"Shh, No Talking" Home Theater... - Page 2

What is the rationale for doing a separated stud wall with dd/gg next to a concrete wall? STC for six or so inches of concrete is about equal to most of the staggered stud dd/gg construction techniques and is probably much superior at frquencies below the STC measurements. I'm sure the extra mile always helps some, but how much and at what expense? Especially in this case where space is at a premium, the decoupled wall will not be able to support a decoupled ceiling, and by far the weakest link in the room will be the ceiling. Overall, how much can be gained from a tiny improvement on only some of the rooms boundaries?

Weakest link in that due to height constraints you can't really construct a separate, second, isolated ceiling even if you wanted. As in the room inside a room concept. However you could potentially do so for all four walls if desired. My point is why go through the trouble of a room in a room construction if you can't do it for all room boundaries. And my other question is if room in a room is necessary for a solid concrete wall.

I would give Ted a call as he/they know better than I. The walls are connected to the joists as they are now, so you will get sound conducted up through the house. That is why decoupling is good.

No one does true room in room anymore, it seems. We are all using clips/channels on the ceiling and DC-04s to decouple the walls. The biggest expense is the GG, so why not spring for the extra $300-400 for the clips/channel/DC-04s and do it right? You are going to do all the work of DD anyway?

Chris,

I'd definitely do clips and dd/gg on the ceiling and any freestanding stud walls. Sorry fir the confusion. The ceiling height will be fine and I realize it is improved over the prior drip ceiling. I just don't think you have the height to do a second isolated ceiling, ie another set of ceiling joists with clear space below the existing joists. You'd lose at least 8" of height, maybe 10.

But no one was suggesting that. What was suggested was a stud wall separated from existing concrete walls and I questioned the necessity.

More importantly, what's the deal with the light bulb in this picture? It looks like 3 bulbs.

-Suntan

Where would you be putting the IB sub if you plan on doing this - How much space do you have for it - I think it would be great if you have the room for it.

Excellent plan. I would do the same if it wasn't for lack of sound proofing. You should have plenty of bass! I'll have to visit when you have it done. Which 18s?

I agree

Sounds good- I'm using the Fi IB18's in my build. I'll be watching your progress.

Those drivers are not available anymore, but should be sometime when Blueprint offers them again.

Nobody knows when they will be available. They should have already been: http://www.homeaudioforum.net/topic/...e-print-audio/

Congratulations on the progress you've made! What AT screen have you decided to go with? I have been looking at the Seymour screens. I really like their pricing and am impressed with their published audio specs. I just wish I could demo one first!

Have you ordered or decided on your seating? I like the looks of those chairs you posted earlier.

I have the Seymour AT screen. You can get a 8.5" x 11" sample shipped to you for free. Mount it over a speaker and see if you can tell the difference! You can also project onto it to see what type of brightness you get. I have a 135" screen with it (and love it).

Chris, I am making my own door with 2 pieces of 3/4" ply with GG between. It depends on how you want it to look. I will have something decorative on both sides, so no worries for me. For the center, you could do that. It is not typically done, but the tweets really don't need a box anyway, so put the mid(s) in a box and the tweet(s) in a smaller box just for mounting. Sure, they will be separated by a few inches, but there is always some separation even in the same box.

Other options for the door include buying one and then cutting it down to size. If you do not have a standard door opening, I don't see being able to getting around the need to make your own jamb for the door. Prehung doors must come in any number of sizes. I'm sure Home Depot or Lowes can custom order one for you though.

For my door, I'm just cutting two 3/4" thick pieces of ply for the door on the table saw to fit the opening with the jambs. The jamb is just 1 x 6s ripped down for the width of the framing plue drywall. You can look at how hinges are installed on Youtube. You use a chisel. You just have to be careful everything lines up well. I don't know if you are using the automatic door drop and adjustable stops to seal the door, but if you are, then you'll have to modify the frame of a door anyway. Then if you are using DD, your framing will be thicker than a normal pre hung door allows.

Yes, I'm using those handles for my doors. That is, when I can get them installed.

You shouldn't need an external amp (only your AVR) for your LCRs with efficient speakers. I like my TLAHs and I made them for about $30 each. You know they go well over reference. I don't think the mids are available anymore that I used. Also, you need to EQ them which I let Audyssey do for me. I know the Econowaves on the DIY section are well regarded, but depends on your budget. What is your "bank"?