How much crosstalk (ghosting) has your 3D TV? Test it!

Mitsubishi 82838 DLP
I just downloaded the file and dragged it into stereoscopic player and viewed it in a 3D window and got these results.

Left eye open/right closed -> top half screen smaller visible number -> 1
Left eye open/right closed -> bottom half screen smaller visible number -> NOTHING
Right eye open/left closed -> top half screen smaller visible number -> NOTHING
Right eye open/left closed -> bottom half screen smaller visible number -> 1

Viewing it full screen yielded the same results.

Samsung UN40C7000 with rechargeable Samsung glasses:
tested exactly the same way as the Mits DLP

Left eye open/right closed -> top half screen smaller visible number -> 1
Left eye open/right closed -> bottom half screen smaller visible number -> 1
Right eye open/left closed -> top half screen smaller visible number -> 1
Right eye open/left closed -> bottom half screen smaller visible number -> 1

Score: Mitsubishi 100 percent, Samsung 0 percent

What about your VT20????

I think I put it in the garage somewhere since I find it pretty much useless.

3D TV model: Samsung PN58C7000 58" Plasma
3D glasses model: Samsung original battery powered.
Firmware: 1032 view from 8=10 feet.
Cell light 20, constract 95, brightness 55

Left eye open/right closed -> top half screen smaller visible number -> 1
Left eye open/right closed -> bottom half screen smaller visible number -> 5
Right eye open/left closed -> top half screen smaller visible number -> 5
Right eye open/left closed -> bottom half screen smaller visible number -> 1

If I change the constract from 95 to 85 and brightnes from 50 to 65 it goes to at least 1-10 10-1. cell light from 20 to 15 it goes to 1-18 18-1

O.K.
Since you asked, I decided to drag it from the garage into the theater and test it.
It was in "Cinema mode"
Left eye open/right closed -> top half screen smaller visible number -> 1
Left eye open/right closed -> bottom half screen smaller visible number -> 13
Right eye open/left closed -> top half screen smaller visible number -> 13
Right eye open/left closed -> bottom half screen smaller visible number -> 1

Wow samsungs suck!!I know cause I have one. This is bad for 3d. Samsungs are the most sold 3dtv right now, and they give the worst performance. Not a lot of impressed consumers out there.

This test looks interesting but could be improved : it only shows absolute black/white contrast. It would be very interesting to see what happens when you use various grey backgrounds all the way up to pure white. It would show the inverse crosstalk that many LCD displays have (and improve the score of other displays a lot, since bright numbers on black background is the worst case scenario for plasma and polarised technology)

Here is one of my displays :
3D display : Zalman Trimon ZM220 computer monitor (2008)
3D glasses : Zalman 3D glasses shipped with the display

This display is a custom Zalman circular polarised 3D interlaced display, compatible with RealD but 45° off angle from RealD standard. The picture is still watchable but ghosting is 50% stronger and changes coulour to purple if used with RealD glasses
Also due to the interlacing of the µpol filter technology, this display has a sweet spot, horizontal view angle is pretty wide but the vertical on is very very narrow, you have to be at the right height otherwise you get total crosstalk. The values reported here are when watched inside the sweet spot

The display is very shiny, crosstalk tends to get hidden behind reflections.
Brightness 50%, Contrast 50%

DARK ROOM (no reflections)
Left eye open/right closed -> top half screen smaller visible number -> 1
Left eye open/right closed -> bottom half screen smaller visible number -> 10
Right eye open/left closed -> top half screen smaller visible number -> 10
Right eye open/left closed -> bottom half screen smaller visible number -> 1

BRIGHT ROOM (lots of reflections)
Left eye open/right closed -> top half screen smaller visible number -> 2
Left eye open/right closed -> bottom half screen smaller visible number -> 20
Right eye open/left closed -> top half screen smaller visible number -> 20
Right eye open/left closed -> bottom half screen smaller visible number -> 2

3D TV model: Sony KDL-60LX900 60'
3D glasses model: Sony original (TDG-BR100B)
Cell light max (unable to change in 3D mode) contrast 97, brightness 47

Left eye open/right closed -> top half screen smaller visible number -> 1
Left eye open/right closed -> bottom half screen smaller visible number -> 15
Right eye open/left closed -> top half screen smaller visible number -> 15
Right eye open/left closed -> bottom half screen smaller visible number -> 1

If I made small change brightness/contrast it goes to 1-17/17-1

Why are samsungs so poor in regards to this test?

