MysticalJet Theater 2.0 - Page 3

Yeah that was very temporary ... lol. I never turned the power on with it like that although this was done in case i needed temporary power - that connection goes to a portion of the outlets.

All the wires now enter an outlet box where they are connected. I also have temporary light switches connected.

If you squint hard .. you can see the outlets on the wall next to the door ...

Now that would be an incredible build!

I am still in the process of getting pricing on carpet and install. The process is taking longer than expected mostly because I am waiting for pricing to come back. Wasn't happy with the first bids so I am waiting on a second and third. Anyway, the front runners for carpet (and fabric for panels) are below. Your opinions welcome.

These are not in any particular order of preference:


Masland Preswick
Pattern: 9443
Color: 899 exeter



Stainmaster Fort Valley
Pattern: 5458
color: 95688 Nightfall



Masland Montauk
Pattern: 9479
Color: 888 Black Pearl

There may be more as I go through this ....

I should have clarified a little better. These are three carpets (pictures grouped in two's) so the top 2 are the same, the middle two are the same, and the bottom two are the same.

I've update the pictures above to include the carpet info.

Going with the Stainmaster - Fort Valley above. I just came back from putting a deposit down. We really liked the Masland as well, but it came in at $1700 more than the Stainmaster carpet and I couldn't justify in my mind that difference in price. Best part is the Mill had enough in stock - so the lead time will be pretty quick.

Total for carpet, 8# premium pad, install, tacks, tax is just over $2K. A really good price I thought. The carpet retails at $5.20 per sq. ft, but happened to be on sale for $3.90 per sq. ft.

Total square footage of carpet is is 498.

Carpet is being ordered today and I should have an install date tomorrow .

Thanks Jim. On top of the velcro, I wound up tacking the panel in with a few drywall screws into the edge of the frame I installed.

1) added crown molding with lighting
2) Carpet install

This reply will be dedicated to the crown install and a separate reply for the carpet.

So while waiting for the carpet, I got the itch to do something else... and of course I started searching this site looking at several theater builds. Then I get the bright idea that "Hey I want some ambient crown lighting to hit on the slanted ceiling walls that are controlled by a light switch." The other advantage is that I can now build the columns right up to the crown without having to deal with the angled ceiling.

So - although not in my initial plans, I decided to do just that. To do so I had to tap off one of the electrical runs, and so I added another circuit to the existing 20 amp that is dedicated to lighting. This was fairly easy and I am way below the max amp usage.

The approach was a combo of a couple threads (and unfortunately at this point I can't remember which ones -sorry). Anyway, I have a switch that controls two outlets that I put in. The outlets will be behind the screen wall, and the rope lighting for the crown plugs into the outlets. Once the screen wall is up, the wiring will be hidden.

To follow the previous posts here we go ...

Materials:
(6) 1"X2#X8' furring strips
(6) 1"X4"X8' primed FJP boards
48' crown molding (cut into 12' lengths)
(2) 25' rope lighting - cut to size as needed
75' 12-2 Electrical wire
(6) brackets
(3) Old work single gang box
(2) outlets
(1) light switch (temporary)
(2) black outlet covers
Black paint - mouse ears
Chipolte Paste Paint

Total Cost (minus paint and nails) = $200

Process:

Here is a picture of a small model - actually, I ripped the 1"X2" into 1"X1" (3/4"X1" actual).


Here are the all the boards painted:
1"X1"


1"X4" FJP


Crown


Attached the furring strip to the wall. At first was using screws, but they were starting to split the wood, so I reverted to finishing nails.


Attached the 1"X4" to the bottom of the furring strips with finishing nails. I also used 6 small brackets for additional support.


Added the rope lighting on top with included mounts.


Attached crown molding to the edge of the 1"X4" boards.


I touched up the holes with wood putty and painted.
Broader picture of the finished product:


With the lights dimmer:


With lights off:

This to me is a huge milestone in the progress. I can now focus on the screen wall, columns, sound treatment, and AV closet.

Not much to talk about for the carpet, but here is some info.

Carpet amount - 498 sq. ft. - There is a decent size piece left over.
Stainmaster Fort Valley
Pattern: 5458
color: 95688 Nightfall
Cost - $2000 including pad and install
The install took the better part of a day. Installer arrived at 8 am sharp and was finished walking out the door at ~ 3:30 pm. Just one guy - he usually has a helper but he was sick. Anyway on to the photos.






finished product:

Over this past weekend, I concentrated on the front wall. Two goals were to build bass trap s and treat the front wall for sound.

