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Hey guys...we need a little rallying here... - Page 257

post #7681 of 9844
Alibaba and Aliexpress list some very good companies. I've ordered lots of very nice aquarium equipment off of it with no issues. The clone amp companies are also listed there. It all depends on the company you pick. Some are great, some are horrible.
post #7682 of 9844
Erich and Bhazard, I guess you're both right. Personally, I have never ordered something directly from China, but I do know stories from people (both private and business) that had (very) bad experiences in buying directly from China and some who were lucky to find a reliable source. Quality control seems a main issue and from 2 audio manufacturers here in Holland I learned that you need people over there to look after it.
There are a couple of companies that produce OEM products for the big boys like JBL, Peavey, etc. But they are likely to only except orders of at least 500 or 1000 units.
Edited by Ro808 - 7/12/13 at 7:25am
post #7683 of 9844
Did I miss the pics of the plastic sample SEOS15's?
post #7684 of 9844
Quote:
Originally Posted by bhazard View Post

Alibaba and Aliexpress list some very good companies. I've ordered lots of very nice aquarium equipment off of it with no issues. The clone amp companies are also listed there. It all depends on the company you pick. Some are great, some are horrible.

Ordering a couple things here and there probably wouldn't be an issue, especially if the products weren't audio related. There's a big difference in those industries. But order a fairly large number and all bets are off.

The clone amps are fine for guys buying one or two. But the failure rates on some seem to be higher than I would want if I was ordering 100. Plus there are quite a few companies selling those same clone amps. So who makes the correct one? Just because they say they're company X doesn't mean they really are.

You would be VERY surprised that well over 60% of those "companies" are just college kids that list products, then go to the nearest factory and pick up their rejects and send them your way. Trust me, I know a guy from one of those pages and he said that's pretty much what the site caters to. If you want just a few items, chances are, you might get a decent reject that is hard to compare to the real deal. But order a large number, and you could get a lot bad parts.

You'll notice that when you want just a sample, they might charge you more.That's because they go to the manufacturer and buy one that's not a reject and add in a couple extra dollars, or make it up on shipping fees. It might test okay, not great, but okay. If you put in an order for more, chances are, you're going to get a bunch of rejects or products thrown together. I have a lot of different drivers like that before I finally just gave up.

You simply have no idea who you're dealing with, no matter what they tell you, or who they say they work for. Or how the quality is at any given time unless you are working with the manufacturer. The good manufacturers don't have websites like that because they can't deal with people wanting just a few parts here and there.
post #7685 of 9844
Quote:
Originally Posted by btinindy View Post

Did I miss the pics of the plastic sample SEOS15's?


I took some, Gloss and Matte with the fiberglass in the middle, and comparison shots with SEOS-12.
I really like the matte finish, just looks cool.




post #7686 of 9844
Erich, I completely agree. In my search for the driver I came across some 'e-shops' that really seem to be made in an afternoon by some kids and had not been updated for years.
So one better be very careful before ordering blind from these sites.


Since I am posting on this site, I might as well share my 'project' for the near future.
This afternoon I visited a friend who's a professional woodworker.
He recently finished his latest project and I will pick up his old sub cabinets and intent to mount a SEOS-15 on top of it.

To give you an impression, some pics of the cabinets. The wooden Tractix horns are handmade.

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Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, R1.1.1.||B2||T0JKX0lEPTVjYTFhYjFlYTU1YTAyOTEwNTFiZWI3NjEzNDdmZjA1MWNhZDFkNWQzZjMxfHxTRUxMRVJfTkFNRT1lY2dub2N8fE9SSUdJTkFMX0VCQVlfUVVBTElUWV9TQ09SRT00fHxDUkVBVElPTl9EQVRFPTYvMjYvMTMgNDo0NiBBTQ==
post #7687 of 9844
Erich, is it possible to order a SEOS-15 without screw holes? Since I will use a bracket and they'll certainly look much better without holes.
post #7688 of 9844
Stunning Ro808!

The fiberglass version has no holes, but costs more. A lot more.
post #7689 of 9844
You can always fill them and respray the entire guide.
post #7690 of 9844
the matte looks very matte, Matt tongue.gif
post #7691 of 9844
That's my special painting technique.

The matte finish that comes from the manufacturer is okay, but I've been experimenting to make it look better.
post #7692 of 9844
Yeah, the one you painted looks good Erich.
post #7693 of 9844
Cool. The matte SEOS 12's that I have still have a shine to them. Dull is a better description. They still look good but that one you painted looks much better.
post #7694 of 9844


I dented the dust cap on my delta 10 for the fusion 10 max and can't pull out the divet.

I doubt that I'll be able to pull off the replacement dust cap kits.

WHat are my options? Is leavong it dented ok?
post #7695 of 9844
Have you tried the vacuum trick?

