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Official JVC RS40/X3 Owners Thread - Page 60

post #1771 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

Someone who is obsessively loyal to and supportive of a certain manufacaturer, brand or technology (i.e. Apple fanboys, Sony Fanboys, HDDVD fan boys, and now introducing 3D fanboys )

You meticulously forgot the JVC fanboys
post #1772 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

I understand where you are coming from, but light conditions and the type of fabric DIRECTLY affect the picture of the RS40,

Light conditions affect every projector that is talked about in these forums, it is not unique to the RS40. Light conditions is part of your environment, so like I said, there is no best screen fabric for a projector, only best for environment and user preference.
post #1773 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by millerwill View Post

This ~ 900 lumens (with new lamp, shortest throw, iris at 0, high lamp mode) at D65 is precisely the same as the RS20/25/35. I don't see how the RS40/50 are going to be in brighter for 2d at D65. ?

Where are you getting your info from? Ekkerhart measured the RS25 at D65 under the same conditions at 710 lumens, a big difference from what he measured the RS40. You have to compare apples to apples, i.e. your comparing someone elses lumen measurements for the "RS20/25/35" to Ekkerhart's measurements of the RS40. Every reviewer has a different method, environment, and equipment for measurements. For example, if you were to compare Tom Norton's contrast measurements of the RS25 to Ekkerharts measurements of the same projector, you would think Ekkerhart was measuring a CRT on accident as TJN's contrast measurements are always a lot lower across the board than most reviewers.
post #1774 of 9662
for those concerned information is going to be missed or lost, it's should be archived in the first page. Once these start arriving in quantity, this thread is going to much more busy than it already is.

I was considering a separate calibration thread. I think I am seeing black crush with the default settings and have posted a number of times, but no one yet seems to be tinkering yet with the custom gamma modes.

if anyone is interested in discussing calibration or think it needs a separate, dedicate thread, post your thoughts.
post #1775 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

I think I am seeing black crush with the default settings and have posted a number of times, but no one yet seems to be tinkering yet with the custom gamma modes.

I and others observed this on the X7 demo in the UK when it was using the THX mode. I also suffered this with my HD350 in the begining. I feel that the best solution is to use the custom gamma (or as in my case an external VideoEQ) to fine tune the very low end. It always seems hard to be able to get 16 IRE as black as possible, but still 'see' the 17 IRE bar. I have been able to achieve this now, but only using the finer controls of the VideoEQ: I've become used to seeing the shadow detail, so I noticed the lack of it on the demo X7. I find it seems to make the blacks seem worse in some ways as there is no detail, then it seems more obvious to my eyes that the screen isn't pure black.

Perhaps this new menu item for dark adjustment will help here? I gather it brings up an automatic test pattern, but I would want to use it with the AVS HD709 flashing bars pattern and just make small adjustments to see if it's possible to get 17 just visible but also ensure that 16 is as black as it will go. Some previous model owners used a custom gamma that lowered towards 2.2 at the low IRE end and 2.3 once above 20-30IRE for similar reasons.

Note that even the cheap i1LT (or i1D2) is still good for gamma readings: I recently rented a more accurate i1Pro for my CMS work and compared it to my own i1LT. The greyscale readings were off by a delta E of 7 but the gamma measured the same apart from the very low end where the i1LT actually measured better as the i1Pro doesn't work so well at very low light levels. FWIW I use Chromapure as well because it has a handy gamma measurement module that allows me to make adjustments and measure them in real time unlike HFCR.
post #1776 of 9662
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by millerwill View Post

This ~ 900 lumens (with new lamp, shortest throw, iris at 0, high lamp mode) at D65 is precisely the same as the RS20/25/35. I don't see how the RS40/50 are going to be in brighter for 2d at D65. ?

Not all of us will actually calibrate their new RS40, I never did calibrate my RS20. Not to mention that Ekki's measurement of the RS20 two years back was at 710 lumens at D65. We're talking almost almost 28% increase, if that is not an improvement, not sure what would be.
post #1777 of 9662
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by omicronian View Post

You meticulously forgot the JVC fanboys

I don't know what you're talking about, never HEARD of such a thing

Plus JVC Fanboys in a JVC owner's thread is kind of an oxymoron, right? haha!
post #1778 of 9662
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikenificent1 View Post

Where are you getting your info from? Ekkerhart measured the RS25 at D65 under the same conditions at 710 lumens, a big difference from what he measured the RS40. You have to compare apples to apples, i.e. your comparing someone elses lumen measurements for the "RS20/25/35" to Ekkerhart's measurements of the RS40. Every reviewer has a different method, environment, and equipment for measurements. For example, if you were to compare Tom Norton's contrast measurements of the RS25 to Ekkerharts measurements of the same projector, you would think Ekkerhart was measuring a CRT on accident as TJN's contrast measurements are always a lot lower across the board than most reviewers.

