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"Shh, No Talking" Home Theater... - Page 5

post #121 of 300
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the ideas Brad. I figured I would stick with the rigid stuff for the panels, just needed clarification, that's all

Well, once again I disappoint with the lack of pictures but I can assure that I am making progress

I finally got around to start painting my econowave cabs which I will finish tomorrow!

On a different note though, I am ready to order my 4 IB3 drivers but I just need to figure out if I should order the single 4ohm drivers or the single 2ohm drivers. I'm figuring the single 2's that way I can wire them in series to create a 4ohm load on each channel and stay safe, less heat anyway. Since the driver's RMS is 550 watts I believe, the EP4000 amp should be able to provide that without sweat even at 4ohm to each channel. Let me know if you have any other thoughts on that or any reasons to grab the 4ohm version

Pictures are coming, sometime soon
post #122 of 300
Thread Starter 
Update:

I ended up ordering the 2ohm version drivers so I can make a 4ohm load per channel.

I just about finished my LCR's, paint is done and so is wiring, just need to cut out a seal for the back panel and we're good to go

Riser is finished and all wiring is ran, but I may have a problem, lets hope not. I ran my LCR, right surround and subwoofer speaker wire along the main structural beam which also has a handful of power wires for lights and outlets in the rest of the basement running side by side, will I have a problem with interference? Tomorrow I will find out exactly what those wires run to but in the meantime, is there any kind of diy shielding I can run down the bulk of speaker wires just in case?

I also STUPIDLY made a few of my longest runs too short so I had to splice in some more length because it would have been way too much of a hassle to replace them, buuuuut I probably will replace them anyway, job for tomorrow (rolls eyes).
post #123 of 300
Thread Starter 
Good news! I am FINALY getting some pictures up and I figured out how to neaten up my splices!


First, my splicing fix...




2nd, my "just about complete" Econowave LCR's...














Then comes my wiring and framing...

The problem child...








Stage and front wall...




Rear riser...




Beginning build of my Monkey Man inspired projector mount...




And that's about it for now. Tomorrow, I will finish the LCR's (I need to make the gasket for the back panels and paint the screws black), work on the projector mount some more and then go from there. Sometime this week, we will get an outlet wired in the ceiling for the projector as well.

One last note, has anyone experienced problems with running their HDMI cable in the same bulk as their speaker wire? Both are together for only 5-6 feet though so I wasn't too worried about it but if it might be a problem, I can work something out to get it out of the way.

Let me know if you guys have any concerns on my wiring being next to electrical lines. I just noticed that the large gray wire is feed from the street so I can move that up above the rest of the wires but that might be the best I can do.
post #124 of 300
Thread Starter 
Welp, I finished the Econowaves today, I painted the screws black yesterday and reinstalled today, made the gaskets last night for the back panel and tried them out today. They do sound good, not sure if there is a break in period or not though. They sound different than my Paradigm towers, part of the difference is how they seem to blend with the picture more, not that my Paradigm's were localizable, just that these seem to blend better I guess.

On the other hand, first movie I tried with them was transformers because I've heard it many times on my current speakers. During a few scenes, the speakers seemed to lack some sounds in a few areas, not sure why. I did watch Source Code today with them though and they played very nice. I didn't have them cranked yet, but at a good volume. I did re-run Audessey for these btw. During Source Code, the whole room seemed to blend very well between the fronts and surrounds, made the surrounds jump out more than usual. Granted this was the first time watching this movie so maybe it was just the recording, but idk. Either way I'm pleased so far. Below is just a shot of the cabe with painted screws, what a difference!




And then with them just sitting in their place on the front wall...

post #125 of 300
Thread Starter 
Well, I just thought of another issue that's been in the back of my mind the whole time and I need to do something about it before drywall, which is soon.