@neo,

Did you not see that a Panasonic VT20 and Samsung PN50C680 (same panel as 7000 & 8000 just a bit more featureless) rated the same above?

Granted we do not know anything as to the settings these people used which would help some in comparing how/why they scored the same, 1 to 20 basically in both eyes. And so far the score of 20 is the best short of Nothing that only the DLP sets are getting. And we should not act like DLP has no disadvantages of its own, maybe I am special but I can see the rainbow effect on a 4x speed color wheel when I owned a DLP projector. Most of the time I could only see it when I moved my head quickly, but it surely causes fatigue in its own right, so I explicitly chose plasma 3D over DLP. I would not even want to imagine what the rainbow effect could be like with shutter glasses.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital...nbow_effect.22

Here in a little while I will test my PN50C490 and I will report back.

You may be right, I mainly said that because someone here turned their C680 into an 8000 via the service menu if I recall correctly. I know the 7000 users obviously have been doing it with a lot of success (so if you are a 680 user make sure you confirm this before taking my word on it).

I guess it is possible that maybe the guts & panel are similar enough to work, but not exactly the same.

I had the Mitsubishi and Samsung hooked to my computer at the same time and they were both in checkerboard mode.
I leave Stereoscopic player in checkerboard 3d mode and play 3D in a window normally.
That is what I did here and then I double clicked the 3D window and viewed it full screen.
I never use Nvidia 3D vision because it requires full screen to get 3D.

PN50C490
Left eye open/right closed -> top half screen smaller visible number -> 1
Left eye open/right closed -> bottom half screen smaller visible number -> 6
Right eye open/left closed -> top half screen smaller visible number -> 6
Right eye open/left closed -> bottom half screen smaller visible number -> 1

The room was dimmly lit, so maybe if it was totally black it could have been slightly worse maybe a 5 or a 4. Also the mode and settings did not really seem to have an effect on the results as I expected it to, but at the same time the clip plays for such a short while and then it loops and I have to reset the 3D effect it is difficult to really play with it any when the clip restarts every 10 seconds! *Sorry I forgot I could pause it*

Ok let me update this, because I think I have discovered something that will significantly impact our results on Plasma TVs. I have not yet ran any of the burn in clips on my tv, I was too excited to sit down and watch some stuff for a few hours than to bother with a boring burn in clip.

If you turn your tv on cold and it is in movie picture mode by default or any dark mode then run this test and your results may match a brighter mode such as standard... However if you switch to standard and back to movie mode you will find that movie mode is much worse than what it was previously!! I believe this to be an issue with new sets not having been burned in yet, at least I hope and not some kind of afterglow effect.

I think this explains why some people say that every time they play a movie whether it is the same one or not they feel like they need to tweak their settings. I would say that it is due to the fact that their tv is likely not burned in yet and that its picture quality will be variable until the phosphors have settled more. I noticed this the most the other day when I walked away from the Coraline movie and came back and saw that the samsung screensaver came on and there were burn in like marks all over my set that said "samsung". I was fairly ticked but they went away pretty quick once I started the movie.

oh yea just now when I was in movie mode from the start the ratings were

Movie mode
Left eye open/right closed -> top half screen smaller visible number -> 1
Left eye open/right closed -> bottom half screen smaller visible number -> 7
Right eye open/left closed -> top half screen smaller visible number -> 7
Right eye open/left closed -> bottom half screen smaller visible number -> 1

Standard
Left eye open/right closed -> top half screen smaller visible number -> 1
Left eye open/right closed -> bottom half screen smaller visible number -> 7
Right eye open/left closed -> top half screen smaller visible number -> 7
Right eye open/left closed -> bottom half screen smaller visible number -> 1

