This is such an amazing site! Everyone pooling their expertise for the ultimate goal...the quintessential oasis, isolated from reality. And they can play movies too?
After reading this thread, this is my modification of a "standard" 6-panel laminated core door for use on my nameless Theater. I've been making these doors to restore my 1907 Edwardian/Arts and Crafts home using the same construction details as the originals. A hundred years ago, they used a laminated Douglas Fir core (for stability and to cut weight by about 1/3), edge capped with 3/4" White Oak and veneered with 1/8" White Oak.
I understand that mass is important, but I think that the stability offered by the laminated core "out weighs" the extra weight of solid Oak due to the tendency of warpage of solids. Hopefully the extra thickness (1 3/4" to 2 3/8") and a lead sheet will make up for this.
I'm thinking that the GG on both sides of the lead will allow the lead to absorb vibrations instead of trapping it between two hard surfaces. And that the "fluidity" of the GG will seal the inset flat panel while allowing the movement required by solid wood for expansion/contraction to prevent cracking.
For the Theater side the space created by the recessed flat panel could be filled with mass and then a veneer applied over the entire surface to suite the as-yet-undecided Theater decor. Because of the GG and lead, there would have to be some screws installed in the stiles and rails to hold the sandwich together before the surface veneer is applied.
130413121351-001.pdf 184k .pdf file
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I forgot to put dimensions on the door sketch. The stiles and rails will be about 2 3/8" thick. the panels will have two 1/2" layers of oak plus the GG and lead. In hindsight the panel will probably be a total of just under 1" since that is my largest mortising chisel. I think I read that the lead should be 2.5 mm. A standard door 1 3/4" x 80" x 36" weighs about 100 lbs, so this would add the GG and lead; about another 140 lbs(
!!!!). Maybe I'll replace the fir with balsa!
I think my jambs just went from 7/8" Oak to 1 3/4" and that will cut two inches off the door width and 8 lbs of lead!
The room is in an addition constructed from Insulated Concrete Forms (ICF's), so the main entrance is in a wall measuring over 12" thick and the door leading to the old basement and bathroom is over 20" thick. As suggested, I will use an inner and outer door on each opening with a space of more than 7" and 15" respectively, between the doors. The inner door will have a drop down sweep and gaskets on the jamb. I'm wondering about a stepped jamb and door profile.
My back is starting to have spasms just thinking about making and handling 232 lb doors! Fortunately the bathroom door is only 25" wide.