or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › Hey guys...we need a little rallying here...
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Hey guys...we need a little rallying here... - Page 260

post #7771 of 9845
Only issue I see is that the two caps on the woofer circuit in the middle of the board you have wired in series and not in parallel like they should be. Everything else with the crossover looks correct, though it looks like you have the wire colors reversed, Black positive/ Red common, which shouldn't be a problem if they all go to the correct terminals.
post #7772 of 9845

I don't have the schematic for that build so I may be wrong here. I found a crossover build someone did so I'm comparing with that.

 

The inductor placement is not the best.

The two capacitors you have wire together should be in parallel. You have them wired in series.

Make sure the ground wire up top is not touching the inductor.

Looks like you held the iron too long on some of the parts, wire looks burned to me.

Use a multimeter to find out if your drivers are not dead by measuring their resistance.

 

post #7773 of 9845
My friend did one for me and sound comes out but he did the inductors the same way. I am not sure what you mean to change. How do I get them to parallel?
post #7774 of 9845
Here is the one that's working but the inductors and in series


Edited by goonstopher - 7/30/13 at 9:08am
post #7775 of 9845

Inductor placement is not causing your "no sound" issue but it can affect the frequency response if not placed properly.

 

You want inductors to be placed like this. 90 degrees to each other and the inductor laying down in line with the inductor that is horizontal. I know it sucks to re-wire everything but if you want to do it right...needs to be re-wired.

 

 

 

 

Notice how the capacitors circled are wired. That is wired in parallel, your capacitors are wired in series.

 

post #7776 of 9845
Lord I'm about to throw them away and give up
post #7777 of 9845
I'd happily pay someone to fix them or start from scratch on new ones
post #7778 of 9845

I believe MTG90 will build crossovers for a fee.


Edited by Mrkazador - 7/28/13 at 1:34pm
post #7779 of 9845
Hey goonstopher. Sorry to hear about all your troubles. I think they look half decent. The no sound is probably not your xo unless there's a short in there somewhere. And I wouldn't worry about the inductor placement right now. You have them spread out nicely and really, it only changes the inductor value a small amount. And you can fix the capacitors later.

Focus on the easy stuff. Put a battery to the woofer terminals. Now put it to the speaker terminals (don't put it to the tweeter terminals). Does the woofer go "pop" and push the cone out? Do that and let us know what's up.

If you'd rather, you can mail the XOers to MTG90 and he does really nice XO work and his pricing is really fair. And you can rest easy knowing its bang on.
post #7780 of 9845
Mr Kazador, he's got all those things right.

1. Is out to tweeter, no series resistor, just a shunt resistor.
2. I paralleled two caps to get the value I wanted.
3. You're sorta right, see my comment below.
S. that's in parallel for power handling. Those resistors are right out in front and all the power going to the tweeters has to pass through those resistors. I wanted 20 watts power handling there. Unlike the shunt resistor that has a lot of attenuated power in the cap and dumped out the shunt coil. So I only needed 5 watts. Handly any power makes its way through that resistor.

The only funny thing is the cap on the upper right. That goes to the right of the inductor, but might be wired that way, hard to tell as I'm on my phone.
post #7781 of 9845

Ahh, I was looking at it the wrong way...lol redface.gif

 

I deleted my post.

 

 

Looking over it again, I think this board is wired correctly as long as that single cap is wired after the second inductor.


Edited by Mrkazador - 7/28/13 at 1:36pm
post #7782 of 9845
Quote:
Originally Posted by goonstopher View Post

I'd happily pay someone to fix them or start from scratch on new ones


MTG90 will assemble them for you if needed. He's working on a bunch of other models right now which will be uploaded to the site in the next few days. I've got assembled crossovers for the Fusion-8 and Fusion-12 right, and the other models will be done shortly.
post #7783 of 9845
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

MTG90 will assemble them for you if needed. He's working on a bunch of other models right now which will be uploaded to the site in the next few days. I've got assembled crossovers for the Fusion-8 and Fusion-12 right, and the other models will be done shortly.

Do share Eric. smile.gif
post #7784 of 9845
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

MTG90 will assemble them for you if needed. He's working on a bunch of other models right now which will be uploaded to the site in the next few days. I've got assembled crossovers for the Fusion-8 and Fusion-12 right, and the other models will be done shortly.

I need a couple for my fusion 8's also.

I sort of wish I went with all Fusion 8's all around but oh well
post #7785 of 9845
Hi goonstopher:

I was looking at you two photographs, and I see a possibility why your crossover is not working.

Where the black wire that comes in at the lower left hand corner going to the first horizontal coil and also to the resistor. I have a question?

I see that you used the wire from the coil to connect to the black wire, and resistor. My question is: Did you scrape the insulation off that wire before you soldered it? That shinny reddish brown coating on that coil wire is insulating varnish, and if you don't scrape or sand it before you solder it, it won't make connection.

The coils usually has the ends scraped and tinned with solder when you first get them, but if you cut the wire shorter where the reddish stuff is, you need to scrape it off before soldering them to make connection.

If you have access to some ones volt/ohm meter, put it on the incoming red and black wires, and if it is completely open, then that is you problem.

If your reading is a dead short, ( "0" ohms) , then it is either the two caps between the two horizontal coils that are suppose to be in parallel that are shorted, or the capacitor above the top horizontal coil that is shorted. Over heating the caps while soldering them could cause them to short out.

I don't think that the caps on the right side of your board are shorted, because if they are, you would get sound out of your wave guide.

I really don't think that you are making connection where that black wire is coming in.

I hope this helps!