The two walls that are built against the concrete are exactly that, built right against the concrete, so, there is no way for me to cover the entire concrete wall with rigid foam insulation. Would my next option be to cover what I can of the concrete with the rigid foam? I can't get behind the studs, not with foam anyway. I could always try to squeeze a plastic barrier behind the studs although I'm not sure how tight the studs are against the wall at the moment, but, if anyone has any ideas on how to address this, they would be much appreciated
post #126 of 300
If you are trying to create a small gap between the back of the studs and the concrete wall, try running a sawzall blade between them to shave off part of the stud.
post #127 of 300
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the idea paul but I don't think I want to cut all of my joists down like that. I'll see if I can squeeze palstic behind and maybe go with that.

Other ideas are welcome
post #128 of 300
Thread Starter 
I figured it was time for an update, although not tooo much has been done, enough to flood with a few pictures

Here is my new 18" IB3, 4 of them total...



Front wall, all plywood screwed and glued to framing...



I framed out "boxes" for my surrounds...





This one had me pondering for a while, block off, seal off, what to do? I decided that I would just paint the glass black, stuff insulation in there and drywall right over the windows. The catch though, I also decided to completely cover the walls with removable fabric panels instead of paint, in turn I will leave a section of drywall removable around the window opening just in case I need to replace the window.



These next two are showing the lovely drain pipe that I had to build a soffit around and where it goes through the top corner of my screen wall. I just need to figure out how to seal up the gaps, mainly for vibrations and rattling against the soffit framing. Could I use acoustical caulk for this or expandable foam in a can? Ideas?





Here is a shot of my projector mount. After some time, I realized that I will probably have issues with LFE shaking the projector because of the bass waves flanking all the way from my front wall to the projector, so to fix, I will try to isolate the 2x4's and plywood with IB3 clips...



This shot is just where my speaker wire runs into the closet...



Green glue...



Silenseal, Whisper Clips, IB3 clips and putty pads...



I was originally only going with 4 can lights near the screen because I don't need hella light in the room, movies only, nothing else, but then I decided that it would be easier to do more lighting now than later. No room for sconces so I decided on 3 can lights above each row of seating, total of 10 can lights, but maybe 9 because I might pull one from the front and have 3 on the screen wall, that way my plumbing guy doesn't have to move any water lines for the 4th box. Here are my backer boxes I whipped up (well, not really whipped, it did take a while and I'm still not done :P ) and the drywall lining and the cans them selves...







Finally, my rack, all of the gear is in there and the PJ is just on top for the time being...



And of course, everyone can appreciate a neat wiring job, not easily seen but it's there



Enjoy and stay tuned
post #129 of 300
Looking good! Wish I had the opportunity to go IB...
post #130 of 300
Thread Starter 
Thanks! I hear ya though, with my first room layout design, I didn't have the opportunity for one either, not in the recommended location anyway, but after I decided to swap the room around, it will work out well, hopefully
post #131 of 300
With 4 18s I might have to make a road trip when your done!
post #132 of 300
Thread Starter 
I will encourage that
post #133 of 300
Looking good. Glad to see another IB build.
post #134 of 300
I love clean wiring jobs. Mine is a mess and I keep telling myself it needs re-done...
post #135 of 300
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by stockmonkey2000 View Post

Looking good. Glad to see another IB build.

Thanks Stock, I can't wait to see what it can do How is yours doing? Ever feel like it's not enough? (I assume that's a dumb question but had to ask)

Quote:
Originally Posted by smakovits View Post

I love clean wiring jobs. Mine is a mess and I keep telling myself it needs re-done...

Wiring is fun to neaten as long as you have room to work, tight spaces suck :P
post #136 of 300
Thread Starter 
Just a little update for those of you that are following along...

