Ysp 2200 - Page 18

how much was it?

Harmony Remotes: has anyone figured out how to set discreet codes for the inputs on the 2200. With the cycling inputs, the problem in using hdmi control is as you cycle through the inputs, each device powers on. Discrete inputs would prevent this from happening.

I've added a Polk PSW111 sub to replace the oem sub that came with the 2200 with great results. I used to have a Velodyne Optimum 8 which I unfortunately sold before getting the soundbar, but the Polk does a very respectable job for less than 200 bucks. Highly recommended for anyone looking to upgrade from the yamaha sub.

My Harmony 1 has discreet settings. I have never had to cycle through the inputs.

Are they the hdmi inputs or the audio inputs because I do have discrete audio inputs. I just don't have anything but the hdmi toggle for my hdmi inputs.

I tried deleting the ysp-2200 and then reloaded into my harmony software and that solved the problem. The discrete codes as well as other information that wasn't there previously is now there.

That sounds good, do you have three components hooked up? So it would go HDMI from a STB, Bluray player, XBOX and then connect to the TV via the ARC connection, is that correct. Also, you can now set up the Harmony so that you can choose hdmi input one (bluray as an example) and it switches everything for you without having to toggle?? Hope my question makes sense.

First night with the 2200. Very happy with the ability to aim the beams. I've reproduced decent 5.1 with a 5 beam set up where the TV is in one corner with a sectional in the opposite corner. I'm frankly shocked with how well I've been able to dial it in. The key is definitely manual setup. I recommend adjusting angle of each beam and focal length adjustments had a profound impact.

If you like to tinker with technology and aren't afraid of exploring setting options this is a very solid sound bar. If you don't like to tinker avoid it as the auto setup was worthless in my opinion.

I'm having some trouble using my TV to switch between all components so looks like I'll be using the bar as my switching device.

Yes, I have a set top box, PS3 and blu-ray player connected to each of the hdmi's. I also have a single in wall hdmi going from the arc hdmi to my tv for audio return from the TV. Now that the harmony has the discrete codes, I am able to switch between sources effortlessly without now toggling between each of the inputs.

Thank you for the response and that sounds like what I would have to do as well. I want to buy a new Harmony touch to control it all and wanted to make sure I could hit one button (watch blurry for example) and the sound bar and TV would get the code from the remote that it was connected via HDMI one on the bar and going into the ARC HMDI connection on the TV without any toggling of inputs having to be done. Just to confirm, that is how your system is working.

I am quite impressed with the 2200 as well. We purchased the 2200 and a panasonic TV for a secondary small room system as we have a full blown 7.1 system cantered around an Anthem D2v, Moon amps and Pioneer kuro tv and we find ourselves in the room with the 2200 more. I'm not saying it is in any way a replacement or even remotely close to the abilities of the D2v, but it certainly is an impressive and capable system for what it is.

I am trying to understand the focal length parameters. Is that basically the length of the beam to the reflective surface?

I have both using the choice of product from their database.

I downloaded the full menu and yes the focal length should be the distance to the reflective surface.

One example of the sonic hole is I'm watching basketball and the normal sound of the ball being dribbled is inaudible with only low base. I can't afford the 3300 but if it were 700-900 I would consider it as its strange seeing the ball hit the court and hear almost nothing. You'd think a higher crossover for the small woofers on the sub could fill much of the hole, but I can't find an adjustment for crossover.

I'm still very impressed with the beamed audio outside of the sonic hole so I won't be returning it .

Actually after turning on my Tv speakers I realized I still couldn't hear the basketball dribbling sound so the issue may be with the source. And wow, my tv speakers are terrible.

I did notice some absence of sound using the original sub which I originally thought was just in the lower octaves. However, I find with the new sub, where I can adjust the crossover makes a big difference in filling in the void between the soundboard and sub.

Most receivers have a crossover setting. I wonder if the 2200 has a crossover set in the soundbar or if a sub like your Polk can buy additional range.

FOCAL LENGTH - Get the manual off your CD or download it. I was incorrect on focal length. Sounds like for L, C, R you want a much smaller and potentially negative number for focal length to widen the sweet spot. And for beams bounced off the walls you want the focal length shorter than the distance to the wall to widen the sweet spot. Page 39 of the manual.

Thanks. The electronic manual is more complete.

:confused:I'm having a bit of a problem with losing some video resolution when running my Cable box into one or any of the hdmi inputs on the ysp-2200 sound bar. So my basic setup is, PS3 and cable box going into hdmi 1 and 2 input on the sound bar. Hdmi out going to Hdmi 1 on my TV. Strangely enough, my PS3 gets 1920x1080p (running through the sound bar) however my cable box gets dwarfed down to 1280 x 720p. If I take it out of the sound bar and plug it directly into the TV i get 1920x1080i (which i believe is the best it can do)
So first off I immediately thought I had a bad or poor quality hdmi cable somewhere in the mix. I have about 8 cables throughout the house, all of them good quality. I tried and tried different combinations of cables and nothing fixed this problem.
It's not a deal breaker. I'm just currently running my cable hdmi straight into the TV, and TV optical out into the sound bar. Looks and sounds great. However, I'm still puzzled why the soundbar downgrades my resolution.
My Cable box is a Motorola 6412 and my TV is a Samsung 60ES7100 if that helps.
Thanks.

I will be picking up this soundbar this weekend. However, I do have a question for everyone.....

