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The Esquire Theater!! Construction Begins... - Page 9

post #241 of 1732
12/16/10 at 10:42am
Thread Starter 
Yep channel looks all good. 20 gauge...pretty heavy in bundles of 10. Same stuff Andreas got I think, although maybe he got 25 gauge? Can't remember.

Hmmm one (potentially stupid) question - it was snowing when everything was delivered and the channel was covered - I wiped it down but didn't split up the individual pieces and they're definitely still wet...are they going to rust??


Ok now this thread should start getting a little more fun...there will be more visible progress and pics - the last few pages have been a bit dry. Although I guess we could just ask fotto to continue with the witty intellectual banter
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post #242 of 1732
12/16/10 at 10:45am
You need 25 gauge. 20 is too stiff. See page 4 of the SIM...

It is galvanized and won't easily rust.
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post #243 of 1732
12/16/10 at 10:52am
Thread Starter 
Poop.


Thanks for the heads up Ted! Back to the store I go!


Now for my next feat: get 30 pieces of 12' hat channel into the back of an Acura. This should be interesting...
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post #244 of 1732
12/16/10 at 11:01am
Quote:
Originally Posted by AirBenji View Post

Poop.


Thanks for the heads up Ted! Back to the store I go!

You don't need poop. Just stick with the track and forget all these side trips.
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post #245 of 1732
12/16/10 at 11:07am
Ben, their 10 footers are 25 gauge. The 12 footers are 20 gauge. I mentioned this to you before. Oh, and they are stored outside and you can see how much they've already rusted (none).
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post #246 of 1732
12/16/10 at 11:09am
Both the 20 and 25 gauge come in 10 and 12 foot lengths, though who knows what that location is stocking.
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post #247 of 1732
12/16/10 at 11:21am
Thread Starter 
Should have listened to you on that one, Andreas! Oh well, live and learn! If this is the worst mistake I make during the course of this project, I'll be pretty excited.
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post #248 of 1732
12/16/10 at 12:58pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Actually you measure in multiple locations and make the whole wall a little less than the smallest measurement. If there is a large variance the wall shouldn't be built flat, instead each stud should be fitted and toe nailed in place.

Precisely!!


Matt
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post #249 of 1732
12/16/10 at 1:32pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by AirBenji View Post

Ok now this thread should start getting a little more fun...there will be more visible progress and pics - the last few pages have been a bit dry.

Just take some pics of that 12' hat channel sticking out all sides of the Acura...that should spice this page up quite nicely. We like to see pictures of screw-ups almost as often as we like to see good work!
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post #250 of 1732
12/16/10 at 1:37pm
Thread Starter 
So the parents have been kind enough to offer to get me a power tool for Xmas. I read through the "Lets talk tools!" thread and think I have narrowed it down to a table saw or miter saw. I already own: corded hammer drill, cordless drill, circular saw, and a chincey miter saw. I'm not 100% sure what's up with the bevel on my miter saw, but no matter how much I adjust it and mess with it, I always seem to end up with slightly beveled cuts and it drives me nuts.

I think I'm leaning towards this guy: http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardw...atalogId=10053, but a few questions first:

1 - The sliding feature seems really cool and increases functionality - am I crazy? Is this feature worth paying for?

2 - Do I need a bigger blade than 8.5"? I don't see why I would, but I'm no power tool expert...

3 - Is a table saw a better idea? I'd say yes, but I find myself reaching for the miter saw an awful lot, and that crookedness issue bothers the heck out of me.

And NO Fotto - I DO NOT need an automatic GF nailer. I have that one covered.
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post #251 of 1732
12/16/10 at 1:43pm
I'm not a big fan of DeWalt. I had a DeWalt miter saw and got rid of it for a Makita. Much happier.

I find I use the miter saw a lot more than my table saw.
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post #252 of 1732
12/16/10 at 1:56pm
I bought this one at Lowes a couple of days ago for $150. It looks like it will be good enough for my room, but don't have any experience with it yet. I'm not a big DeWalt fan either. This saw might be good, but I've heard a lot of people, including salesmen, complain about the DeWalt products.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_40806-67702-...%3Dmiter%2Bsaw
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post #253 of 1732
12/16/10 at 2:28pm
You'd better get 10" or larger saw. I got this HF cheap 12" compound sliding saw and so far it has done the job very well:
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-inch...ide-98194.html

One tip on framing if you want to the frame wall on floor and move it to the location, always place one plate against foundation wall and start nailing on the other end, this way, you can ensure that the nails always go all the way through and tighten the plate and studs, if you don't do this, you will find that you will need a good use of your hammer.

