MysticalJet Theater 2.0 - Page 2

Well - updated the very first post of this thread. I've gone through several revisions of the "final" design and I think I've got it now. Been tossing a few ideas around and got buy in from the boss. Because of the sloped ceiling, I've decided to slide the riser and seats over to the right. this was to ensure enough clearance when walking into the room and I wasn't pleased with entering to the back of a seat in the previous designs. Moving the seats over will allow for a clear path/isle into the theater. Seating will be off center, but there will be at least 2 seats perfect center.

Below are some photos of the room taped off.

Also had an electrician come to the hose (friend of mine) as initial planning for pulling additional power from the panel. He'll be coming in this week to do that. All together I will have 2 X 15 A and 2 X 20 amp for the theater. I think that will be more than enough power.

I had 3 circuits already wired into where I need it. 1 15A was/is running the preexisting can lights (removed) and outlets (this will all change). The builder had run 2 spare lines (14-3 and 12-2) as well (not connected to a breaker in the panel yet). I wanted 2 more 12-2 lines run.

An electrician friend of mine came over yesterday with the goal of running additional power from the sub-panel in the garage to the theater. Actually, all the power will be run to the unfinished room next to the theater and then branched from there to where it's needed in the theater.

Anyone who has run wiring to the second floor of a finished house understands how difficult/tricky it can be. I initially thought it wasn't going to be that bad because the main trunk of wiring for all of the second floor "seemed" to go straight up from the sub-panel into the unfinished room next to where the theater will be (above the garage).

Of course, the straight line to the panel wasn't exactly a straight line. The unfinished room does have sub-flooring down. The wiring went up under the sub-flooring in the unfinished room then turned and came up through the bottom of an unfinished wall. The distance between where it comes up from the panel to where it comes up through the unfinished wall is ~ 1 - 2 feet.

Needless to say it did require a bit more work.

1) Cut the sheet rock at the top of the garage wall directly above the sub-panel - being extremely careful not to nick the wiring behind it.



2) Cut a portion of the sub-flooring in the unfinished room on the second floor to gain access to the wiring.



We cut a new hole through the garage wall top plate (where the sheet rock was removed) up through into the unfinished room. 2 new 12-2 wires were run up in parallel with the existing wires, then up through the unfinished wall.

These will all be tied into the sub-panel in the future. I will be working through running the wiring throughout the theater room next (can lights, any additional outlets, AV Rack, etc.

Yeah - I like symmetry as well and was very hesitant to move the seating. My initial plans had the riser more centered but after taping it out, I was really concerned about the aisle room and sloped ceiling. Fortunately, I can change my mind when the time comes and I get to that point. I'll be sure to leave enough slack in any of the wiring in case I decide to center the seating again.

BTW - I'm 6' tall so a little less room to work with than you. Many of my friends are around that height or taller.

Thanks for your input!

Spent the last couple/few days running the electric in the room for the can light housings. There will be a total of 9 can lights, 3 separate zones. running the electric was not the funnest. I had to get up in the "attic" crawl space again (and I will again to run other wires) which is tight, dark, full of insulation, no sub-floor, and hot as hell. I have to contort myself in positions I have never been in before .

BTW - this right here is a must when doing this type of work. Especially when you need all your limbs to balance and your working in a dark area.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/ima...sporting-goods

anyway - since we all love pictures here you go.

Here is the scheme for the electrical runs for the room.


Holes cut, wires run.



Run to the back wall where the switches will be.


6" Can Housings (IC Remodel) installed. Also notice the other holes in the ceiling are patched.



Up next is to accurately map out the column/sound absorption panel positions. I will be building a cove to house the side speakers and the subwoofers and running electric and wiring.

-MJ

I decided before I go any further, it was time to remove the carpet. Pulled all the "stuff" aka tools out of the room, cut the carpet into 4 sections to make removal more manageable, removed pad, removed tacks, and vacuumed. Pics below.






Next up - build area for recessed Subwoofer, finish electrical wiring, run speaker wiring, tape & mud & sand.

Been a while since the last update been there has been lots going on. Obviously, the summer has hit and that means outdoor projects which has slowed the progress on my theater.

Here is one of the major outdoor projects:











sorry for the off topic pics, but now you can understand why progress has slowed!

All wires are run, holes patched and sanded, and primer applied to ceiling and walls.






Thats me painitng

Thanks. Still have a ways to go. I'm in the Raleigh, NC USA area.

Well this past weekend, I was able to connect and install all the breakers in the box, painted the ceiling, installed lights. The room now has lights so that I can work in the evenings. Up until this point, I have been working mostly during the weekend days - now I can get in there and work in the evenings a bit easier.

And on to what everyone likes ... the pictures.

Painted the ceiling Mickey Mouse Ears Flat Black with a semi rough roller head.



Also installed 6 lighting trims. They are from home depot, black kit with outer white ring. Easy enough to paint the rim once installed and the roller gave a nice semi rough texture.


that's it for now ....

Some people wait until most construction is complete before painting. I have decided to go the other route, paint first, construct later. I have enough paint for any touch up work that will be needed.

Here is the color scheme so far:


The plan is for the fabric for acoustical treatments to be a deep beige to brown color. I haven't selected the fabric yet but that will come in due time.

Here is the front wall - painted black


Here is the rest of the room with painting finished. Everything took 2 coats on top of the tinted primer.



I was impatient with the photos and the "Chipolte Paste" paint is still wet. This paint actually darkens quite a bit when dry so the color will get deeper.
All the walls will probably get one final coat when all is said and done.

Next up .. window plug/box out and stage construction.

