Crestron equipment/programming advice needed - Page 7

My bad. use the last one.

Is one wire of the ribbon cable a different color that the rest and why they call the ribbon "striped"?
If so with the serial adapter in front of you with any writing on it right side up, the stripe goes up/top.

I'm now curious about the program you sent me. It clearly shows pool controls on port C. It also clearly shows nothing on port D (port D open)

I'm also curious about that serial adapter that you have and if it was the one that was original to the working system. Why was it set to 2400 baud???
If all that we've done today does not do it, I would look into sending it back to Jandy for testing and/or replacement cause homeboy, we are there.

I still want a picture of the adapter hooked up with the cover off so I can varify.

Try it without the serial adapter isolator and you did put it back on port C???

OK, flip the ribbon cable. Remember I said "with the writing on the board up put the stripe up" You have the stripe down.

Also, is the isolator adapter also a "null modem" adapter??
If not you need to reverse 2 and 3.
Terminal 2 of the Jandy is RXD and terminal 2 of the (non standard serial port)
of the Pro2 is also RXD

You need TXD to RXD and RXD to TXD
Pin 5 is ground on both.

If you stick around long enough, I think we'll get it today

If it;s to much trouble to swap the pins on the existing cable, Radio shack has null modem cable and null modem adapters Take your pick.
You just need to swap 2 and 3 on one end.

Is that plastic db-9 plug part of the ribbon cable? Anyway flip the ribbon connector at the serial adapter and call that part a day.

You can use your digital multimeter to test that isolator. If your meter has a diode test that beeps when you touch the probes together you can test the adapter for "null". The platic part that holds the pins or sockets in place are numbered. You need good eyes to see the numbers. Touch one probe to pin or socket 2 on one side and pin or socket 3 on the other side. If you get a beep, it's a null adapter. Use it. If you are testing female db9 you can use a paper clip to reach inside. Most probes won't fit into the small hole.

I am willing to keep going with this tonight as long as you are. I'm getting pissed and want to see this work just as much as you.

Tomorrow is another thing. I'm on call tomrrow and may be here or not.
You know how that goes

I will be here all night. I may be over to remote central for a while looking for some IR codes for a programming project I'm working on but I will be back.

I want you to shut off the Jandy and un-plug the Pro2.
With the ribbon cable in the correct position, install the null modem adapter and connect to port C. Power up the Jandy first and wait for the one touch to be up and running than plug in the pro2 and wait for it to re-boot.

Not from here.


Recap

1. We have triple checked and replaced the connection between the Jandy controller and serial adapter, so I think it's safe to say we are good to go right up to the red (J2) connection on the serial adapter.

2. We have confirmed that there is a jumper on (JP4) only.

3. We have set the dip switches per the manual to one adapter set to 9600 baud. Please double check 1-off 2-off 3-on 4-off 5-on 6-on.
As a last resort , just for the heck of it, try switch 1 to the on position. If that does nothing, put it back to off. I'm still curious how that adapter got set to 2400 baud if that's the one that came with the system and why you are showing serial activity on port D when the program you provided shows "pool connections" to port C 9600 baud and port D unused.


I'm 99% sure we have all the wiring correct with port c and d questionable.
Perhaps there has been programming alterations and I don't have the most current.

Last ditch experiment

Shut everything back off re-set dip switches 4, 5 and 6 back to 2400 baud
4-on 5-off 6-on and re-connect serial adapter to port D. Then try that both ways null and straight through.

Question: Did you say in a previous post that if someone presses a button on a tp related to the pool you see the activity on port D? If so, the program I have can't be the latest version.

"Good idea. I will try it as was with null."

Try it both ways, with and without null adapter.

Besides the theater remote, is anything else not working as expected?
When is the programmer supposed to show up?
I really think the version of your program I have is bogus as port D is empty.

In a past thread you asked about the screen material. So today I looked it up again. The screen is a straight off the shelf pt# 84326 which is a 52X92
106 diagonal 1.78: "Matte White" screen. If it isn't matte white, someone re-clothed it.

If you have access to the original owner still and are on good terms with him perhaps he could shed some light on what was connected to what.
You might ask him if he took everything out, does he remember what port the Jandy was working on. You might also want to ask him if he has the router that was configured into the system. It may just be sitting on the floor of his new place unused. I can't tell you how many places I go where there are multiple used routers and switches just sitting there because the new home was already connected. That would (or should) resolve the theater remote problem.

I feel like I own this system now. I want to see it working just as much as you. When will the programmer be going there?

Just curious, Do you have the alarm system connected to port E and do you have control over it?
I have my eye on a thread in another forum about Jandy communication and the need to initialize the serial adapter to get communication back.