox.jpg
post #1677 of 1756
That is so cool! Is it easy to swap out posters?
post #1678 of 1756
That poster box looks great Ben!

Fabulous work!
post #1679 of 1756
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seegs108 View Post

That is so cool! Is it easy to swap out posters?

It's very easy to swap out posters since it is a front loader. A high-resolution picture of the flip-out compression frame is HERE.

By the way Benji, thanks for the detailed materials list with the links. I am already committed to a Hollywood Marquees lighted movie poster frame which I am recessing into the wall, but I plan to build two other movie poster light boxes at a later time using yours / Cuzed's / Moggie's design. Your materials list comes in extremely handy, so thank you again.

And Benji....working on making the Stonewater Cinema link in my autosignature active....by tonight!
post #1680 of 1756
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seegs108 View Post

That is so cool! Is it easy to swap out posters?

TMcG is exactly right - changing the poster is very easy. That's one of the reasons I went with this frame and box construction.
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaustin View Post

That poster box looks great Ben!
Fabulous work!

Thanks Alex!
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

It's very easy to swap out posters since it is a front loader. A high-resolution picture of the flip-out compression frame is HERE.
By the way Benji, thanks for the detailed materials list with the links. I am already committed to a Hollywood Marquees lighted movie poster frame which I am recessing into the wall, but I plan to build two other movie poster light boxes at a later time using yours / Cuzed's / Moggie's design. Your materials list comes in extremely handy, so thank you again.

Glad to be able to be able to help YOU for once - it's usually the other way around!

Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

And Benji....working on making the Stonewater Cinema link in my autosignature active....by tonight!

Fiiiiiiiiinally! tongue.gif I'm looking forward to it - it will surely be a good one!



Here's one more pic to show how the molding profile looks. Yes, fill the nail holes, I know... smile.gif

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