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Hey guys...we need a little rallying here... - Page 247

post #7381 of 9857
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChopShop1 View Post

Tell me about it....my budget is hemoraging somethin fierce right now

tongue.gif Wait a minute! You guys have budgets? tongue.gif I always start with a round figure in my head. Then these jokers keep coming up with group buys. biggrin.gif I love this stuff. I am pretty sure my wallet just rolled its eyes at me.
post #7382 of 9857
Quote:
Originally Posted by filtor1 View Post

I am pretty sure my wallet just rolled its eyes at me.

My wallet flinches at me...it can't run, but it can hide if my wife finds it before me. tongue.gif
post #7383 of 9857
I'm happy to say my SEOS 24's arrived safely today, thanks Erich!
post #7384 of 9857
Quote:
Originally Posted by Face2 View Post

I'm happy to say my SEOS 24's arrived safely today, thanks Erich!


=/ im still waiting to pay for mine but for some reason he already shipped the bms 4594 its like he playing with my heart the bms arrive tomorrow and all i can do is look at them .
post #7385 of 9857
Quote:
Originally Posted by cookieattk View Post

=/ im still waiting to pay for mine but for some reason he already shipped the bms 4594 its like he playing with my heart the bms arrive tomorrow and all i can do is look at them .

I might have shipped your SEOS-24's yesterday, or maybe a couple days ago. I'd have to check. This is a busy time of year that should slow down for me in about a week or so. For now, it's rush rush rush to get things shipped. I'll figure out the pricing later. I know most of you guys, so I'm not too worried. Replying to emails and PM's is hit and miss right now, and I apologize for that.



Hopefully I'll have time to talk more about the current preorder this weekend. There's more to it than just the SEOS-15 if all goes well. I'll go into more details later.
post #7386 of 9857
My fusion 8 didn't come with a crossover schematic is there any way I can get one online
post #7387 of 9857
mine was inside one of the port tubes. i thought it was left out as well
post #7388 of 9857
If you don't find it try and pm Jeff Bagby he should be able to provide one and may be quicker then Erich to respond.
post #7389 of 9857
I've been folding up the crossover drawing and putting them in the bottom of the box with all the crossover parts. But I did forget them in one box about a month ago. I caught it and emailed him a copy. If you don't find the sheet, just give me a heads up and I'll get it to you.

Cookieattk, I didn't want to ship those expensive CD's in the same box as the SEOS-24, so they would ship separately. There were a lot of guys that ordered BMS stuff that also had something coming from Poland. I wanted to see if I could package things together, but it didn't work out that way for most people.

The box for the 2 SEOS-24's has a lot of air space inside and I might have been able to get those larger CD's in there. But in order to do that, I would have to fill the entire box up with packing material to hold those CD's in place and keep them from shifting around and getting damaged. For how much they're worth, I thought it made sense to do 2 boxes to be on the safe side.
post #7390 of 9857
Got my 4550s. Thanks Erich!

SEOS-15 preordered, SEOS-12 TD12X getting built this weekend, BMS 4550s arrived. Very productive weekend in audio.

Looking forward to any kits that get put together. A SEOS12 or 15 with BMS 4550 kit + flat pack would be a definite order in the future for me. I can't get enough of these things. I'm hooked.
post #7391 of 9857
What was the size of the box for a pair of SEOS 24's?
post #7392 of 9857
The experimental shipping box was 18" x 18" x 16". They're wrapped in bubble wrap, then taped face to face. I put some strong pallet corner protectors on the edges and they fit right in the box. Basically if you draw a square, the faces of the waveguides fit diagonally in the center of the box.

The experimental shipment worked okay, they were tight, but still had those long corner protectors. Still worried, I moved up to a 20" x 20" x 16" in the end and felt more comfortable. So if you want to calculate shipping to another country, the outer dimensions would get rounded to 21" x 21" x 17". I think they weighed about 25lbs, but they'll likely go by dimensions as well.
post #7393 of 9857
Just curious. Anyone recieved a damaged plastic seos, or managed to damage one? A fellow who dismisses every plastic horn because he thinks its just going to break. I say that the claim is silly, shure there are probably some weak horns... but he dismissed every plastic horn. Seemes to believe the CD will fall off. rolleyes.gif
post #7394 of 9857
I can stand on mine and have no fear of it breaking, if you had it bolted to the box well enough I bet you could mount a 25 pound CD to the back without fear of it falling off. The plastic is heavy duty and 1/4" thick, lets just say it would be almost impossible to accidentally break one.
post #7395 of 9857
you would need a hammer to break one.
post #7396 of 9857
As the other 2 mentioned, it would be nearly impossible to break one under normal (or even abusive) use unless you actually tried to break it. However there has been one damaged during shipping, but it was 100% my fault, and quite stupid.

