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Official OPPO BDP-93 Owner's Thread - Page 734

post #21991 of 25267
8/2/12 at 2:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philnick View Post

Why not put the Oppo in the 5.1 system in the family room and move the player that's in the family room to the "secondary" 2.0 setup?

I thought about that. The BD player in the family room is a PS3. I can see myself putting that downstairs at some point when my kids get old enough to want to play games. Unfortunately, my house was wired by the last owner and has component video through the walls between where the A/V cabinet is and the TV in the family room (2 different rooms), so even there I am not able to use HDMI. I don't have the energy to replace the component cables with an HDMI...it is a pretty long run, maybe 40-50 feet, and not easy to get to.

In my next house I plan to have a more ideal lossless setup and hopefully a dedicated HT room....but that is down the road a bit.
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post #21992 of 25267
8/2/12 at 2:46pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

. . .
Wifi can be interfered with by other things going on nearby. In some cases it's a neighbor's Wifi setup. But one of the MOST COMMON sources of interference is a poorly shielded microwave oven. Second only to that are certain cordless house phones (not cell phones, but regular house phones that have cordless handsets). Think about what's going on in your house when the Wifi on your computer or the OPPO barfs on you.
. . .
--Bob

WiFi b and g (and maybe even n) operate in the 2.4 GHz band, which is also common for cordless phones. Take a look at the phone's base station. Using the 2.4GHz band used to be a point that manufacturers of cordless phones bragged about because it gave them greater range (earlier units worked in a lower-frequency band) - but if it doesn't say what band it's running in on top, look at the labels on the bottom

Sometimes the problem can be reduced by just moving the cordless phone's base station so it isn't close to the WiFi router - the handset doesn't put out as strong a signal.
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post #21993 of 25267
8/2/12 at 2:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewHTbuyer View Post

I thought about that. The BD player in the family room is a PS3. I can see myself putting that downstairs at some point when my kids get old enough to want to play games. Unfortunately, my house was wired by the last owner and has component video through the walls between where the A/V cabinet is and the TV in the family room (2 different rooms), so even there I am not able to use HDMI. I don't have the energy to replace the component cables with an HDMI...it is a pretty long run, maybe 40-50 feet, and not easy to get to.
In my next house I plan to have a more ideal lossless setup and hopefully a dedicated HT room....but that is down the road a bit.

The Oppo has a set of component video output jacks, so that shouldn't be a problem.
Edited by Philnick - 8/2/12 at 2:56pm
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post #21994 of 25267
8/2/12 at 2:57pm
Pierred,
Hollywood is paying people all over the world good money to make that hard for you to do. As you get more into this, I think you'll be shocked at just how far Hollywood is willing to go to screw up the home customer experience in order to make that happen.

Of course their real goal is to get you to buy the movie, then discard it without even bothering to look at it (which means they can save a bunch of money on production costs). Then repeat. They've got a ways to go to get THERE though.... biggrin.gif

Curiously, the "then repeat" part is where they are farthest along as people seem quite willing to buy THE SAME movie multiple times to get different collections of Extras content -- or possibly a souvenir drinks coaster!
--Bob
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post #21995 of 25267
8/2/12 at 3:11pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewHTbuyer View Post

. . . .

It seems from the specs page on the Sony website that it can output 2 channel LPCM from the digital outs, so that should work fine for the HK 3490, since it cannot decode multichannel formats.

Thanks again for all your help, that is why I love AVS!

It would be VERY unusual for any AVR to offer Optical/Coax digital audio inputs and not also offer the ability to accept and decode traditional Dolby Digital (up to 5.1) and DTS (up to 5.1). These are not the fancy new formats found on Blu-ray discs but the old, traditional formats that are used for SD-DVD discs and, these days, also for cable and satellite TV programs. Typically, for a stereo speaker setup, the AVR would accept up to 5.1 Bitstream (DD or DTS) input this way, decode it, and then down mix that to stereo.

