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Mfw-15 Clone Project - Page 2

post #31 of 120
Thread Starter 
I used Valspar rattle can primer about 4-5 coats sanded 120, 220 in between till seams disappeared completely. I used flat or satin black Rustoleum oil base from Lowes. I buy it in the gallon and roll with a 4" foam roller. This gives a high build and hides some of the surface imperfections. This also matches pretty much all the "flat" surfaces normally seen in HT gear.

Here is a better picture of what the paint looks like dry. The above pic of the MFW is still wet.

The stand on the right I used the flat Rustoleum on, the speaker on top(bookshelf) and the TK5 tower left have black ash vinly laminate...... Pretty close especially when the lights go out

post #32 of 120
thanks,

so you do 4-5 coats of primer and sand in between?

how many coats of rustoleum paint? sanding....

will any primer work, or are there prefer primer?

i want to get them from home depot as i have a few $$$ in giftcards.
post #33 of 120
Thread Starter 
man my finishing is pretty amateur, but normally at least 3 coats rustoleum and sand 220 in between. Rustoleum oil base drys slow so give at least three days to cure between coats, otherwise the top oat will gel the undercoat and cause lots of problems.......

If there are any major flaws between coats sand with 120 then 220 to get it smooth. if the sandpaper is getting gummy balls built up on it, it's too soon.

Overall the flat is really forgiving take your time and it'll work.
post #34 of 120
I have started cutting my wood for the MFW-15 clone ! Its one thing to read forums and drool about the aweseome projects you see getting done... But there is something special about taking action and doing something....i will post some pics as I get more done. I am going to route the baffles out today.
post #35 of 120
Thread Starter 
Cool Chris!

Link me when you get started so I can follow along.

Oh, and I have since started using PLII Premium Polyurethane adhesive. It expands to fill voids when curing and would have made the port assembly MUCH easier. Its oil based so doesn't come off easy so I use nitrile gloves when using the stuff, but its the bomb!

Measure ahead of cutting to double check my measurements!
post #36 of 120
where do you buy that?
post #37 of 120
not sure what is pl 2, but pl can be purchased at lowe's. it comes in tubes that go in "caulking guns". it will be near/next to "liquid nails".
post #38 of 120
"I used Valspar rattle can primer about 4-5 coats sanded 120, 220 in between till seams disappeared completely. I used flat or satin black Rustoleum oil base from Lowes. I buy it in the gallon and roll with a 4" foam roller. This gives a high build and hides some of the surface imperfections. This also matches pretty much all the "flat" surfaces normally seen in HT gear."

looks great.
post #39 of 120
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fschris View Post

where do you buy that?

LTD is right i thought it was called PL II but its this:


Attachment 231120
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post #40 of 120
okay started cutting... i really dont like my table saw it is old. i hate how it seems the guide rail does not move in uniform it seems i have to measure it in several places in regards to the balde to make sure it is square... i just cant set it and go. I have to try and measure 50 times and a couple of the picese are slightly not square. they are very close so we will see when i get enough cut how bad it will be. i am going to go look at new table saws and see how they operate. the one i have was gifted to me and a handdown. not that i can afford to buy a new. if its really bad i will ask my father in law if i can use his table saw it may be better than mine.
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post #41 of 120
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fschris View Post

okay started cutting... i really dont like my table saw it is old. i hate how it seems the guide rail does not move in uniform it seems i have to measure it in several places in regards to the balde to make sure it is square... i just cant set it and go have to try and measure 50 times and a couple of picese are slightly not square. they are very close so we will see when i get enough cut how bad it will be. i am going to go look at new table saws and swee how they operate. the one i have was gifted to me and a handdown.

That thing looks like mine!

Is it a rockwell?

Your maybe in better shape than mine though...
post #42 of 120
It is a Old craftsman... it has a nice large ssurface area though. i'm sure the thing was not cheap back in the day.
post #43 of 120
Can you check measurement for piece number 11 ( its the back piece) ?? you have 20 1/2 inchs but i think it needs to be about 21 1/4" something I will cut it to fit just wondering... the 20 1/2 pice I cut is too short.

No wait .. maybe I laid the pieces out wrong... and the measurement ir right ? not sure...

I am not going to mount the amp in the sub either,, I did buy a MFW-15 amp but not sure I want to use it.... I really just want to get an external amp.... plus it will make cutting the back eaiser...
post #44 of 120
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fschris View Post

Can you check measurement for piece number 11 ( its the back piece) ?? you have 20 1/2 inchs but i think it needs to be about 21 1/4" something I will cut it to fit just wondering... the 20 1/2 pice I cut is too short.