I bubble wrap the fronts before shipping. I wasn't thinking straight and put the waveguide down on top of some hard stuff. Well, I do that all the time, but always leave room for the cardboard box to get smashed down a bit during shipping. But with this package I used a cardboard box that wasn't quite tall enough. So the rear of the flange was touching the inside top of the box, basically having to hold up every package that they dropped or sat on top of it. It could have been under 400lbs of other boxes. Or they could have dropped one of my 60lb flat packs directly on it while loading them in the truck.


But as long as it's not used as a 400lb jack stand like that one was, the waveguide is plenty strong for a compression driver. I had a 5lb CD bolted on the back and screwed to a speaker enclosure that tumbled end over end from a good 4-5 feet in the air. Nothing broke. That was good enough for me. biggrin.gif

If you smacked one with a hammer, I would guess the matte would crack before the gloss would. The matte uses a harder plastic, the gloss uses a smoother plastic that would likely have a bit more bounce back if smacked really hard.
Edited by Erich H - 4/27/13 at 8:33pm
post #7397 of 9857
Erich,

Hope all is well in your most busy time of year.

Just a heads up; a check and some emblems are coming your way via USPS.
Check your PMs for more details...
post #7398 of 9857
Is there anything easier to work with than bondo but less likely to crack then wood putty you can use for flattening the edges of the speakers? Is wood putty really that bad or maybe plastic wood?
post #7399 of 9857
Some people recommend drywall mud.
post #7400 of 9857
I've used both drywall mud and bondo with success. Drywall mud is very easy to sand, so you have to go easy with a power sander (or you'll oversand and it will show as a recess, or you'll need to recover it) or just use a block sander - and its more susceptible to denting. Bondo dries rock hard, so harder to sand, but not bad if you use an orbital sander. The 5 minute stuff isn't great to work with, dries too fast unless you're just filling a few holes; 20 minute stuff gives you longer to work with. I haven't had much luck with wood filler / putty, I have a hard time getting it to stick and it was kind of "grainy" when I used it before - but maybe that was just my luck.
post #7401 of 9857
Use Durabond, rather than drywall mud.
Edited by AV Science Sales 5 - 4/28/13 at 7:49pm
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post #7402 of 9857
Durhams rock hard water putty is good and hard too. Conventional paints stick to it very well.

Its powder so you mix consistency you want and the rest has a shelflife of forever.

IDK how duratex would stick to it tho... I might try that out soon.
post #7403 of 9857
Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

Durhams rock hard water putty is good and hard too. Conventional paints stick to it very well.

Its powder so you mix consistency you want and the rest has a shelflife of forever.

IDK how duratex would stick to it tho... I might try that out soon.

I thought I read somewhere that Duratex does not stick to Durhams very well, might be a good idea to ask the makers of Duratex on that one.
post #7404 of 9857
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

Use Durabond, rather than drywall mud.

So this is setting type joint compound?

I think I have some of that around
post #7405 of 9857
Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

Durhams rock hard water putty is good and hard too. Conventional paints stick to it very well.

Its powder so you mix consistency you want and the rest has a shelflife of forever.

IDK how duratex would stick to it tho... I might try that out soon.

Yes, if you are not doing a primer, you need to confirm, that what you use adheres well. Easier to use than bondo, and much tougher than drywall mud.
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post #7406 of 9857
Just thought I would post some preliminary sketches of my modified Zephyr-12. I got one of the first kits, but progress has been slow:(. I'm building a tall version with the 40" baffle and am using a single large port with flare. I have almost all wood cut, and any comments appreciated, since I'll start building the boxes in the next week or so. In particular, I was wondering if I should add a little bracing for the side panels. Total depth is 10.5", and port is 4" I.D. PVC with 1" radius flares made from MDF. I plan to keep approximately the same tuning.

John


post #7407 of 9857
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsgjsg View Post

Just thought I would post some preliminary sketches of my modified Zephyr-12. I got one of the first kits, but progress has been slow:(. I'm building a tall version with the 40" baffle and am using a single large port with flare. I have almost all wood cut, and any comments appreciated, since I'll start building the boxes in the next week or so. In particular, I was wondering if I should add a little bracing for the side panels. Total depth is 10.5", and port is 4" I.D. PVC with 1" radius flares made from MDF. I plan to keep approximately the same tuning.

John



Very cool John! I have been thinking about how great some seos towers would be in the living room. I'm not gonna lie, I'm a BIG fan of overkill bracing...If those beauties were mine, I'd brace at least every 8 inches in each direction. How do you plan to finish them??
post #7408 of 9857
chopshop,

Excellent!!
I almost went with towers but got lazy - I'm subscribed!!
post #7409 of 9857
i also agree very cool, my next build that im starting to plan now is going to be towers with the SEOS 15
post #7410 of 9857
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sibuna View Post

i also agree very cool, my next build that im starting to plan now is going to be towers with the SEOS 15

The tricky part is the matching center that fits anywhere under a tv. Even if offset a bit, It would still be rediculously tall...that's the only thing that has held me back so far. What are you going to use for woofers/cds??
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