Thanks for mentioning this Mike, I could swear Ekki's measurements for the RS20 two years ago where noticeably lower than the RS40.
post #1779 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cine4Home View Post

Short Throw...

Regards,

Ekkehart

And high lamp? So you think mid throw with normal lamp would be about 650?
post #1780 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

The 1080p/24 message no longer appears during 3D playback from DirecTV throughout the RS40. That happened only when i played back 3D content that was recorded to the DVR before the RS40 and AVR4311 were in the 3D loop so to speak.

The only DirecTV 3D i am unable to play is ESPN 3D and i am getting the 720p/3D not playable or supported error within DirecTV. Chris (JVC) snapped a photo of the error while it was on the screen and he said tha whe will report the issue to the office (whether it's Denver, NJ, Cyprus CA, or Japan i am not sure.) but he will report it.

Sam - do you have another source to test side by side 3D content besides 3D? I would like to know if this is an issue specific to using DirecTv (whether the JVC or STB's fault) or not. For instance, do you think I would have this issue with ESPN3D on Comcast?
post #1781 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan P. View Post

What's the verdict on whether the rs40 needs an external CMS? Are most people who own one using a Lumagen or some other product? I'm trying to figure out how important an external CMS is with the rs40.

See this: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1295872
post #1782 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post
I think I am seeing black crush with the default settings and have posted a number of times, but no one yet seems to be tinkering yet with the custom gamma modes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

I and others observed this on the X7 demo in the UK when it was using the THX mode. I also suffered this with my HD350 in the begining.

Was this the case after doing what seemed like a satisfactory black level adjustment the "normal" way, i.e. a setup disk?
post #1783 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cine4Home View Post

The exact average of the 4 calibrated X3 was:

870 Lumen in 2D / D65

What were the individual measurements?

I'm curious if unit-to-unit variance is improved.
post #1784 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikenificent1 View Post

Where are you getting your info from? Ekkerhart measured the RS25 at D65 under the same conditions at 710 lumens, a big difference from what he measured the RS40. You have to compare apples to apples, i.e. your comparing someone elses lumen measurements for the "RS20/25/35" to Ekkerhart's measurements of the RS40. Every reviewer has a different method, environment, and equipment for measurements. For example, if you were to compare Tom Norton's contrast measurements of the RS25 to Ekkerharts measurements of the same projector, you would think Ekkerhart was measuring a CRT on accident as TJN's contrast measurements are always a lot lower across the board than most reviewers.

Info from Greg Rodgers' reviews: 883 lumens for the RS20, 872 for the RS35, at the conditions I noted above. Of course he hasn't yet reviewed the RS40/50, but I'm looking forward to it.
post #1785 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post

Someone who is obsessively loyal to and supportive of a certain manufacaturer, brand or technology (i.e. Apple fanboys, Sony Fanboys, HDDVD fan boys, and now introducing 3D fanboys )

Thank you for that information. Now I know.
post #1786 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by madshi View Post
Just received my RS40/X3 this morning (Germany). My first impressions:

(1) Sharpness is comparable to my previous HD350. I don't see any obvious improvement.
(2) Vertical convergence is near perfect, but red is off half a pixel horizontally, which obviously impacts sharpness.
(3) Contrast appears slightly better, but this is just a subjective impression. No hard fact / data.
(4) A (dithered) grayscale is pretty much smooth now, while I saw banding with the HD350. This is a definite improvement!
(5) In the grayscale I see some noise in some grayscale areas, but I only see it up close, not from seating position. I'm pretty sure it's some kind of dithering noise.
(6) I had one situation where there was a solid gray area. With my nose pressed to the screen, I saw no noise. However, whenever I moved one step back or forth, I saw a noise pattern while I was moving. When I stopped moving, the noise was gone again. Very weird. The noise pattern appeared to be "diagonal" in some way. Meaning it wasn't just random noise, it had some kind of geometrical pattern to it.
(7) Not sure about 3D yet. Haven't been able to properly do 3D with my HTPC yet, so all I could test was a side-by-side TV station here in Germany. What I don't like is that the RS40 only seems to support side-by-side for 1080i50 and 1080i60 signals, but not for 1080p24! That's a *big* disadvantage for HTPC users, IMHO.
(8) Black frame insertion seems to work, but very bright areas flicker a bit. Not sure if I can live with that. I wish they would do black frame insertion only for those parts of the frame which is moving. That should get rid of most of the flickering, but nobody seems to have had this idea yet (besides me).
(9) Motion interpolation appears to work just fine for 1080p24 content on a quick check. Need to test with some difficult material to check whether there are still artifacts.
I have the RS10 and am curious how the ANSI contrast looks on the RS40 compared to HD350?
post #1787 of 9662
I received my OPPO 93 this afternoon so I can finally jump on the 3D bandwagon... I had time to watch 1 movie only so I picked a short one: IMAX Dinosaurs Alive.