But yes it is quite common for players with Optical/Coax outputs to offer a stereo LPCM choice on those outputs. That's actually there in case you are cabling them direct to a TV which only accepts stereo input for use with its built-in stereo speakers. The OPPO offers such a setting as well for its Optical/Coax outputs.
--Bob
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post #21996 of 25267
8/2/12 at 3:35pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

It would be VERY unusual for any AVR to offer Optical/Coax digital audio inputs and not also offer the ability to accept and decode traditional Dolby Digital (up to 5.1) and DTS (up to 5.1). --Bob

I had at least 3 AV receivers with digital inputs and no Dolby Digital, let alone DTS. Those receivers were built before 1997 when DD became a standard. The HK he has does not have DD or DTS.
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post #21997 of 25267
8/2/12 at 3:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by slimoli View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

It would be VERY unusual for any AVR to offer Optical/Coax digital audio inputs and not also offer the ability to accept and decode traditional Dolby Digital (up to 5.1) and DTS (up to 5.1). --Bob

I had at least 3 AV receivers with digital inputs and no Dolby Digital, let alone DTS. Those receivers were built before 1997 when DD became a standard. The HK he has does not have DD or DTS.

A true relic of the past! Amazing!

I'd be as shocked if you told me it was steam powered. biggrin.gif
--Bob
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post #21998 of 25267
8/2/12 at 4:03pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by pierred View Post

In fact, what I'm saying is just get the darn movie into a proper media server and then handle like any other media, streaming or local...
Sure. Hollywood has made that easy to do. eek.gif

You probably already understand this point, but I'm compelled to make it anyway. With the advent of BD, the companies that manufacture shinny disk players are no longer in control of their user interface. The Internet services like Netflix, and the BD disks themselves are in control, and that control is schizophrenic.

While all home entertainment devices seem to be computers now, none of them have the ability to do what you can do with your own personal computer. Maybe sometime in the future, when Hollywood's paranoia has abated, and Google has wired us all for fiber optic Internet bandwidth, you will get to enjoy all the wonders that seem possible. biggrin.gif

EDIT: ,,, and pay for each viewing.
Edited by htwaits - 8/2/12 at 4:11pm
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post #21999 of 25267
8/2/12 at 4:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by slimoli View Post

I had at least 3 AV receivers with digital inputs and no Dolby Digital, let alone DTS. Those receivers were built before 1997 when DD became a standard. The HK he has does not have DD or DTS.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

A true relic of the past! Amazing!
I'd be as shocked if you told me it was steam powered. biggrin.gif
--Bob

Yes, the HK, although a new product, does harken back to the old stereo era. Partly I think that is design, since they figure that why would you buy a stereo receiver and need to decode 5.1 sound. Also, I am sure it might have to do with cost. The HK seems to have a pretty good amp (120 wpc into 8 ohms and 150 wpc into 4 ohms) and phono preamp and it was only $300. If you only have 2 speakers, does it make a difference if the BD player does the 5.1 to 2.0 decoding and then outputs 2 channel LPCM to the receiver or if the BD player outputs 5.1 dolby to the receiver and then it changes it to 2 channel stereo? In the end, don't you end up with stereo sound only anyway?

If you want to see a relic (although a nice one) I can post a pic of my 1992 Infinity Reference 4 speaker with the EMIT-R tweeter. Still sounds pretty good though. smile.gif
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post #22000 of 25267
8/2/12 at 4:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philnick View Post

The Oppo has a set of component video output jacks, so that shouldn't be a problem.

I didn't mean that the Oppo could not be hooked up in my family room, just that I can't fully utilize its top notch audio and video capabilities.
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post #22001 of 25267
8/2/12 at 4:42pm
I no longer have the receivers , just posted to clarify HIS receiver indeed doesn't have DD or DTS . There is a lot of people with high-end gear that will be very reluctant to upgrade. I am missing my Carver separates I had 20 years ago. I know, I'm old fashioned.rolleyes.gif
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post #22002 of 25267
8/2/12 at 5:49pm
OPPO has given me permission to add some additional background info to the FAQ entry Is DVD 24hz conversion supported?:

How is it done?

The OPPO developer who implemented this feature provided these comments:

As noted, there is no on-the-fly switching from 1080p60 output to the 1080p24 output when 3:2 cadence is detected. Once DVD 24P Conversion is set to ON, the player will output 1080p24 for any 480i content source. If the source does not have the proper 3:2 cadence, the output will have apparent motion judder caused by incorrect frame dropping.