No pictures at the moment but for now I just about finished my backer boxes for my can lights and used Silenseal to seal around my surround speaker cavity's in the wall. Tomorrow my buddy is coming over to help install clips and channels, almost drywall time!!
post #137 of 300
Chris,
You're doing good work. Clips and channels go quickly. You will be happy when you start drywall since it will start to look like a real room.
post #138 of 300
Thread Starter 
Thanks Andreas, I'm almost ready for DW but I'm stuck at what kind of moisture barrier to put up. Should I put thin rigid foam insulation against the concrete first, then R13 and then plastic sheathing? My problem lies in my framing, my 2x4's are right against the concrete (no no I heard, bu too late to properly fix) so I can't completely cover the concrete with rigid foam so my next idea is to install ridid foam inbetween joists, then R13 followed by plastic. Any comments?

EDIT: Just about all of the clips are installed. I need to order a few more due to the fact that each run of furring channel will have a total length of 18' and could only find 10' sections so I need to splice together 6 runs and need a clip on each joist straddleing the splice :-/
post #139 of 300
Is your framing touching the concrete? If so, this isn't good from a moisture/mold or a sound isolation standpoint. What I did was put 1" rigid foam against the concrete and then frame 1" away from that. Then fiberglass is put in the cavity. Plastic sheet is not recommended because it will trap moisture into the FG. The foam prevents warm, moist air from contacting the cold concrete and condensing. Spray foam works even better, but is more expensive and less even in depth so you'll be adding a couple of inches of depth.

Is there no way you can remove the Tapcons/DC04s, trim the length of the wall, and redo the Tapcons/DC04s? I know you think you are almost at DW stage, but it might not take that long depending on what you have going on with the framing.

You shouldn't need extra clips since you connect the two lengths of channels with 3-6" overlap (close to a clip) and 4 metal screws.
post #140 of 300
Thread Starter 
I'm not running DC04's or anything similar, just the 2x4's right to the ceiling and floor. But, my riser is already built so it won't be easy to redo the walls that are against concrete. If I have no choice but to leave the studs where they are, should I at least start by putting rigid foam against the concrete in between the studs? Should I try to squirt spray foam behind the studs? What are your thoughts?
post #141 of 300
Quote:
Originally Posted by Digital_Chris View Post


Hey, looking so far good man. Can you tell me what the dimensions are for the boxes you built for the can lights. I'm not sure how big to make my boxes. Do you stuff insulation inside the boxes or just leave them lined with drywall?

Thanks!
post #142 of 300
Quote:
Originally Posted by ragged View Post

Hey, looking so far good man. Can you tell me what the dimensions are for the boxes you built for the can lights. I'm not sure how big to make my boxes. Do you stuff insulation inside the boxes or just leave them lined with drywall?

Thanks!

All found here http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/...lation-web.pdf

great site to browse and gain info.
post #143 of 300
If the studs are even 1/4" off the concrete I would put expanding foam behind them. I would use the window formulation because it won't bow the studs out like the regular will. I would use 1" or 3/4" rigid foam between the studs also and then FG on top. You will be good to go for the mold.

The only thing is that your DD/GG will not be decoupled on the walls since you are not using DC04s (and your studs are anchored to the concrete with the foam). You might consider putting clips and channels on the walls so that high frequencies wont travel through conduction from your wall studs to the joists and to the rest of the house. The clips/channels are easy to do as you found out and not that expensive considering you are doing DD/GG/FG/silenseal already. Maybe call Ted and see what he thinks...?
post #144 of 300
[quote=Digital_Chris;20956988]Thanks Stock, I can't wait to see what it can do How is yours doing? Ever feel like it's not enough? (I assume that's a dumb question but had to ask)

I actually have not even fired mine up yet. I've been meaning to hook something up but it is a lot of dragging equipment out of boxes and such to hook it up. I hope to get the amp hooked up so I can at least see what the output is like and make sure all the drivers are working. There is so much on my list to do and so little time.
post #145 of 300
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ragged View Post

Hey, looking so far good man. Can you tell me what the dimensions are for the boxes you built for the can lights. I'm not sure how big to make my boxes. Do you stuff insulation inside the boxes or just leave them lined with drywall?
Thanks!