If you have I'll run some tests with some dust cap modifications to mine and find out how much the cap changes things. Usually not a problem, just a visual problem.
post #7696 of 9844
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtg90 View Post

I took some, Gloss and Matte with the fiberglass in the middle, and comparison shots with SEOS-12.
I really like the matte finish, just looks cool

Thank you for those! They look great as I expected they would! Can't wait to get them. That's the last piece of the puzzle for my build. Looks like I can start making the enclosures!
post #7697 of 9844
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

Have you tried the vacuum trick?

If you have I'll run some tests with some dust cap modifications to mine and find out how much the cap changes things. Usually not a problem, just a visual problem.

Seems scary to put a vacuum on it. Never heard of this trick
post #7698 of 9844
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtg90 View Post

I took some, Gloss and Matte with the fiberglass in the middle, and comparison shots with SEOS-12.
I really like the matte finish, just looks cool.





Quick question for the group and Erich in particular...

Does it make sense to delete the screw holes for these? Seems like an easy option to add in the field if needed and would lead to some cleaner install if other means or securing the waveguide were used. The fiberglass look much sleeker without the screw holes.
post #7699 of 9844


Will setting joint compound seal cracks like this ?

You can blow air through to the other side on this one
post #7700 of 9844
Goonstopher, You could try the 'dustsucker trick' (vacuumcleaner), preferably one with variable power control and you might as well need someone to assist you
If have done this at least ten times and most dents have been removed by using this method.

You carefully place the the mouth on the dented part of the cap. You might put some isolation tape aroud the mouth of the vac. cleaner in order not to cause more damage to the cap.
Now you (or better your assistant) switch on the cleaner, while you keep the mouth on the dent. Step by step you increase the power level and when you feel/see the cone being properly sucked (pardon my french), this does not necessarily mean 'full power', you switch off the cleaner while you still keep the mouth on the dented part.
After the cleaner has become silent, you take the mouth away and with a little luck, the dent is gone.
Edited by Ro808 - 7/13/13 at 12:21pm
post #7701 of 9844

You can also try a piece of tape. Place it on the dent and pull away slowly. I have also used a vacuum cleaner in the past and has worked well.

post #7702 of 9844
I have used the tape trick as well, and with this driver it should be no problem, because the cap is hardcoated.
With paper caps I have had issues with the softcoating being pulled off by removing the tape.
Edited by Ro808 - 7/13/13 at 12:23pm
post #7703 of 9844
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ro808 View Post

I have used the tape trick as well, and with this driver it should be no problem, because the cap is hardcoated.
With paper caps I have had issues with the softcoating being pulled off by removing the tape.

Tape didnt budge it. Maybe its my technique dunno

My vacuum isnt variable so I might need to leave it dented...

For the leaks I think ill shove some wood putty in then hit it with joint compound. Once the duratex gies on I guess it will be ok

This really is proof that even the easiest project can be messed up
post #7704 of 9844
Quote:
Originally Posted by goonstopher View Post

Tape didnt budge it. Maybe its my technique dunno

My vacuum isnt variable so I might need to leave it dented...

For the leaks I think ill shove some wood putty in then hit it with joint compound. Once the duratex gies on I guess it will be ok

This really is proof that even the easiest project can be messed up

I have done this by myself a few times with a shop vac that did not has variable suction. Hold end of vac with your index finger making up one side of the seal. That way you can control how much suction is applied and can remove the hose.
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post #7705 of 9844
question to Eric. I know you were backlogged before, but If I order the Fusion 10's you have a ROUGH estimate on when they'd ship?? (just trying to figure everything out before I order)

Mike
post #7706 of 9844


How does this look for a fusion 8 crossover?

I look at it again and think I reversed everything on the tweeter (left) because of the reverse polarity. It looks like I wired the whole negative along the positive track.

Can that we worked with or do i need to take them out and fix them?

Would it be ok to just wire them with non reversed polarity to make up for this?
Edited by goonstopher - 7/15/13 at 9:32pm
post #7707 of 9844
Hard to tell, but looks fine to me, although your wiring colors are odd. Looks like black is going into the positive for the xo and the woofer.
post #7708 of 9844
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

Hard to tell, but looks fine to me, although your wiring colors are odd. Looks like black is going into the positive for the xo and the woofer.

Looking at it again it looks like I put the negative components on the positive wire for the tweeter
post #7709 of 9844
Ya but if the tweeter is reverse polarity then that's the proper way. What's weird to me is the black going off the positive out for the woofer. And also looks like black going into the positive side of the XO. Otherwise the tweeter looks right actually.
post #7710 of 9844
Can anyone tell me...I see the Karma-8 kit with the DW-774S waveguide listed but have read that there is one with the EOS-8 now. What is the difference between the two? Also, how would these be as rears in a Klipsch Heritage setup? Thanks.
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