Since it will be behind the screen, my plan is to "plug" the window. Well, not really plug, but box it out and create an enclosure - with a door opening or access to get to the window if needed. The window faces the front of the house towards the road, so I need to do something that is aesthetically pleasing from the outside as well.

I am in the process of this and will take pictures along the way.

Correct - will go with Linacoustic or OC703 or something similar. Plan is to also build bass traps in the corners behind the false wall.

The goal is to build thin columns (~ 5" deep) and have in wall speakers in them for the sides and rear. Right now I am debating on 9.2 vs 7.2 - mostly because I can rather than I need to. For 9.2 would have 4 speakers on the side walls (in columns), 2 on the rear wall. I think it will work out where the height of the speakers are around ear level (for the riser seats) for the sides - rears I can go higher.

Targeting the Axiom M2 or M3 in walls.

Yeah, I'm going to put them up as high as I can. They will be a bit higher than ear level, but obviously not 3 ft higher.

Cool - I'll look into the triads on ebay. thanks for the heads up.

Moving along with three theater projects - Stage build, riser build, and window "plug." Still working on the window plug but I will document each in separate reply posts.

Stage

Plan:
Two tier curved stage that is 6" and 12 " tall. Here is the sketch with measurements:


Materials:
(2) 4'X8'X3/4" OSB
(8) 2" X 12" X 10'
(1) 4'X8'X1/8" Hardwood plywood
(2) boxes of 2 1/2" screws
Roofing felt
(3) old work 1 gang electrical boxes


Process/Progress:
Stage was built to be free floating so (2) 2"X12"X10' were cut in equal lengths to match the width of the room (slightly shorter ~1/2" total). Each joist was cut to length X 2 (according to the sketch plan) and the notched to account for the step. (see above photo.)

30 lb roofing felt was laid on the floor to cover stage area.


Followed the plans, measured, framed, and secured all pieces.



Cut the hardwood plywood to height and length, doubled up and secured to the front for the top and bottom step.


Added the angle pieces near the walls.


Cut holes in the joists to run the speaker wire, added insulation, and ran the speaker wire.


Added OSB top. For this I laid the OSB down, traced the outline of the curve from underneath, then used a compass set to 2" and retraced to add 2" overhang. Cut trace with a hand held jigsaw, then secured to the joists.



Riser is framed as well and I'll try to post progress tonight.

mmmmmmmmmmmmmm pulled pork ....

Built the Riser over the last week as well. The total height of 12".

Plan:
Here is the sketch with measurements. One step on the front left of the riser.


Materials:
(6) 2"X12"X10'
(2) 2"X12"X8'
(3) 4'X8'X3/4" OSB
Roofing Felt
2 boxes of 2 1/2" screws
(6) single gang old work electrical boxes
14-2 electrical wire

Process/Progress
Cut all 2"X12" to appropriate lengths according to the plan, cut out spaces for electrical boxes, and pre-drilled holes for the electrical and speaker wire runs. Laid out the roofing felt, framed and secured all the wood joists. The Riser is floating and was kept ~1/4 inch off the wall.



Laid insulation in between all joists, ran electrical wire and the speaker wires.


Measured, cut OSB, precut outlet box openings, and installed OSB top. Left a 2" overhang on all sides. Same with the step. Installed all electrical boxes.



A picture from doorway behind riser facing stage (bad picture and will take another eventually and post).


That's it for the Riser. Next is to finish the window plug (about 80% complete), select carpet and have installed. (Screen wall is going up after the carpet).

The front of the Room (behind the screen) is a double window. I need something that is WAF - meaning that it has to look like "normal" windows from the outside and, if necessary, accessible without having to rip down sheet rock etc. (plus there is a code issue with "perminantely" covering these windows with sheet rock). The entire size of the double window (including top and side moldings) is 63" wide by 66" tall (to this inside of the window sill).

So this is what I came up with:

Materials:
(4) 1"X4"X8' primed finger joint boards
(1) 4' X 8' X 1/2" sheet Styrofoam insulation
Crazy Glue
Caulk
Finishing nails
Black Paint and White paint
Velcro

Progress/Process

Here is a picture of the window from the side that gives a good idea of the window sill. There is to be no ripping out of the molding or the sill! so I had to plan around it. The idea was to frame around the window and attach the styrofoam insulation onto the frame with velcro. This would allow for the molding, window sill, and blinds to remain - thus keeping the window in tact and looking like a regular window from the outside - with access if needed from the inside.

Here's side view of molding and sill.


I decided to frame around the window with 1" X 4" finger joint board. The sides and top boards are outside the moldings and the bottom board sits on the inside of the window sill, but the entire frame sticks out further than the sill or moldings.



Next up was creating the styrofoam cover. The 4' X 8' sheet was cut into 3 sections - one large piece and two smaller so as to meet the dimensions of the frame.


The pieces were glued together with crazy glue then "joints" were caulked when the glue set.


When the caulk was dry, one side was painted white (outside facing) and one side (inside facing) was painted black.



Velcro was applied to the edge of the finger joint frame and to the edge of the styrofoam panel.


Then the panel was attached to the frame.



Two more shots from further back.



Some Notes: I wasn't sure how sturdy the styrofoam panel would be, especially the joints where it was glued together. Surprisingly once the glue and caulk set and paint dried, it was very sturdy. This method blocks about 95% of the light as some still seeps through the Velcro. I am not worried however because I will be covering the back wall with Linacoustic (or something similar) which will block all the remaining seepage of light. I will either paint the bottom of the window sill black or the linacoustic will cover.

Next Up: Carpet installers are coming in to measure and provide a bid. I have 3 carpets in mind at this point.

No pictures to post yet, but I will over the next couple days. Right now, looking at three carpets - all three are black in color but have texture to them.

As soon as I have some photos of the samples, I'll be sure to post.