Thank you sir! I actually didn't use the design from the sound proofing company. I went with a different design I found because I already had 4 of the IC rated lights and didn't want to buy new ones and discard those so I went with a style that fit right around my current lights, they came out well, drywall was a pain but ehh

Also, if I went with the sound proofing company's design, they would have been too big I think, at least for my front wall cavity's.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

If the studs are even 1/4" off the concrete I would put expanding foam behind them. I would use the window formulation because it won't bow the studs out like the regular will. I would use 1" or 3/4" rigid foam between the studs also and then FG on top. You will be good to go for the mold.

The only thing is that your DD/GG will not be decoupled on the walls since you are not using DC04s (and your studs are anchored to the concrete with the foam). You might consider putting clips and channels on the walls so that high frequencies wont travel through conduction from your wall studs to the joists and to the rest of the house. The clips/channels are easy to do as you found out and not that expensive considering you are doing DD/GG/FG/silenseal already. Maybe call Ted and see what he thinks...?

I've actually been talking with Ted and John Hile about this, I decided not to decouple the walls because of how narrow the room already is and didn't want to loose another inch from each side because my pathways are already narrow vurry tight :/

Some of the joists are 1/8"-3/16" away but some are right against the concrete so what do I do? Just spray in the spots that I can? I think that's my best bet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Digital_Chris View Post

Thanks Stock, I can't wait to see what it can do How is yours doing? Ever feel like it's not enough? (I assume that's a dumb question but had to ask)

I actually have not even fired mine up yet. I've been meaning to hook something up but it is a lot of dragging equipment out of boxes and such to hook it up. I hope to get the amp hooked up so I can at least see what the output is like and make sure all the drivers are working. There is so much on my list to do and so little time.

Aww bummer, I can't wait to get mine up and running, I'm very anxious to see what it can do!
post #146 of 300
Thread Starter 
Well, not too much has been done since my last update. I did finish the backer boxes (9 total) and plan to put them up wednesday afternoon, it's gonna SUCK! Wish me luck

In the mean time I need to find a place for thin rigid foam insulation, any recommendations?
post #147 of 300
I'd go to HD - I found the best prices there. Although you might also want to try Marjam or Kamco if you have them in your area.

www.kamconewengland.com
www.marjam.com
post #148 of 300
Thread Starter 
Thanks Benji, I'll shoot to my local HD tomrrow and see what I can come up with, I'll also check out the ones you mentioned although they don't sound too familiar.

Thanks
post #149 of 300
Thread Starter 
Well, HD carry's what I'm looking for at a fair price. I will probably pick some up in the next day or two.

In the mean time, I did get 6 of my backer boxes for my can lights mounted, everything went smoother than anticipated

My buddy and I made a jig to hold the box in place while we screwed in the IB3 clips, I will post pictures soon. Today we will hang the last 3 boxes for lights above the screen.

Also, since my boxes were fairly small and "light" I only installed each box with 2 IB3 clips. Once the drywall is up and Silensealed / screwed to the backer boxes, they won't be going anywhere

Stay tuned

P.S. My plan for insulation goes as followed... 3/4" pink rigid foam glue to my concrete between my 16" OC joists (unfortunately, I can't get behind my joists so I'll have to live with that), I will seal where the foam meets the 2x4's with a little Silenseal, followed by R13 fiberglass with the paper on the outside? and then a 4mil plastic vapor barrier on top of that (on the warm side of the room). Sound ok? Because I have no idea, this is the best I can come up with after all of my research :-/
post #150 of 300
I would use expanding foam to seal between the foam and your studs. It is much easier and will seal better. The paper on the FG does not matter, but you can staple it to the studs with it facing into the room. I would skip the 4mil vapor barrier. The foam will act as insulation and as a vapor barrier. From what I've read, using 4mil plastic in the basement is just a recipe for mold growth on your FG and studs since it prevents the space from drying to the inside.

http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...ding-basements
http://www.nlcpr.com/Mold.php
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