DIY Curved AT screen with Somfy based automated masking - Page 3

You don't need the 4ILT RS485 interface with one motor. If you want to control via RS485 (or RS232) you will need the Tap #1870127 and a RS485/usb converter for your laptop (I found one for about $35). I don't think you can directly connect the IR to the motor (although I'm guessing here) because it needs power that would normally come from the Tap or the 4ILT controller... worth talking to Somfy directly though.

Remember that if you can make do with two end limits and one intermediate stop, then you can build a much cheaper system with the non ILT motors. You will not get the encoder accuracy but you would save a bundle.


You are correct, I meant the Sonesse ST30 RS485.

I'm sure there is a way to control via IR but what I see Somfy advertising is an RS485 to z-wave module. Welcome to the world of Somfy where even the dealers don't understand the product line

Thanks for the feedback! For me DIY has not been so much for the $ saving but the satisfaction of a job well done.

.. from another bay area resident.

Just wanted to finish up the thread with some eye candy (I know... blasphemy showing the screen in 16:9 mode).

The masking system has been working flawlessly and I'm loving my Seymour XD screen material.



Cheers!

At one time SMX also sold to the DIY crowd. The truth is that you don't need to look any further than Seymour AV .. the product is fantastic, the price good and the support is second to none. For example, I emailed Chris on a Sunday morning regarding which way to tilt the fabric. He responded within 10 mins!

Thanks! At the sides in this picture are the unfinished walnut columns. I was dry fitting them before finishing. There are a few more pics at the end of my build thread (in signature). They now have embedded LED lights but they are still not quite complete -- perhaps this weekend.

Cheers!

It's working out great -- I was just asked the same question in my build forum. All the mask positions are still exactly where I set them. The masking system is in use every time I use the theater and I've had no issues... The best feeling is I know I have a great system for 10% of the cost of a commercial screen/mask system :-). Got to love DIY.

Several folks have asked me for the list of Somfy parts I ended up using. Here is the list with updated part numbers (because Somfy has made it even more confusing!):

[x2] Somfy Sonesse (ST) ILT2 504S2 Motor (110V AC) Round Head Motor #1030077 (#1030053 for star head version)
Note: you don't need the limit setting tool if you use the 4ILT interface.
Note: make sure you get the ILT2 version of the motor (see 4ILT data sheet)
Note: I used the round rather than star head because of the lower profile end allowed it to mount closer to the screen frame
Note: this can be programmed for 8 different stop positions per motor. Two of these positions can be triggered by contact closure; all can be retrieved via IR or RS485.

[x1] Somfy RS485 4ILT interface #1870130. Check out this page for more information.
[x1] Somfy IR Sensor #9154205
[x1] Somfy IR transmitter- IRT803 #1870132

Hardware for motor attachment
[x2] 2" roller blind tube #1781148 (or equivalent)
[x2] Somfy LT50 Idler End10 MM #9420800
[x2] Somfy LT50 Idler End Bracket 10mm #9410635
[x2] Somfy LT50 2" Soft Clip Drive #9206089

Tools:
Pop rivet gun to attach soft clip drive to tube

Optional:
RS232 to RS485 convertor to control 4ILT interface from a computer or A/V equipment (assuming you don't want to use IR)

Hope this helps.

Thanks! Just got done watching "The Girl with a Dragon Tattoo". I just love being able to open up the whole screen..

Bat'leth is now my new word for the week (I feel newly educated )

They are unusual columns but designed to maximize the walkways. Here is how they turned out when finished:

Thanks Gunnar.

I believe the steel tubes were 1.5" square with 3/32" walls, so very close to what you are thinking. The cross support are smaller 1" square thin wall. Depending on how you mount the frame you may or may not need the cross supports. Even my heavy duty frame had a little flex to it. The other thing to think about is keeping the frame square. The cross supports help achieve this although another option would be to weld some triangular supports in the corners. At 110" wide (mine was 130") I'd be tempted to skip the cross supports and beef up the corners. Are you welding this up yourself? You can always add the cross supports as an afterthought.

Good luck.