I currently receive my tv signal the old fashion way via a coaxial cable input (no digital box).

I don't think my tv has ARC built into the HDMI (not that I have found in the manual)......Sharp LC-42D69U
It does have a headphone jack......if I were to get a 3.5mm to RCA cable, would this take care of my ability to watch tv using the soundbar?

I will have a PS3 and an Apple TV hooked up.

Thanks in advance. I have enjoyed reading all about this soundbar.

HI - i'm looking at this sound bar for my samsung 60" but have a question on the setup.
Everyone seems to be saying run hdmi out from stb/xbox/dvd player into soundbar and the sound bar OUT to tv.

Does the sound bar pass the video signal through on this HDMI ARC output? (it must but i see the previous post on the sensing of the display not working back to the cable box).
Does it do that when the soundbar is off?
I'd really rather not require the sound bar to be on all the time - i plan to use it for movies and sports,etc but for causal tv watching wasn't planning to use it.

Understand the optical out on the tvs don't pass through the encoding but do any TVs have the ARC output (that would seem more logical to me of how to run this?).

Thanks for the help!

PS -To the post above about the wrong resolution when running through the cable box i believe you can setup the cablebox to manually set the resolution output you want (i had a tv that my cable box would squish for non-high def channels - there was a setting in the cable box guide i found to override it (http://www.wavebroadband.com/support/cable/docs/DCX3501M-User-Guide.pdf)...I think i had to disconnect the hdmi cable to get to the menu setting.

I am also looking into getting this soundbar and I had a few questions. I have a LG 60PZ550, a DirecTV HR24, XBOX 360, and a Sony Blu Ray player. Would I be able to hook up the HDMI cables to back of the soundbar and then run one HDMI cable to the back of the TV or would it be better to hook up the HDMI cables to the back of the tv and then run an optical cable to the back of the soundbar? I am new to soundbars and don't know too much about hooking them up. I don't think my tv is arc compliant and I don't know if that makes a difference. Thanks in advance.

That is the preferred method of connection.

Would this method work if your TV is not arc compliant ?

Sure. ARC is for sending audio FROM a TV to an external audio system. As long as you have everything connected to the soundbar, you're not sending audio out from the TV.

Thanks for your quick answers.

I have this setup:

CABLE Box --HDMI--> YSP 2200 --HDMI--> Samsung TV (LN32A450)

I have Anynet+ and "auto turn off" turned on on the TV. On the YSP I have HDMI Control turned on. I want the YSP to turn on and off automatically with the TV, which it does. The problem is when it auto powers on with the TV it switches to the TV input instead of staying on HDMI1. Any ideas?

It's in my bedroom and I usually use the sleep function on the TV so I would like the bar to power off with the TV automatically, which it does. When I go into my room at night I usually hit the power button on the side of the TV instead of going and getting the remote. Without the bar staying on the correct input that's not really possible.

I have a harmony one that works everything just fine but it's the use of the power button on the TV and the sleep function that I can't figure out.

Oh, bar sounds fantastic. I'm blown away. Got, what I consider, a good deal on it from JR.

I have the exact same issue and could not figure out how to stop the soundbar from switching to the TV input randomly. The only workaround was to turn off Anynet+, and program the Harmony One to power off everything individually. I left the HDMI Control on within the YSP.

It's annoying because anytime I want to watch HBO Go on my Samsung, I have to go through the settings and enable Anynet+. And sometimes, when I try to power off the TV/YSP, one will miss the command and I have to manually turn off the unit thats still on.

Now that I think about it, maybe I can try rearranging the order that things are turned on. I'll see if that eliminates the issue of the YSP switching to the "TV" input.

I ended up turning HDMI Control and Anynet+ completely off. The harmony seems to have no trouble powering on and off everything as it should. In order to use the sleep function I just set both the tv and ysp sleep timers.

In addition to rearranging order that things turn on, maybe you could increase the delay between input changes on the Harmony.

I recently got this sound bar and it has great audio. I had an old 7 series Panny plasma with no built in speakers or HDMI that I recently moved to the bedroom. My thoughts were to hook up everything via HDMI and just send the video over a HDMI>DVI cable to the tv. I quickly found out that this broke a specification when I got no sound. I ran digital in from the cable box and that resolved the sound from the satellite. I have a USB device coming that will provide an optical for the laptop.

My only problem now is that I took advantage of Newegg's recent sub sale and purchased a 12 inch PSW505. I understand this brand of sub is not in high regards here, however I couldn't pass it up at the $180 price point. I was looking to upgrade the usual crappy subwoofers that come with these type of systems. For those who have upgraded subs, how did you run the wire to it? I have the standard LFE which I can't use w/ this sound bar as it has Pos/Neg speaker wire connections. The sub itself has Left/Right Pos/Neg passthrough...is it as simple as hooking up the speaker wire to either the left or right in?

Soundbar itself is more than I bargained for in the bedroom. I haven't had time to manually tweak everything but I hear surround from the left and right, even behind me. I was quite supprised as in bed the headboard is right up against the wall and wasn't sure if sound could be bounced back there. This weekend I will dial it all in, just need to figure out how to wire up this sub!

EDIT: I forgot to give my room parameters...it's 20x13 rectangle, TV is on one of the long walls in the middle, bed is on the other. The auto calibration picked it up as 5+2.
Edited by mazalo99 - 3/8/13 at 5:32am