And one more thing. don't forget to get an actuated gun, couple of box of 0.22 caliber powder load (like bullets) and some fasteners to attach your wall to the concrete floor, it is the easiest and fast way and the Remset hammer action one is good enough, you don't have spend a lot on a triggered one. You can get it at HD for around $20.
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post #254 of 1732
12/16/10 at 2:47pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks Walkinator - all good info. I have been slowly making my way through your thread as well. I didn't see which sump pump solution you ended up with yet, but I have a water-powered backup.

I don't have any experience with the Ramset, but I have used Tapcons before and those have worked well for me, so I'm planning to arm up on them tonight...it's going to be a fastener bonanza at HD . Tapcons, nails for the framing gun, screws to fasten DC-04's to the joists and to the top plates...etc. etc. Speaking of Tapcons, I'm sure it says on the package, but I need to investigate how far apart they should be spaced...

Gotta re-read the SIM on how tall the walls should be - I'm pretty sure it says at least 1" below the joist...but does that mean 1" below the hat channel or the actual joist? Hmmmm...methinks it means below the hat channel, but I'm not sure...
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post #255 of 1732
12/16/10 at 3:10pm
My temporary solution is a hand pump, long term solution, well, I am debating between a generator for the whole house or water pressured pump like yours.

As for SC04 clips, I think it is 1" below the joist being that you attach it to joist not to the hat channel. I actually made it 1 1/2" below the joist, just a little more room to tighten the screws.
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post #256 of 1732
12/16/10 at 3:12pm
Thread Starter 
^ Yep, agreed. That seems to be the only way that makes sense. Thanks walkinator!
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post #257 of 1732
12/16/10 at 7:25pm
Here's what I'd put on my shopping list:
1) Ramset for attaching bottom plates to concrete. Forget about Tapping Connie...Ramming is much quicker, as long as your concrete isn't like 100 years old.
2) Spax screws rule.
3) If you're doing your own trim work, you'll probably get more mileage out of a good 10" (or bigger) miter saw, although a table saw certainly comes in handy for certain jobs.
4) Reconsider automatic GF nailer. Once you get into framing, electrical, plumbing etc. etc. and get even more obsessed, it will get harder to make time for "non-HT related activities".
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post #258 of 1732
12/16/10 at 10:08pm
Thread Starter 
Ohhh Connie!
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post #259 of 1732
12/17/10 at 5:43am
Screw tapcons, why waste all the time? Have some fun with the Ramset. Use ear protection, eye protection of course.
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post #260 of 1732
12/17/10 at 6:18am
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Screw tapcons, why waste all the time? Have some fun with the Ramset. Use ear protection, eye protection of course.

If you like shootin' guns, it's like having your own indoor firing range! What more does a man need?
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post #261 of 1732
12/17/10 at 6:23am
Will the Ramset pull down a sole plate onto the floor if the board has some curve? Tapcons are not perfect in this regards either, but just curious as I didn't use them in my build.

Tapping create a lot of dust, especially when you have to blow out the hole.

*whistles*
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post #262 of 1732
12/17/10 at 6:34am
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

Will the Ramset pull down a sole plate onto the floor if the board has some curve? Tapcons are not perfect in this regards either, but just curious as I didn't use them in my build.

Tapping create a lot of dust, especially when you have to blow out the hole.

*whistles*

AM, I don't recall having any large enough gaps due to bowing (lucky I guess) to say one way or another. One thing I found that was helpful though was to set up the wall and then pre-drill the bottom plate where I was going to Ramset, with a hole slightly smaller than the Ramset nail. I was using the heaviest load for the gun and had a few that didn't want to drive through the wood and the concrete. Making that guide hole fixed that issue. Maybe my concrete was a bit harder in areas as well?
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post #263 of 1732
12/17/10 at 6:41am
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Screw tapcons, why waste all the time? Have some fun with the Ramset. Use ear protection, eye protection of course.

It does save a lot of time! Plus I love the smell of burnt gunpowder....its win/win!
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post #264 of 1732
12/17/10 at 9:48am
Thread Starter 
Sorry to disappoint everyone, but I did buy some Tapcons last night. I looked at the directions and they didn't provide info on how far apart to space them...every 3-4 feet should be more than enough, right?