Good luck!
Edited by Troglidite - 7/29/13 at 6:14pm
post #7786 of 9845
Troglidlite,

Looks like a damn good call.
post #7787 of 9845
Wow! I forgot about that but yes I did cut a wire and scraped off some red. Maybe I didn't take enough off.

The other 2 speakers are working... Properly I hope but have no way of knowing for sure
post #7788 of 9845
Whats the deal with controlled directivity speakers and Audyssey? Can someone direct me to a discussion on their compatibility? Do most of you use Audyssey with your CD speakers? I use the non-pro version so the Audyssey notch is not adjustable in my AVR software.

Thoughts?
post #7789 of 9845
Nick,

I am a long ways from being an Audyssey expert. I invite anyone here that is to correct me. But I would think that Audyssey (and any other room correction IP for that matter) should actually work better with controlled directivity loudspeakers.

_________________
Best Regards,
Carl Huff
post #7790 of 9845
Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

Whats the deal with controlled directivity speakers and Audyssey? Can someone direct me to a discussion on their compatibility? Do most of you use Audyssey with your CD speakers? I use the non-pro version so the Audyssey notch is not adjustable in my AVR software.

Thoughts?

I am also interested in seeing any related responses to this topic
post #7791 of 9845
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl_Huff View Post

Nick,

I am a long ways from being an Audyssey expert. I invite anyone here that is to correct me. But I would think that Audyssey (and any other room correction IP for that matter) should actually work better with controlled directivity loudspeakers.

_________________
Best Regards,
Carl Huff

 

Another non expert here and I would have to agree with that.

 

One thing I noticed with my speakers is that the high end (20khz) has a steep roll off so Audyssey compensates by boosting 20khz considerably, I think it was 8 or 10db. Shouldn't be a problem plus I don't use Audyssey Flat.

post #7792 of 9845
FWIW, I found my crossover needed the CD polarity switched for correct summation through crossover. I found a reverse null situation at the crossover frequency which was corrected by swapping polarity on the tweeter. My Delta 12LFA was a variant of the Karma-12 crossover, so I would recommend that design be double checked for the same error.

The same reverse null situation has been measured and corrected in a couple of the Acoustic Elegance crossover designs as well which may or may not be a related error, IDK.
post #7793 of 9845
Website help needed.

Anyone here know much about a site created using Wordpress? There's some free audio stuff in it for the help. biggrin.gif
post #7794 of 9845
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

Website help needed.

Anyone here know much about a site created using Wordpress? There's some free audio stuff in it for the help. biggrin.gif

Hey Erich, Pro web developer here for a fortune 500 (and have my own software company) feel free to drop me a PM... Lots of experience with wordpress and I've been a web developer for 10 years :-)
post #7795 of 9845
Thread Starter 
props ac!
post #7796 of 9845
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

Website help needed.

Anyone here know much about a site created using Wordpress? There's some free audio stuff in it for the help. biggrin.gif

I'm no web developer but if you find yourself needing any database/SQL help, I'd donate my time to the cause.

I am anxiously awaiting SEOS 10 designs. How long until they get here?
post #7797 of 9845
I've had a couple guys offer to help with the new website, so hopefully we can get things moving.......because I stink at it.

It's been about a year or so since the current one has been up, but it's just there to help people order the DIY kits. Obviously it was put up pretty quick. rolleyes.gif

What we need is a site that just has information and photos for each design, flat pack, compression driver, etc. That would allow me to put up more information on each kit and cut down on the number of questions. I was also hoping to get some photo galleries set up so people could send me photos to upload. Plus have pages specifically for each speaker designer.

Of course the current site will stay there so people can still order the kits. I don't want to change that right now because it works okay. It's far from perfect, but at least it works.
post #7798 of 9845
There are a few good solutions that allow you to integrate magento and word press, two very good systems.
post #7799 of 9845
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

I've had a couple guys offer to help with the new website, so hopefully we can get things moving.......because I stink at it.

It's been about a year or so since the current one has been up, but it's just there to help people order the DIY kits. Obviously it was put up pretty quick. rolleyes.gif

What we need is a site that just has information and photos for each design, flat pack, compression driver, etc. That would allow me to put up more information on each kit and cut down on the number of questions. I was also hoping to get some photo galleries set up so people could send me photos to upload. Plus have pages specifically for each speaker designer.

Of course the current site will stay there so people can still order the kits. I don't want to change that right now because it works okay. It's far from perfect, but at least it works.

Hey Erich, didn't realize you were looking to do a totally new site... I sent you a PM with my email address... In addition to doing all development/maintenance work I would be more than happy to even donate server space on my company's cloud instance at no cost smile.gif
post #7800 of 9845
Sorry to switch gears here;
But a question regarding my SEOS12/DNA360 - Deltalight II mains.

I built these last winter (and a Big Mal center). I recently upgraded my AVR to a 4311. After running Audessy XT32; I was surprised to see my mains XO being set to 150Hz. My Big Mal center channel was crossed over at 80Hz.
So after getting some experience with REW; I ran some in-room close MIC sweeps of all 3 front SEOS speakers. For the sweeps below; my MIC (a UMIK-1) was positioned 36" directly in front of the baffle centered vertically between the waveguide and the woofer. The following sweeps are troublesome for the mains, but are also consistent with what Audessy applied.

Front Right:


Front Left


Big Mal center:


Any thoughts for the unusually high low-end roll-off for the mains?

(the boxes are lined with a single layer of 3.5" pink fluffy stuff)

How about the dip at the crossover - any concerns or is that fairly normal?
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: DIY Speakers and Subs
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › Hey guys...we need a little rallying here...