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DIY Curved AT screen with Somfy based automated masking - Page 3

post #61 of 111
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy238 View Post

Thanks for that info, Moggie. It helps a lot!

So if I go with a one motor, IR controlled solution, do I still need the RS485 4ILT Interface? Or can I just connect the #9154205 IR receiver to the motor? Or do I just need the #1870127 ILT Tap? I can't seem to find a clear concise IR integration diagram. I did find the RS485 4ILT Interface at somfymotorstore.com but it was like over $450?! Is it really that expensive?

Andy

You don't need the 4ILT RS485 interface with one motor. If you want to control via RS485 (or RS232) you will need the Tap #1870127 and a RS485/usb converter for your laptop (I found one for about $35). I don't think you can directly connect the IR to the motor (although I'm guessing here) because it needs power that would normally come from the Tap or the 4ILT controller... worth talking to Somfy directly though.

Remember that if you can make do with two end limits and one intermediate stop, then you can build a much cheaper system with the non ILT motors. You will not get the encoder accuracy but you would save a bundle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mbaysing View Post

Is there an LT30 ILT motor? The closest thing I know of the is the Sonesse ST30 RS485. The LT30 is noisier than the Sonesse line, and it only comes in RF and IR varieties, as far as I'm aware. (But I'm just recently started learning about this stuff, so I could be wrong.)

The nice thing about the ST30 RS485 is you don't need buy an extra box (like the 4ILT) to connect it to and RS485 network. I'm not sure what you'd need to control it by IR, though. There are also RF and DCT versions of the ST30.

You are correct, I meant the Sonesse ST30 RS485.

I'm sure there is a way to control via IR but what I see Somfy advertising is an RS485 to z-wave module. Welcome to the world of Somfy where even the dealers don't understand the product line
post #62 of 111
Even you say this is over your budget, I feel like this is extremely cheap!! and what's more enjoyable than showing this off to everyone and be a proud DIY! Great job!!
To be honest, I feel like most of you hard-core DIY should also contract for other people as well.. I for one will not mind paying even double this knowing you guys will put your 100% and not just "do a job"....
post #63 of 111
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fight4yu View Post

Even you say this is over your budget, I feel like this is extremely cheap!! and what's more enjoyable than showing this off to everyone and be a proud DIY! Great job!!
To be honest, I feel like most of you hard-core DIY should also contract for other people as well.. I for one will not mind paying even double this knowing you guys will put your 100% and not just "do a job"....

Thanks for the feedback! For me DIY has not been so much for the $ saving but the satisfaction of a job well done.

.. from another bay area resident.
post #64 of 111
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moggie View Post
You don't need the 4ILT RS485 interface with one motor. If you want to control via RS485 (or RS232) you will need the Tap #1870127 and a RS485/usb converter for your laptop (I found one for about $35). I don't think you can directly connect the IR to the motor (although I'm guessing here) because it needs power that would normally come from the Tap or the 4ILT controller... worth talking to Somfy directly though.

Remember that if you can make do with two end limits and one intermediate stop, then you can build a much cheaper system with the non ILT motors. You will not get the encoder accuracy but you would save a bundle
You're right. I can probably get by with one intermediate stop. I do like the accuracy, torque, and low dB of the Sonesse 50 motor line though.

I did come across a Somfy motor catalog but it looks like maybe an older one. It references ILT motors - not ILT2. On page 23 (see attachment below) it shows an IR receiver connecting directly to the motor. I'm hoping the ILT2 models can do that too. I will have to call a dealer to find out for sure.

Andy

 

Page 23 from Motor_Catalog.pdf 120.6103515625k . file
post #65 of 111
Thread Starter 
Just wanted to finish up the thread with some eye candy (I know... blasphemy showing the screen in 16:9 mode).

The masking system has been working flawlessly and I'm loving my Seymour XD screen material.



Cheers!
post #66 of 111
That looks awesome!
post #67 of 111
I think it looks awesome as well...but when I look now for materials to DIY something similar, it appears that hardly anyone is selling appropriate AT fabric. The only source I found, which I missed in several recent reviews until just now, was http://www.seymourav.com/store.asp

Any hints on any other sources that still sell high-quality AV fabric for DIYers or is Seymour CenterStage XD pretty much the only option?