No wait .. maybe I laid the pieces out wrong... and the measurement ir right ? not sure...

I am not going to mount the amp in the sub either,, I did buy a MFW-15 amp but not sure I want to use it.... I really just want to get an external amp.... plus it will make cutting the back eaiser...

Chris yes looks like goofed that one.

It calculates to 21.5 actually.....

You already putting the back on? Already got the port assembled?
post #45 of 120
Quote:
Originally Posted by fschris View Post

...the guide rail does not move in uniform it seems i have to measure it in several places in regards to the blade to make sure it is square...

If the basic saw is solid, you could buy an aftermarket fence. Things to check for on the saw:
  • Blade is parallel to the table slot
  • Top is not warped
  • Bearings run smooth - motor smooth and powerful
  • Trunnion works well - easy to raise/lower/tilt and holds setting

Old tools can be fine with a little TLC
post #46 of 120
i was just kind of standing the pieces up....

next project is cutting out the circles in the baffel....

have a router... never used it. i have to make a little circle jig or something
post #47 of 120
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fschris View Post

i was just kind of standing the pieces up....

next project is cutting out the circles in the baffel....

have a router... never used it. i have to make a little circle jig or something

Yup good catch, measure ahead of cutting when you can.

General enclosure volume and port diameter/length are the MOST important. How we get there is in the noise.
post #48 of 120
ordered a milescraft circle jig... will be on hold while i wait on that.
post #49 of 120
Sounds like a neat project... or it will when it's done!
post #50 of 120
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimwhite View Post

Sounds like a neat project... or it will when it's done!

you inspired me... ever since i heard your home builts when i was 14 years old i knew one day i'd have to build my own speakers!
post #51 of 120
Gluing up the baffle ...
LL
post #52 of 120
another pic... have some of the box clamped and the glue is drying....
LL
post #53 of 120
Thread Starter 
Looking good!

Chris, I would stop here and draw in the port assembly and double check the measurements! You can draw it in on the left side.
Like this:



This will also give you a heads up on assembly steps so you don't get too far ahead of yourself. I used a number of screws brad nails etc to get the port pieces to behave like i wanted.

Also before you get started with assembling the port I would get some of that PL glue, its critical that there are no air leaks in the port.
post #54 of 120
Thanks... I will run to home depot tomorrow and get some of the PL. I should be able to draw it in tomorrow... fit the port up and then glue it in on Saturday. I will take some more pics. I will verify I have 1.5 inchs around the port and when i install double check no air leaks.
post #55 of 120
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fschris View Post

Thanks... I will run to home depot tomorrow and get some of the PL. I should be able to draw it in tomorrow... fit the port up and then glue it in on Saturday. I will take some more pics. I will verify I have 1.5 inchs around the port and when i install double check no air leaks.

Good I think youll appreciate it once you get to using it. Also get some gloves so you can smear it over the seams to seal.

Also I pre-assembled parts 2 and 3 before port assembly. This made the assembly of all the other smaller parts easier.

Keep the pictures coming!
post #56 of 120
Okay I have some of the port setting up. I did get the PL but I have not used it yet. I am going to smooth it over those joints after the wood glue drys. So far they look pretty air tight. I squeezed the port together and it all lined up.

I have to say this is my FIRST ever speaker build, fist time using a router, first time using a table saw. I learned after the fact how to really square my table saw up. I need to build myself a work bench as well. I have learned a lot though from everyone here. Thanks for all the help. I think my future projects should turn out better. Not to say this one is going bad....

I already think I will build another one after this as I have another mfw-15 driver.
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post #57 of 120
Thread Starter 
Moving pretty fast man, looks good though. Those two little 45 degree pieces are pretty much all thats left which might be tricky other than that its slapping on the back, bottom and side!!!

Lay that level or another straight edge across all the pieces once you get the bottom, back, and those pesky little 45s on to make sure you don't have a high piece which would prevent a tight fit when you install the last piece(right side).
post #58 of 120
If I had the ability to do excellent wood work, I'd build these using my old faithful Dayton 15" DVC drivers. I think they are basically the same drivers.

BTW jimwhite, small world. We're neighbors!
post #59 of 120
Nicks sent you a pm!
post #60 of 120
Got some more items glued up. Tomorrow I will glue in those angle pieces.
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