The setup:
Batcave
Stewart 130 G3 128" diagonal
16.5 throw with an extreme amount of H-Lens Shift.
Seating at around 13 feet
XPAND 103
3D Mode with no other tweaking.

The results:

WOW! Plenty bright for me. Very little ghosting. I remember 2 or 3 scenes with some but nothing to get too disctracted. At least not for long. I can't believe how good the image looks even with all the 3D...

There is one thing though. Every once in a while in the movie there are some scenes that kinda make me dizzy, for lack of better explaination. It's weird it's like the image is focussed but your brain just says "take it easy", but not in a good way. I had to take the glasses off. I rewinded a few of those scenes and the "effect" was the same. I will probably watch it again tonight because when my 6 year old son gets home and finds out little sister got dibbs on 3D he will not be happy! I will pay attention to see if it happens again in the same scenes and also gage his reaction to see if its just me.

Other than that its been a wonderful experience and we have Despicable Me lined up this Friday for the whole family. Can't wait.

This RS-40, it is really something else...
post #1788 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post
Todd,
Let me know when you get through watching your copy of Avatar3D on your Oppo93, i wanna know if you had any issues with the playback freezing up like my copy. Thanks

Will definitely let you know...............should have it next week at some point.

Definitely going to get Open Season after last night........I was not planning on getting that one, but after what I witnessed it is a MUST HAVE!
post #1789 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by damnsam77 View Post
Absolutely NOT! 1080P/24 is the BEST way to watch films via bluray. Do not change anything on your Oppo93 settings, play everything as is. You may have to go and fix your screen size within the video menu to match your screen's diagonal size at 16:9. but thats about it.

I don't know about your screen but I would be surprised if it retains any noticeable polarization, most screens out there seem to not have this advantage. But I could be wrong on your screen.

But in the case your screen fabric, like most others, does not retain or polarize light, then the Xpand x103s will work just fine for you, you can buy 3 of them of the price of two JVCs, just trying to save you a buck or two here...
Sam, you have 1080p/24 turned on in the Oppo? I have just been using "source direct" which should produce the same results since it just sends the disc info untouched to the 40 which is reporting a 24p signal when appropriate.......have you heard otherwise?
post #1790 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by zbroke View Post
I received my OPPO 93 this afternoon so I can finally jump on the 3D bandwagon... I had time to watch 1 movie only so I picked a short one: IMAX Dinosaurs Alive.

The setup:
Batcave
Stewart 130 G3 128" diagonal
16.5 throw with an extreme amount of H-Lens Shift.
Seating at around 13 feet
XPAND 103
3D Mode with no other tweaking.

The results:

WOW! Plenty bright for me. Very little ghosting. I remember 2 or 3 scenes with some but nothing to get too disctracted. At least not for long. I can't believe how good the image looks even with all the 3D...

There is one thing though. Every once in a while in the movie there are some scenes that kinda make me dizzy, for lack of better explaination. It's weird it's like the image is focussed but your brain just says "take it easy", but not in a good way. I had to take the glasses off. I rewinded a few of those scenes and the "effect" was the same. I will probably watch it again tonight because when my 6 year old son gets home and finds out little sister got dibbs on 3D he will not be happy! I will pay attention to see if it happens again in the same scenes and also gage his reaction to see if its just me.

Other than that its been a wonderful experience and we have Despicable Me lined up this Friday for the whole family. Can't wait.

