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Spare subwoofer... Kinda want to build a Sono

post #1 of 112
Thread Starter 
EDIT: I decided to build the sonosub with the Klipsch driver. Pictures are later in the thread.

I've got a spare woofer from a Klipsch RW-12d and was wanting to make something out of it. I can't really seem to find any specs on it, but I was considering trying to build a Sonosub out of it. Would I be better off just building a traditional box for it or could this be a decent woofer for a Sono?

TIA
post #2 of 112
If you are looking to not spend too much, I say sell the woofer on ebay and buy a Dayton 15" subwoofer.
post #3 of 112
Thread Starter 
I knew I'd get a response like that here... I'm not looking to buy a different subwoofer.
post #4 of 112
If you can't find specs then there is not much you can do... You can build a sono with the same volume as the stock enclosure and port.
post #5 of 112
Quote:
Originally Posted by yamahaSHO View Post
I've got a spare woofer from a Klipsch RW-12d and was wanting to make something out of it. I can't really seem to find any specs on it, but I was considering trying to build a Sonosub out of it. Would I be better off just building a traditional box for it or could this be a decent woofer for a Sono?

TIA
I tried to get specs for a woofer from klipsch a couple months ago, they would not give out the specs. Don't waste your time, sell the woofer like I did, then spend the money on a woofer you can match to the project you want to move forward with.
post #6 of 112
Thread Starter 
I don't really *need* to build this. I have my media room and theater situated... It's just a fun project.

I can't imagine the woofer itself is all that bad to build from. It makes some decent bass in a crappy Klipsch box. I figure I could build something that'll help it sound a little better. I may throw it in as a 3rd sub for my theater.
post #7 of 112
I took an unknown Sony driver and built a Sono out of it. All the driver details tell you is what max excursion happens at what wattage (sort of). So within reason, you can build an enclosure and tune it and make the driver work. Just don't go crazy. I built a small sono (80 liters) and tuned it to ~21hz. The driver came from a small ported enclosure most likely tuned to 35-40hz!! The amp it came with had a HP filter set to ~35hz....

Everyone told me it was a waste of time and that the driver was not capable of more than the enclosure it originally came with. Wrongo in the Congo. The new build sounds WICKED. Especially when its not crippled with a crappy amp.

You might just surprise yourself:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...ny-driver.html













post #8 of 112
You can make any subwoofer sound okay in the wrong box at "certain frequencies".

Up until the point where you reach its max-excursion below the tuning point.
post #9 of 112
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Favelle View Post

I took an unknown Sony driver and built a Sono out of it. All the driver details tell you is what max excursion happens at what wattage (sort of). So within reason, you can build an enclosure and tune it and make the driver work. Just don't go crazy. I built a small sono (80 liters) and tuned it to ~21hz. The driver came from a small ported enclosure most likely tuned to 35-40hz!! The amp it came with had a HP filter set to ~35hz....

Everyone told me it was a waste of time and that the driver was not capable of more than the enclosure it originally came with. Wrongo in the Congo. The new build sounds WICKED. Especially when its not crippled with a crappy amp.

You might just surprise yourself:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...ny-driver.html














You can understand what I mean, it's just for fun. Here is the woofer I am working with:



Quote:
Originally Posted by CZ Eddie View Post

You can make any subwoofer sound okay in the wrong box at "certain frequencies".

Up until the point where you reach its max-excursion below the tuning point.

I've built a few subs over the years. Some VERY large to small ones that always surprise people. I'm not looking for monster sub out of this, but I'm willing to bet it won't be a slouch when I'm done.
post #10 of 112
Thread Starter 
I've decided that I'm definitely going to build a sono out of it. I've been wanting to do one for fun. I'll see how it sounds in the rear of my theater, but if it doesn't match well since the other two subs will be SVS, I'll give it to my dad to use in his room

It won't be a skull crusher, but I'm sure it will be impressive.
post #11 of 112
I look forward to seeing your build.

I am not saying they do, but I am surprised the giys on PE dont have the specs of the Klipsch subwoofer drivers. I figured someone would have thought of doing something similar in the past and posted specs after their testings. Just wishful thinking is all.
post #12 of 112
Thread Starter 
Favelle-
I was looking at your build thread and you mentioned changing the port to a 24hz tune. Did you end up changing it? If so, how did it react? I am looking at a 24hz tune as the RW-12d was rated down to 24hz. Does this seem logical, or should I be shooting for something else?

Now that my SVS subs came in, I'm getting really antsy to build this. It might take some 'tuning', but I think I can get it to play nice with the two SVS subs well and really shake things up in my room.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post

I look forward to seeing your build.

I am not saying they do, but I am surprised the giys on PE dont have the specs of the Klipsch subwoofer drivers. I figured someone would have thought of doing something similar in the past and posted specs after their testings. Just wishful thinking is all.

Yeah, it would be nice to have some specs. I suppose I'll follow similar to the original box specs, but not exactly. I'd like to see the woofer do more, especially if Favelle can pull some really good numbers off of a cheap old Sony woofer.
post #13 of 112
Thread Starter 
Well, I've started working this project. Circle jigs are awesome!

