"Reel Time" Build Log-14' Scope, 9.7 17,000W Transducer Audio, Dedicated Stadium Room - Page 8

So, you think this is a good way to go then?!? I think there's way too much trim to go the crackle route, but I understand your thought. I just think it will be too much with all that I have. I think your statements above are agreeing with what I have here, which is a glaze over a metallic paint. It is a metallic glaze however, so I might try to get some matte glaze and see what that looks like. Either way, I know I'm painting on the gold metallic base.


Rolling will have to do, but I'll be sure not to have any roller lines!

Good idea to put that sample up and see what it looks like with the PJ shining. The front corner walls do sit back about 2' from the screen and then angle away from it. The whole front wall will be black GOM around the screen with black GOM panels coming from the screen wall to the edges of these angled walls. So, hopefully since that was the design idea, it will help to minimize.

Outside of just trying to create some depth and interest in the trim with the glaze, we knew that plain gold was just too much on all counts (gaudy, reflective, etc.).

I've got the same concern, but think it will work with the wallpaper, especially if I go with the more toned down coffee glaze version. The paper is isolated to the "bumps" and front angled walls with 3' wide sections of the dark brown in between. I think that's enough to offset the grandness of paper, but we'll see. Unfortunately I couldn't get the photos of the paper to come out as it looks in person. It's not as bright as it appears here and is much darker.

I'm trying to strike a balance between having something that is very classic and appealing and that of a high-performance bat cave. Therefore I'm bringing in much darker colors where I wouldn't have otherwise.

Worse case scenario on the trim is that I'd have to go back and apply another coat of glaze to darken it further if it's too much.

Trim Paint - In Person vs Forum

First, thanks to all who have given their opinions and thoughtful comments.

So everyone that's opined here on the forum has selected the darker glaze on the right (coffee). Interestingly, we've had eight different people come through the house over the past few days, both male and female, and look at the same combination and have all picked the lighter glaze on the left! Figures!

While I think the photo here represents the actual well, perhaps my mind's eye is kicking in. I can see that the photo does not show as much depth and all the darker glaze that is in the lines of the trim. For the darker, it's very obvious.

Well, at least at this point I know I've got two coats of gold metallic paint ahead of me. Then I'll make a call. I can try out a few other glazes and applications in the meantime.

Thanks!

I can't believe it's been a month since I last posted! On top of this being an extremely busy time of year work-wise for me, I've been sick off-and-on for the past month and then away on business to boot. Just not much time to get in the HT to do work.

That being said, I was able to get the trim 90% completed. I actually got in the HT for a few hours yesterday and applied the glaze to about 50% of it.

I've changed up the paint color for the walls and gone from a dark brown to a chamois color. In the pictures below, you can see the darker brown I was going to go with on the doors. Once I put that up and saw it against the trim and paper samples, I just couldn't live with it. That on top of the dark wood that's coming for the bar area was just too dark for me. I know that dark is good, but I had to make the change. Hopefully it will all work out.

The trim took waaaaaay longer than I expected as it need three coats of paint to fully cover. If I had it to do over again, I would have put on a dark base first, then two coats of the metallic paint. So in the end with the glaze, I will have painted the trim four times and wiped off the glaze once. Five touches all together. The pictures don't do it justice at all, but it really looks great!

All these pics are the trim WITHOUT the glaze...







Here are the doors to the A/V closet. The dark brown isn't staying. I'm going to do the wall color (now chamois) where you see the dark brown now and then do the glazed metallic for the panels to match the trim.









Not a great pic, but the trim on the left is without glaze and the right is with glaze making it darker.



Back area glazed. Unfortunately the photo does pic up all the effect of the glaze.



I'm heading out of town again this weekend, so I will be the following before I get back in there. Stay tuned!

Well, my progress is slow (see post above), but I thought I'd share at least something I think is cool.

A year ago I picked up an antique theater 40's/50's exit light that I thought would look neat in my HT. It was pretty beat up, but unique since it was round, with the glass in a ball shape with the word "EXIT" actually in the mold of the glass.

I found a local shop that does restorations and metal plating and had them restore it and brass plate it. Here are the before and after shots. I have a place for it just above the HT door and will program it in the GE to come on when the lights go down.

BEFORE





AFTER

Thanks Mario! I've been checking on your progress here and there. Looking good. Wish I had your time and ENERGY!

Thanks. It just took forever to paint with so many profiles. And I hate to paint!

Put in two 12 hour days doing what I hate... painting! Finished up glazing all the trim. After that was finished, I decided that I would go ahead and paint the doors the same way as the trim - metallic brown/gold with the glazing. I thought it was going to be too much at first, but with the lighter color we are now going with on the walls and seeing how well the trim came out, I think it will look the best. I still have to put up another coat on the doors and then apply the glazing.

Today I spent painting two coats of the wall color (chamois) everywhere it goes. All the white areas you see in the pics below is where the wallpaper is to go. Except for the white area around the wall bar. I just painted what I had to there in that alcove.

So here's color at last!













I guess I'm going to have to touch the trim one more time! At least the baseboards, casing and doors. The metallic paint and glazing come off too easy when you wipe with just a little pressure. Paint store said the glazing really needs to be sealed, and they were correct of course. Here comes a layer of satin poly. Damn!

Hate it, but not too bad at it. Thanks!

Sorry for the late reply - I've been on the road.

For the star field, yes, mine is 10x 15 as well. I have a break in the back of it around the opening of the projector. I'm going to run two 20' lengths down each side (5' in the back from the projector opening and then 15' down the length of the star field. That way both controllers are in the same place for those two runs. So there, I'm cutting 4' off of a length and adding that to the 16' run. I'm then going to have a single 10' length at the far end of the star field. The controller will be down there with the strip, but I will just run my IR sensor from the PJ hush box down to that controller to run it.

The side walls of the room will have about 19' of run for each. So I'll need to take a 16' run plus 3' cut from another for those. So all in total I will have 5 controllers to manage.

Around the star field I found that placing the strip on the vertical part of the wall just below the top edge of the crown so that the LEDs are shining out horizontally towards the star field was the best. I played with various placements for some time before seeing this was the best. Therefore when I come to a corner, I just leave a slight curve to it and don't have issues with a 90 degree turn as I would if I had them shining upwards. See the sketch below to see what I mean - hard to explain.

Yeah, I thought the same thing when I posted it up here. Probably more like, praying she can stop hearing me talk about all this AV/HT crap and just get it done!

Thanks for the compliments!

Everything on the ceiling is flat, including the Mouse Ears black around the inside of the soffit/star field. No the Mouse Ears is only there. I used Starless Night (deep dark blue) (flat) for the bottom of the soffit/ceiling of the room. The paint on the walls (Chamois) is satin and the poly to go on the trim yet will also be satin.

I'm sorry, but I said extend the IR for the the 10' length at the end of the star field, when I meant extend the power just like you are doing with the 4-conducter wire. Than all my controllers for the star field are in the same place and I don't have to install a standard 120V outlet down there. I'm sure someone could say just use an extension cord, but I just don't trust them!


Thank you very much, but I have all my rolls.


Any time! I'm anxious to inspire with finished photos! Won't get much done this week as I have to please Uncle Sam as I have waited too long. Oh well.