I'm usually not one for reading directions , but last night I did read the directions for the compressor and nailer (because I'm scared of them ). Stepping onto my soapbox...the grammar in those manuals was so bad that I found myself re-reading entire sentences just to undrstand what they were getting at. Not just poor grammar; blatant singular/plural issues, periods instead of commas, incorrect capitalization, even missing words...it went on and on. It was so bad that I decided to look up Husky's corporate history. Although it has been bought and sold about a million times since its inception in 1924, the name is now owned by HD. You would think they would have someone with slightly better command over the English language writing their manuals. After my products liability class in law school, I think it's hilarious that they would waste all that time and money slapping warning stickers all over the place when you aren't even told how to properly use the tool in the first place!

Before everyone crucifies my poor grammar here on AVS, let me add a disclaimer: it's a compleeeetely different circumstance and can't be compared to precautionary published literature. I mean, come on...I'm typing things like "poop" and "automatic GF nailer". Haha.

OK, I'm done now - just had to get that off my chest! If you're still reading, I'm impressed!

Framing starts tonight after ANOTHER HD run! Have a good weekend everyone!
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post #265 of 1732
12/17/10 at 12:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by AirBenji View Post
Sorry to disappoint everyone, but I did buy some Tapcons last night. I looked at the directions and they didn't provide info on how far apart to space them...every 3-4 feet should be more than enough, right?

I'm usually not one for reading directions , but last night I did read the directions for the compressor and nailer (because I'm scared of them ). Stepping onto my soapbox...the grammar in those manuals was so bad that I found myself re-reading entire sentences just to undrstand what they were getting at. Not just poor grammar; blatant singular/plural issues, periods instead of commas, incorrect capitalization, even missing words...it went on and on. It was so bad that I decided to look up Husky's corporate history. Although it has been bought and sold about a million times since its inception in 1924, the name is now owned by HD. You would think they would have someone with slightly better command over the English language writing their manuals. After my products liability class in law school, I think it's hilarious that they would waste all that time and money slapping warning stickers all over the place when you aren't even told how to properly use the tool in the first place!

Before everyone crucifies my poor grammar here on AVS, let me add a disclaimer: it's a compleeeetely different circumstance and can't be compared to precautionary published literature. I mean, come on...I'm typing things like "poop" and "automatic GF nailer". Haha.

OK, I'm done now - just had to get that off my chest! If you're still reading, I'm impressed!

Framing starts tonight after ANOTHER HD run! Have a good weekend everyone!
Reminds me of a text book i had about biological warfare agents, i think it was written in china and someone just google translated it (genetics major and was studying forensics). It was a terrible read, good info but man i felt dumber after reading it...

also lol at the automatic gf nailer, I think my fiancee has one of those, sometimes when she takes long baths i wonder what is going on in there...

Matt
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post #266 of 1732
12/17/10 at 1:25pm
Do the lights dim unexpectedly when she's alone in the bedroom?
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post #267 of 1732
12/17/10 at 5:52pm
if you didn't get a miter saw yet, get the biggest blade quality saw you can. I got a Craftsman 12" compund miter saw a few years ago for when my wife wants me to put up the crown molding I've used it more than my table saw. lol
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post #268 of 1732
12/17/10 at 7:14pm
I dont know how to subscribe to a thread with out posting a message, thus this message. Sorry. I've enjoyed reading what you have so far. Good luck man.
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post #269 of 1732
12/18/10 at 11:28pm
Thread Starter 
OK so I did't make as much visible progress as I hoped for today, but I did get a lot done. I returned the hat channel and got the right stuff...sorry - no pics of it sticking out every corner of my Acura . Then it was living room couch-shopping time...unsuccessful, but still on the prowl. After that, to Lowe's to pick up a few odds and ends. Then got ready to begin framing, realized my nailer was leaking a little because I needed thread tape...back to Lowe's...GRRRRRR!

Ok so by that time it was 5pm, but I still got a bit done. A few observations: nail guns are awesome. Walls are heavy and maneuvering them around the gas line sucks.

That's it for today...hoping to have a productive framing day tomorrow. I'll have some pics tomorrow!
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post #270 of 1732
12/20/10 at 11:03am
Thread Starter 
Hi All - quick question: what do you use to cut the hat channel on the ceiling? Some kind of metal shears?

Thanks! Yet another area where I'm completely inexperienced
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