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The Esquire Theater!! Construction Begins... - Page 7

post #181 of 1732
12/10/10 at 8:23am
Thread Starter 
Does anyone have thoughts on Palliser seating?

Palliser Sensation: http://www.palliser.com/furniture/Pr...=&category=HTS

I originally decided on the Berkline 12010 group in this configuration:
Back Row: |O|O|O|O|
Front Row: |O|OO|O|

I have an appointment at a furniture store tomorrow to look at some other stuff for my house and I noticed that they sell Palliser. They appear to be quite a bit more expensive than the Berklines, but it just so happens that I have a 50% off coupon, which equalizes the price of the two. Most here seem happy with the Berk's, but just wondering if anyone knows how they compare to the quality of Palliser.

If I decide on the Berk's, I'll probably wait until I'm a little further along in my build, but this coupon expires on 12/31, so it's time to either pull the trigger or eliminate Palliser as an option.

Thanks and happy Friday everyone!
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post #182 of 1732
12/10/10 at 9:11am
Wouldn't you want |00|00| in the front row if you wanted to sit with your GF with another couple?

Luckily you have the room to store 8 chairs for a year in your basement!
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post #183 of 1732
12/10/10 at 9:23am
Those 3 pails Green Glue look so familiar, and the speedload gun and clips too. But they are all history to me, I still have 3/4 pail and 1 DC04 clip left.

I would go seating arrangement like this:
0|0|0
0|00|0
or
0|0|0
00|00

Front center is supreme and I reserve it for myself only
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post #184 of 1732
12/10/10 at 9:52am
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

Wouldn't you want |00|00| in the front row if you wanted to sit with your GF with another couple?

His original |O|OO|O| could actually come in quite handy depending on what kind of day he had with his GF. In that case, let the happy couple keep the middle seats.
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post #185 of 1732
12/10/10 at 10:05am
Thread Starter 
LOL yes I agree guys. The front row seating configuration was a little bit of a compromise. There were a few issues to deal with:

1 - Four seats in front row was essential to me.
2 - The GAF required a loveseat for "snuggling" (aka GAF falls asleep on my chest while I try to watch a movie...if you're watching JapanDave's build, this also usually includes spilling wine on me, the couch, and the carpet )
3 - I needed slim seats to fit 4 with 13' room width, and the seating group I chose isn't available as |OO|OO|.
4 - According to the GAF, snuggling isn't as necessary when there are friends over, so being split up by an armrest wasn't a big concern.

Walkinator - Your first option is my second choice - I'm not sure I can fit four full chairs in, so it may be just three seats in the second row.
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post #186 of 1732
12/10/10 at 11:32am
LOL, it is nice "snuggling" is still in your GAF's requirement, I guess I have already passed that age and wife is like "don't touch me!", plus we are not seeing the same kind of movies anyway, so for me, it is easy choice, so I would just do 3 single seats on front row and I will be seating on the center seat all the time.
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post #187 of 1732
12/10/10 at 11:46am
Quote:
Originally Posted by theWalkinator View Post

LOL, it is nice "snuggling" is still in your GAF's requirement, I guess I have already passed that age and wife is like "don't touch me!", plus we are not seeing the same kind of movies anyway, so for me, it is easy choice, so I would just do 3 single seats on front row and I will be seating on the center seat all the time.

I'm with you Walkinator...maybe something like this:
|0|||0|||0|
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post #188 of 1732
12/10/10 at 12:16pm
Thread Starter 
Hahaha LOL, yes I have heard tell that snuggling and such pleasantries are very limited in life span!
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post #189 of 1732
12/10/10 at 2:04pm
I just briefly ran through your thread and the build looks great!! Regarding the lumber, since you're in NY the most readily available lumber would be SPF-E (eastern Spruce-Pine-Fir). Generally this comes from eastern Canada and will be fairly straight, with small tight knots and little wane. Since there appears to be no structural use for the walls, any grade would do. HD (and sometimes Lowes) has a 'premium' quality (which you listed) and it's likely only a little more expensive. SPF will give you the least amount of trouble with twisting and warping too. And since its one of the softer "softwoods" it's easy to nail and work with.