Materials:
144 sq ft. 2" OC703
2.5” Fine Thread Drywall Screws (1 box)
Speaker Grill Cloth Black Yard 70" Wide (From Parts Express)
Grip-Rite Round Plastic-Cap
1”X2.25" furring strips (cut from 1"X4" FJP board)
3/8" Staples
1/4" Hardboard 4'X8'
1"X2" furring strips

Total Cost = approx. $250

Process:
Cut 1"X2.25" furring strips, painted them black, and attached to the ceiling, stage floor, and side walls to frame in the OC703. This is what I stapled the cloth to.

Built 2 bass trap frames using 1X2 furring strips and the 1/4" hardboard cut into triangles. Painted the outer frame black.



Cut the OC703 into triangles - 8 per sheet


Installed the traps into the corners and also installed the OC703 on the front wall. I used the Grip-Rite Round Plastic-Cap to attach the OC703 to the wall. I removed the nails and added the 2.5" fine thread drywall screws.




Finally, attached fabric (speaker cloth) to furring strips with 3/8" staples (utilizing a pneumatic staple gun) and pulled taut.




I am in the process of building the screen wall. I should have that finished by this weekend and will post updates.

I plan on using fans to draw the air out and into the adjacent closet (in hallway) or room (which is currently unfinished but will be finished). Haven't taken too many pictures of the AV closet only because I haven't focused much time into it - but I'll snap one and post.
I will be putting an access door in the back, which will be accessible from the room behind.

As for the equipment - nothing set in stone but looks like this:
Receiver/Amp: Pioneer VSX 1020 or Denon AVR-1912
Spare receiver/amp to power bass shakers
Game Systems: XBOX 360, PS3
DVD/BD Player: PS3
Media Center: HTPC
Projector: Panasonic PT-AE4000U
2X power conditioner/surge protector/UPS

Finished the screen wall framing. I utilized the minimalist approach - built with primed FJP boards. All my HD carries are 1" not the 5/4", but the framing is sturdy and I expect no issues.

Materials:
(6) 1" X 4" X 12' Primed FJP
(1) 1" X 8" X 12' Primed FJP
1 box 2 1/2" deck screws
Black Paint (Left over MM Ears)
Finishing nails (1 1/4")

Cost: approx. $90

Progress/Process:

The wall is a bit more tricky than the average because the uprights are attached to the slope ceiling. Also, the screen wall is not straight across as there is a bump, then an angle forward. The below Sketch shows what I'm trying to explain.


Here are sketch designs for the framing of the wall.



For the main supports, the 1" X 8" were ripped to 6" wide. I have an angle measure tool which helped determine the angles needed for the top, so there was several measurements made prior to cutting. But the boards were cut to angle and size. A 1" X 3" was attached to the 1" X 6" with finishing nails and 2 1/2" screws to for an L shape. An additional 1" X 3" was attached to form a Z shape.



A top and bottom plate was attached and are used to attach the column to the floor and ceiling.


The rest of the supports were cut, nailed, and screwed together ... with many measurements in between. All pieces were painted black and attached in place on the stage.





A support brace was added to the center of the top cross member and attached to a joist in the ceiling. Here is a photo of the finished product:


That's pretty much the framed screen wall - I just need to touch up some areas with paint.

I know the pictures aren't that great - I'll take some new and re post when I do.

Next onto the columns.

Here are some pics as requested of the closet thus far. I will add a post on the entire progress of the closet when it is finished.

For both - Gives me flexibility to put speakers on the side of the screen. I had to sacrifice depth behind the screen and my current L & R would be very tight behind the screen. I will be going with AT screen - maybe or maybe not right away. I will be using my current LCR to start, but then upgrade eventually the goal is to have all behind the screen. At that point it will be strictly for looks.

18 inches from the front wall.

I would love to build my own. I know my skill set, and unfortunately speaker building is not one - yet. I am by no means an audiophile so I wouldn't know what I was after. IB sub would be interesting. Looking at 2 X 12" right now from the typical companies.