Edit: Fix myself since there was one source...
post #68 of 111
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by CNWDI View Post


I think it looks awesome as well...but when I look now for materials to DIY something similar, it appears that hardly anyone is selling appropriate AT fabric. The only source I found, which I missed in several recent reviews until just now, was http://www.seymourav.com/store.asp

Any hints on any other sources that still sell high-quality AV fabric for DIYers or is Seymour CenterStage XD pretty much the only option?

Edit: Fix myself since there was one source...

At one time SMX also sold to the DIY crowd. The truth is that you don't need to look any further than Seymour AV .. the product is fantastic, the price good and the support is second to none. For example, I emailed Chris on a Sunday morning regarding which way to tilt the fabric. He responded within 10 mins!
post #69 of 111
damn, you guys never cease to impress me!
post #70 of 111
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moggie View Post


Your room looks very cool. Well done

Hey Moggie, what are the things on the sides the room. They look like they are cut from ply or similar.
post #71 of 111
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by CAVX View Post

Your room looks very cool. Well done

Hey Moggie, what are the things on the sides the room. They look like they are cut from ply or similar.

Thanks! At the sides in this picture are the unfinished walnut columns. I was dry fitting them before finishing. There are a few more pics at the end of my build thread (in signature). They now have embedded LED lights but they are still not quite complete -- perhaps this weekend.

Cheers!
post #72 of 111
Very nice!
post #73 of 111
How is your Somfy based masking system working these days?
post #74 of 111
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HDGTX View Post

How is your Somfy based masking system working these days?

It's working out great -- I was just asked the same question in my build forum. All the mask positions are still exactly where I set them. The masking system is in use every time I use the theater and I've had no issues... The best feeling is I know I have a great system for 10% of the cost of a commercial screen/mask system :-). Got to love DIY.
post #75 of 111
Just thanks man, for sharing all this knowledge...
Maybe in some months I can share something too

[]s Humberto
post #76 of 111
Moggie,

Quote:


After numerous design scribbles I realized that building a curved screen complicated what really should be a fairly simple process for a flat screen

I'm thinking in using your basic ideas to my flat AT screen with masking. I'm thinkin in using sctructural aluminium to the basic frame. But, till now I dont think it is a simple process . What was your ideas to make a flat screen? ( if you remember, of course...)

[]s Humberto
post #77 of 111
Just my $0.02 worth. I did curve a flat screen a few years ago, but to so required me to reverse the frame because as I flexed the flat alloy the right way around, the frame bowed. Basically it took on the same shape as the pincushion I was wanting to correct. As a result, it also slumped leaving the fabric loose. Because I had build a baffle wall, I was not able to retention the fabric. Reversing the frame was the only solution that worked with what I had done. It was my first attempt and I didn't really have the resources at the time to make variations to the design and I ended up making a MDF frame to cover the alloy frame.

In hind sight if I was to do this again, I would make the baffle wall taller and attach the flat frame to the baffle wall on small spacers (so I could get my hands in behind the screen later on) before attaching the fabric. Because of the tension required to flex the screen, i still think that my method of drilling right through the frame and baffle wall is still required. So I would set the "height" of the screen flat. In my case, my baffle wall was concave (made of three equal sized panels) and this pre-mounting would have to be done on the centre portion first.
post #78 of 111
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moggie View Post

For example, one way would be to purchase some rectangular aluminum extrusion with two t-slots on the front face and one on the edges. You could then stretch the screen material and fasten to the inner most t-track on the front face (with t-track covers as others have done). The outermost t-track could be used for a masking system just like mine. The wooden screen border would then be fastened with right angle brackets to the t-track on the sides of the frame.

Another way would be to grommet the screen cloth and attach with rubber o-rings around the inside of a frame made from square aluminum extrusion and use simple 'u' aluminum extrusion facing up at bottom and down at top in front of the screen. It would be easier to make glides for 'u' molding than t-track. Attaching the border without much of a gap would be harder in this case...

Check out the other builds and combine ideas from each. Don't forget to document your work

I'm blind . Just saw this post. Good thing that I came up with a mix of these two ideas: grommet the screen cloth and attach with ruber o-ringt to the inner most t-slot of a rectangular aluminum extrusion with two t-slots.