This RS-40, it is really something else...
Those scenes in Dinosaurs Alive will always be a problem for viewers. People might think it's their eyes, but it's really because there's too much disparity in the distance between left and right eye views. Look with the glasses off. You'll see that some shots (the ones that don't look quite right) force your eyes to "cross" much more than the shots around them. Your eyes adjust to the wide divergence, then in the next shot the divergence is small - back and forth. It's ugly, and I'm sure it will give some people headaches.
post #1791 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joseph Clark View Post
It's ugly, and I'm sure it will give some people headaches.
Maybe the next time I'm flying I'll grab a couple of barf bags to have on hand just in case viewers feel the need to "release" while viewing 3D.
post #1792 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joseph Clark View Post
Those scenes in Dinosaurs Alive will always be a problem for viewers. People might think it's their eyes, but it's really because there's too much disparity in the distance between left and right eye views. Look with the glasses off. You'll see that some shots (the ones that don't look quite right) force your eyes to "cross" much more than the shots around them. Your eyes adjust to the wide divergence, then in the next shot the divergence is small - back and forth. It's ugly, and I'm sure it will give some people headaches.
Well I'm very happy that it is the content and not the hardware. I felt something was "off" on those scenes but didn't know what. Now I know.
post #1793 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by promike View Post
My Oppo 93 displays a blue screen with sound only. PS3 plays perfectly but my Samsung glasses do not work. I thought all of the 3D glasses were compatable. I wasn't crazy about the Expands or JVCs due to battery replacement. The Samsung's I have are rechargable.
You should have done you research a little better on the 3D glasses. See the Official 3D Video FAQ in the 3D area here on AVS Forum. Generally 3D shutter glass are made to only work with that manufacturer's brand of 3DTVs. There are a few exceptions such as the Samsung and Mitsubishi glasses working with either of these manufacturers 3DTVs. The brand specific limitations is why there is a market for universal 3D glasses from independent manufacturers, such as Xpand. As for the blue screen when you connect your Oppo. Perhaps a little more information would help us see if we can figure out what is going on. I assume you are using the JVC RS40 projector with your Oppo. Do you have it connected directly via HDMI to the projector or is it connected through an AVR? If so what brand and model of AVR and does it have HDMI 1.4 inputs. Also what brand/model of HDMI cable(s) are you using and how long is it?
post #1794 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post
for those concerned information is going to be missed or lost, it's should be archived in the first page. Once these start arriving in quantity, this thread is going to much more busy than it already is.

I was considering a separate calibration thread. I think I am seeing black crush with the default settings and have posted a number of times, but no one yet seems to be tinkering yet with the custom gamma modes.

if anyone is interested in discussing calibration or think it needs a separate, dedicate thread, post your thoughts.

I also have noticed some black crush during 2 films, but just figured it was a user (me) issue as far as settings (and would bet it is). I would love more calibration discussion OR a seperate thread for it (either one) since I need all the help I can get in this area I have calibrated contrast/brightness for 2d with my AVS disc, but that is the extent of what I know to do. I would love to hear peoples thoughts on which of the preset gamma options is best (maybe which one is best depends on the type of material we are watching?) and so on and so on...........
post #1795 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by kutlow View Post
Sam I also have the oppo93. Should I turn 1080P/24 off ? Also I have not got the glasses yet and think im going t go the xpand route now. Can someone please look at the chart and tell me if the da-lite cinima vision 1.3 gain screen will work with the xpand glasses? Im ready to put an order in and need this answered and I dont understand the chart. I appreciatethe help guys.
Much to the chagrin of the thread purists,

I'm not adding any value-added knowledge here, except to point you to the nice chart that Ron Jones posted (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post19549756).

According to this chart, the cinema vision 1.3 gain screen rates as "significant polarization observed – probably more than 75%". This means that xpands are NOT the best choice for use with this screen as those glasses will remove the horizontally polarized light (meaning you will see a much dimmer picture). Conversely, the JVC glasses will let the polarized light through, so the display will appear brighter to your eye.

Sam's screen is more or less neutral/minimal polarization, so as he reports in his case the JVC glasses are only nominally brighter than the Xpands and not worth spending the extra money. However as you go up the DaLite polarization ladder you will see more brightness out of the JVC glasses vs less brightness (dimmer) out of the Xpands. According to Mike Haflich, the Stewart 130 (I believe another angular type with 1.3 gain) has 0 polarization, so with that screen you could use either type of glasses which would perform equally sub optimal (due to loss of polarized light from the screen). However, Sam indicated his experience is great with this latter setup, so there you go.

It's so simple, even I get it and I just found out about the polarization monkey wrench yesterday.

Oh, one more thing... can we collapse all the threads on this forum into just one big thread???