The BDP-83's DVD 24p implementation was to monitor the de-interlacer to detect reliable 3:2 cadence. Once it is detected, the video processor is then switched to 1080p24 output. This causes a new HDMI handshake in the middle of playback. If later on the de-interlacer loses lock to the 3:2 cadence, frame tearing can happen.

For the BDP-93's Marvell Qdeo KG2 processor, we can program it to any output frame rate. During the initial development we tried 1080p24 output for DVD, and the result was not good. The video processor drops frames based on the required output frame rate. We randomly got smooth video at one time, and very jerky motion at another try. Any trick play operation such as pausing or fast forwarding could turn a good case into bad. Marvell told us that the KG2's frame rate converter could not be controlled by the de-interlacer to drop only the duplicated frames. This is why DVD 24P Conversion was not offered for the BDP-93/95.

Fast forward two years and I learned a way to isolate the input and output video clock. The de-interlacer can then be configured to do 3:2 -> 1:1 cadence conversion, and write the results to a frame buffer chain. The output side, no longer constrained by the input video clock, can read from the frame buffer chain and output at 23.976 frames/second. Although the KG2's documentation and reference code do not show such a use case, we were able to apply it successfully to the KG2 processor used in the BDP-93/95.

The 3:2 -> 1:1 cadence conversion works well in our test if the input is really 3:2. It can recover from a bad cadence nicely, unlike the BDP-83. If the input is not 3:2, but 2:2 or video, the result will be incorrect but there will no tearing. Users can expect to see motion judder if the input cadence is not suitable for 24p conversion. We make the conversion option available during playback so users can switch it off if it does not work well for the content being played.

The developer said this work was nothing to brag about, but I say: I'm not worthy.

-Bill
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post #22003 of 25267
8/2/12 at 6:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by pierred View Post

5. FBI warning... if you press anything (menu, stop, fast forward) nothing works. Eject and close again to see if we can speed up things fails miserably, as it first indicates "Resume from last position. Press STOP to cancel".
6. After a number of warnings, starts playing some commercial about whatever. Again, any attempt to do something to get to the DVD content is greeted with a "forbidden" icon on the upper left.

Press Next on the remote to skip the FBI threat message and other messages too (disclaimer: prob'ly some disks won't let you).

Also note the hidden feature for SD-DVDs only: with drawer open or closed with an SD-DVD in the tray, press the yellow button to go directly to play.
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post #22004 of 25267
8/2/12 at 6:35pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by pierred View Post

So, forgive me but I fail to see what, besides bad software design, would prevent the tray to be operated (opened or closed), immediately, while the player is booting?
Tray operation is just an example, but it feels as though the entire user interface is plagued with delays, disallowed shortcuts and generally on the same single sequential path as all the rest of what the player might possibly be doing.
With most of today's consumer electronics devices (think Apple products, cellphones, computers, cameras) there are a some widely accepted paradigms; most people don't have (thankfully) to think about them, but they provide what has become the expected user experience:
1. have a separate (or several) UI processes or threads, distinct from other control and low-level device operations.
2. provide immediate acknowledgement to user input. Even a simple and discreet beep or icon is preferable to looking busy and not having even registered input. This is especially important in my view in this case where the remote is so finicky (i.e. often the input is indeed not registered).
3. queue user commands, process and execute all of the ones that can be done as soon as possible, i.e. as long as they don't depend on a state of the machine that has not been reached yet or that depends on previous user input that hasn't been effected (unless the new input cancels the previously queued request).
4. in summary, try to be as responsive as possible.


My take on this.....quick and down and dirty, almost all modern electronics are a type of computer. They take time to boot.

VCR's and almost all early DVD's were not made this way, they simply came on, and did what they were supposed to. Even TV's take forever to start up now.....add AVR's and game systems.

Nature of the beast IMHO.
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post #22005 of 25267
8/2/12 at 7:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by pierred View Post

am I the only one to find the general usability of the Oppo to be horrendous and slow? It seems the control logic is single-threaded.

It's the first time I've read "horrendous". I don't agree. It isn't perfect, but I like it better than any other VHS, DVD, or BR player I've used ... except the Panasonic A-110 DVD player had a smooth fast-forward I've never seen duplicated.