And maybe I will go with 3 way masking... CIA...

Thx...

[]s Humberto
post #79 of 111
Thread Starter 
Several folks have asked me for the list of Somfy parts I ended up using. Here is the list with updated part numbers (because Somfy has made it even more confusing!):

[x2] Somfy Sonesse (ST) ILT2 504S2 Motor (110V AC) Round Head Motor #1030077 (#1030053 for star head version)
Note: you don't need the limit setting tool if you use the 4ILT interface.
Note: make sure you get the ILT2 version of the motor (see 4ILT data sheet)
Note: I used the round rather than star head because of the lower profile end allowed it to mount closer to the screen frame
Note: this can be programmed for 8 different stop positions per motor. Two of these positions can be triggered by contact closure; all can be retrieved via IR or RS485.

[x1] Somfy RS485 4ILT interface #1870130. Check out this page for more information.
[x1] Somfy IR Sensor #9154205
[x1] Somfy IR transmitter- IRT803 #1870132

Hardware for motor attachment
[x2] 2" roller blind tube #1781148 (or equivalent)
[x2] Somfy LT50 Idler End10 MM #9420800
[x2] Somfy LT50 Idler End Bracket 10mm #9410635
[x2] Somfy LT50 2" Soft Clip Drive #9206089

Tools:
Pop rivet gun to attach soft clip drive to tube

Optional:
RS232 to RS485 convertor to control 4ILT interface from a computer or A/V equipment (assuming you don't want to use IR)

Hope this helps.
post #80 of 111
What an amazing thread and an amazing room ... great read and a beautiful result.
post #81 of 111
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mandarax View Post

What an amazing thread and an amazing room ... great read and a beautiful result.

Thanks! Just got done watching "The Girl with a Dragon Tattoo". I just love being able to open up the whole screen..
post #82 of 111
Wow! That looks just fantastic! I'd really like to build a 130" wide flat screen version of this for my room!
post #83 of 111
Quote:
Originally Posted by CAVX 
Hey Moggie, what are the things on the sides the room? They look like they are cut from ply or similar.

At first glance, I thought that's where he was storing his bat'leths. wink.gif
post #84 of 111
Not nerdy enough I guess. I had to look it up:: bat'leths biggrin.gif
post #85 of 111
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GetGray View Post

Not nerdy enough I guess. I had to look it up:: bat'leths biggrin.gif

Bat'leth is now my new word for the week (I feel newly educated rolleyes.gif )

They are unusual columns but designed to maximize the walkways. Here is how they turned out when finished:

400
post #86 of 111
Moggie

I'm not sure if I missed this earlier in the thread or not, but how did you determince the 42' curve radius for your screen to use with your projector/lens setup? Is there a calculator or spreadsheet available to determine the radius?
post #87 of 111
Quote:
Originally Posted by phisch View Post

Moggie
I'm not sure if I missed this earlier in the thread or not, but how did you determince the 42' curve radius for your screen to use with your projector/lens setup? Is there a calculator or spreadsheet available to determine the radius?
Email me your specifics (throw distance, screen height) and I'll calculate it for you.

Scott
aut
techht
dut
com
post #88 of 111
Quote:
Originally Posted by GetGray View Post

Email me your specifics (throw distance, screen height) and I'll calculate it for you.
Scott
aut
techht
dut
com

Thanks Scott, will do.
post #89 of 111
Moggie, what size tubes did you use for the frame? I`m planning doing a 110" wide curved steel frame, and thought of using 25mm square cross section tubes, 2mm wall thickness. I also in doubt if really needing the two supports? Do you think the frame would sag without them? BTW, amazing room and screen you have!
post #90 of 111
Thread Starter 
Thanks Gunnar.

I believe the steel tubes were 1.5" square with 3/32" walls, so very close to what you are thinking. The cross support are smaller 1" square thin wall. Depending on how you mount the frame you may or may not need the cross supports. Even my heavy duty frame had a little flex to it. The other thing to think about is keeping the frame square. The cross supports help achieve this although another option would be to weld some triangular supports in the corners. At 110" wide (mine was 130") I'd be tempted to skip the cross supports and beef up the corners. Are you welding this up yourself? You can always add the cross supports as an afterthought.

Good luck.
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