Regarding the potential of notching a joist, here's a company that makes reinforcement plates in the event you must notch or drill more than code allows - http://metwoodstore.com/ They are able to even get engineers sealed drawings if your building inspector barks.
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post #190 of 1732
12/10/10 at 2:08pm
Great post Klindy!
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post #191 of 1732
12/11/10 at 7:55am
Thread Starter 
fotto: I'm still laughing - I just realized that you have an EXTRA armrest between those seats haha!

Klindy: Ted is right - thank you very much - that is an excellent post. Very valuable info for someone like me who doesn't know much about dimensional lumber at all.

I have been planning to get my lumber from a good local place (www.marjam.com) because their delivery charge is substantially less expensive, but their hours aren't easy like the big boxes. I was hoping to get there today, but work work work has me pinned down again. I am planning a day off this week, so I hope I can get all of the framing done by the end of next weekend...

I got a little sidetracked this week with work, but today I WILL finish the rigid insulation...
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post #192 of 1732
12/11/10 at 8:00am
looking good
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post #193 of 1732
12/11/10 at 10:48am
I got my lumber from Lowes, I found that Lowes studs are straighter than HD ones. I have a truck so it wasn't an issue as for delivery, I just went there and had them load up to my truck, I didn't even hand pick, then just brought a new pallet and took out extras, 200 2x4s and few PT, it just that I had to pass studs in through egress to wife in the basement to stack them up. That was sometime in Feb this year and even my framing job took couple of months, only few studs warped so majority of them were still remaining straight.
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post #194 of 1732
12/11/10 at 1:52pm
Just wondering. Can you take the warped studs back for a refund or an even swap?

I bought some ceramic floor tile from Southerlands about a month ago. I looked at them one at a time, and picked out about a box of them that had some sort of blemish on them. Then, I took them back and exchanged them for a new box.
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post #195 of 1732
12/11/10 at 2:29pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by CatBrat View Post

Just wondering. Can you take the warped studs back for a refund or an even swap?

Yes you can, they don't do swap, just return them and get new ones. I have returned few with the PT lumbers, they are most easily to warp, so don't get more than you can handle in a week or so, especially this time of the year, basement is warmer and dryer, they get warped pretty quickly.
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post #196 of 1732
12/11/10 at 3:08pm
That's good to know, about only buying up as much lumber as you can use. I was going to just get some and have it on hand when I needed it. Now, I'll only buy it up as I need it instead.
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post #197 of 1732
12/11/10 at 3:21pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by CatBrat View Post

Then, I took them back and exchanged them for a new box.

I think I got that box.
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post #198 of 1732
12/12/10 at 12:50pm
Thread Starter 
I declare insulation COMPLETE!

In this pic, the blue line in the freground is the location of the screen. You can also see the step for the riser and riser about mid-way through the room, and you can kinda sorta see the blue line in the back where the equipment room will be...





Up next: framing & HVAC. I'm trying to set reasonable mini-deadlines, so framing completion: 10 days from today. HVAC: 1 month from today.
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post #199 of 1732
12/12/10 at 1:23pm
Looking good. 10 days for framing, that's pretty aggressive plan. It took me months and I was working almost every weekend, and few hours everyday after work.
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post #200 of 1732
12/12/10 at 6:07pm
Thread Starter 
Hmmm yeah it's possible that my goal is totally unreasonable . I'm not very experienced with framing, but I'm planning to spend full days Friday, Saturday, and Sunday working on it, so I'm hoping I can at least make a significant dent in it next weekend...
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post #201 of 1732
12/13/10 at 11:46am
Thread Starter 
OK so at the risk of exposing my level of (in)experience with framing, I have a question...what are the correct screws to use?