The BDP-93 is obviously dead to the world while it starts. From the symptoms, it's performing a cold boot and not simply resuming from sleep. It's slower, but IMO it's more reliable. I'd probably make the same choice myself (but: I haven't done embedded programming in over 20 years and never did any for consumer electronics.)

I do find the UI to be slower than I'd like. Watching it run leads me to believe that the (main?) processor running Linux doesn't have enough power to drive the UI any faster. Even so, the UI is laid out well, its performance is predictable, and it's faster than any other BR player I've used. Compared to the non-disc WDTV+ (or whatever it's called), it's vastly superior.

If we want a "better", "more-responsive" boot, UI, etc., we'll be paying more for our players because, as you know, it increases development cost (a fast, predictable, and pretty, iOS-like UI is a massive sunk cost) and each player would need a faster, more-expensive CPU.

Do I really need a $500 BR+DVD+USB+eSATA player? No.
Do I wish I had bought something else? No.
Would I pay more? It depends on how much more and what I get for my money.
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post #22006 of 25267
8/2/12 at 7:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by slimoli View Post

I had at least 3 AV receivers with digital inputs and no Dolby Digital, let alone DTS. Those receivers were built before 1997 when DD became a standard.

I was going to say my AVR supports DD and not DTS, but I see I'm already beaten.
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post #22007 of 25267
8/3/12 at 3:31am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Yes it really does sound like you have a problem with your home Wifi setup. The fact that the VUDU speed test pegged at the top of the speed range is a good sign. Also check in Setup > Network Setup > Connection Information to see if you have a high percentage number for Wifi signal strength.
Wifi can be interfered with by other things going on nearby. In some cases it's a neighbor's Wifi setup. But one of the MOST COMMON sources of interference is a poorly shielded microwave oven. Second only to that are certain cordless house phones (not cell phones, but regular house phones that have cordless handsets). Think about what's going on in your house when the Wifi on your computer or the OPPO barfs on you.
One easy thing to try is to change the Wifi radio channel used by your Wifi base station. The devices that use your Wifi will still find the Wifi by name so they'll reconnect to the new channel automatically. If you don't know how to get into the Setup on your Wifi base station, check its manual or call tech support at your ISP if you got it from your ISP. In many case, you can access the Setup in a Wifi router by using the internet browser on your computer and entering a numeric address like 192.168.1.1 instead of a normal web page text address.
If you use Apple's Airport Wifi products then you do this stuff using the Airport Utility app found in the Applications > Utilities folder on your Mac.
The fact that you are also having problems with Wifi on your computer (along with the good VUDU test result you reported) pretty much eliminates the chance that the Wifi stick on your OPPO is faulty.
--Bob

Quote:
Originally Posted by hernanu View Post

Sounds like you're getting interference of some sort on your wireless network. Try logging into your router and changing the channels being used to another set. That may get you out of the area where you're getting interference. I have a WiFi analyzer on my Android phone that scans the area and lets me know which channels are clogged from other Wifi setups, so I change my channels to where they ain't.

It definitely seems that way. I'm gonna try to change the radio channel. I'm not computer savvy, but hopefully I can figure it out
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post #22008 of 25267
8/3/12 at 4:29am
Anybdy with the bluraychip.dk pro mod tried the new Beta FW?

Some users over on DTV forums in Australia are reporting that the mod no longer works. This has happened with a prior FW and blraychip issued a mod FW that resolved the issue.

cheers
blairy
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post #22009 of 25267
8/3/12 at 5:38am
Last night, while waiting for the CDs that Oppo is mailing me, I decided to try the USB route.

Downloaded the USB versions of both the beta and official firmware installers, went across the street to the Microcenter, and bought a Lexar 4GB USB drive that I was assured was FAT32 formatted. (They don't even sell 2GB versions any more!)

Extracted the beta firmware onto the USB drive. (My computer is running Win XP Pro Service Pack 3.)

Confirmed that the USB drive's root folder contained the UPG folder and that contained the two files it was supposed to.

Used "Safely remove hardware" to eject the USB drive.