Final design.






The end caps will be a total of 2". 2 layers of 3/4" MDF and 1 layer of 1/2 Birch plywood. I will install everything using Hurricane Nuts for easy removal of parts if I ever need to modify.








The flush mounted port is a little low, but I expect the gasket will raise it up to look more flush.


post #14 of 112
Gotta love the circle jigs. I am not so good at using any circular saws but I have gotten pretty good at the router. And now I have my circle jig also and it makes my cutting look like what I wanted.

Your cuts also make everything look very professional. Nice job so far.
post #15 of 112
That's a pretty driver. It almost seems a shame to hide it . Btw, did you mention what you're powering it with? Unless I've missed it, twice...
post #16 of 112
Awesome man! Don't see many endcaps without the over-sized end pieces. Looks great!
post #17 of 112
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SilentJ20 View Post

That's a pretty driver. It almost seems a shame to hide it . Btw, did you mention what you're powering it with? Unless I've missed it, twice...

I think I am going with the Oaudio 500w plate amp. It has a selectable filter and PEQ that I think will be useful.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Favelle View Post

Awesome man! Don't see many endcaps without the over-sized end pieces. Looks great!

Thanks! I actually don't like them with the [really] large encaps. Hopefully it turns out.




Got a chance to do a little more work on my sub today. I'm going to get the other baffle glued tomorrow and then go use a drill press to drill my holes and install Hurricane Nuts.





With the gasket on the port, it sits just a tad high. Screwing it down should make it flush.


Couldn't find the "egg crate" stuff, but this should work. It's a bit more dense than the old egg crate stuff I have for my blow up matress which I purchased about 8 years ago.



Couple of questions... I know a lot of people use about 6" of fiberglass on the port end, but I really hate that crap. Anyone know of an alternative that won't be so nasty and is nearly as good. I've been searching the web, but I haven't really found anything.

Also, I've seen some like to dampen the port as well. I have quite a bit of extra Dynamat from a computer build and was wondering if it would be beneficial to stick that on the OD of the port and then wrap with some more of the foam. Any thoughts?
post #18 of 112
Thread Starter 
After getting both end caps complete, I did a dry fit of everything and set the subwoofer in the baffle and fired the sub up with my PE BASH 300S and I can say that I am absolutely glad I did this. I am actually amazed at the results. Even with air leaks and a sub just sitting on the baffle, this thing already sounds CONSIDERABLY better than the RW-12d box. It is much smoother, louder, and hits lower... Without port noise or other box noises.

Now that I have done a dry fit, I will be taking the baffles to make use of a drill press and start drilling for the driver mounting and base plate.

This one is a keeper!



post #19 of 112
Glad it worked out. Love to hear about plans coming together and meeting atleast the expectations.

I just hate the fact yours is done and mine is just pieces. J/K
post #20 of 112
Nicely coming along,you seem to be good at it.
post #21 of 112
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post

Glad it worked out. Love to hear about plans coming together and meeting atleast the expectations.

I just hate the fact yours is done and mine is just pieces. J/K

I still have to make the base and insert threaded inserts in the legs, but it has exceeded my expectations to be honest.

It currently sits like this and I'm using it right now.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanaris View Post

Nicely coming along,you seem to be good at it.

Thanks! I'm happy with the way it's turning out so far. I'm still trying to figure out what I'm going to do to smooth out the spiral before a sock goes on it.
post #22 of 112
The spiral marks won't show once you put the sock on it...

So, how does it sound?
post #23 of 112
Thread Starter 
The spiral overlaps itself, so it will show with a sock of velvet.

Honestly, it sounds incredible. Even just being mocked up, port held in by tape, leaks and the sub just resting in place, I was amazed. I've got a friend on his way now to get a second opinion.
post #24 of 112
If you're good with Spackle you can apply that over it.. and even it out...
post #25 of 112
I will be doing what Doug did on my thread and use the cork role around once and then do some sanding. Thats what he did then added veneer and it looks great.
post #26 of 112
Thread Starter 
I was looking at cork applied with 3M spray adhesive as well. I'll likely do that.
post #27 of 112
This looks simple and great! Just how are people powering these? I've seen some builds but no one say what they are using to power these things. Good job. I have a neighbor that will help me make one, is there an amp that can attach to this? Maybe up top or bottom?

I'll spring on any sub, also what program was used to give you dimension?
Thanks.
post #28 of 112
Thread Starter 
Right now I just have a PE BASH 300S powering it, but with will likely pick up an Oaudio 500w for flexibility. I'm running it wireless and just put in the back of my theater and running three subs has totally transformed the bass in my room. This is keeping up with my PC12-NSD's and has moved the bass to my seating position!

I suppose I should take it apartmto finish it, but I'm having fun with it.

Google "sonosub.exe" for the program.
post #29 of 112
post #30 of 112
so how did it measure out?

the construction looks pretty, but if it performs like ass, it is ass.

;-)
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