I am planning to use Grip Rite 2.5" drywall screws - is that the way to go? Or should I be using something else? Thanks all!

http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardw...atalogId=10053
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post #202 of 1732
12/13/10 at 11:53am
Those are fine. I like Spax, but that's a personal brand choice

EDIT: I should have clicked the link. I thought they were deck screws. Drywall screws are NOT for framing.
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post #203 of 1732
12/13/10 at 11:56am
Drywall screws are known for being kind of weak. I would go with a deck screw and 3" long. Those are what I used with the star drive head.
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post #204 of 1732
12/13/10 at 12:10pm
So, I have to ask...why not just nail the framing/walls together? I'm just not hip on the ROI for screwing together studs/top/bottom plates for a stick framed wall.
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post #205 of 1732
12/13/10 at 12:16pm
I personally excel at setting deadlines that I'll never meet (at least HT deadlines)...so I'm of the opinion you won't have any problems whatsoever finishing your framing in 10 days!

How are you planning to frame your walls out? build and lift, or toenail each stud? I toenailed mine in, which lead to another failed deadline of my own since it took so long. Highly recommend building your studs in place and lifting into position for both speed and accuracy.

EDIT: I also 2nd fotto's suggestion about nails for walls...keep the screws for ceiling and soffit framing.
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post #206 of 1732
12/13/10 at 12:17pm
In my case, I made some temporary framing for a beam that I needed to remove later. I also fixed a few mistakes since I was able to easily unscrew. Screws are supposed to resist squeaking better, but I do not know if that is true or not!
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post #207 of 1732
12/13/10 at 12:39pm
Drywall screws? Depends on how thick you're going with the drywall. A 2.5" screw is fine if you're only doing single layer or probably even double layer. If you're going triple or quadruple on a face I'd get a longer screw. I'd make my framing screws match just because it's easier than having multiple length screws floating around.

Why'd you decide lumber over steel?
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post #208 of 1732
12/13/10 at 1:12pm
Thread Starter 
Whoa is everyone having a slow Monday today at work?! Thanks for all the quick responses guys!

OK so I gather that I should be using 3" deck screws...sounds good. I am going to go shopping tonight so I can have everything at the ready for my Friday-to-Sunday framing marathon this weekend! (Almost never happens for someone as inexperienced as me and there's usually an extra 1-2 trips to the store for something small!)

fotto - I'm not 100% sure why I'm using screws instead of nails . For some reason, I swear I remember Dennis telling me (or someone else on the board) to use screws, and I thought it was specified in my plans, but I can't track it down at the moment. Anyway, I'm calling that one instructions from the big boss, even if I can't find them right now.

Cutter - That is another "Um, I dunno" answer. Safety in numbers I guess? I see 95% of the people on the board going with wood, so me too?? I have even less experience with metal studs than wood, so that factors in a little too. I know, not particularly good reasons, but those are my reasons...

Oh and thanks HDvids...you're making me feel a bit better about my estimated timeframe ...and yeah, build and liffft!
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post #209 of 1732
12/13/10 at 3:06pm
I'd use a 16d (16 penny) cement coated sinker and nail it. The screws are likey to take 50% (or 100% if you use a battery drill) longer to install. Sure you can always 'unscrew' something if it isn't right but you can also just bang it apart if you need to as well.

Screws have their place (drywall certainly) and perhaps some special framing occassions like small lumber (think 2x2's) but for basic framing I'd suggest screws are just more work than their worth....

Now if you want to use cold-formed steel framing then screws are a good choice! That would solve the quality problem too!!
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post #210 of 1732
12/13/10 at 3:12pm
The most efficient and fast way of doing framing is to use framing nail gun. I can get entire 8' section wall framed while you are probably only be able to get few screws fastened. I use 3 1/2" nails, I have used up more than 3000 nails so if you go with deck screws instead, it will cost you more and slow you down. Also, whatever way you do it, use galvanized fasteners on the bottom plates.

I set deadlines all the time, but never met once so far, for example, I am off today and was thinking to get second coat of mudding done, but it doesn't seem going to happen
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