Went down to my theater, made sure there was no disk in the Oppo, and plugged the USB drive into the front-panel jack.

The USB drive lit up for a moment to signal activity.

The Oppo home screen still read No Disk, and nothing else happened, so I went into Setup with the remote, and selected Device Setup, Firmware Upgrade, and then Via USB.

The moment I pressed OK on Via USB, the Oppo said that this was invalid firmware and that it hadn't changed the firmware it was using. (At least I didn't have to wait several minutes for the failure message.)

Went upstairs, manually formatted the USB drive - explicitly choosing FAT32 - extracted the zip file onto it, and repeated the rest of the process.

Same result.

Just re-downloaded BDP9x-71-0723B.zip after first renaming the first download, and then did a DOS filecompare: "no differences encountered."

My BDP-93 says it's on firmware version BDP9x-66-0413, as it's been since the day I got it last week.

Any ideas what's going on?
Edited by Philnick - 8/3/12 at 5:51am
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post #22010 of 25267
8/3/12 at 6:27am
^ This would happen if you were trying to load the firmware into a European model player (93EU), but other than that, I don't have an answer. Give OPPO another call and see if they have any ideas for you. The USB install is usually very straightforward.
--Bob
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post #22011 of 25267
8/3/12 at 7:02am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

^ This would happen if you were trying to load the firmware into a European model player (93EU), but other than that, I don't have an answer. Give OPPO another call and see if they have any ideas for you. The USB install is usually very straightforward.
--Bob

Got my BDP-93 from Amazon.com (USA), but - just in case this is what's going on, is there some screen I can go to in setup to find out if I was sent the 93EU - or is that a dumb question, since it came with a standard US power cord and is running on standard US power?

Oh, and all my disks are USA region coded.
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post #22012 of 25267
8/3/12 at 7:32am
^ The model number is on the box and on the serial number label on the unit. There's also an "EU" in the Main firmware version number shown in Setup. But this is not likely the problem. I was just trying to give you an example. Call OPPO and they'll sort out what's going on for you.
--Bob
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post #22013 of 25267
8/3/12 at 7:44am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

^ The model number is on the box and on the serial number label on the unit. There's also an "EU" in the Main firmware version number shown in Setup. But this is not likely the problem. I was just trying to give you an example. Call OPPO and they'll sort out what's going on for you.
--Bob

I sent an email to OPPO - they'll open in an hour and a quarter and I'll call them then.
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post #22014 of 25267
8/3/12 at 7:50am
While waiting, check that the Partition Map type on your USB stick is Master Boot Record (MBR) and not GUID Partition Table (GPT). This is set when the stick is partitioned into one or more logical volumes which can then each be formatted as, e.g., FAT32.
--Bob
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post #22015 of 25267
8/3/12 at 9:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

That sounds like a useful app! What's it called and is there an iOS version of it?
I'm not kidding about the microwave ovens by the way. I've seen it more than once that a Wifi setup has a seizure just because someone decided to make microwave popcorn. Changing the channel used by the base station (which is probably set to Auto by default -- so you'd be changing that to an explicit channel number) is the cure.
I wonder if your Wifi activity sniffer is smart enough to spot pure noise on the channel -- as from a poorly shielded microwave -- or whether it only looks for "real" Wifi traffic?
--Bob

Looks for real Wifi traffic, it identifies networks and sees where they live on the 0-14 channel range. It shows a real time graph of channel vs. signal strength, so you can see on a bell curve where you're getting impeded and who's doing it.

The app's name is WiFi Analyzer and it's been great. I live in an apartment, and have lots of networks around me that can drag things down - I could (and probably will if I need to) try to overpower them by buying a stronger router with custom antennas, but it's not nice to sit on a channel with other routers and just jam them; so I hunt for the less populated areas and move there. I notice every now and then someone else moves, so either blindly or if they have an analyzer, they are also looking for less interference.
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post #22016 of 25267
8/3/12 at 9:45am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

While waiting, check that the Partition Map type on your USB stick is Master Boot Record (MBR) and not GUID Partition Table (GPT). This is set when the stick is partitioned into one or more logical volumes which can then each be formatted as, e.g., FAT32.
--Bob

Not sure how to find that info. I've gone into Administrative Tools | Computer Managment | Disk Management, which shows the active flash drive's type as Partition | FAT32, but there's nothing about whether it is using a Master Boot Record or a GUID Partition Table.