Follow Ron in his new threads down the yellow brick road into the polarized 3D world.
post #1796 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolplazma View Post
Much to the chagrin of the thread purists,

I'm not adding any value-added knowledge here, except to point you to the nice chart that Ron Jones posted (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post19549756).

According to this chart, the cinima vision 1.3 gain screen rates as "significant polarization observed - probably more than 75%". This means that xpands are NOT the best choice for use with this screen as those glasses will remove the polarized light (meaning you will see a much dimmer picture). Conversely, the JVC glasses will let the polarized light through, so the display will appear brighter to your eye.

It's so simple, even I get it.

Oh, one more thing... can we collapse all the threads on this forum into just one big thread???
One point of clarity I can't find. Will the screens that have high polarization result in a brighter perceived picture when coupled with the jvc glasses as compared to a screen that does not have significant polarization and is paired with either jvc or the Xpand glasses.
Thanks,
Frank
post #1797 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Jones View Post
You should have done you research a little better on the 3D glasses. See the Official 3D Video FAQ in the 3D area here on AVS Forum. Generally 3D shutter glass are made to only work with that manufacturer's brand of 3DTVs. There are a few exceptions such as the Samsung and Mitsubishi glasses working with either of these manufacturers 3DTVs. The brand specific limitations is why there is a market for universal 3D glasses from independent manufacturers, such as Xpand. As for the blue screen when you connect your Oppo. Perhaps a little more information would help us see if we can figure out what is going on. I assume you are using the JVC RS40 projector with your Oppo. Do you have it connected directly via HDMI to the projector or is it connected through an AVR? If so what brand and model of AVR and does it have HDMI 1.4 inputs. Also what brand/model of HDMI cable(s) are you using and how long is it?
I guess I will be ordering the Expands.
The Oppo runs through a Onkyo prsc5508 and then through a new Belkin 1.4 hdmi cable. The PS3 is hooked up the same way and plays fine. The Oppo seems to stall when the X3 is in 3D mode. Nothing but a blue screen. Tried hdmi 2 with same result. I have a Samsung plasma that I use the glasses on so all is not lost. Just sorry that I have to buy 2 more pair.
post #1798 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toe View Post
I also have noticed some black crush during 2 films, but just figured it was a user (me) issue as far as settings (and would bet it is). I would love more calibration discussion OR a seperate thread for it (either one) since I need all the help I can get in this area I have calibrated contrast/brightness for 2d with my AVS disc, but that is the extent of what I know to do. I would love to hear peoples thoughts on which of the preset gamma options is best (maybe which one is best depends on the type of material we are watching?) and so on and so on...........
at first I thought it was my HTPC so I ran a few 3D BD's through my Samsung 7900 and they look identical to the HTPC. I noticed it in some of the dark scenes in Open Season and Street Dance 3D. Some shadow detail isn't there and it should be.

I started playing around with the custom gamma curve last night, there is a grid with multiple points that can be adjusted. I am hoping folks start fiddling with these beyond thinking the picture quality looks great out of the box. I think there is a lot more left in the projector with the right calibration.

If I find something that makes a difference i'll let you know.
post #1799 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by zbroke View Post
Well I'm very happy that it is the content and not the hardware. I felt something was "off" on those scenes but didn't know what. Now I know.
I noticed some similar issues with Imax: Space Shuttle. It's still one of my favorites, though. It makes me feel like I'm there. The problem with my Samsung 3D plasma is its size. At 63", it's just too small to completely pull me in as the Imax did when I saw it in 3D at the Smithsonian. That's the feeling I expect the JVC will provide.
post #1800 of 9662
Quote:
Originally Posted by fmarasco View Post
One point of clarity I can't find. Will the screens that have high polarization result in a brighter perceived picture when coupled with the jvc glasses as compared to a screen that does not have significant polarization and is paired with either jvc or the Xpand glasses.
Thanks,
Frank
When using the JVC glasses, whose polarization matches that of the JVC projectors, if you compare two screens with the same gain, the one that maintains significant polarization will appear brigher than one that maintains no polarization. When using the Xpand glasses, which have the opposite polarization to the JVC projectors, the more polarization the screen retains the dimmer the image will be (i.e., just the opposite of when using the JVC glasses with the JVC projectors).

Bottom line if you are using a screen that maintains any significant amount of polarization then use the JVC glasses. Only consider the Xpand glasses when using a screen that maintains no, or only minimal, polarization.
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