Been busy with building the columns for the theater. There will be six total with 4 housing in wall speakers. The columns will be 3 3/4" deep and come flush with the crown that was installed earlier.

Materials:
To be added when finished

Cost:
To be added when finished

Here is the basic design for the columns. I may have them be all black in color to match the trim in the room.


To be most efficient with wood usage, I mapped the cutting pattern so to use the minimum amount of MDF and have the minimum waste.


Cut all the MDF based on the plans above.


Then just a matter of assembling the columns. I glued, nailed (finish nails), and screwed in may cases.


One column finished with assembly



Location of the columns were marked on the walls and 1" X 2" furring strips were attached to the wall studs. I Made the size of the columns and locations so the bracket wall studs. The columns will fit snug around the furring strips and the columns will be held in place with friction and finish nails.

Here are pictures with all 6 columns in place (dry fit).



Next Steps:
Sand columns where needed
Measure and cut openings for speakers
Add trim moldings to columns
Paint columns
Stuff columns with insulation
Attach to wall
Add speakers
Add speaker cloth covers

No extra. The room is tied into the main AC (and heat) - 2 zone, 1 upstairs and one downstairs. In the room, there is one larger return and two vents - all on the ceiling. The thermostat is just outside the room.

There are two guest bedrooms upstairs and the theater, so in most cases the Theater will be the heaviest used room up there. I didn't feel the need to add another zone.

Thanks. I've actually made some progress since the last photos, but I just haven't had time to load the pictures. I'll get to it by this weekend

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I have three mini projects within this build that I am working on in parallel: False Wall; Screen; Columns.

I am waiting for the screen material from Seymour AV (XD material) and I have completed the false wall. I am waiting for the in-wall speakers to arrive so I can rough cut and finish the columns.

In any event, for this post I'll focus on the screen frame and the false wall.

Screen Frame:
Initially contemplated what Brad did here and buying the frame from Jamestown and using the XD material from Seymour AV.

I decided against it because my frame required a bit more customization due to the angled ceiling. You can see in the design below that I need the top edges to be angled which allows me to have the screen high enough for the visibility from second row seating.


Materials:
4' X 8' X 3/4" Hardwood plywood
4 L brackets
2 Straight brackets
#10 3/4" wood screws
Kregs Jig pocket screws
Wood Glue
Microvelvet (Jo-Ann Fabric - the $27/yard stuff)
3/8" staples ( a bunch)

Cost: (with screen material on order) about $400 - $450

Build/Progress

The screen is not 100% complete, but the frame is done for the most part. There are several documented screen build threads so I will give the cliff notes version.

The plywood was ripped in 3" width X 8' pieces and cut to length based on the plan. Pocket holes drilled with Kregs jig on any joint edges.



The screen was pre-assempled with pocket screws and braces at each joint to ensure proper size, fit, and squareness. The long sides were built with equal length smaller pieces pocket screwed, glued, and braced.


The screen was disassembled and the top corners of each side piece were cut to match the ceiling angle. Then each piece (4 separate pieces) wrapped in velvet and stapled. The frame was then reassemble using pocket screws and braces. (Picture a bit further down in this post). Piano hinges (2) were attached along the top edge. these will hold the screen up and allow for the screen to be swung open.

False Wall fabric:

I am utilizing fabric frames that are attached to the false wall for the screen wall. I was debating quite a bit on whether I wanted acoustically transparent fabric for the false wall for flexibility in speaker placement. Ultimately I decided on going with the AT screen right away, so I decided to use micro-velvet: boy is it nice material.

Material:
4' X 8' X3/4" hardwood plywood (cut in 1 3/4" wide 8' lengths)
9 yards microvelvet
3/8" staples (a boat load)
Heavy Duty Grill Guides (from parts express) 9 bags

Cost: about $200

Build/Progress:
Don't really have in progress pics of this, but basically there was a lot of measuring and cutting. the angles created a bit of a challenge, but ultimately came together.

The frames were put together with pocket screws and glue. And all put together (dry fit) before adding the fabric. (Notice the screen frame is up there as well)


And how did he attache those to the wall framing you ask ... with these of course:



Once all fit in place, all frames were taken down, wrapped in fabric and stapled.

Here is the product thus far without the screen material. Color is a little off because my point and shoot doesn't do so well in low lit rooms. the walls are a deep burgundy.