I looked at the drive's "properties" - which gets me the same tabbed panel either directly from Windows Explorer or from this screen - and there's nothing about it there either.

What utility can I use to see and/or change which type it is?

UPDATE: Found the answer while still in Disk Management: It is Master Boot Record based, so that's not the problem.
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post #22017 of 25267
8/3/12 at 9:51am
Quote:
Originally Posted by hernanu View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

That sounds like a useful app! What's it called and is there an iOS version of it?
I'm not kidding about the microwave ovens by the way. I've seen it more than once that a Wifi setup has a seizure just because someone decided to make microwave popcorn. Changing the channel used by the base station (which is probably set to Auto by default -- so you'd be changing that to an explicit channel number) is the cure.
I wonder if your Wifi activity sniffer is smart enough to spot pure noise on the channel -- as from a poorly shielded microwave -- or whether it only looks for "real" Wifi traffic?
--Bob

Looks for real Wifi traffic, it identifies networks and sees where they live on the 0-14 channel range. It shows a real time graph of channel vs. signal strength, so you can see on a bell curve where you're getting impeded and who's doing it.

The app's name is WiFi Analyzer and it's been great. I live in an apartment, and have lots of networks around me that can drag things down - I could (and probably will if I need to) try to overpower them by buying a stronger router with custom antennas, but it's not nice to sit on a channel with other routers and just jam them; so I hunt for the less populated areas and move there. I notice every now and then someone else moves, so either blindly or if they have an analyzer, they are also looking for less interference.

Thanks for that. Evidently Apple banned such apps starting with iOS 5 because they all used Apple-private APIs to manipulate the Wifi hardware in the device. Wifi Analyzer for iOS still exists, but only for jailbroken devices.
--Bob
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post #22018 of 25267
8/3/12 at 9:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philnick View Post

. . . .

UPDATE: Found the answer while still in Disk Management: It is Master Boot Record based, so that's not the problem.

Oh well.

* staticy hologram illuminates * "Help me, OPPO-wan. You are my only hope!"
--Bob
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post #22019 of 25267
8/3/12 at 9:57am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philnick View Post

I've gone into Administrative Tools | Computer Managment | Disk Management, which shows the active flash drive's type as Partition | FAT32, but there's nothing about whether it is using a Master Boot Record or a GUID Partition Table.

That's correct if you have Win7. Now,

  1. Right-click on the drive in the upper or lower panel.
  2. Select Properties.
  3. Select the Hardware tab in the Properties dialog.
  4. Select your drive from the list of drives on the Hardware tab.
  5. Click the Properties button.
  6. Click the Volumes tab of the new Properties dialog.
  7. Click the Populate button.
  8. Select your questionable volume
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philnick View Post

What utility can I use to see and/or change which type it is?

Changing the type may require destroying and recreating the partition.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philnick View Post

UPDATE: Found the answer while still in Disk Management: It is Master Boot Record based, so that's not the problem.

Oops. I'm too late.
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post #22020 of 25267
8/3/12 at 10:02am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philnick View Post

Not sure how to find that info. I've gone into Administrative Tools | Computer Managment | Disk Management, which shows the active flash drive's type as Partition | FAT32, but there's nothing about whether it is using a Master Boot Record or a GUID Partition Table.
I looked at the drive's "properties" - which gets me the same tabbed panel either directly from Windows Explorer or from this screen - and there's nothing about it there either.
What utility can I use to see and/or change which type it is?
UPDATE: Found the answer while still in Disk Management: It is Master Boot Record based, so that's not the problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

Oh well.
* staticy hologram illuminates * "Help me, OPPO-wan. You are my only hope!"
--Bob

FWIW, the player wouldn't even see the UPG folder if the drive was formatted wrong. In this case the player is throwing the generic "wrong firmware" error message. You'd expect this message if for example the firmware was for a different model or was an old revision.

Philnick: if you're using ANY type of download management tool, turn it off. Use THIS link to download the file. Then be sure you are properly unzipping the contents of that file to the root of an empty USB drive.
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