Standard -> (Back to movie) Movie
Standard
Left eye open/right closed -> top half screen smaller visible number -> 1
Left eye open/right closed -> bottom half screen smaller visible number -> 1
Right eye open/left closed -> top half screen smaller visible number -> 1
Right eye open/left closed -> bottom half screen smaller visible number -> 1

So what I would advise people to do is to try and keep their sets out of standard, bright modes, torch modes or whatever for at least the first 100-150 hours of use and hopefully after that you can switch back and forth without this kind of burn in issue from occuring. It might also be advisable to simply turn your TV off entirely (for how long I am not sure) between changing Picture modes, so if you are on standard and switch to movie mode then turn off your tv, wait for whatever determined amount of time that works well and then turn your tv back on. I know this sucks, but I doubt a firmware will come out that can fix this issue.

Thanks to the OP for posting this. Standard test patterns with quantitative data is what's needed to properly evaluate these 3D sets. Sure beats talking about the bridge scene in monsters v aliens. ALso, this pattern exists with a white background out there in the interwebs. We should also be able to take these patterns and re-encode them to different fps (for tvs that play back 3D in variable refresh rates) and to the other 3D formats like over/under and frame packed. Should be easy to do in avisynth.

Here's what I got for the Sony HX909
Left eye open/right closed -> top half screen smaller visible number -> 6
Left eye open/right closed -> bottom half screen smaller visible number -> 18
Right eye open/left closed -> top half screen smaller visible number -> 20
Right eye open/left closed -> bottom half screen smaller visible number -> 2

I think it has something to do with the software the tv uses to play the video clips from the usb drive. These always show a lot of xtalk. I know the performance on 3d blu-ray is a lot better. I can watch a whole movie and see very little xtalk even looking for it.

I might do the same.

I take that back. I just got on the mail, IMAX under the sea 3D. I'm disappointed. The movie is gorgeous but I see a lot of xtalk, many of the coral twigs show as three instead of one. I still got time to take this TV back. What other options are out there. I have the pn58c7000, or you think this could be fix with a new firmware update.

If I were you I'd watch Ice Age 3 on there first.. it is amazing but I see absolutely no crosstalk at all and the effect is flawless. It is the only movie I have watched so far where everything seemed 100% perfect on my set. It gives me hope that these movies can be made right. Granted though I only watched the first 10-15 minutes of it and if there are darker scenes that do not work so great I would not know yet..

I had identical results using both the Samsung original battery powered glasses as well as the Xpand 103 glasses.

I assume I should count the number as visible even if it is barely visible.

It seems this would suggest poor cross talk performance. I've only had the set a few days but so far I rate the 3D performance as fantastic. Just watched Cloudy With a Chance of Meatballs and there was no a single instance of cross talk that grabbed my attention. I did see a fair amount of it those in the Comcast On Demand movie called 3D Sun. That was set against a very dark background (outer space).

I almost wonder if to get rid of the "crosstalk" in movies with high contrast scenes if the blacks ought to toggle between two distinct levels of black that is either unnoticeable or barely noticeable by the human eye in an attempt to get rid of any after glow effect that may occur.

I know in the setup menu there is an option called scrolling on the samsung TVs and I would like it if some of us Samsung owners here were to do this test and then repeat it immediately after running the scroll test for about a minute or 2 and see if the results change any. I get the feeling our issue is not actually crosstalk from out of sync issues but rather cross talk like effect from a momentary burn in effect.

VT20 is better in 96hz mode (24hz source with 24p film enable)

How would one go about proving that assertion?

i tested with personal pattern. the VT20 crosstalk is very better in 96hz page flipping than 120hz. phosphors seem still too persistent for 120hz

Is it a secret or are you going to explain how you did it?
A lot of us would like to know, I'm sure...

VT20 switch to 96hz mode when you use 24hz source (bluray 3D for exemple) and "24p film" enable
for my test i use .mpo 3D images (personal 3D crosstalk pattern) and my PS3 with the 3D viewer "Playmemories". i can switch "Playmemories" between 24hz mode (96hz page flipping on VT20) and 60hz mode (120hz page flipping) for compare and the difference is high